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"Kiss from a Rose" -> Rose 31 vs. Paestum Rose

post #1 of 32
5/9/09 at 11:05am
Thread Starter 
So I've been sampling both of these, compliments of two wonderful friends here on BN. Amouage Homage was the first rose fragrance I'll admit to finding wearable.

What do you folks think is best of the two? I'm quite torn.. I think B. Duchaufour's Paestum Rose in the Eau d'Italie line is very dry, crisp and earthy. Utterly masculine on my skin.

Until I'd tried Paestum Rose, it was Rose 31 that seemed to evoke the most pleasure. I'll admit that I found Rose 31 a bit sweet for my tastes - not the rose, but another note in the blend (maybe amber?).

OK, so they're both wonderful. Of all of the rose fragrances I've tried so far, I've deemed these two most "suitable" for men.. I think it comes down to purchasing one of the two.

If anyone can steer me in the right direction insofar as longevity/sillage, any other concerns, that would be very helpful! Of course, I'm most interested in reading thoughts.

BTW - I've tried Amouage Lyric, C&S 88, Dark Rose, Montale Black Aoud, etc.
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post #2 of 32
5/9/09 at 11:19am
Have you tried Penhaglion's Elixir? It shares a similar rose note to Paestum Rose, and has replaced it as my "go-to" transparent rose after Paestum started getting too peppery for me.
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post #3 of 32
5/9/09 at 11:27am
Thread Starter 
I haven't tried any of the Penhaglion's line yet, I'm ashamed to admit!

You found Paestum Rose peppery, Galamb? I can smell it, but it seems to be covered by this fresh.. chlorophyll type quality that is very very natural.. raw and earthy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post

Have you tried Penhaglion's Elixir? It shares a similar rose note to Paestum Rose, and has replaced it as my "go-to" transparent rose after Paestum started getting too peppery for me.
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post #4 of 32
5/9/09 at 11:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyDG View Post

I haven't tried any of the Penhaglion's line yet, I'm ashamed to admit!

You found Paestum Rose peppery, Galamb? I can smell it, but it seems to be covered by this fresh.. chlorophyll type quality that is very very natural.. raw and earthy.

I'm not exactly sure how to describe the note. It's kind of woody-peppery and it's in a couple other Bertrand Duchaufour fragrances, such as Magnolia Romana and Dzongka. I still quite like Paestum Rose; it's great, I just find that note kind of lingers on longer than I'd like it to.

As for not trying Penhaglion's... I haven't tried any Le Labo's, so we're even on that one. I guess that's part of the fun - always more to explore!
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post #5 of 32
5/9/09 at 11:55am
I prefer Rose 31. It's a compliment whore scent (I must admit). It smells sexier. It wears well in warm and cool weather.

Paestum Rose is a slightly salty rose, with a certain apple-cider-vinegar acidity to it. On certain days, at the right moment this note smells great. Other times it annoys the hell out of me. I also think the base notes of PR are kind of flat. Cannabis Rose by Fresh is in the same category, but delivers a better overall fragrance without trudging down into sad rose territory...like Voleur de Roses by L' Artisan. Plus I cannot imagine reaching for PR in cool/cold weather.
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post #6 of 32
5/9/09 at 12:07pm
Thread Starter 
Always more to explore - this is just it! I've only tried Rose 31 and Vetiver X(?) from Le Labo, and they're quite nice. I almost hopped on for the split of Rose 31 but hadn't given myself enough time to really digest the fragrance enough by the time it was due.

It seems there are lots of Rose 31 fans here - is it the ultimate "man's rose" I wonder?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post

I'm not exactly sure how to describe the note. It's kind of woody-peppery and it's in a couple other Bertrand Duchaufour fragrances, such as Magnolia Romana and Dzongka. I still quite like Paestum Rose; it's great, I just find that note kind of lingers on longer than I'd like it to.

As for not trying Penhaglion's... I haven't tried any Le Labo's, so we're even on that one. I guess that's part of the fun - always more to explore!
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post #7 of 32
5/9/09 at 12:11pm
Thread Starter 
Does Rose 31 offer significant projection on your skin, Mike? I'm all for the compliments!

Yikes! Vinegar acidity? That doesn't sound very nice at all. What is "sad rose territory", if you don't mind my asking? The typical rose water type of rose?

I'll have to put Cannabis Rose on my test list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I prefer Rose 31. It's a compliment whore scent (I must admit). It smells sexier. It wears well in warm and cool weather.

Paestum Rose is a slightly salty rose, with a certain apple-cider-vinegar acidity to it. On certain days, at the right moment this note smells great. Other times it annoys the hell out of me. I also think the base notes of PR are kind of flat. Cannabis Rose by Fresh is in the same category, but delivers a better overall fragrance without trudging down into sad rose territory...like Voleur de Roses by L' Artisan. Plus I cannot imagine reaching for PR in cool/cold weather.
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post #8 of 32
5/9/09 at 12:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyDG View Post

Does Rose 31 offer significant projection on your skin, Mike? I'm all for the compliments!

Yikes! Vinegar acidity? That doesn't sound very nice at all. What is "sad rose territory", if you don't mind my asking? The typical rose water type of rose?

I'll have to put Cannabis Rose on my test list.

Yes, the sillage/diffusion/longevity of Rose 31 is fantastic. I went to a party around Christmastime, and most of the party was outdoors around the backyard pool of my friends home (which you can do, in December, here in Miami). When I followed a bunch of guys out the back French doors that led to the bar and tables, I smelled Rose 31 in the air...unmistakably. Someone was wearing it and I could easily smell it. It has a distinct spice/animalic floral presence and the way it carries off of the skin is quite exceptional.

Not to confuse you: I mentioned 'sad rose' because I think Voleur de Roses smells sad (my personal interpretation). I think Domenico Caraceni does also. However when you look at the notes that are in VdR and CR they are quite alike...however the way that they're blended is like black and white. So different. In fact I will even throw White Patchouli by Tom Ford into the mix. It, Cannabis Rose and Voleur de Roses all share very similar patchouli/rose accords - all done completely differently. Not better, not worse...just different.

More importantly, listen to your nose AnthonyDG.
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post #9 of 32
5/9/09 at 12:40pm
Of the two, I prefer Paestrum Rose. Rose is more like an after-thought in Rose 31. I don't see Domenico Caraceni 1913 in the list you've tried. There is Domenico Caraceni 1913, and then there is everything else!
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post #10 of 32
5/9/09 at 12:50pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Mike!

I definitely detect the spice in Rose 31.. does the sweetness come from notes of musk in there - the animal presence as you've put it? I'm deathly afraid of cloying fragrances or naked florals.

I have faith my nose will change and develop, but Paestum Rose seems a lot less sweet and easier to wear. I only have a bit to sample, so I don't know its longevity/projection - but seems to be quite auspicious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Yes, the sillage/diffusion/longevity of Rose 31 is fantastic. I went to a party around Christmastime, and most of the party was outdoors around the backyard pool of my friends home (which you can do, in December, here in Miami). When I followed a bunch of guys out the back French doors that led to the bar and tables, I smelled Rose 31 in the air...unmistakably. Someone was wearing it and I could easily smell it. It has a distinct spice/animalic floral presence and the way it carries off of the skin is quite exceptional.

Not to confuse you: I mentioned 'sad rose' because I think Voleur de Roses smells sad (my personal interpretation). I think Domenico Caraceni does also. However when you look at the notes that are in VdR and CR they are quite alike...however the way that they're blended is like black and white. So different. In fact I will even throw White Patchouli by Tom Ford into the mix. It, Cannabis Rose and Voleur de Roses all share very similar patchouli/rose accords - all done completely differently. Not better, not worse...just different.

More importantly, listen to your nose AnthonyDG.
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post #11 of 32
5/9/09 at 12:53pm
Thread Starter 
Another one to add! We'll be in touch, Mudassir!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudassir View Post

Of the two, I prefer Paestrum Rose. Rose is more like an after-thought in Rose 31. I don't see Domenico Caraceni 1913 in the list you've tried. There is Domenico Caraceni 1913, and then there is everything else!
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post #12 of 32
5/9/09 at 1:53pm
This is a bit out of the left field, but have you tried YSL Elle? It came across to me as dry woody/peppery rose (although rose note is not listed in the pyramid) and quite unisex, even perhaps masculine. Next time you're at the mall, it may be worth a spritz.
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post #13 of 32
5/9/09 at 3:52pm
Thread Starter 
Never tried it, Kess, but I'll add it to my list. Thanks -

I know what I'll be doing on my vacation - hunting down all these "Test List" fragrances! Sounds like fun.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kess View Post

This is a bit out of the left field, but have you tried YSL Elle? It came across to me as dry woody/peppery rose (although rose note is not listed in the pyramid) and quite unisex, even perhaps masculine. Next time you're at the mall, it may be worth a spritz.
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post #14 of 32
5/9/09 at 4:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyDG View Post

Thanks, Mike!

I definitely detect the spice in Rose 31.. does the sweetness come from notes of musk in there - the animal presence as you've put it? I'm deathly afraid of cloying fragrances or naked florals...

The perfumer used Cetalox Laevo, a synthetic ambergris, which gives it the effect of an animalistic floral.
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post #15 of 32
5/9/09 at 4:32pm
Well, seeing as how I've never tried DC 1913, or Paestum Rose, I can only give my thoughts on rose 31.

Its the sexiest fragrance I own, never ceases to garner compliments.
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post #16 of 32
5/9/09 at 5:18pm
I haven't tried Paestum Rose but am dying to. Chandler Burr gives it a 5 star rating (i think). I have Rose 31, but it's not really a rose scent TBH. It's more of an oud amber scent with the rose evening everything out in the background. My favorite rose scents are Une Rose (which I find very true to life to rose absolute), Nahema (pure candied roses bliss), and Rose de Nuit (a very dark, plummy rose).
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post #17 of 32
5/9/09 at 5:27pm
I had PR and R31. PR was a sweeter bit of rose on me, and had some pepper, but I got the sweetness aspect to be dominant on my skin. R31 had that spice and it overshadowed for a bit the rose, and then the cumin came out.

I'd probably go for the Le Labo since it did project more and lasted a bit more on my skin. VdR on me was raw earth roses and was not anything I wanted. I can see what Mike means by a sad rose, and I did try the Caraceni scent and got the woody aspect of it.

So between PR and R31, my personal preference would be the R31, as it is a bit more unusual with that animal/civet/cumin whatever aspect to it.
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post #18 of 32
5/9/09 at 5:49pm
Rose 31.
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post #19 of 32
5/9/09 at 5:58pm
Between the two, I'd go with Rose 31. PR was pretty unremarkable to me from the sample I had, but Rose 31 is unique and gets me SO much attention.
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post #20 of 32
5/9/09 at 8:13pm
Paestum Rose is an amazing rose scent on my skin. Never fails to get compliments and the blackcurrant accord is beautifully blended.
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post #21 of 32
5/9/09 at 8:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudassir View Post

There is Domenico Caraceni 1913, and then there is everything else!

I completely agree with this statement. DC 1913 smells spirited and bright [read : happy] to me rather than gloomy and sad.
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post #22 of 32
5/9/09 at 8:47pm
I echo MikeP as well about the VdR. It smells of funeral roses budding our of wet earth in a cemetery.
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post #23 of 32
5/9/09 at 10:14pm
I also agree with Mike. Rose 31 is something different and special.
I also love No. 88 for different reasons and prefer both to Paestum Rose. There's something in all of Duchaufour's sompositions that bother me. Not physically, no allergies or anything like that. I mean in the feeling that I get from them. An uneasiness. Sheer but somehow hollow...I wish I could explain better.
I also own and like DC 1913 but find it more understated. No animal in that one.
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post #24 of 32
5/10/09 at 10:40am
I wore Rose 31 out last night and get some VERY enthusiastic compliments, including a "now that's what a MAN should smell like." Why thaaankyou.
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post #25 of 32
5/10/09 at 11:08am
Thread Starter 
I'm looking forward to it - just took the plunge on both Rose 31 and Paestum Rose!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd4t View Post

I wore Rose 31 out last night and get some VERY enthusiastic compliments, including a "now that's what a MAN should smell like." Why thaaankyou.
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post #26 of 32
7/5/09 at 8:45pm
Oh boy, Good choices! You're going to love those.
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post #27 of 32
7/5/09 at 9:24pm
Rose 31. I have both but prefer Rose 31 most days.
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post #28 of 32
7/6/09 at 6:32am
I like PR but I love and much prefer Rose31: it's sexy whereas PR is somehow a bit austere... harder to appreciate.

My all-time favourite rose is FM - Une Rose though
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post #29 of 32
7/6/09 at 6:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amit View Post

I completely agree with this statement. DC 1913 smells spirited and bright [read : happy] to me rather than gloomy and sad.

I love DC. It's my favorite rose scent. At first though, I too found it a bit funereal. Then, I started noticing the cyprus note more and the clouds parted. I like VdR, but once my partner said it smelled like car model glue and when I smelled it with that in mind, I had to agree. So, that kind of ruined VdR for me.
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post #30 of 32
7/6/09 at 8:06am
I wondered if anyone else has noticed the similarity btwn Rose #31 & Agent Provocateur. I put AP on the other night & it was so striking to me. I thought I had on Rose #31.
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post #31 of 32
7/6/09 at 1:05pm
Thread Starter 
I'll need to try this, side by side as you have -

I'm not sure I'm convinced that Rose 31 is worth the money, considering 100ml of Paestum Rose can be had for less than $150 Canadian (including shipping and tax) and Agent Provocateur is about the same or less per ml.

I really would love to try Le Labo's Vanille 44, but the price is absolutely unconscionable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

I wondered if anyone else has noticed the similarity btwn Rose #31 & Agent Provocateur. I put AP on the other night & it was so striking to me. I thought I had on Rose #31.
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post #32 of 32
7/6/09 at 1:07pm
Thread Starter 
Just to update - Rose 31 in its dry-down leaves this sweet patchouli (at least I think that's what it is) that I've found a bit irritating.

Paestum Rose is like red wine and dark roses. I have yet to try L'Artisan VdR, but PR at the moment is what I would choose over Rose 31 - though R31 is slightly easier to wear.
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