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Tabac Blond, Fumerie Turque -> smoke

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Oh dear,

It's my favourite smell, that I need your knowledge about - again.

Do you know, what the ingredient is, that make the phantastic smoke in Vintage Tabac Blond, Habanita or Fumerie Turque? Somebody posted the recipe of Tabac Blond a while ago, but the ingredients are all Bohemian villages to me - so to speak. I want it - concentrated smoke in the bottle.

I still loose sleep about smoke.
post #2 of 8
I don't smell smoke in any of those, but I think there is a leathery-castoreum vibe going on in all three. If you want that amped up times ten, try Ava Luxe's Incense Noir... very smoky and castoreum-heavy, almost shockingly so.
post #3 of 8
Bandit.........I love all these you have mentioned.
post #4 of 8
It might indeed be castoreum that gives you an impression of smoke. The sample of castoreum I tried in the Profumo.it sampling group gave me a very wood-smoky, leathery, and slightly rubbery impression. I didn't think I liked castoreum, but after trying a sample I found that I actually do.
post #5 of 8
From what I've read about leather fragrances, the leather note might have originally been created with styrax and castoreum - Tabac Blond, Knize Ten. In Bandit and Cabochard is Isobutyl Quinoline (described as earthy, rooty, and nutty, echoing certain facets of oakmoss and vetiver). In Habanita I don't get to much leather but a lot of vetiver. I have a small bottle of vetiver essencial oil from Haiti and in the first 2 hours after applying Habanita on my skin I can smell A LOT of it. It has a certain earthy smokiness, different than the ashtray smokiness of Tabac Blond. Luca Turin describe Habanita as a "vetiver vanilla" fragrance. In Knize Ten I don't get the same smoke notes as in TB or H but a lot of castoreum.

According to Perfume Shrine, Tabac Blond contains quinolines too, a family of aromachemicals with a pungent leather and smoke odour. From all here mentioned I prefer the ashtray smokiness of TB.
(I'm not familiar with Fumerie Turque)

See: http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/se...ather%20series
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I don't smell smoke in any of those

Damn, than we are living in two different dimensions.
Fumerie Turque is all about smoke for me and wouldn't it be like that, I couldn't love it. But I suppose I do.

Thank you girls for the ingredients, I gonna check them out over the weekend.

For me there is a big difference between smoke and leather. Leather is Knize Ten or Cuir Mauresque, that funny smell beside all the other things (and I love leather, but I'm hooked by smoke), smoke is Vintage Tabac Blond, Habanita before total dry down and definitly Fumerie Turque. Maybe I'm noseblind, but there is that smoke in my face - so mysterious, sensual and bad woman, so Film Noir - I can't describe it.

To smell nice - as a women at least - is easy in itself, a soap would do. We don't need chocolate or caramel or vanilla to smell nice, do we? To smell like an enigma isn't that easy - that's where perfume enters the stage. Vintage Tabac Blond gave it, but now it's missing. Like Mildred Pierce in the beginning - you don't know, what she is up to, she is just most stylished overdressed at the pier in the fog (smoke?); or Phyllis Dietrichson in Double Indemnity, Laura or Stella as a Fallen Angel. Think about Ingrid Bergman in Notorious or Rita Hayworth as Gilda. I suppose they smell like their hairspray, a cologne and their sweat as they walk through live dangerously, meanwhile smoking cigarettes.

I thought, maybe it's just one ingredient that could give me the femme fatale in Tabac Blond back.

I always can go back to Habanita (which I do regularly) , that's a relieve, but on the other hand Habanita is so sensual, I cannot wear it every day, as it smells like body fluids (good ones) mixed with the cigarette after. Cabochard - at least the Vintage version - turns so dry on me, that it totally lacks the sensuality I'm seeking for and Fumerie Turque can't compare in complexity, it's a one way ticket to a pipe smocking turque family.

But I'm no nose, I'm just a recipient, so don't take me too serious.
post #7 of 8
Bandit, you might want to read these articles that helg wrote on Perfume Shrine, about leather scents (specifically Tabac Blond and the 'cigarette smoke' you mentioned) here and here (where she reference cistus labdanum as providing, ' a leathery backdrop- in cases where a more smokey/ ambery note is required ~such as in Caron Tabac Blond, Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque and Ava Luxe Madame X...')
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
I will, thank you.
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