All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, July 4, 2009 ★★★ GREENS

Hot diggity!!! My day has come!

Ooh the excitement! I'm not around on SnSS (away for a weekend in Devon with my Dad and family) but am excited for Green day. Hoping my Vol de Nuit will be here in time, but otherwise will have to try and sort out No19 and Cristalle in time.

Really looking forward to this one. I have multiple green(ish) scents that would all do nicely, including a few not mentioned yet...

Guerlain Homme
L'Artisan Fleur de Liane
Varvatos Artisan
Annick Goutal Matin d'Orage
Axe Kilo Body Spray

Woo-hoo!

I see a lot of crossover with chypres, that makes sense since chypres often have 'green' notes and accords. I think I'll break out something special for this Sat.

I love the SnS saturdays when it's a category I don't wear much and don't know enough about. Greens is one of them. This is the category I always associate with Quarry, who is in lots of ways my scent-opposite (though she's one of my best biddies on the site). Yet I have found we share a massive love of Molinard de Molinard so I will trust her judgement and will be wearing something amazing that she sent me: Demeter Firefly (and not just because I loved the tv show...).

So good to have these days. I love thinking.

I agree, Wordbird!

I've said it several times in my SnS posts that I like pushing myself, wearing something that I normally wouldn't. More often than not, I'm surprised with the results and enjoy the challenge. This month is no exception, because I don't wear much green stuff (at least in the traditional sense). But I have a few options this time that I'm thinking over ...

It will be fun!

Firefly was the best. (Haven't sniffed the scent though).

Hoo boy, providing I remember to join in and don't get disoriented with other things, I'll have plenty to choose from for this. Would have put Miller Harris Terre de Bois in this category too, and maybe even AG Le Chevrefeuille (due to its flower-stem note). But Mmmmmmandragore is calling my name. Might even wear it tomorrow. That's one lovely beastie.

This is your big chance to get a shot of Lauder 'Azuree' You won't be sorry!

LEAF it to YEW, Quarry, Queen of GREEN, to post a VERTually endless list of choices. This will be an inFERNally difficult task! I'm so glad that we have a little THYME left to ROOT around and look FIR something beauTEAful to wear!

:toppie:
So clever!

I know. Sorry. I'm in a mood.

A GREEN mood!

That's a helpful list, Quarry, thanks! Hmm...what to wear?

I will be wearing the evergreen Geoffrey Beene Bowling Green as I did as SotD and probably Guerlain Eau de Guerlain also..

Many thanks for the fabulous list, Quarry!

My first time participating but I won't be at home July 4th .I'll no doubt be wearing Vol De Nuit .
Quarry- your list was a godsend.

Woohoo! Green! Waving my pom-poms, over here! Lessee, Philosykos or Moroccan Mint Tea... or one of my samps? *Ponder, ponder*

The puns made me groan and laugh out loud at the same time, Haunani!
Love language nerdery.

ooooh this post makes me want Nanadebary Green even more *sigh*

but my vintage Vent Vert parfum & Creed Aubepine Acacia have arrived just in time

not to mention my Eau de Camille.....of course i also love my 2nd formulation Vent Vert parfum & edt.....

hm, green? where's Odysseusm? hey Ody!

I just put on Murasaki and looked it up on Perfume Intelligence where it is listed as a fresh GREEN FLORAL.

2 excellent contemporary feminine green scents are:

L'Artisan Fleur Di Liane (delicious aquatic leafy green floral)
Bond no.9 Gramercy Park (sweet aromatic leafy green scent)

Another excellent feminine-unisex Green-floral-gourmand, that I think many are unaware of (one I find particularly delicious on the dry down):

Kiehl's Forest Rain (wet leafy scent that progresses into spring floral dries to long-lasting almond extract scent, delicious)

Of course, if you check my warddrobe, you'll see my favorite masculine/unisex green scents.

I'm just about salivating from reading all these descriptions. Dullah, I'm so glad that you are fond of Fleur de Liane. It's a favorite of mine. The descriptions I'm reading for CDG Calamus and Kiehl's Forest Rain are very intriguing. I'm going to have to try them!

Just checked out Quarry's fabulous list -- thank you, Quarry!

Looking forward to Green Saturday, y'all. . . .

Good call! I sent him a PM with a link to this thread. Let's hope he sees this thread in time!

So I'm a day early....

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Notes: Black Currant Bud Absolute, Galbanum Absolute, Bergamot Absolute, Aerin's Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Estée's Ylang Ylang Absolute, Estée's Jasmine Absolute, Violet, Orange Flower Absolute, Orris, Patchouli Heart Absolute, Vetiver Absolute, White Moss Mist Absolute (an Estée Lauder exclusive)

The notes list is a green floral chypre lover's dream, and this fragrance truly delivers. The top notes start with bright citrus and galbanum, a combination of stem and fruit. The citrus is not especially juicy, rather, it gives a fresh, sunny effect. The galbanum is not overly bitter or strong, and has somewhat of a grassy smell. There is a urinous edge to the top notes, probably from the black currant bud. It does not offend, though, and ends up being more of a support note to evoke the softly indolic florals to come. Soon after application, a Diorella-like overripe melon note emerges. The meaty quality of the melon note is quite a bit more subdued than in Diorella, and is also not nearly as deep. Along with the overripe melon, a beautiful star jasmine comes forth. I am not sure I have ever smelled a Jasmine fragrance that truly captures the scent of the blossoms from a living star jasmine plant, so I find this quality extremely enticing. Star jasmine has a heavenly odor, and to capture it in a fragrance that can be enjoyed even when the blossoms are out of season is impressive.

The mid notes carry the overripe fruit and jasmine, and are joined by some moss and powder. This is a lovely direction for the fragrance to take as the powder note brings a little bit of sweetness to the already ethereal greens and white florals. I imagine there must be some vanilla here, although it is not listed. The Jasmine stays heady but fresh, and never takes on a rotten tone as some jasmine absolutes do. The drydown is not overly herbal, in fact, I can't really discern any vetiver per se. To my nose, the base seems to be about orris, subtle moss, vanilla and maybe some light resins such as benzoin. Projection is moderate, and longevity is good--a liberal morning application lasted well into the afternoon, and the scent lasted 24 hours on paper. This fragrance is a must try for fans of Chanel Cristalle, Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'une Fete, L de Lubin, Dior Eau Sauvage and already mentioned, Diorella. While it does not capture my heart in the same way that Le Temps d'une Fete or Diorella does, I find that JWM outperforms Cristalle EDT/EDP and Eau Sauvage for longevity. Compositionally it develops with grace and ease, unlike the re-release of L de Lubin.

Asha, is this current formula or vintage?

Kumquat--it is the newest EL release. Here is a link:

http://www.esteelauder.com/product/m...ORY_ID=CAT1432

Ah ha, I was thinking of the first Private Collection. This could get confusing!

Lubin L de Lubin (re-release)

Notes: Sicilian Lemon, Calabrian Bergamot, white Gardenia, black pepper, ylang ylang, Egyptian Jasmine, May rose, iris and lily, cloves, Tonka bean, Rosewood, Patchouli, Mysore Sandalwood, Heliotrope, Vanilla and Musk (from luckyscent.com)

The first time I tried L de Lubin, I thought I had stumbled across a cleaner, more modernized version of Dior Diorella. Immediately after spraying, LdL has a plastic and peppery hairspray note. Thankfully this fades fast, but there are times when I get the impression of plastic. Thankfully, LdL mostly goes on with juicy lemon, perfect in that it does not seem like an edible lemon dessert or any kind of furniture polish. In the top notes there are also some slightly sweet white florals, subtle peppery spice and a hint of vanilla. It is quite gorgeous when first applied (after the alcohol dries), and even has that Diorella meaty melon note. LdL also has some resemblance to the simultaneously dry-sweet lemon-vanilla accord from Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC. The spices add an interesting zing without being heavy--they complement the citrus notes and add some continuity as the fruity lemon fades.

The top and mid development lasts around 40-60 minutes, and then LdL becomes much less compelling. The drydown is nothing special--vanilla, non-descript musk, some tart synthetic fruit notes (must be the Heliotrope) and some lightly lingering mixed florals. At this point, it smells so much like a common designer fragrance that I completely lose interest. Where did all the good stuff go? Needless to say, while there is hardly anything offensive about the base notes of LdL, the best parts of this fragrance do not last nearly long enough.

Geez guys, I won't be around tomorrow, but will be in Safari to start, then will test Calamus on one arm in the afternoon, and Premier Figuier Extreme on the other. That about covers bases for me I think. Maybe do Ivoire for bedtime.....Have fun everyone! Can't wait to read in on Monday. :wave:

Sinfonia di Note Saveur d'Artichaut EDP

Notes: bergamot, aromatic notes, basil, moss, artemisia, wood notes (from luckyscent.com)

Saveur d'Artichaut starts very green and soapy, and more along the lines of a refreshing EDT or cologne splash rather than an EDP. The green notes are mostly herbal--basil, artemisia/wormwood and perhaps some lavender or rosemary. The licorice-like notes of the artemisia are dry and woody, more like the aromatic leaves and stems of the artemisia plant. The soapy note fades rather quickly, although remains as a low buzz behind the herbal melange. There is something warming this fragrance a little--perhaps some spices such as pepper or coriander. The herbal stage is really inviting, and unfortunately develops much too quickly, even on paper. In the mid development, Sd'A takes on some earthy tones such as moss, non-descript woods and a sweet ambery musk. The basil becomes much less bright, mellowing to be more juicy or resin-like, and the billowy artemisia helps to keep the whole composition soft and diaphanous. In the drydown, there are also some faint leather and nutty chypre-like notes. I find Sd'A to be a quiet, refreshing and pleasing scent. I am not swept away by fuss and thunder, rather I am enveloped in an ephemeral cloud of subtle garden aromas. It is a bit disappointing that the longevity is so short, and unfortunately, the drydown is not terribly original. Overall, I am left wanting much more.

I'm starting the day in the beautiful Mandragore (and feel as though I'm cheating because I can't really say much more about this scent - it's a great, fresh citrus/ginger/crisp sort of thing, seems to suit me well, seems to uplift spirits and be particularly wonderful, like a tonic, in hot, muggy weather).

However, I do have a sample of OJ Champaca, which I have already dabbed on before and may crack open again for a sniff & speak later today.

This is terrific, certainly a subject near and dear to my heart.
Today I am in Rome, so I spritzed a Roman acquisition -- V Victor. Victor is so available here, and so hard to find in North America (apart from acqua di selva). I also bought Fresco, to complete my triumvirate of Silvestre, V and Fresco. They are all in green bottles. V Victor is a citrusy green scent, kind of soapy. Fresco has some affinities with Silvestre, a fresher version of that majestic powerhouse.
the weather is more than 30 with high humidity so light is the way to go. Tonight, after a siesta, I will splash a little travelling Sisley Eau de Campagne, that is certainly a very green scent.
Ciao from Roma!

I am in Geoffrey Beene Bowling Green this morning. Just a huge green opening that stops you dead in your tracks and demands immediate and full attention. Lemon and Bergamot team up to give a citrus blast that cannot be denied. Later Pine, Cinnamon and Cardamom appear along with a now continuous strong citrus background well into the woodsy Moss and Cedar prominent basenotes. All in all a delicious ride in the Green Machine that seems to last on me for about 6+ hours.

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Asha's commentary is absolutely SUPERB! (Truly one of her most thoughtful reviews to date! ) So as far as my own personal opinion goes: Jasmine White Moss strikes me as a modern take on Diorella. Of course I adore the jasmine here, and the vibrant lemony green opening simply sparkles! The greens in the dry down hold onto it's freshness, preventing this fine frag from becoming too wooded or heavy...many thanks to An_Oud_Girl for providing me with this gorgeous floral green chypre sample! She's right, I love it! I want a bottle of my very own.

Taolady, Anthousa Fig & Vetiver is so unappreciated! such a creamy & nose tingling fig. i adore this one- sadly my daughter appropriated this one, i would love to stumble upon another bottle!

i did test EL Jasmine White Moss this past week....and was sadly disappointed. on me it was Chanel Cristalle with a weird floral note. side by side testing with EL on one arm & Cristalle on the other....and getting random SAs to sniff while i shopped- at first they thought it was the same scent, then a slightly wrinkled nose at the EL and comments about the arm with Cristalle were "this one is prettier" "this one sparkles"....i gave my sample of the EL to my friend, hopefully it will work on her!

i was going to wear Creed Aubepine Acacia but its a cool breezy day, better suited to my Vent Vert edt, perhaps with a dab or two of VV parfum.

Green frags are not usually my thing but as Shades points out, SnS days are a nice opportunity to venture from the tried and true. Watch out, I'm goin' in!

My pick today is Diptyque L'Ombre dans L'eau. This has a fresh, tangy, almost bitter green right up top which is soon joined by a jammy rose that smooths and softens the austerity of the greenness. The official notes are listed simply as blackcurrant leaves and rose, but after about an hour or so I am also getting a nice bit of musk and I think some ambergris as well. The overall effect is one of walking in a rose garden after a sudden shower on a cool summer evening, green leaves crushed underfoot releasing their scent to mingle with that of damp roses, their petals beaded with raindrops. This is a quite charming fragrance and, truth be told, a rather refreshing change of pace for this staunch oriental wearer.

I'm starting the day with two greenies I've wanted to sample (thank you to those who shared them with me!). On the right hand, Miller et Bertaux Green, Green, Green, & Green. On the left hand, Comme des Garcons Series 1 Leaves: Lily.

The Green X 4 is too unrelentingly green for me. I find myself wanting a little earth, floral, or even fruit in the mix. I'm learning that I need a little (just a touch!) of sweetness with my green, or it feels out of balance for me.

The CdG Lily, on the other hand, is perfectly Goldilocks on me. Just right!
However, though it's pretty and comfortable to wear, I don't find it particularly compelling.

Greenday

wearing my recently repurchased vibrant Cristalle on my left arm and my aldehydic green Calandre on my right

Nice reading so far everyone!

Well, I have already spent my day in a pretty green scent (L'Artisan L'Été en Douce), but I will now join you all in one of my favorite greens. This is Annick Goutal's Le Chèvrefeuille, part of their soliflore line that focuses on single notes.

Le Chèvrefeuille to me embodies dewy summer mornings when the sun is rising, nature awakens and the temperature is perfect. Its honeysuckle is tender and not really a classic floral note, in that it is joined by the stem and some citrus to make it more bright and grassy. Although it's a light scent I find the longevity quite okay.

Sometimes fragrances with green notes can be a bit sharp or turn sour but that isn't the case here. The juice slowly becomes a little sweeter but doesn't lose its spark. Le Chèvrefeuille is a happy, very natural smelling scent and I'm sure quality ingredients were used, in keeping with Goutal's tradition. On hot days like we have here today it is a joy to refresh yourself in this and remember the more early and delicate moments of summer.

Chanel No 19 edt is my green choice today!

From Quarry's most excellent list, I'll take Yves Rocher Fraîcheur Végétale de Bambou.

Top Notes: Green tea, Cypress
Middle Notes: Peppermint, Honeysuckle
Base Notes: Bamboo

Nothing earth-shattering here, but it's a very clean summer scent. I usually comment that it reminds me of a nice shampoo, which is a positive association for me, but may not be for others.

Hi all!

I've been having a surprisingly hard time picking a green for today, so I'm doing different morning and afternoon scents. My SOTM is Elizabeth W Leaves.



Honestly, this is a bit more floral than green, a really nice mix of violet and rose with a solid green leafiness backing it up. Cedar and amber are the base and contribute to a nice smelling-the-whole-plant-not-just-the-flowers vibe.

The top is remarkably similar to Lutens Sa Majestie Le Rose (spelling?). You could do waaaaaayyy worse for $30...

(In honor of full disclosure, I should admit that I'm wearing the room spray , but it's just a watered down version of the actual parfum, so the notes are the same....)

So far today, I'm wearing Pucci Vivara...



It's sweet white flowers on a bed of crisp green galbanum, warm and sunny like a summer day. I love this fragrance.

And oh my gosh, guys, I am dying to try Private Collection Jasmine & White Moss! I hope my Nordies over here carries it.

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte EDT

Notes: honeysuckle accord, magnolia, lemon, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, abstract white flowers (from NowSmellThis)

On first application, Cristalle Eau Verte has a blend of citrus notes, orange, grapefruit and bergamot, spiked with a bit of pepper. After the juice dries, it seems more watery without being ozonic or aquatic. There is some vague soapyness which lends a bitter tinge, and overall the impression is clean and bright, almost like a traditional Eau de Cologne. It is indeed "fresh" in the sense that the watery quality combines with the soapyness to give a just washed effect. Most of the citrus accord (except for what now seems to be lemon) fades rather quickly as the white florals develop. The fresh soapyness is still going strong, and unfortunately is a bit too reminiscent of household products. In fact, this accord gets a bit sickening in the middle development--lemon, soap and some kind of Fresh Breeze type room spray comes to mind. The florals are really overwhelmed by this "fresh" accord, so much so that I can barely even detect a faint bouquet, let alone individual floral notes. The drydown is great, though, and seems to be the base accord from Chanel's own Bel Respiro--a lovely musk and some lingering herbal notes. Longevity is short and projection is extremely mild--CEV becomes almost a skin scent within 30 minutes. If I were to choose, I'd skip this one all together and get Bel Respiro.


Chanel Bel Respiro EDT

Notes: crushed leaves, rosemary, thyme, rose, lilac, hyacinth, green tea, aromatic grasses, myrrh, leather (from NowSmellThis)

Bel Respiro starts with bergamot, pepper, rosemary, lavender, galbanum, faint powdery vanilla or tonka and soap. I am impressed at the relative complexity right out of the gate--Bel Respiro's top notes have a lovely balance, green and refreshing. Any potential harshness the herbs might take on is kept in check and tempered with some mild sweetness from the vanilla, and the soapy note stays staunchly in the background (which in my opinion is where it belongs). As the herbal notes expand and thin out, the florals and vanilla become more apparent. Still, the herbs lend a lovely green background to the floral blend, giving the impression of a well tended garden. To be sure, Chanel's interpretation of a garden does not involve dirt, compost, vegetables or any other earthy garden delights. What comes across in BR is the refinement of the aromatic foliage and blossoms--fruits of the garden after all the gardeners have gone home. The florals are blended, so it is difficult to discern between varietals, although to my nose a soft and subtle rose is in the mix. The base is a very nice (read "not cheap") sweet ambery musk, vanilla and faint herbs. BR is a joy to experience, although it develops much too quickly on skin. Development can be slowed a bit when applied to paper or cloth. The sillage is not strong, as to be expected with an EDT. Despite a short development, this one is worth a try, and maybe also a full bottle.

PdN Le Temps d'une Fete for me just now, but reading kumquat's post kicked in an Ormonde Woman craving that I will satisfy later on today.

Le Temps d'une Fete -- where do I begin?

(Courtesy the BN directory) Top Notes: Galbanum, Lentisc, Opoponax, Oakmoss; Middle Notes: Narcissus, Hyacinth, Daffodil, Styrax; Base Notes: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, animalic notes

The top notes in this give off a cold but still approachable green sheen even after the scent makes contact with my skin. After about 15 minutes on my skin, Le Temps d'une Fete takes on a creamy aspect balanced with a ton of flowers and greenery -- but more in the manner of standing near a garden, not in it. I think the oakmoss really steps forward in the aftermath of the scent, giving it a beautiful gravitas. I always get at least a good twelve hours of wearing time, no matter the weather, and in very hot weather (such as now) it can surprisingly be a bit overpowering (for me). All in all, though, an exquisite perfume.

Leesee, that sounds lovely. And Kumquat, your evocative description of OJ Woman makes me crave it, too. Wish my sample weren't several hundred miles away right now!

I did pack my sample of the oddball mix of green beans & violets that is

The Unicorn Spell
by LesNez (2006)

I have switched to this one for the rest of the day. On me, The Unicorn Spell starts exactly like very fresh raw string beans. Snap and sniff and you are there! After a few minutes, it's violets -- I think I smell violet leaf AND violet flowers -- set in a woody background. For me this fragrance is not wearable enough to warrant a bottle purchase, but it's pretty and a lot of fun! And sometimes pretty & fun is just the ticket!

L'Artisan Fou d'Absinthe

Notes: absinthe, star anise, dry pine, cistus, angelica flower, blackcurrant buds, clove, ginger, nutmeg, patchouli, pepper, pine needles, fir balsam (from luckyscent.com)

When I first apply Fou d'Absinthe, I smell mint, menthol, spices such as clove, rosemary, artemisia, pine and aromatic woods. The opening is very compelling--refreshing and bracing, although the herbs are heavily aromatic and a bit gruff. The overall impression is a mixture of conifer forest green and a mediterranean herb garden. The edginess of the conifer and herbal notes ease as the fragrance develops, and this allows the absinthe note to come out more--the fragrance becomes less "prickly" and more soft, with billowy wormwood wafts sharpened slightly with some anise to enhance the licorice-like effect. Eventually, Fd'A starts to smell a bit like traditional barbershop fragrance and more as I would expect from a fougere. Mixed spices start to take over the greenery--ginger, pepper, nutmeg, and a touch of clove. In the late middle development, Fd'A becomes more woody, along the lines of aromatic conifers such as spruce or pine, mixed with needles and cones from the respective trees. The artemisia stays constant throughout, and compliments the conifer notes very well. The aromatic woods extend to the drydown which is mostly a slightly sweet musk base. The drydown is not terribly impressive nor particularly unique. The best parts of Fou d'Absinthe are in the top and mid development, but there is nothing about the drydown that is offputting. It simply becomes a bit boring at the end, although I find it to be a rather solid fragrance composition overall.

I took out a very special decant - Guerlain Sous le Vent - special because I love it and never seem to have $280 to buy it. Anyway, there are many different note lists for SLV. This is Mr.Guerlain's:

Top: bergamot, lavender, tarragon
Mid: jasmine, carnation, green notes
Base: iris, oakmoss, woody notes, forest notes

I've never experienced the original, only the re-release. Despite being called a chypre and containing oakmoss/bergamot I don't smell much chypre (little oakmoss, perhaps). SLV is very subtle, always speaking softly. The topnotes are very much bergamot and lavender, pungent yet restrained. These notes fade into the real star of the show, the carnation/jasmine/iris heart/base. Carnation itself is spicy and I have a feeling that other spices are among the unspecified 'green notes'. Again, nothing ever yells in SLV and the spiciness is in balance, helped by a large dose of iris that keeps everything powdery. Until today's wearing I'd never noticed much oakmoss, but because I sprayed on my arms to write this review I'm noticing new things. There are definitely some mossy/woody notes as the carnation fades.

SLV does not present much sillage, but I do get at least 7-8 hours of longevity. This is a non-Guerinade scent for those of you who aren't fans. In fact SLV is among the driest Guerlains, along with Vega and Liu.

This is my Holy Grail green scent.

Taolady, I need to start exploring fig scents. They seem so appealing in the abstract that surely they will also appeal to me "in the flesh."

Haunani, I love The Unicorn Spell. It reminds me a little bit of the olfactory equivalent of eating Smarties, but in the best, best, best possible of ways.