In my opinion, and I have vintage Guerlain Vetiver EDT back to the 80'-90's formula up to the 2000 formulation and Vintage EdC - there is less difference between the 80's-90's formula and the end of the 90's than the 2000 formulation. By the way, who put the picture of the empty bottle up for 2007 - is anyone here ignorant enough to believe that there is water or no Vetiver fragrance when you buy a box from 2007?? Almost humorous.
Any way, I concur with scentemental - that there was a small amount of oakmoss in Vintage Guerlain Vetiver (not 5ml per 125ml though - that would be a 2% mix into the composition and, in my opinion...overpowering). I am not a perfumier nor do I play one on TV, but Guerlain's composition did not rely as heavily on oakmoss as other fragrances of its time as a fixative, for example, the classic Aromatic Fougeres of the 70's & 80's that were castrated by IFRA by the oakmoss ban.
Not to be insulting, but this is simply ridiculous:
In my opinion, Scentdirect is one of the better resources for fragrance pyramids.
This is their note structure for Guerlain Vetiver:
Top notes; Bergamot oil, Coriander, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli,
Middle notes: Carnation, Clary Sage oil, Orris, Sandal, Vetiver,
Base notes: Amber, Civet, Leather, Myrrh, Oakmoss, Oilbanum,
Honestly, not worth a comment (maybe a laugh) as it is so far from what is in the actual composition (stop reading and please use your nose). Guerlain's Vetiver (in EDT form) has always been about three key ingredients - Bergamot, Vetiver and Tobacco. Yes, Lemon is in the top of the 2000 formulation to brighten the citrus, while a dusting of light coriander (less then Givenchy's Vetyver in Vintage form) is there - but, the major spices that transition to the heart of vetiver are nutmeg and pepper (not heavy or coarse-ground, but respectful and enough to add depth and sparkle). The base had a light touch of oakmoss with the core note of tobacco in older vintage and new, and everyone here (except Guerlain) seems to forget that Tonka Bean (coumarin) was and is essential in the base - which it always has been.
Oakmoss was light added touch that I get from the older juice. My Vintage Eau de Cologne from the 70's (in the zig-zag black & white box) is a perfect example of Guerlain's Vetiver in its truest form. A beautiful and eloquent bergamot oil on top that does not over power, a heart of gorgeous, deep and essential vetiver (a touch rooty, a touch smoky and as close to the purity of the root one will find in any bottle ever found with a Guerlain label) and a base that, of course, has no tobacco. Therein lies the key. I pick-up from the EdC a trace of light oakmoss - only if I tell myself it's there. From experience, I find that it is the essential oil of vetiver that has matured in the bottle and the shades of green that develop upon pH blending with the skin, etc. Vetiver oil changes over the years and can add dimensions unto itself - it matures and improves with age, if stored properly. Also, the older the root, the deeper and more intense the oil will be. We all know that the oldest vetiver roots in the world are no longer in existence. That has all be pulled from the earth and squeezed into a bottle of something (perhaps a Guerlain) years and years ago. It takes approximately 200 pounds of vetiver root to get 1 liquid pound of vetiver essential oil (and that is before refinement).
Now - if you perspire, you release salt from your body. Vetiver EdC shows beautifully year-round, but was (and still is) the quintessential warm weather scent on a global scale (various bottlings, not just Guerlain's). People talk about a saline quality or salty-vibe in vetiver (without going into the territory of Annick Goutal's bottle that washed ashore on a wave onto a beach - wonderful, but a creation and part of the composition with iodine, etc.) What most people don't probably think about is that fragrance absorbs into our skin and breathes back to our noses and to those around us. A humid climate will naturally create a vetiver fragrance to have a light saline quality when the wearer perspires. Some people sweat more than others - and have naturally oilier skin. So much of this is subjective to the wearer. I mention this because if someone wore vetiver and picked up certain "qualities" or aspects, that may be how it wears on them at that time. Wear it in the cool winter and results may be different. Bathing is key too - clean skin versus dirty/oily skin will have a significant effect on what you smell. In some cultures, wearing essential oils is the substitute of bathing (which is only done occassionally). There is NO incense in Guerlain Vetiver EDT (not a single formulation), but if your culture burns a lot of incense and your skin and clothing absorb it, you will find the note blended in with the fragrance. The leather note - not to be rude - but, seriously...take off your leather jacket before applying Guerlain Vetiver all over it. Or, stop smelling how it absorbed into your couch a week after you spilled the splash bottle on your leather sofa. That note is absolutely not there - leather in Guerlain Vetiver???? Please.
I believe the contention that oakmoss was a key part of Guerlain's Vetiver is over-stated, but not to be overlooked. Personally, I believe it may have been used very, very lightly (if at all) in Vintage EdC and (IMHO) a very light amount was added to Vintage EDT. It made what was there better, deeper, richer - but you smell depth of the vetiver accord in the base (and bottle maturation of the vetiver blending the touch of oakmoss)...not oakmoss unto itself. The tobacco and tonka bean were the true essence of the base that allowed the KEY ingredient (vetiver itself) to have more warmth, smokiness, and a deft touch of taste. For those who do not know this, Tonka Bean oil was extracted from the seed to flavor tobacco (coincidence? No.) - that was coumarin's primary purpose. The two go hand-in-hand.
A final comment. The 2000 formulation was, in my opinion, a fantastic bottle of vetiver that Guerlain offered the new millenium. While it made citrus a lot brighter, this was to appease the buyers of fresher vetivers (more office-friendly), while the heart remained the same and the base of nice tobacco and tonka bean carry the slightly lighter (but still wonderfully sharp and vibrant green) vetiver accord for very good duration. It is a bit loud upon application (which I do not mind), but I think it is excellent after it tones down (10-15 minutes on skin, 20-30 minutes on fabric).
Vintage Vetiver EDT is superior - agreed. Vintage Vetiver Eau de Cologne is the essence of all bottlings and the most pure (and my favorite), but the 2000 formulation gave us something very solid that lasted a full decade - very good, indeed. I personally feel that it did not overly-modernize a classic and the ribbed bottling is fantastic! It is more wearable year-round than Vintage as well...something Guerlain intended, as well as more "professional" - a scent for the office of the new millenium. The flankers also proved that Guerlain was ready to make a move into a larger space of compositions around their flagship. Ironically, on the fantastic Vetiver Extreme survived that into the next bottling (which we have today) - and unfortunately too, as both the Sport and Eau Glacee/Frozen bottlings were very good unto themselves. Unique and different enough for a vetiver lover to admire the individual qualities of. Both, also ironically, offered a "cleaner" and more lifted versions of the scent and both removed tobacco from the base notes. Vetiver Extreme (again, wonderful bottle by Guerlain) offers a very different and much more complex composition that adds a lot of wood (cedar), herbs and removes tobacco as well. Is tobacco an offender in the "smoke-free" world? To some, yes. It was the only ingredient keeping consumers away from Guerlain's standard EDT bottling. People might complain for a short period of the bright citrus on top (vibrant and radiant, indeed) - but if you do not like tobacco, Guerlain's Vetiver will fall off your list rather quickly.
Guerlain continues today with the new formula that I have held off on purchasing, but will soon out of sheer curiosity. Reviews are everywhere - but a lot of comments seem to say that Guerlain is trying to repackage the classic scent into the Habit Rouge bottle from the late 90's to create a sense of yesteryear. Is it superior to anything that has been bottled up to now, including the excellent 2000 juice? That is subjective to the wearer...I will decide for myself.