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<SotD> - Friday 31st of July 2009  

post #1 of 114
Thread Starter 
Carven Homme
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post #3 of 114
Day: Vetiver Hombre by Adolfo Dominguez (1998)
Evening: Pierre Cardin pour Monsieur by Pierre Cardin (1972)
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Philosykos
by Diptyque

Top notes: Coriander, Pepper, Galbanum, Black Currant buds
Middle notes: Fig leaves, Coconut
Base notes: Fig wood, Styrax, White Cedar
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Shalimar EDC
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Yohji Yamamoto Yohji
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Givenchy
Gentleman
(1974)
Paul Léger

Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Rose, Honey, Tarragon, Cinnamon
Middle Notes: Patchouli, Jasmine, Cedar, Orris Root
Base Notes: Amber, Civet, Russian Leather, Moss, Musk, Vetiver

I find mrclmind's review spot on about Gentleman as to notes and overall composition and development. A word about the mysterious Paul Léger, a perfumer for Firmenich, to whose nose this scent is attributed. As far as I have ever been able to ascertain, he is only otherwise cited as a collaborator with Roger Pellegrino, Raymond Chaillan, and Robert Gonnon in the creation of Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs. Gentleman has a hint of chocolate and smoky woods in the beginning, both charming and elegant; the base is more old-school, not very fresh or modern, which some people consider a bit "old" or dated. But Gentleman remains a great classic chypre, not much worn any more, and so perhaps interesting for those who would seek a touch of class and originality for their urban dandy man-of-the world wardrobe of scents.
post #9 of 114
Friday's Aramis day!

Sotd - Aramis.

Sote - Aramis Tuscany.
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Davidoff - Zino
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Serge Lutens Mandarine Mandarin.
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Tom Ford
Oud Wood
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Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier - Santal Noble (old bottle design)
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YSL

M7 Fresh


Bois de Aoud Fraîche
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Mazzolari Lui
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Vintage Antaeus
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Capucci pour Homme (1967)
by Roberto Capucci

Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Lime, Basile, Anise, Petitgrain .
Middle Notes: Jasmin, Fruit Note, Lavender .
Base Notes: Patchouli, Moss, Amber, Musk, Cistus .
post #18 of 114
Tobacco Vanille on one wrist, Black Orchid on the other.
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parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Shiso by Comme des Garçons

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Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia by Guerlain
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Guerlain Vetiver EDC
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Guerlain's Parure vintage EdT. A not much talked about floral leather chypre with a noble and serious feel. Jean-Paul Guerlain later explained that he made Parure out of his childhood fantasies of elegance.

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NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
for him


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Green Irish Tweed by Creed
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A*Men (Thierry Mugler)
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Musc Ravageur.
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Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale
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Amouage Lyric
post #29 of 114
My SOTD is Yves Saint-Laurent Live Jazz.

Top Notes: Bitter Lemon Peel, Grapefruit, Iced Mint
Middle Notes: Coriander, Wild Reed, Rhubarb Leaf
Base Notes: Cedarwood, Ambergris, Hint of Vanilla

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Hermes Vetiver Tonka (comfort scent - in Shanghai - lotsa meetings!)
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Eau de Cartier Concentrée
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Santa Maria Novella Acqua Di Sicilia
post #34 of 114
Still in an island frame of mind today.


Czech & Speake Cuba

Growing up in S. Florida in the 60's I watched the Cubans who fled Castro turn Little Havana into a thriving neighborhood. I used to ride my bike down there and feel like I had entered a new country. One of my favorite ways to spend time was playing dominos with some of the older men of the community. They taught me the game, helped me sharpen my Spanish speaking skills, and told me stories of the Cuba that was. Because I have such a strong mental picture of what Cuba is like and the smells I associate with Little Havana I was very interested in a scent called Cuba. This 2002 creation by John Stephen for Czech & Speake lives up to its name and does a great job evoking the smells of the islands. The top is the mojito accord that Guerlain Homme promised, but Mr. Stepehn achieves, in Cuba. A mix of lime, rum and mint starts Cuba off and while this does come off as a mojito my long standing bugaboo with mint still stands as it comes off toothpaste like but thankfully not dominant as it is the rum and lime that carry the top. Next is the spicy latin heart of Cuba as clove and bay come in with some heat and bring this to life along with the lightest of rose. No trip to Cuba would be complete without cigars and the base of Cuba is tobacco laden goodness. Along with the tobacco are solid components of vetiver to contrast the sweetness of the tobacco and cedar to draw some clean borders around all of it. According to the note list there is some incense here but I have never gotten that in my experience with this scent. Cuba is a long-lasting scent on me with moderate sillage. Cuba does a great job reminding me of the stories the abuelos told me while playing dominos. It smells what I imagine a night at the Hotel National in Havana smelled like back in the 50's.

Have a Frabulous Friday everone.
post #35 of 114
Serge Lutens Arabie
post #36 of 114
Early finish at work, time for......

Z Zegna Extreme (2008)
by Ermenegildo Zegna

Top Notes: Mandarin, Grapefruit.
Middle Notes: Cardamom, Rose, Gin.
Base Notes: Patchouli, Musk, Cashmere wood, Vetiver.
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Musk for Men - Coty
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Guerlain
Vetiver pour Elle
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Amouage Jubilation XXV

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Annick Goutal Les Nuits d'Hadrien
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CK One Scene
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Central Park
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sote : in midst of this magnificent green scent called Carlo Corinto Ph (the classic)
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Dunhill Edition....Dunhill
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Reflection Man (2007)
by Amouage
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Red Vetyver
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Apothia Velvet Rope

Grapefruit zest, juniper berry, jasmine absolute, green rose, cypress leaves, white musk, vanilla absolute and patchouli. Went sniffing with two of our own yesterday and received a sample of this. Stange, bizarre vanilla to which I am mysteriously drawn. Maybe I like it because it's very different from everything else I tested.
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Bel Respiro By Chanel
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versace man eau fraiche
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Nino Cerruti Cerruti 1881 (original vintage formulation)

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Jardin du Nil-MPG
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Acqua di Gio

Georgio Armani
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Montale - Red Vetyver
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Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta
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SotM: The Dreamer, by Versace
SotA: Boucheron pour Homme
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Cartier's Declaration Essence

from samples

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DKNY Men 2009
post #59 of 114
Bois du Portugal
post #60 of 114
Du Coq
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