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New Guerlains

post #1 of 32
3/9/09 at 12:46am
Thread Starter 
I spent some time at the Champs Elysee Guerlain flagship yesterday, one of the few stores open on Sunday, and tried their new offerings.
Habit Rouge Sport: Smells like one of the Allure flankers, not much Habit Rouge going on here.
Habit Rouge L'Extrait: What this hesperidic/oud accord has to do with the original HR is beyond me. Awfully expensive, who needs 50ml of an extrait - you're not missing out on much here. Pass.
Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus: To my disappointment, this limited edition is no longer available.
Le Petite Robe Noir: Warning, you have just entered Girl-land. Naming a new fragrance after a cliche can turn into a very slippery slope. The packaging, with an abstract black dress printed on a modified version of the classic Mitsouko bottle, screams contemporary meets classic. IMO, Guerlain has produced their new blockbuster, masterpiece. Easier on the nose than the obnoxiously LOUD Insolence, but following a similar progression: the ridiculous to the sublime. LPRN is a lovely dry-down attached to a mainstream, fruity gourmand opening. I may have to buy a bottle to wear with my male version of the little black dress: a black cashmere turtleneck, jeans and a pair of Italian loafers. Viva Guerlain!.
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post #2 of 32
3/9/09 at 12:49am
Is this Habit Rouge Parfum the L'Extrait? If so, how does it differ, as far as the pyramid, from Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum?
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post #3 of 32
3/9/09 at 2:17am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron01 View Post

Is this Habit Rouge Parfum the L'Extrait? If so, how does it differ, as far as the pyramid, from Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum?

Yes, I stand corrected. It's more in keeping with the EdP, but it has nothing to do with the classic EdC and EdT. Gone is the original and lovely balance between citrus and vanilla, gone is the leather, gone is Habit Rouge. This smells like a refined lime, light aoud, tea accord without any evolution. I just don't get it.
Calling Luca Turin, emergency, come right away!
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post #4 of 32
3/9/09 at 7:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Yes, I stand corrected. It's more in keeping with the EdP, but it has nothing to do with the classic EdC and EdT. Gone is the original and lovely balance between citrus and vanilla, gone is the leather, gone is Habit Rouge. This smells like a refined lime, light aoud, tea accord without any evolution. I just don't get it.
Calling Luca Turin, emergency, come right away!

How very odd Ruggles. This is not the impression one gets from reading previous testimony on Habit Rouge extrait. The impression one gets from such testimony is that is it is basically the basenote accord of the original Habit Rouge EDT.

I'll be honest, I trust your assessment of it in this regard, so please do understand that I am not casting aspersions on your observations, which I have always appreciated and respected.

I would be grateful for some further clarification from other Basenoters who have tried the extrait.

scentemental


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post #5 of 32
3/9/09 at 7:34am
I personally didn't find the HR extrait to be such a departure from the EdT, though it's been a few weeks since I played with my sample, which I will revisit later and report back. I'm still looking for an EdP sample... anyone.... I'm so tempted I may just buy blind.

I have a healthy decant of Le Petite Robe Noir, and I very much like it... well, I really like the first 2-3 hours, which presents itself as a cherry/rose gourmand not entirely unlike Etat Libre's Bendelirious, but much more lush and 'Guerlinized' (vanilla, heliotrope, musk). I say the first 2-3 hours because the transition from it's gourmand opening is disappointing... on my skin it actually veers towards lemon and then just falls apart and fades out. I will say, the opening is great and I'm seriously thinking it's worth the price of admission ($150).
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post #6 of 32
3/9/09 at 7:50am
Thanks, Ruggles!

I hope the name "La Petite Robe Noir" has a better ring to it in French. There can be little doubt who the target customers are. I'm looking forward to trying it, though - along with HR Sport.
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post #7 of 32
3/9/09 at 9:46am
OK, so I dug out my HR extrait sample and applied. The citrus opening remains though more muted than in the EdT and far more then the EdC - but it's still present. The composition as a whole has a richness to it, owing to its concentration. I do detect a bit of the oud note described in the EdP as the citrus fades about 45-60 minutes after application. If this is a richer version of the EdP, I think I will just buy the EdP blind.
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post #8 of 32
3/9/09 at 10:09am
Sounds lovely, the Petite Robe Noire! Must try it.

I also rushed back home to get on my Habit Rouge extrait, and I still don't get the agarwood note of the EdP. I get more wood than in the EdT (I assume Guerlain didn't want to add more vanilla to scare men away with making it even more like Shalimar), but I don't get that "red" agarwood. Maybe it's the rosewood (that's also in the EdT)? In addition, I get more patchouli also. Overall, I get a less animalic, more refined and formal version of the EdT, and of course intense - I get small, woody-smoky-resinous wiffs from it, the same way that Guerlain's extraits usually give. I also get more basil than in the EdT. I finally I get a very hard-boiled bergamot staying there for a long time. But true, it's much less powdery-vanilla than the EdT. It's a quite different Habit Rouge, but distinctively Habit Rouge. To my nose (or brain, as Turin would say...).
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post #9 of 32
3/9/09 at 10:53am
I have to agree with Mr.G - after a brief whiff, I don't really get the oud note as the extrait develops (though I could have sworn I smelled it for a few moments, but maybe because I was looking for it). Overall it's pretty damn fine and I do wish I had a bottle.
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post #10 of 32
3/9/09 at 12:39pm
Thanks for the report Ruggles.

I am amazed that the Paris store didn't have any Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus. Wow! I really wanted to sample that one. I mean why even sample it, if I'm going to fall in love with it and then not be able to purchase it??

How is the cherry note in Le Petit Robe Noir? It sounds ghastly.
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post #11 of 32
3/9/09 at 3:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Thanks for the report Ruggles
How is the cherry note in Le Petit Robe Noir? It sounds ghastly.

No, the cherry note is beyond awesome.
Wait until I report on the new Montale Aoud Leather; Tom Ford should run into hiding.
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post #12 of 32
3/9/09 at 4:09pm
Ruggles - is the Montale Aoud Leather a different one than the Montale Aoud Lime Leather I've seen on TPC? It is very different from Aoud Cuir d'Arabie? I've very curious to hear your report back! Enjoy the rest of your trip!
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post #13 of 32
3/9/09 at 5:14pm
I did the same exercice 2 weeks before Ruggles ... Quite disappointing.

I came back home with tea.
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post #14 of 32
3/9/09 at 5:32pm
Very disappointing about the Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus ~ confusing too, I read somewhere that it was to be released January 2009...then I read that it's release would be in the Asian markets...who the heck knows?! If YOU couldn't get it in Paris, I don't hold out much hope for the rest of us.
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post #15 of 32
3/9/09 at 6:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

No, the cherry note is beyond awesome...

Good news. Here's hoping Guerlain re-releases it.

The MFdL release reminds me of the mania behind the release of Azuree Soleil Body Oil when Tom Ford first released it for Lauder. It also flew off the shelves!
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post #16 of 32
3/9/09 at 10:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ubuandibeme View Post

Very disappointing about the Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus ~ confusing too, I read somewhere that it was to be released January 2009...then I read that it's release would be in the Asian markets...who the heck knows?! If YOU couldn't get it in Paris, I don't hold out much hope for the rest of us.

Yes, Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus was to be launched in the Asia market, bu the story goes that by mistake a few bottles went to the Champs Elysees store and were sold out right away.
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post #17 of 32
3/10/09 at 12:22am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbBD View Post

Ruggles - is the Montale Aoud Leather a different one than the Montale Aoud Lime Leather I've seen on TPC? It is very different from Aoud Cuir d'Arabie? I've very curious to hear your report back! Enjoy the rest of your trip!

It's from the new parfum series called Gold. Released last November; 4 in the series, the bottles are shiny, rose gold. The others are Amber and Spice, Rose and one based on Omani gum.
My 50ml. cost a mere 65 Euros.
It lasts forever.
The reason I mention Tom Ford is that Aoud Leather is a dead ringer for his Tuscan Leather, but with Aoud added.
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post #18 of 32
3/10/09 at 1:23am
The only places I saw (an tried) Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus were the Guerlain's corners at Galeries Lafayette and Bon Marché (and it was still present last week)
when i went to La Maison at Champs Elysees it was'nt there
surely the best of the new releases

La petite robe noire didn't impress me neither in its EdT nor EdP concentration, well made though; the liquorice head has indeed something that evokes "black" and the cherry note combines well with bitter almond but the overall evolution is rather disappointing (even if all Guerlain is in it)
There was also an exhibition of black dresses from Chanel, Lanvin ...at Champs Elysees

Habit Rouge Sport...well, i think i have already said what a disaster and a shame it was
Habit Rouge Parfum (Extrait) : very rich and intense but i had the impression that all notes were at the same level
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post #19 of 32
3/10/09 at 10:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by germanomio View Post

The only places I saw (an tried) Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus were the Guerlain's corners at Galeries Lafayette and Bon Marché (and it was still present last week)
when i went to La Maison at Champs Elysees it was'nt there
surely the best of the new releases

La petite robe noire didn't impress me neither in its EdT nor EdP concentration, well made though; the liquorice head has indeed something that evokes "black" and the cherry note combines well with bitter almond but the overall evolution is rather disappointing (even if all Guerlain is in it)
There was also an exhibition of black dresses from Chanel, Lanvin ...at Champs Elysees

Habit Rouge Sport...well, i think i have already said what a disaster and a shame it was
Habit Rouge Parfum (Extrait) : very rich and intense but i had the impression that all notes were at the same level

Drat! I didn't get to Bon Marche when I was on the left bank. It started to rain when I was heading there and I ducked into Cafe Flore and just hung for a couple of hours. I tried to go to the Aesop store on Rue Bonaparte, but it's closed on Mondays! Too pretentious for me, after all it's not an art gallery!
Habit Rouge parfum is dense, I have no idea how they got the citrus note to smell so unrelenting and harsh.
Well, the gals in Guerlain certainly could have told me to check Bon Marche or Galeries Lafeyette, so much for customer service.
I did buy a bottle of Odalisque from Nicolai. I love the dowdy, little Nicolai store on Rue de Richelieu. The greatest staff, no attitude.
No surprises at Sephora, just huge crowds.
They sell Frederick Malle at the Dries van Noten boutique.
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post #20 of 32
3/31/09 at 4:39pm
Thread Starter 
Well, I finally tried Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus and all I have to say is meh. They took Mitsouko, turned down the moss and peach, basically the most interesting parts, and added a very synthetic floral heart note.
Unlike Shalimar Legere/Light, this is not a re-working, but rather a tweak. Why did they bother?
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post #21 of 32
3/31/09 at 4:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Well, I finally tried Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus and all I have to say is meh. They took Mitsouko, turned down the moss and peach, basically the most interesting parts, and added a very synthetic floral heart note.
Unlike Shalimar Legere/Light, this is not a re-working, but rather a tweak. Why did they bother?

How disappointing to hear this! Thank you for sharing it though.
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post #22 of 32
3/31/09 at 6:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Well, I finally tried Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus and all I have to say is meh. They took Mitsouko, turned down the moss and peach, basically the most interesting parts, and added a very synthetic floral heart note.
Unlike Shalimar Legere/Light, this is not a re-working, but rather a tweak. Why did they bother?

How sad. Does it still smell like a chypre? What about the longevity?
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post #23 of 32
3/31/09 at 7:46pm
Thread Starter 
It's still a chypre, but it is no longer a bold chypre and the longevity is much less than regular Mitsouko EdT. I'm actually relieved, as, who really needs a Mitsouko flanker anyhow?
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post #24 of 32
4/1/09 at 12:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

It's still a chypre, but it is no longer a bold chypre and the longevity is much less than regular Mitsouko EdT. I'm actually relieved, as, who really needs a Mitsouko flanker anyhow?

contrary to you I wasn't disappointed and I found this flanker very lovely
to me it's rather a summer version as it was made lighter and softer
the whole Mitsouko is still recognisable and the flowers note (the lotus note in particular) are well integrated

I recently tried the new AA: Tiaré-Mimosa smells summer (I can't find another description: tiaré is the smell of summer, the mimosa was bearly detectable); Cherry blossom is so weak that even after several sprays it remains nearly unsmellable, the only note I got was a kind of diluted Eau d'Hermes
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post #25 of 32
4/1/09 at 12:50am
Hey, does anyone know if/when/where Habit Rouge Sport is going to be available in the US (outside of Guerlain boutiques-- I don't live near one)? I know it's getting lousy reviews but I want to get it anyway. Can you just call a Guerlain boutique and have them ship it?
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post #26 of 32
4/1/09 at 2:28am
Thanks, Ruggles, for your trip reports!
Have you been in Caron boutique (av Montaigne)?
I`m especially interested in their new Oud and Royal Oud scents.
What is the legend, the volume/price of bottles, and is it limited edition/distribution scents?
What is the legend of it?
Any chances to buy it somewhere else?

Thanks in advance!
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post #27 of 32
4/1/09 at 6:47am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post

Thanks, Ruggles, for your trip reports!
Have you been in Caron boutique (av Montaigne)?
I`m especially interested in their new Oud and Royal Oud scents.
What is the legend, the volume/price of bottles, and is it limited edition/distribution scents?
What is the legend of it?
Any chances to buy it somewhere else?

Thanks in advance!

I didn't know about them at the time and didn't get to the Caron boutique. Too bad for me as I've heard good things about them.
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post #28 of 32
4/1/09 at 10:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Indie_Guy View Post

Hey, does anyone know if/when/where Habit Rouge Sport is going to be available in the US (outside of Guerlain boutiques-- I don't live near one)? I know it's getting lousy reviews but I want to get it anyway. Can you just call a Guerlain boutique and have them ship it?

I called The Breakers and they don't have it.

I called Bergdorf Goodman and they will have it in stock, at the end of next week. She said they're only getting 12 bottles in. I imagine those'll go fast.
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post #29 of 32
8/3/09 at 12:43pm
I smelled Le Petite Robe Noir a few days ago at Neimans.

Wow, the fruit is so strong. Fruit flavored Gatorade drink, came to mind. OMG, I can't believe Guerlain released something so trashy and fruity. Smells like a drunk, party girl in the VIP lounge GONE WILD! Little black dress? Yeah, right.
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post #30 of 32
8/3/09 at 1:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I smelled Le Petite Robe Noir a few days ago at Neimans.

Wow, the fruit is so strong. Fruit flavored Gatorade drink, came to mind. OMG, I can't believe Guerlain released something so trashy and fruity. Smells like a drunk, party girl in the VIP lounge GONE WILD! Little black dress? Yeah, right.

Have you ever smelled Cherry Blossom Fruity, Love is All or My Insolence? Guerlain certainly has done its share of fruity trash.
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post #31 of 32
8/3/09 at 1:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Have you ever smelled Cherry Blossom Fruity, Love is All or My Insolence? Guerlain certainly has done its share of fruity trash.

I smelled Cherry Blossom at Sephora, later on...but by then my nose was overworked and I didn't want to harshly judge it under those circumstances. I smelled LPRN when my nose was just fine - the fruit practically soared off of the tester strip. I like fruit. But this smelled very, very sweet and the berry aspect of it was very aggressive.
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post #32 of 32
8/3/09 at 3:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Smells like a drunk, party girl in the VIP lounge GONE WILD! Little black dress? Yeah, right.

I like that. Maybe it would turn some of my boring (female) fellow students into something interesting.
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