SOTE: My first test of L'Eau des Hesperides by Diptyque.
The opening was a neroli-heavy citrus with a blast of strong mentholated licorice. It basically smelled like those Fisherman's Friend anise mint candies over some nice green citrus.
Soon, that very common "aquatic" musty melon note came in (is this calone?). Combined with the menthol licorice, this simulates something like rotting salad greens and/or cucumbers. The reviews here liken it to salty celery, which is very apt.
Without that, the citrus would be nice, but this kind of neroli-heavy green-ish citrus mix can be found without the funk in Penhaligan's Castille (they use powder instead) or Bond's Eau De New York, which puts its similar neroli/citrus accord over creamy sandalwood.
The more Diptyques I try, the more I keep thinking the same: This is a nice idea, obviously made by someone good at what they do, but intentionally putting in something to make their scents "challenging" which ends up making me not like them.
In a way, it's clever of them to use licorice and menthol to bring out the musky funk hiding in that "aquatic" calone smell, but this isn't what I'd want to smell like...