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Why wasn't Bertrand Duchaufou invited by Malle?

post #1 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:18am
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  • CDG
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Supposedly Malle invites best of the best Parfumeurs to create Editions de Parfums, right? I look at the guest list and I see 4 Jean-Claud Ellena, this guy's really that good?

Personally his works mostly don't click with me: Terre d'Hermes I liked for only a short period of time. Declaration didn't nothing for me, Un Jardin après la Mousson is nice and that's it. I am not saying JCE is meh but that's 4 out of 15, come on, give someone else a chance!

By contrast, Bertrand Duchaufour look at the amazing list:

Jubilation XXV (2007)
Dzongkha (2006)
Mechant Loup (1997)
Timbuktu (2004)
Leaves: Calamus & Mint (2000)
Red: Harissa & Sequoia (2001)
Avignon &Kyoto (2002)

Does he deserve a spot in Malle?
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post #2 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:44am
I'm assuming his style of creations and usual use of notes didn't fit with what Frederic was/is looking for.
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post #3 of 21
7/25/09 at 3:04am
I always thought Malle chose his perfumers in a Survivor-like fashion.
Mr. Duchaufou isn't the only great nose missing form the FM line-up, what about Richard Fraysse? Just kidding! But seriously, what about Yann Vasnier or Annick Menardo?
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post #4 of 21
7/25/09 at 6:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDG View Post

Supposedly Malle invites best of the best Parfumeurs to create Editions de Parfums, right? I look at the guest list and I see 4 Jean-Claud Ellena, this guy's really that good?

Personally his works mostly don't click with me: Terre d'Hermes I liked for only a short period of time. Declaration didn't nothing for me, Un Jardin après la Mousson is nice and that's it. I am not saying JCE is meh but that's 4 out of 15, come on, give someone else a chance!

By contrast, Bertrand Duchaufour look at the amazing list:

Jubilation XXV (2007)
Dzongkha (2006)
Mechant Loup (1997)
Timbuktu (2004)
Leaves: Calamus & Mint (2000)
Red: Harissa & Sequoia (2001)
Avignon &Kyoto (2002)

Does he deserve a spot in Malle?

In view of that list, Malle may have the same hypersensitivity to Iso-e-Super I have
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post #5 of 21
7/25/09 at 6:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post

In view of that list, Malle may have the same hypersensitivity to Iso-e-Super I have

My thoughts exactly.
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post #6 of 21
7/25/09 at 6:32am
Jean-Claud Ellena is that gud ) (with his Vetiver Extraordinaire) . I dont like TdH either.
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post #7 of 21
7/25/09 at 7:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohhmygod View Post

Jean-Claud Ellena is that gud ) (with his Vetiver Extraordinaire) . I dont like TdH either.

Ellena didn't do Vetiver Extraordinaire...Ropion did (so confusing keeping all of them straight!)

I think perhaps Malle chooses who he works with based on convenience and chance...the perfumers he knows personally...the perfumers they know...etc. etc. I think they also have to fit with his style. Obviously he has his fav's to work with, but it would be exciting to see what some other notable perfumers could achieve with his budget.
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post #8 of 21
7/25/09 at 11:43am
I believe Duchaufou had an exclusive contract with L'Artisan so that may explain it.
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post #9 of 21
7/25/09 at 12:09pm
Maybe he did ask Duchaufour and he said no?
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post #10 of 21
7/25/09 at 12:37pm
I have to agree on the general sentiment with JCE, the vast majority of his works have not moved me, and his "transparent" style I find annoying. That being said, perhaps my favorite scent of all time, is a Frederic Malle and created by JCE, Angeliques sous la Pluie.
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post #11 of 21
7/25/09 at 12:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by manicboy View Post

I believe Duchaufou had an exclusive contract with L'Artisan so that may explain it.

He's their in-house perfumer, but I don't think it's an exclusive contract. He recently did all of those Eau d'Italie fragrances, too. It seems to me that his style has little in common with the Malle line as it exists so far, so there is probably a different sensibility at wok. Also, how many fragrances can the man create each year anyway? It seems like he's already pushing the limit.
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post #12 of 21
7/25/09 at 1:08pm
I wonder if Frederic will add more noses to the list at some point. Of all of the creations in the Editions de Parfums collection, it's my opinion that JCE's are the least innovative.

As to why Mr. Duchaufour wasn't on the list - I have no clue, but some of the suggestions are interesting. I think everybody on the list has worked with Frederic in some capacity before the Editions de Parfums was conceptualized.
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post #13 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

I have to agree on the general sentiment with JCE, the vast majority of his works have not moved me, and his "transparent" style I find annoying. That being said, perhaps my favorite scent of all time, is a Frederic Malle and created by JCE, Angeliques sous la Pluie.

I may disagree with you on JCE in general, being a fanboy of both the style and the works (and the goddess Iso E Super, too), but I will agree with you about Angeliques. Amazingly good!

However, I do agree that JCE is overrepresented. Annick Menardo or another Giacobetti? I'm on board with that sentiment.
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post #14 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyDG View Post

I wonder if Frederic will add more noses to the list at some point. Of all of the creations in the Editions de Parfums collection, it's my opinion that JCE's are the least innovative.

I agree. It seems like JCE saved his best work for The Different Company line (and, to a lesser extent, the Hermessences). Its just too much of a waste for Malle to allow JCE to release a fragrance and a flanker (Bigarade, and Cologne Bigarade) in such a high profile line.
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post #15 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:28pm
As to why Duchaufour wasn't invited? He's not the only one. I don't see Olivier Cresp, Albert Morillas, and other popular noses in his 'exclusive' list. They can surely replace someone like Ralf Schweiger and Michel Roudnitska. We have to realise that like all other companies, this 'only the best noses' thing is a marketing tool.
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post #16 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:48pm
I say bring in Alberto Morillas and go for some crazy musk laden scent.

Better yet - bring LaPorte out of retirement to create his finest work yet, topping the likes of Ambre Precieux, Santal Noble, etc.

Well, I'd guess LaPorte's style doesn't really mesh with Malle. I'd think Morillas' style would fit though.

Regarding Duchaufour, I've only sniffed Timbuktu and Fleur de Liane. Are they fairly representative of his work?
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post #17 of 21
7/25/09 at 2:55pm
I'd love to see something from Christophe Laudamiel or Francis Kurkdijan.
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post #18 of 21
7/25/09 at 3:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofresh View Post

I'd love to see something from Christophe Laudamiel or Francis Kurkdijan.

Ditto on the Kurkdjian - he's my favorite nose. I have yet to smell one of his creations that I really don't like.
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post #19 of 21
7/25/09 at 3:32pm
I agree with everything you've said - though bringing someone out of retirement might be difficult though lots of folks I know have retired and ended up going back to work out of sheer boredom.

Duchaufour's works:
http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancedi...and+duchaufour

My favorites from that list - Paestum Rose, Jubilation XXV, AdP Colonia Assoluta (with JCE), CdG Kyoto, and the L'Artisan fragrances he's created - which are probably some of the best - if not THE best of L'Artisan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

I say bring in Alberto Morillas and go for some crazy musk laden scent.

Better yet - bring LaPorte out of retirement to create his finest work yet, topping the likes of Ambre Precieux, Santal Noble, etc.

Well, I'd guess LaPorte's style doesn't really mesh with Malle. I'd think Morillas' style would fit though.

Regarding Duchaufour, I've only sniffed Timbuktu and Fleur de Liane. Are they fairly representative of his work?
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post #20 of 21
7/25/09 at 3:34pm
Absolutely - why is there a flanker in such a small collection? I never thought of this before. For Bois d'Orage they simply reformulated to 9% - but didn't create a concentree and leave the 7% on the shelves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp View Post

I agree. It seems like JCE saved his best work for The Different Company line (and, to a lesser extent, the Hermessences). Its just too much of a waste for Malle to allow JCE to release a fragrance and a flanker (Bigarade, and Cologne Bigarade) in such a high profile line.
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post #21 of 21
7/25/09 at 3:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

I say bring in Alberto Morillas and go for some crazy musk laden scent.

Better yet - bring LaPorte out of retirement to create his finest work yet, topping the likes of Ambre Precieux, Santal Noble, etc.

Well, I'd guess LaPorte's style doesn't really mesh with Malle. I'd think Morillas' style would fit though.

Regarding Duchaufour, I've only sniffed Timbuktu and Fleur de Liane. Are they fairly representative of his work?

Yea for the idea of bringing Jean Laporte out of retirement! I agree, though, that the Malle collection is not really his venue.
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