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Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

post #1 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:06pm
Thread Starter 
Yup, two recommendation request threads in one day - you can tell I'm about to place an order at TPC, can't you?

I'm looking for rich, spicy, oriental takes on rose, with caveat of them being not too sweet and not too gourmand.

Roses I've tried and loved:

Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste la Rose - one of my favorite soliflores
Eau d'Italie's Paestum Rose - the one that inspired my current quest

Roses I've tried and am neutral on:

The Different Company Rose Poivree - nice, but too fruity on me; papaya comes to mind strongly for some reason
CB I Hate Perfume's Tea/Rose - smells wonderful; lasts five seconds
Czech & Speake's #88 - sickly heavy grape-crush rose with a nice sandalwood note
Comme des Garcons' Series Red: Rose - a nice fruity rose that smells nice at first then turns badly synthetic on my skin
Domenico Caraceni - I realize this has been sainted lately, and it's alright, but not my thing
Dyptique's Opone - more saffron than rose, but good as a saffron fragrance

Roses I did not like:

Montale's Aoud Roses Petals - monochromatic rose/oud is not my thing
ELDO's Rossy di Palma - gag no thanks

Non-rose fragrances with a rose note I love:

Comme des Garcons Parfum - I've become totally infatuated with this recently
Ava Luxe's Rasa - an extreme musk fragrance made wearable by a touch of rose

I should state than I'm not looking for a Montale, both due to price and not being in an oud-mood lately ( not that I'll rule out something with an oud note out ).

Notes that I like paired with rose: cinnamon, cardamom, clove, carnation, myrrh, cedar, leather, incense, sandalwood

Nothing too heavy on vanilla or lavender, please.

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post #2 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:08pm
Marketed towards women but you ought to try Parfums de Rosine Pouissere de Rose. It fits your requirements to a T.
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post #3 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:11pm
Amouage, Lyric is actually marketed as a "rose oriental" however, as a lover of all thing Amouage, it is very feminine. Definately try this one before buying.
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post #4 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:14pm
Chanel Coco is a rose oriental--rich, spicy, soft, but also extremely strong in the 80's style. My preferred concentration is the EDP, but a man might prefer the EDT.
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post #5 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asha View Post

Chanel Coco is a rose oriental--rich, spicy, soft, but also extremely strong in the 80's style. My preferred concentration is the EDP, but a man might prefer the EDT.

Definately a favorite of mine on the ladies, but may be a bit too feminine on a man though?
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post #6 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:29pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your suggestions!

As for the masculine/feminine divide, I have no problem wearing female fragrances a long as they're not too sweet. For those of you who know it, take Sa Majeste as your marker - nothing much sweeter than that.
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post #7 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:29pm
Diptyques Le Eau dan Ombrie (something to that effect)
TDC Rose Poivree

TNMA
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post #8 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:35pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenmarcher View Post

Diptyques Le Eau dan Ombrie (something to that effect)
TDC Rose Poivree

TNMA

Oh! I'd forgotten I'd tried Rose Poivree. I'll add it to the list. I'll have to try the Dyptique - I liked their Opone.
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post #9 of 38
12/9/08 at 10:51pm
Lagerfeld KL Homme
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post #10 of 38
12/9/08 at 11:03pm
1881/Cerruti

"Floriental" with a touch of rose in the middle, though not a rose-heavy scent.
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post #11 of 38
12/9/08 at 11:27pm
Hammam Bouquet for sure.

Nahema (Guerlain), Musk (Villoresi), Brûlure de Rose (PG), Sa Majesté la Rose (Lutens) and the Rosine range are worth exploring as well.
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post #12 of 38
12/9/08 at 11:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post

Thanks for your suggestions!

As for the masculine/feminine divide, I have no problem wearing female fragrances a long as they're not too sweet. For those of you who know it, take Sa Majeste as your marker - nothing much sweeter than that.

In that case, give Lyric and Coco madamioselle a try. Enjoy!
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post #13 of 38
12/10/08 at 12:08am
I second Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet for a sightly spiced rose with a woody base.
L'Ombre dans l'eau is a fav of mines among the diptyques and a good damascena rose scent too; it's not an oriental though, not spicy at all, but a very green wet damascena with blackcurrant fruity hints. You might give to Tom Ford White Patchouli a try: it has a very pleasant rose heart in the middle. Another suggestion is L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de roses, a bend of rose and plum hints on a earthy patchouli base, or you could try the Dior feminine rip-off of this, midnight poison, where they muted a bit the plum and amplified the rose-patchouli accord.
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post #14 of 38
12/10/08 at 12:58am
I know it's a ladies one but Midnight Poison is an interesting rose, it's not too sweet and certainly isn't a gourmand.
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post #15 of 38
12/10/08 at 1:14am
Incense Rosé and Rose Chyprée (not yet in production, but samples are available) by Andy Tauer!!!
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post #16 of 38
12/10/08 at 2:06am
If you don't care much about gender labeling, you could also give 'L'inspiratrice' by Divine a try. It's a rose/patchouli.
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post #17 of 38
12/10/08 at 4:18am
I can't think of a really masculine rose oriental. Parfum Sacre is quite sweet up front but settles down to a very beautiful and wearable spice/incense/floral accord with a prominent rose note. But it's really neither a masculine nor exactly a rose fragrance. I'd be interested to hear anyone else's take on how prominent the rose is.
Come to think of it, most of my thinking about genres of fragrance in this genre-bending era has been about chypres and fougeres. Anybody willing to give a bit of a list of good masculine orientals? I suppose you could just list half the Serge Lutens catalogue, but beyond that?
I feel like there are a number of 60's-80's patch-heavy floral orientals that a man could wear with pleasure but I haven't done enough sniffing since the last time I got shamed away from the women's counter at Macy's and slunk back down to suffer in the basement purgatory of insipid masculines.
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post #18 of 38
12/10/08 at 4:33am
Washington Tremlett Black Tie
Creed Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare
Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet & Castile
Crown Maréchale Original, if you can find it.

and not to forget: AdP Colonia
If you like Paestum, you should also try Amouage Jubilation XXV
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post #19 of 38
12/10/08 at 4:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

Come to think of it, most of my thinking about genres of fragrance in this genre-bending era has been about chypres and fougeres. Anybody willing to give a bit of a list of good masculine orientals? I suppose you could just list half the Serge Lutens catalogue, but beyond that?

I'm thinking a lot of Montale would count, as would a lot of men's fragrances that focus on vetiver and sandalwood. Tauer's L'Air strikes me as a good example of a "masculine" oriental.

I think the problem is defining oriental - I generally think of orientals as some combination of spicy, resinous, balsamic or ambery notes, usually rich and somewhat heavy, sometimes incensey or leathery but not green, aquatic, citrusy or very floral. Others definitons may vary, of course.
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post #20 of 38
12/10/08 at 4:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post

I'm thinking a lot of Montale would count, as would a lot of men's fragrances that focus on vetiver and sandalwood. Tauer's L'Air strikes me as a good example of a "masculine" oriental.

I think the problem is defining oriental - I generally think of orientals as some combination of spicy, resinous, balsamic or ambery notes, usually rich and somewhat heavy, sometimes incensey or leathery but not green, aquatic, citrusy or very floral. Others definitons may vary, of course.

have you tried KL Homme by Lagerfeld...? if you appreciat L'Air, then im sure you will find what you are lookign for in KL Homme. It's one of the most satisfying scents i have in my wardrobe. i use it like a miser as it's kinda hard to find now (not impossible)
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post #21 of 38
12/10/08 at 5:40am
Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine seems to fit your description : rich, oriental and spicy. It is very long lasting too.
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post #22 of 38
12/10/08 at 5:59am
Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood is another fantastic Rose, it's quite spicy as well with notes such as Leather, Cardomman, Coriander and Green Tea.
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post #23 of 38
12/10/08 at 8:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asha View Post

Chanel Coco is a rose oriental--rich, spicy, soft, but also extremely strong in the 80's style. My preferred concentration is the EDP, but a man might prefer the EDT.

Coco is a very rich, baroque-style oriental which I like to wear and do not consider too feminine. I use the EDP concentration also. Some men prefer the pure parfum.
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post #24 of 38
12/10/08 at 9:10am
Well I've tried most of the rose scents on your lists and many others as rose is one of my favorite notes in men's fragrance. The obvious ommission to the list and my personal favorite of the entire group is Le Labo Rose 31. It is an addictive mix of roses with vetiver, woods, patchouli and oud among its 31 ingredients.

I also suggest Washington Tremlett's Black Tie (as per the Good Lifes suggestion) - a beautiful geranium rose that leans towards the conservative side as far as an oriental blend goes, but is wonderful.

Of course Montale is bursting with rose scents that might fill the bill. Of these Black Aoud and Golden Aoud are my favorite roses.
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post #25 of 38
12/10/08 at 9:45am
Noir de Noir by Tom Ford
Kelly Caleche by Hermes
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post #26 of 38
12/10/08 at 10:09am
Rose 31 definately deserves a try, so does Lyric Man by Amouage
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post #27 of 38
12/10/08 at 10:49am
Most of the great ones have already been mentioned. I would like to add:

Aroma M Geisha Nobara-Cha: was just trying a sample of this the other day. From a little known house, N-Cha is composed of solid ingredients...it smells like fresh roses with a woody-ambery base. Nice.

Creed Fleur de Bulgarie (not the private collection): super high-quality bulgarian rose oil mixed with a luscious base of musk and ambergris. Musky gothic rose.
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post #28 of 38
12/10/08 at 11:26am
Frederice Malle's Une Rose - although it may not be 'oriental', is a definite take on quality rose material that I believe men should be able to pull off. "treating rose gentle pays dividends...." - from Luca Turin's review of UR in Perfumes: The Guide. I enjoyed my recent wearing of it the other day.
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post #29 of 38
12/10/08 at 11:31am
There's a huge dry rose note in the latter half of MPG's Secret Melange. Before the rose emerges it is a melange (sorry, had to ) of spices, predominantly clove.
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post #30 of 38
12/10/08 at 11:54am
my personal favourite rose would be tdc's rose poivree, but i'll second (our fourth, actually!) hammam bouquet by penhaligons
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post #31 of 38
12/10/08 at 5:12pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all your suggestions! Anyone know where I can get samples of Hammam Bouquet and MPG's Secret Melange?

Also, any thoughts on Serge Lutens' Rose De Nuit? I've been looking at some reviews and it sounds like it might be up my alley.
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post #32 of 38
12/10/08 at 7:05pm
Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange. Rose pushed to the edge on a base of patchouli and incense.
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post #33 of 38
12/10/08 at 7:06pm
Have you tried Ormonde Jayne's TA'IF? It's exotic and beautiful. Though it's sold as a woman's fragrance, I don't see why a man couldn't wear it!
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post #34 of 38
12/10/08 at 7:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentsual View Post

Frederice Malle's Une Rose - although it may not be 'oriental', is a definite take on quality rose material that I believe men should be able to pull off. "treating rose gentle pays dividends...." - from Luca Turin's review of UR in Perfumes: The Guide. I enjoyed my recent wearing of it the other day.

Une Rose is a must test. Powerfully prominent rose note with resonance throughout the day. The base faithfully replicates the smell of the soil in a rose garden.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post

Also, any thoughts on Serge Lutens' Rose De Nuit? I've been looking at some reviews and it sounds like it might be up my alley.

Leathery rose chypre with a classic feel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange. Rose pushed to the edge on a base of patchouli and incense.

Outstanding recommendation, Ruggles. Rossy de Palma is one of my favorite rose-centric scents. Cocoa and benzoin blend well with the patchouli and incense. Give it a few more chances, Galamb_Borong, before writing this one off.

Amouage Lyric Woman.Notes of bergamot, spicy cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, rose, angelica, jasmine, ylang-ylang, geranium, orris, oakmoss, musk, wood, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, frankincense. The base smells phenomenal on me.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if. Sweet spicy rose.
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post #35 of 38
12/10/08 at 7:55pm
For an Oriental rose fragrance, I'd highly recommend sampling Lorenzo Villoresi Musk. It's a soft, sweet, and powdery rose note. It's not very masculine but one of the best rose scents out there IMO.
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post #36 of 38
12/10/08 at 8:04pm
Another vote for Hammam Bouquet, may also want to try Penhaligon's new Elixir, supposed to be a new take on HB with a definite oriental/rose vibe. I haven't tried it yet but looking to sample it soon.
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post #37 of 38
12/11/08 at 3:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post

Thanks for all your suggestions! Anyone know where I can get samples of Hammam Bouquet and MPG's Secret Melange?

Also, any thoughts on Serge Lutens' Rose De Nuit? I've been looking at some reviews and it sounds like it might be up my alley.

Beauty Encounter sells carded samples of most MPG scents, check there.

Please try Rose De Nuit. I smelled it for the 1st time a week ago, and it's a strange and fascinating rose chypre. I didn't mention it before, because of the 'oriental' in the title of this thread, but this is not your everyday rose scent.
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post #38 of 38
12/12/08 at 2:14pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Beauty Encounter sells carded samples of most MPG scents, check there.
Please try Rose De Nuit. I smelled it for the 1st time a week ago, and it's a strange and fascinating rose chypre. I didn't mention it before, because of the 'oriental' in the title of this thread, but this is not your everyday rose scent.

Thank you! I'll check it out; I'll likely be making my order today.
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