Frédéric Malle
Une Fleur de Cassie
(2003)
Dominique Ropion
Top note: Mimosa Absolute, Rose Absolute
Middle note: Acacia Flower, Jasmine Absolute, Carnation
Base note: Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood
Flowery, spicy, fruity, aldehydic, musky, woody; this scent is remarkable for its brilliant composition, its juxtaposition of notes that work together beyond expectation. This is the genius of the true nose, to make a scent that works in balance despite odd combinations by gauging exact proportions to achieve a novel effect. Ropion here succeeds in spades, making a rich floral-woody-oriental with subtle marriages of fruit and spice, using apricot to enhance the florals, and clove to reflect the carnation, and then tying it all together with a classic and straightforward woody oriental base note. This is an extraordinarily rich floral, shimmering and complex, with carefully arranged modulations to carry one through the seemingly seamless development in precise order. It's one of the best of an already excellent set in the Éditions de Parfums series.