I received my free C&S sample pack today - a complete set of the whole line, nicely wrapped, with a handsome brochure (which does not yet list Rose and Mimosa). I own five C&Ss (88, Cuba, Neroli, Paradisi, vintage F&M) and have samples of vintage 88, Dark Rose and Rose, so I was particularly interested in the new versions of the latter & Mimosa.
Dark Rose has changed, though perhaps not quite as dramatically as No. 88. On application there is a burst of, well, dark rose, in the vintage that I don't find in the new. Then, an equally darker oud makes its appearance, not harsh as in the "oudier" Montales, but deeper than in the reformulation. The latter appears lighter and, due to the more restrained oud, sweeter. The saffron is present and crisp here. It reminds me a lot of the gentler Montale Ouds like Damascus. As the fragrances settle they converge somewhat, but the distinction of more "heaviness" and persistence in the vintage remains clear. I prefer this version, though that may be a matter of taste. However, I'm not sure the new Dark Rose adds much to what Montale has already done and I personally find the saffron-rose accord of Tremlett's Black Tie more satisfying. All this to be taken with the caveat that my nose is somewhat impaired at the moment.
I only briefly sniffed the new F&M and while it's nice it appears defanged. It's more of a conventional citrus top-wood base than previously, when there where mintier elements on top and really distinct frankincense and myrrh notes with no more than afterthoughts of wood.
Mimosa smells very promising, it's a dirty white floral and contrary to the disappointing Eau d'Hiver it actually smells of flowers, green stems, earth and fertilizer -a hyperrealistic "mucking around in the garden/greenhouse" scent as one expects it from an English perfumer. Very indolic jasmine or some synthetic civet imported from Cuba (hey, they need the dividends). Very promising and by all means unisex.
Dark Rose has changed, though perhaps not quite as dramatically as No. 88. On application there is a burst of, well, dark rose, in the vintage that I don't find in the new. Then, an equally darker oud makes its appearance, not harsh as in the "oudier" Montales, but deeper than in the reformulation. The latter appears lighter and, due to the more restrained oud, sweeter. The saffron is present and crisp here. It reminds me a lot of the gentler Montale Ouds like Damascus. As the fragrances settle they converge somewhat, but the distinction of more "heaviness" and persistence in the vintage remains clear. I prefer this version, though that may be a matter of taste. However, I'm not sure the new Dark Rose adds much to what Montale has already done and I personally find the saffron-rose accord of Tremlett's Black Tie more satisfying. All this to be taken with the caveat that my nose is somewhat impaired at the moment.
I only briefly sniffed the new F&M and while it's nice it appears defanged. It's more of a conventional citrus top-wood base than previously, when there where mintier elements on top and really distinct frankincense and myrrh notes with no more than afterthoughts of wood.
Mimosa smells very promising, it's a dirty white floral and contrary to the disappointing Eau d'Hiver it actually smells of flowers, green stems, earth and fertilizer -a hyperrealistic "mucking around in the garden/greenhouse" scent as one expects it from an English perfumer. Very indolic jasmine or some synthetic civet imported from Cuba (hey, they need the dividends). Very promising and by all means unisex.
& you haven't sniffed the juice yet...
