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The Gourmand for the Gourmand Hater

post #1 of 49
6/23/09 at 4:39pm
Thread Starter 
I've been having terrible trouble finding a gourmand or two to add to my collection and I think it's high time I ask for the help of the community. A little background, I hate A*Men (shocker ) and Pi, find them syrupy and cloying. But I want something in that same spirit. Something sweet, sexy, smooth, I just don't know what to try. Here's what I've tried so far:

Cannabis Santal: By far my favorite so far, and I may end up buying it, I just want to find some other options.

L'Instant Pour Homme Edt: I don't care for the lemon in the top at all, I have a sample of the EDP coming in soon to try though.

Vetiver Oriental: Oh, iris, why oh why do you have to be in this? I don't like iris, there I said it! Otherwise this is beautiful.

Douce Amere: Yuck, smells like hershey kisses.

Borneo 1834: I'm still testing this, but at first it smelled incredibly similar to Straight to Heaven, so I guess the patchouli was really coming out and then later I can't shake the similarities with Fou d'Absinthe, I can't be the only one to smell the similarities can I? It was also incredibly strong, and I'm hoping that the nausea that came on was due to me feeling a little ill before putting it on.

Il Profumo Chocolat Amere: I like it, but there is a dirty note that keeps popping it's head in and out of it that has ruined it for me.

Aomassi: Way too much caramel, completely overpowering everything else.

Come on guys, there has to be some hope?
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post #2 of 49
6/23/09 at 4:46pm
Au Masculin- try it. Seriously.
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post #3 of 49
6/23/09 at 4:59pm
Have you tried Bond No. 9 New Haarlem?

Rochas Man?
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post #4 of 49
6/23/09 at 5:00pm
Before things got way too literal there was Guerlain and vanillin. I can not understand why anyone wants to smell like chocolate. Viva le Shalimar!
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post #5 of 49
6/23/09 at 5:18pm
The first one to come to my mind when I read the title of the thread was the first one you mention, Cannabis Santal.

Another one you may want to try is Animale Animale for Men. It is nowhere near as sweet and cloying as A*Men, it doesn't have any caramel, it is much more subtle. And it can be found cheap.
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post #6 of 49
6/23/09 at 5:39pm
Thread Starter 
Great recs so far guys. I made a mistake, I guess I have tried more gourmands then I thought. I have tried New Haarlem but a while ago, I have a sample lying around somewhere.
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post #7 of 49
6/23/09 at 5:43pm
New Haarlem is one of my favs. Maybe give that one another try.
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post #8 of 49
6/23/09 at 5:53pm
If possible; sample Hermes Ambre Narguile
and did you sample Dior Homme?

Good luck!
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post #9 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbert View Post

If possible; sample Hermes Ambre Narguile
and did you sample Dior Homme?

Good luck!

Yep, tried Dior Homme. It doesn't really diffuse and shift enough for me. Sort of just sits there and smells the same, so I find it got boring during extended wear. I'll put Amber Narguile on the to try list.
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post #10 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:29pm
Here you go. if you want something in the same mood as A men but better .http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...mo/Madera.html
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post #11 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:30pm
New Haarlem by Bond No. 9.
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post #12 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmax View Post

Here you go. if you want something in the same mood as A men but better .http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...mo/Madera.html

Cmax, you've tried this? I don't see chocolate listed, isn't that basically what A men is all about. Either way it's worth a try.

Some other ones I'm looking at are Coromandel and Vetiver Tonka. Any opinions on these?
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post #13 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:32pm
For a really nice gourmand that is neither too sweet or cloying try Omnia Ambra. This has almond, orange, vanilla on a bed of a very nice amber with just the slightest touch of smokiness in the drydown. It is sweet, sexy and very smooth.

Another Omnia is Madera but it might just be a touch too sweet for your liking but could be worth trying. I get a big hit of caramel out of this.
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post #14 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:32pm
I agree with the Hermessence Ambre Narguile recommendation - however IMO it is like a more complex, refined version of Cannabis Santal. So, if you like CS, why not just get that and save the $?

Another you should try: Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford.
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post #15 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:32pm
Thread Starter 
Haha, it looks like New Haarlem is a big favorite.
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post #16 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by surreality View Post

For a really nice gourmand that is neither too sweet or cloying try Omnia Ambra. This has almond, orange, vanilla on a bed of a very nice amber with just the slightest touch of smokiness in the drydown. It is sweet, sexy and very smooth.

Another Omnia is Madera but it might just be a touch too sweet for your liking but could be worth trying.

Ok, that goes on the ever expanding list lol. The only problem is I am normally not a fan of amber being spotlighted. I'm not a fan of it's resinous qualities.
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post #17 of 49
6/23/09 at 6:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I agree with the Hermessence Ambre Narguile recommendation - however IMO it is like a more complex, refined version of Cannabis Santal. So, if you like CS, why not just get that and save the $?

Another you should try: Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford.

Thanks Mike! It can't hurt to try it can it? I have a sample of Tobacco Vanille, and you're right, I LOVE the vanilla in it. But I'd rather not have the tobacco. To me, or at least on me, the tobacco overpowers the vanilla, it's like 70% tobacco and 30% vanilla.
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post #18 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:01pm
Micallef Note Vanillee
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post #19 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:11pm
Some "on the cusp" of gourmands that I love but aren't necessarily gourmands are:

Malle Musc Ravageur
Tom Ford Amber Absolute (lots of rich vanilla)
Montale Blue Amber, Red Aoud

hope that helps
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post #20 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:11pm
I hate gourmands that have too much lavender or that are too sharp, like A*Men. I suggest Jacomo Silver ("for men"), which is dominated by coffee, plum, and amber, or Amour de Cacao, if you want a chocolate frag (it's got strong vanilla too, but it's very soft - no "hard edges"). Both are very reasonably priced too. If you want something powdery, there's FUBU Plush for men (amaretto, orris, sandalwood amber - very well blended and soft, though strong).
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post #21 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

Cmax, you've tried this? I don't see chocolate listed, isn't that basically what A men is all about. Either way it's worth a try.

Some other ones I'm looking at are Coromandel and Vetiver Tonka. Any opinions on these?

I tried it and love it. A more complex and lighter A men without the tar note, i wanted a full bottle but just cant make room right now with A men , Rochas , HM AND many other gourmand sitting in my wardrobe. But if i had discovered this first the others want be there.
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post #22 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

Haha, it looks like New Haarlem is a big favorite.

One good thing about New Haarlem is that you won't likely find it to be too sweet.
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post #23 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

Cmax, you've tried this? I don't see chocolate listed, isn't that basically what A men is all about. Either way it's worth a try.

Some other ones I'm looking at are Coromandel and Vetiver Tonka. Any opinions on these?

I own both of these and find them laid back comfort scents that I can wear in a dressed up mode or weekends - discrete quality! Light application lasts a surprisingly long time for me. I don't think of them as overtly 'gourmand' (in the sense that Lutens Arabie or Vanille are gourmand) but they have that comfort factor I can use sometimes. I like both the Lutens, BTW, even though they are pretty full on!
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post #24 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:46pm
My first thought for a goumand hater was L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme, but apparently it's not your cup of tea. Pity.
L'Artisan is overflowing with gourmands (and no, I don't really detect any similarities between B1834 and Fou d'Absinthe). Is Passage d'Enfer classified as a gourmand? Mechant Loup?
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post #25 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:54pm
Also, if you want something that is very food-like and natural, go to jojoelle.com and take a look at their huge list. I only tried gingerbread marshmallow (which they may not make any more), and it was exactly what it should have been, as well as being very, very strong.
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post #26 of 49
6/23/09 at 7:56pm
Oh i forgot about this one, even better than Madera . I promise you will like this one. http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/detai...ection=1&rv=on This is what i was thinking about when i said A men , although Madera is lovely this is twice as better.
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post #27 of 49
6/23/09 at 8:26pm
Try "The parfum" by Chas. Jourdan. Tell me what you think please.
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post #28 of 49
6/23/09 at 9:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

Ok, that goes on the ever expanding list lol. The only problem is I am normally not a fan of amber being spotlighted. I'm not a fan of it's resinous qualities.

Aki, by Tann Rokka. Guessing from my notes on the sample: "Toasted vanilla custard. Strong, sweet, rich." I'd say the amber didn't come across as resinous.

Angelo di Fiume, by Linari. "Sugar cookies and eggnog"


Both seemed to be good fragrances, but gourmands aren't something I currently look for.
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post #29 of 49
6/23/09 at 9:02pm
I found The Parfum (Jourdan) to transcend a simple gourmand classification. It's excellent, but is it what someone who seeks a gourmand is looking for? It's not especially food-like, is it?
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post #30 of 49
6/24/09 at 12:38am
Although not an "explicit gourmand" Baldessarini Ambre has some lavish, almost gourmand notes beyond all the leathery-animalic dominant, which might work good. So has, up to a certain point, Obsession Night for men, in a very different way, Azzaro Visit - which is not a gourmand, but a spicy scent, yet with so much spice, it has certain "edible" undertones and also the the Blue Mediterraneo -range by ADP, again not a full-scale gourmand, but with quite a few nearly gourmand fruity and citric touches (citric gourmand? sounds highly unlikely, but these whole range seems to get oddly close to the concept).
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post #31 of 49
6/24/09 at 12:42am
I have to agree with a lot of the above.
Ambre Narguilé, definitely.
Lotsa Artisans, definitely (try Méchant Loup for licorice, Tea for Two for smokey honeyed tea, Safran Troublant for saffron buns, Jour de Fête for almond pastry)

I see you didn't like Aomassai - have you sat it out or did you wash it off? 'Cause once the worst of the caramel disappears, it's a beautiful and not overly sweet gourmand.
Re: Coromandel; I think you should like it. It seems you enjoy sweet patchoulis, and it's one of the most delicate renditions I've tried.

The small niche perfumer Possets do many excellent gourmands (Gingerbread Whorehouse, Gingerbread Crackhouse, Perpetual Motion Machine and Lamp Black being my favourites)
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post #32 of 49
6/24/09 at 3:20am
Three wonderful gourmand scents are: Pure Coffee, Ambre Narguile and Eau de Iles.

I also hate A*Men and like you find it too sweet and cloying. But, the newly issued A*Men Pure Coffee seems to correct all the things I don't like about the original. It is less sweet and not cloying at all. The patchouli is less prominent and the vetiver is stronger. This is the most refreshing gourmand scent I have tried. In fact both of the new Mugler flankers to A*Men are much better than the original: Pure Coffee and Pure Malt. Pure Malt leans towards a leather/scotch whiskey gourmand while Pure Coffee is more to the coffee/caramel incense notes.

Ambre Narguile is an outstanding gourmand scent that is sort of like a raisen nut cake / pipe smoke / deep amber scent. Definitely worth a try for a fall gourmand. A classic.

Eau de Iles from MPG is a smokey coffee woods scent that has a gourmand touch to it. Highly recomended. This is much woodier, smokier and more masculine all around than the Pure Coffee scent above but holds up really well in the gourmand category.
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post #33 of 49
6/24/09 at 7:02am
One possible outcome of your survey is that gourmands are not for you. And if that is the case, that is okay too.
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post #34 of 49
6/24/09 at 7:13am
I already mentioned some (Blue Amber, Amber Absolute, Red Aoud, and Musc Ravageur)

But today I was thinking about it more and thought of a couple more "on the cusp" gourmands you might like and they include immortelle:

Histoire de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade (chocolate, leather, immortelle, amazing!)
Dior Eau Noir
Annick Goutal Sables

I know they aren't gourmands but they have that sensation without being dessert on the skin. I also think most ambers can be thought of this way because they are often paired with vanilla... Maybe even Ambre Sultan could be a fence sitting gourmand as well as a few other Lutens.

p.s. great recommendations so far! Happy sampling
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post #35 of 49
6/24/09 at 7:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

I can not understand why anyone wants to smell like chocolate

You dont understand how a person may want to smell like smething that beautiful women the world over induldge in, yet understand vanilla and other random spices people don't often come into contact with often, based on your wardrobe.
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post #36 of 49
6/24/09 at 7:39am
PG Cuir Venenum: a gourmand leather. Incredible sweet rye and wheat that, as it evolves, loses its sweet edge and gains in smokiness and dryness.
La Baiser du Dragon: although this is technically an oriental, you could easily classify this as a gourmand. Bitter, bitter almond dipped in some kind of syrup. One of my all-time favorite scents.
Angelique Noire: bitter green start, then molds into the most delicious vanilla this side of Shalimar!
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post #37 of 49
6/24/09 at 8:12am
Firstly, I want to agree with the Rochas Man, New Haarlem, and Lolita Lempicka recommendations, those three are some of my favs.

For an "almost" gourmand (which is what I would recommend for a gourmand hater) try Nasomatto Absinthe. Don't let the name fool you, this scent's more about almonds but with a caramel touch.
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post #38 of 49
6/24/09 at 8:40am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hob Dobson View Post

Aki, by Tann Rokka. Guessing from my notes on the sample: "Toasted vanilla custard. Strong, sweet, rich." I'd say the amber didn't come across as resinous.

Angelo di Fiume, by Linari. "Sugar cookies and eggnog"


Both seemed to be good fragrances, but gourmands aren't something I currently look for.

I'm really looking forward to trying the Linari scents. They are supposed to be being carried at Lucky scent later this summer.
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post #39 of 49
6/24/09 at 8:59am
IMO Armani Diamonds is a light fresh gourmand that would be good for getting into this genre of frags. Shame on its poor strength though.
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post #40 of 49
6/24/09 at 9:12am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentsitivity View Post

One possible outcome of your survey is that gourmands are not for you. And if that is the case, that is okay too.

Actually, I've found the opposite. Years ago, I hated them, but I've really grown to appreciate them. Something about some of the designer gourmands seem to sweet and I think I have pinpointed at least one cuplrit, that incredibly strong synthetic lavender note which I dislike in A men and Le Male.
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post #41 of 49
6/24/09 at 9:14am
Thread Starter 
One other, that just doesn't feel like a gourmand but I have seen sometimes classified as such, that I absolutely love is Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere 18.
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post #42 of 49
6/24/09 at 10:10am
Several great suggestions so far. I like Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille. It has one accord that reminds me of freshly baked yeast rolls and another accord that reminds me of dusty wooden bookshelves in an old library. I would likely own a bottle if I could find one.
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post #43 of 49
6/24/09 at 11:38am
I'd give a strong vote for Hanae Mori's HM. It's technically considered a gourmand, but it's never really reminded me of a gourmand. Maybe it's the gourmand for you?
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post #44 of 49
6/24/09 at 12:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sokkou View Post

You dont understand how a person may want to smell like smething that beautiful women the world over induldge in, yet understand vanilla and other random spices people don't often come into contact with often, based on your wardrobe.

Your taking his comment too seriously, Sokkou. Gourmands as we now know it is a new phenomenon since 1992 (?) when Angel came out. Things have gone a bit literal and can see why someone with more exquisite taste would remark on that.

PS : I just blind bought Animale Animale, so I will be stinking like chocolate very soon
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post #45 of 49
6/24/09 at 12:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

Some other ones I'm looking at are Coromandel and Vetiver Tonka. Any opinions on these?

Vetiver Tonka is very nice, and I think it definitely won't be cloyingly sweet, but it may not be gourmand enough for the goal - I definitely don't classify it as a gourmand in my own mental categories. (On the other hand, if you don't usually like gourmand, that may be all the more reason to try it.)

Crayfish
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post #46 of 49
6/24/09 at 1:50pm
Thread Starter 
How about Bond no. 9 Nuits de Noho?
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post #47 of 49
6/24/09 at 8:28pm
Have you tried Gourmand Coquin from Guerlain? I am in love with it, and I am not into gourmands.
Also try Hostoires de Parfums Casanova (is it 1726?)
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post #48 of 49
6/24/09 at 8:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by veuve amiot View Post

try Méchant Loup for licorice

Really? I get honey and hazelnuts from Mechant Loup - no hint of licorice at all. For licorice (anise) I'd say Rive Gauche and L'Occitane's Eau de Badian have very prominent anise notes. I don't think of either of those as gourmands, though.
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post #49 of 49
6/24/09 at 9:00pm
Shinhito might be on to something with HM. I always thought of it as more floral, but that might what you need. Still try Au Masculin though.
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