So I might be heading toward a dead end here, so please excuse my rambling 
I've become curious about learning the specifics behind the relationship between what we call "skin chemistry" and fragrance. We talk about skin chemistry often here, and it's usually used to preclude our fragrance opinions ("on my skin...," "well it could just be my skin chemistry, but this stuff smells nasty on me."). We all know that our individual skin chemistries affect how fragrances smell on us. An accord that blossoms beautifully on one person can smell foul or stale on another. This has been discussed here at length.
But what about the specifics? Skin chemistry generally refers to the characteristics of a person's skin: pH level, personal odor, oiliness, etc. From what I can tell from the small amount of research I've done, pH levels have the largest effect on fragrance reactions.
So I'm wondering: Is there a way to know what fragrance notes or accord types coordinate best with various pH levels? It would be really convenient if, for instance, we figured out that amber did not react well with acidic skin. Someone who knows they have acidic skin could simply avoid amber and save themselves a lot of trouble and frustration.
Most adults have a skin pH between 4.5 (acidic) and 6 (close to neutral...neutral is 7). Babies are closer to neutral, and children have more acidic skin, to protect against disease. According to the excerpt below, many compounds commonly used in fragrance are not designed to function in acidic environments (such as human skin, in most cases) or basic environments. In fact, acidic or alkaline environments may cause these fragrance compounds to degrade. Odd, considering that most people have slightly acidic skin. [edit:] Conversely, some fragrances are designed to release odor in acidic environments. There are so many factors to consider!
Could it be that people for whom all fragrances just seem to "work" just have abnormally neutral skin that doesn't need to alter the pH of fragrance compounds as much? (see last paragraph below)
From http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/70...cription.html:
"Fragrance characteristics can be varied by manipulating pH, component solubility and molecular weight, among other factors.
[...]
Perfumes which release their fragrance materials in an acid containing medium such as the acid mantle of skin can be suitably formulated into highly alkaline matrices which typically comprise roll-on deodorants, creams, lotions, etc. Many of the fragrance ingredients which comprise perfumes, colognes, eau de toilettes, after-shave lotions, etc. are not suitable for inclusion in an alkaline pH environment; for example, many of the commonly known fragrance notes are esters and they are susceptible to hydrolysis at pH levels much above neutrality.
Human skin exhibits a "buffer capacity" which vigorously maintains a fairly constant pH value. This buffer capacity is referred to as "the acid mantle." Human skin acts rapidly to neutralize acidic or alkaline insults outside this constant pH value."
Thoughts?

I've become curious about learning the specifics behind the relationship between what we call "skin chemistry" and fragrance. We talk about skin chemistry often here, and it's usually used to preclude our fragrance opinions ("on my skin...," "well it could just be my skin chemistry, but this stuff smells nasty on me."). We all know that our individual skin chemistries affect how fragrances smell on us. An accord that blossoms beautifully on one person can smell foul or stale on another. This has been discussed here at length.
But what about the specifics? Skin chemistry generally refers to the characteristics of a person's skin: pH level, personal odor, oiliness, etc. From what I can tell from the small amount of research I've done, pH levels have the largest effect on fragrance reactions.
So I'm wondering: Is there a way to know what fragrance notes or accord types coordinate best with various pH levels? It would be really convenient if, for instance, we figured out that amber did not react well with acidic skin. Someone who knows they have acidic skin could simply avoid amber and save themselves a lot of trouble and frustration.
Most adults have a skin pH between 4.5 (acidic) and 6 (close to neutral...neutral is 7). Babies are closer to neutral, and children have more acidic skin, to protect against disease. According to the excerpt below, many compounds commonly used in fragrance are not designed to function in acidic environments (such as human skin, in most cases) or basic environments. In fact, acidic or alkaline environments may cause these fragrance compounds to degrade. Odd, considering that most people have slightly acidic skin. [edit:] Conversely, some fragrances are designed to release odor in acidic environments. There are so many factors to consider!
Could it be that people for whom all fragrances just seem to "work" just have abnormally neutral skin that doesn't need to alter the pH of fragrance compounds as much? (see last paragraph below)
From http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/70...cription.html:
"Fragrance characteristics can be varied by manipulating pH, component solubility and molecular weight, among other factors.
[...]
Perfumes which release their fragrance materials in an acid containing medium such as the acid mantle of skin can be suitably formulated into highly alkaline matrices which typically comprise roll-on deodorants, creams, lotions, etc. Many of the fragrance ingredients which comprise perfumes, colognes, eau de toilettes, after-shave lotions, etc. are not suitable for inclusion in an alkaline pH environment; for example, many of the commonly known fragrance notes are esters and they are susceptible to hydrolysis at pH levels much above neutrality.
Human skin exhibits a "buffer capacity" which vigorously maintains a fairly constant pH value. This buffer capacity is referred to as "the acid mantle." Human skin acts rapidly to neutralize acidic or alkaline insults outside this constant pH value."
Thoughts?



















So...this is probably futile, but at least it's interesting!


