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woody/gourmand but without the toothache

post #1 of 30
2/11/09 at 4:48am
Thread Starter 
Hi folks,

What are your recs for something in the balsamic/woody/gourmand line without being cloying or sacharrine sweet i.e. not Angel which I appreciate on others but can't wear myself.

I'm thinking in the manner of Eau de Merveilles, Bois des Iles, Allure Sensuelle, Ambre Narguile.

Any suggestions - niche or mainstream much appreciated.
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post #2 of 30
2/11/09 at 5:15am
Try Givenchy Organza Indecence, it seems like it would fit the bill. I'm wearing it today, and it's really lovely.
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post #3 of 30
2/11/09 at 6:12am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amandamorris1121 View Post

Try Givenchy Organza Indecence, it seems like it would fit the bill. I'm wearing it today, and it's really lovely.

Ah, yes - good call. I love OI. Pity it's so difficult to get hold of these days. I have a secret stash that should last a little while.

Whilst I think about it, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille probably also falls under the woody/gourmand heading and Esteban Sensuelle Russie.
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post #4 of 30
2/11/09 at 6:58am
A lovely, every day woody/gourmand: Valentino V

top notes: Tangerine, Pink Grapefruit, Green Fig, Freesia
heart notes: Rose, Orange Blossom, Heliotrope
base notes: Mysore Sandalwood, Atlas Cedar, Amber, Musk

V Absolu is similar but sweeter.
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post #5 of 30
2/11/09 at 7:05am
I think Le baiser du dragon(espesially in th edp formulation)might fit your description
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post #6 of 30
2/11/09 at 7:14am
Aomassai 10, if you can get past the first 5 minutes worth of burnt caramel?
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post #7 of 30
2/11/09 at 7:16am
Lutens' Un Bois Vanille sounds about right to me. I second Aomassai (Parfumerie Generale).
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post #8 of 30
2/11/09 at 7:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leontion View Post

Hi folks,

What are your recs for something in the balsamic/woody/gourmand line without being cloying or sacharrine sweet i.e. not Angel which I appreciate on others but can't wear myself.

I'm thinking in the manner of Eau de Merveilles, Bois des Iles, Allure Sensuelle, Ambre Narguile.

Any suggestions - niche or mainstream much appreciated.

Off the top of my head without checking notes or categories I would recommend:

5 Star Fragrance Company Royal Secret II
TBS (The Body Shop) Woody Sandalwood
iPdF Ambre di Nepal
Givenchy Organza Indecence
CDG Wood Coffee
Serge Lutens Une Bois Vanille
Serge Lutens Douche Amere
Coty Wild Woods
Bond Street No.9 Chinatown
Guerlain Winter Delice
Ava Luxe Shisha
Shiseido / Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois
Tom Ford Black Orchid (this is sexy zucchini cake on me... very unique)
Serge Lutens Vetiver Orientale
Ava Luxe Amber Woods
Joop! Joop! Femme

Hope that list helps... Let us know how it goes
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post #9 of 30
2/11/09 at 7:50am
Where's my head? Aomassai has usually been the first thing to roll off my tongue. I also second Un Bois Vanille and Douce Amere.
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post #10 of 30
2/11/09 at 8:20am
Trouble by Boucheron
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post #11 of 30
2/11/09 at 8:27am
Organza Indecence - vanilla custard, woods and cinnamon
Azzura - mandarin, woods and a hint of vanilla to smooth it out.
Tocca Eau de Touch - pomegranate, rizzy balsam
Chopard Mira-bai - black currant, praline, sandalwood
Burberry (original) - black currant, peach, apricot, pear, marigold, green apple, jasmine, musk, vanilla, cedar
Neonatura Cocoon - cocoa, vanilla, patchouli
Cristobal - fig, woody oriental
Hot Couture - raspberry, vanilla, woods, spices
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post #12 of 30
2/11/09 at 8:43am
Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 sounds to fit the bill: vegetal patchouli + cocoa beans = gourmand heaven
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post #13 of 30
2/11/09 at 8:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leontion View Post

Ah, yes - good call. I love OI. Pity it's so difficult to get hold of these days. I have a secret stash that should last a little while.

Whilst I think about it, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille probably also falls under the woody/gourmand heading and Esteban Sensuelle Russie.

OI has been re-released. New bottle. Same or similar (I leave it to the experts HERE to decide that) fragrance.

I think Bois de Paradis might fit the bill. Same with Bois Farine. These are two of my favorites. Others:

Costume National 21
Vetiver Tonka (has a sweetness about it that is very appealing to me..no sharp edges either)
Nuits de Noho (a bit of a stretch)
EL Sensuous
Another recommendation for Un Bois Vanille
Montale also makes a Bois Vanille that is very nice.
Bois 1920 Extreme (high on my wishlist..really gorgeous)

Are you feeling overloaded with recommendations yet!
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post #14 of 30
2/11/09 at 8:55am
PG's Aomassai is a great suggestion, and if you'd like a slightly more wood then gourmand, Parfumerie Generale's Cadjmere is another good choice, and a spicier version is Coze.

It costs a ton, but Guerlain Oriental Brulent is a good balance between incense/wood and amber/vanilla.

Dior Homme is another fragrance that would fit the bill as well.
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post #15 of 30
2/11/09 at 9:33am
A few more to add to my earlier list:

Rochas Absolu
Cacharel Gloria
5 Star Fragrance Company Royal Secret
Coty Emeraude
Jean Patou Sublime
Chopard Casmir - this is a dependent on chemistry and mood blend. I adored when younger but now find it too sweet and cloying. I can only wear in deepest, coldest winter. I know that it is the tonka bean in this that is the culprit. If your chemistry can handle tonka bean then give it a try.

Many of the later suggestions here seem to be moving more into the winter (spicy,fruity) gourmand woody rather than the requested ambery gourmand woods... (if you understand the difference I am perceiving here).

Just in case you do find what you are seeking there may I also suggest:

Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir
Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant
Gucci Accenti
Serge Lutens Arabie
Rochas Rochas Femme
Jean Patou Colony
Jean Patou Patou Forever (candied pineapple - yum!)
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post #16 of 30
2/11/09 at 11:57am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by moondeva View Post

A few more to add to my earlier list:

Rochas Absolu
Cacharel Gloria
5 Star Fragrance Company Royal Secret
Coty Emeraude
Jean Patou Sublime
Chopard Casmir - this is a dependent on chemistry and mood blend. I adored when younger but now find it too sweet and cloying. I can only wear in deepest, coldest winter. I know that it is the tonka bean in this that is the culprit. If your chemistry can handle tonka bean then give it a try.

Many of the later suggestions here seem to be moving more into the winter (spicy,fruity) gourmand woody rather than the requested ambery gourmand woods... (if you understand the difference I am perceiving here).

Just in case you do find what you are seeking there may I also suggest:

Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir
Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant
Gucci Accenti
Serge Lutens Arabie
Rochas Rochas Femme
Jean Patou Colony
Jean Patou Patou Forever (candied pineapple - yum!)

Some fantastic suggestions - many thanks all round Basenoters!! You've very much hit exactly the sort of thing I'm after - a few of you have identified some other fragrances I already love (Cocoon, OI, Winter Delice) so I'm confident that I'll love many of your other suggestions.

I think I'll start by revisiting some of the Parfumerie Generale line again - I'm sure I have samples of some of those mentioned knocking around somewhere.

I think this is one of my favourite categories, but it's also the most liable to disappoint. I often read lists of delicious sounding notes and then the reality doesn't quite measure up - I think it's easier to know what to expect with a list of floral notes.

Perfumes should come with a sweetness rating - ranked on a scale from Chanel No 19 to Pink Sugar! I like some sweetness but don't want to smell overtly candified - it's often the single factor that ruins a fragrance for me.
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post #17 of 30
2/16/09 at 10:37am
Ooooh! Recently discovered gem you might like...

Arran Aromatics Amber Woods (lifestyle fragrance - body and home)

amazing warm sophisticated elegant woods with a touch of amber without being cloying or exceptionally foody / gourmand. layer with Soft Cinnamon from the same range and go to amber woods heaven!
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post #18 of 30
2/16/09 at 10:46am
My Sotd Borneo 1834 fits the description perfectly
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post #19 of 30
2/16/09 at 8:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leontion View Post

Hi folks,

What are your recs for something in the balsamic/woody/gourmand line without being cloying or sacharrine sweet i.e. not Angel which I appreciate on others but can't wear myself.

I'm thinking in the manner of Eau de Merveilles, Bois des Iles, Allure Sensuelle, Ambre Narguile.

Any suggestions - niche or mainstream much appreciated.

SL Douce Amere
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post #20 of 30
2/16/09 at 8:16pm
was just introduced to Bond No. 9's Lexington Avenue (the most recent Andy Warhol-inspired Bond)

woody gourmand but very modern! gorgeous

and how cool - it opens with woods AND has wood in the drydown (usually it's only in the drydown)

and the gourmands are unusual and delicious - creme brulee, toasted almonds, YUM
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post #21 of 30
2/16/09 at 8:27pm
You might like:

Kenzo Amour Le Parfum
Myrrhe Ardente - Annick Goutal
Vol de Nuit Evasion - Guerlain
Midnight Poison - Dior
Bois Rouge - Tom Ford
Bois de Paradis -Parfums Delrae

cheers!
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post #22 of 30
2/16/09 at 8:33pm
If you want a fruity wood, U by Ungaro for men and Samba Sexy for men are simple and good (not too sweet and well balanced). I don't see why they can't be "unisex."
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post #23 of 30
2/16/09 at 9:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by moondeva View Post

Tom Ford Black Orchid (this is sexy zucchini cake on me... very unique)

I have always wondered what dessert I'd eaten that smells like this...will try Zucchini cake next time it pops up. Thanks.
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post #24 of 30
2/16/09 at 9:30pm
A seemingly untouched "respectably sweet" gourmand/woody...is Keihl's Forest Rain. Definitely on the feminine side of unisex, it starts off with a very wet/damp/dew-covered wood and leaf smell, not noticeably sweet at first, then as it dries, it becomes more and more like a very sexy almond extract type of smell.

Highly recommended all the females of the board try this one.
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post #25 of 30
2/16/09 at 9:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DULLAH View Post

A seemingly untouched "respectably sweet" gourmand/woody...is Keihl's Forest Rain. Definitely on the feminine side of unisex, it starts off with a very wet/damp/dew-covered wood and leaf smell, not noticeably sweet at first, then as it dries, it becomes more and more like a very sexy almond extract type of smell.

Highly recommended all the females of the board try this one.

Mmm you've convinced me to try it!
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post #26 of 30
2/16/09 at 10:12pm
Now that you have a list a mile long, do get back to us with what you've tried, and what fits the bill!
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post #27 of 30
2/16/09 at 10:42pm
Many good suggestions so far! Some recommendations, from moderately sweet to moderately dry ( I have yet to encounter a very dry gourmand ):

Ayala Moriel's Immortelle L'Amour ( vanilla tempered with immortelle )
Parfumerie Generale's Cedre Sandaraque ( cedar and candy floss... which sounds gross, but isn't )
Santa Maria Novella's Tobacco Toscano ( light tobacco-tinged vanilla, very different from Tobacco Vanille )
Histoires de Parfums Marquis de Sade ( leather and immortelle meet fruity gourmand )
Serge Lutens Serge Noir ( dry woods and spices )
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post #28 of 30
2/17/09 at 12:41pm
Annick Goutal - Sables
Guerlain - Iris Ganache
Jean Paul Gaultier - Gaultier 2
Aftelier - Cacao
Frapin - 1270
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post #29 of 30
2/17/09 at 1:17pm
Mauboussin, Felanilla, richly gourmand, ambery-fruity and vanille-safran-wood, neither too sweet to my taste. Bois d'Armenie: very rich ambery balsamic, not exactly sweet. Un Bois Vanille -- darkly sweet but also fresh. Caravelle Epice -- lightly spicey, woody. '

One fun category to play in.
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post #30 of 30
2/19/09 at 4:37pm
The Italian firm Sinfonia di Note (carried at Luckyscent) makes a fragrance called Fleur de Santal which would fit your requirements. It has a totally addictive sandalwood/patchouli/vanilla aura to it. I very nearly toppled off my budget and ordered it - but regained my balance in time. Maybe I'll cave a little later. Anyway, it has a "buried" sweetness that is teasing rather than oppressive - the vanilla knows its place, and it's not in the spotlight.
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