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Iris Comparison

post #1 of 23
10/4/09 at 5:18pm
Thread Starter 
So I've tried the following fragrances that showcase iris - Lutens Iris Silver Mist, TDC Bois d'Iris, PG Cuir d'Iris/Iris Taizo and Dior Homme...

I find the iris in Dior Homme to be closest to the "rooty" vs. floral iris in the Lutens ISM... very dry, almost like the smell of the pages of paper in an old book. I was rather surprised the iris in Dior Homme was so potent, tenacious and vivid. It did remind me of ISM for sure and not so much the iris (flower?) in the aforementioned scents.
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post #2 of 23
10/4/09 at 6:11pm
Yeah see when I was going on an iris hunt a month or so ago I got really confused as to the floral part of iris perfumes, because iris flowers themselves have no floral scent, they smell like juicy green unscented petals! I got a hold of some violets which were exactly what I had thought iris flowers smelt like, from the various iris perfumes I'd tried. I'd be very interested to smell iris absolute (if it exists), iris root essence and violet absolute next to each other.

Anyways sorry to hijack your moment there. Dior Homme is a very nice iris, one of the best recent release designer fragrances I know of. The cult of Hedi Slimane doesn't hang around for nothing!
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post #3 of 23
10/4/09 at 6:12pm
I adore Heeley Iris de Nuit and of course, the stunning 28 la Pausa
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post #4 of 23
10/4/09 at 7:03pm
I'm looking forward to trying the sample of Maitre Parfumeur Iris Bleu Gris I'm ordering - have you tried this one?
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post #5 of 23
10/4/09 at 8:57pm
Weird. I'm surprised you find Iris Silver Mist floral - to me, it's much darker, earthier and less sweet than Dior Homme. ISM smelled like carrots, iris, and earth, but Dior Homme smelled like gourmand lipstick ( considering the respective availability of the two, though, I certainly wish my impressions were reversed! )

Scented iris flowers smell like grape jam to me, nothing like the root. I came across a patch of scented ones couple years ago - I don't think there are many scented varieties. If it wasn't so bombastic, perhaps Alien would be a good iris flower fragrance.
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post #6 of 23
10/4/09 at 9:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by warlandsboy View Post

I'm looking forward to trying the sample of Maitre Parfumeur Iris Bleu Gris I'm ordering - have you tried this one?


Yeah...I've tried this...I found it very similar to TDC Bois D'Iris.....it had decent longevity...
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post #7 of 23
10/4/09 at 9:07pm
Though I don't like either, Iris Bleu Gris is the closest fragrance to Fath's classic Iris Gris ( in fact I suspect it's a little bit of a homage, given the name ). In fact, I liked IBG better because it smelled - at least to me - the bigger and more complex of the two.
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post #8 of 23
10/4/09 at 10:05pm
Quick comments on the different facets of iris represented by the fragrances mentioned in the first post. I went through a big iris phase not so long ago....

Iris Silver Mist: dark and rooty - the cold, palid side of iris. If you like this representation of iris but want it toned down a little, try Hermes Hiris.

TDC Bois d'Iris: I always think of wine when I smell this... it also has that 'bread' quality that one also finds in iris fragrances such as L'Artisan Bois Farine and Iris Pallida. The same sort of iris appears in Guerlain Apres l'Ondee, which is made 'interesting' with the addition of violet, anise, vanilla, and herbal notes (while still having prominent iris).

PG Cuir d'Iris - not much distinct iris, if any. Instead I believe that iris gives the leather accord it's soft and buttery feel.

PG Iris Taizo: here iris serves as the underlying dominant floral upon which sweeter florals are presented. A toned down version of this can be found in SMN Iris, which is lightly sweetened yet still powdery and earthy... it's great.

Dior Homme to my nose doesn't have very distinct iris but it's clearly the floral upon which gourmand and leather notes are built, and it provides a softness to the overall composition much the way iris does in Cuir d'Iris. Another fragrance in this same category would be Guerlain Iris Ganache, which uses very sweet cocoa and vanilla notes mixes with prominent, powdery iris. If you try the Dior Homme Cologne the iris is more obviously present.

MPG Iris Bleu Gris adds a big peppery/spice note to the underlying iris (and it's sister scent, MPG Fleur d'Iris weds vanilla to iris).
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post #9 of 23
10/5/09 at 12:24am
  • cpk
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The scent of iris doesn't come from the flower. It is produced from the root of the plant. It takes a minimum of three years of growing the plant and about another two years of treating the root. That's why it is so expensive. The final product has an undeniable floral tone but the iris flower itself does not contribute to it.
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post #10 of 23
10/5/09 at 12:32am
The iris, for me, is that note that is somehow thick in texture, that some people associate to lipstick, crayons or carrots (i think crayon is the closest of these three). The best example to detect it is Iris Silver Mist.

But it can work differently depending on what is envolving it. While Iris Silver Mist is rooty and earthy, Bois d'Iris is woody, and Dior Homme is sweet gourmand. Anyway, all of these fragrances shares (in different proportions) that thick "crayon-like" note somewhere in their top notes or evolution. By the way, i can't detect this note in Iris Bleu Gris and Iris Ganache (and also none or almost undetectable in Iris Poudre).
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post #11 of 23
10/5/09 at 12:38am
  • MFJ
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Hermes Hiris, though sweet and powdery, also has that distinct carroty, cosmetics bag, lipstick accord, to my nose. It is my 2nd favorite behind Bois d'Iris.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vitorscpaiva View Post

The iris, for me, is that note that is somehow thick in texture, that some people associate to lipstick, crayons or carrots (i think crayon is the closest of these three).

Yes now that you have mentioned it, crayon seem to be the best descriptor for me as well.
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post #12 of 23
10/5/09 at 4:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by heynow View Post

Quick comments on the different facets of iris represented by the fragrances mentioned in the first post. I went through a big iris phase not so long ago....

Thanks for these reviews. I added Iris Silver Mist, Cuir d'Iris, and Iris Taïzo 14 to my test list.
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post #13 of 23
10/5/09 at 9:23am
  • cpk
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I could also suggest you should try Divine's L' Homme de Coeur. http://www.basenotes.net/ID26122423.html A very dry and very masculine iris and woods combo. Not very popular but extremely enjoyable and available online in the official site.
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post #14 of 23
10/5/09 at 9:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpk View Post

The scent of iris doesn't come from the flower. It is produced from the root of the plant. It takes a minimum of three years of growing the plant and about another two years of treating the root. That's why it is so expensive. The final product has an undeniable floral tone but the iris flower itself does not contribute to it.

What he said. ^
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post #15 of 23
10/5/09 at 10:21am
After 28 La Pausa, I've been on an iris kick, too. These comparisons have been really helpful (and added to my ever-growing test list ).

I've been trying to get a sense of where Parfums DelRae's new Mythique falls in the iris spectrum, but I don't have a good handle on it yet. (Notes from Luckyscent: mandarin, Italian bergamot, ivy, peony, jasmin concrete, Florentine orris butter, sandalwood, patchouli, ambrette musk.)
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post #16 of 23
10/5/09 at 1:21pm
Not a fan of iris, though I enjoy Iris Taizo. My search for my favorite iris has ended though at, Dior Homme Cologne.
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post #17 of 23
10/5/09 at 2:20pm
Hmmm just busted out my sample of TDC Bois d'Iris and still think it's a bit dull, but I still may give it a wear this week if I can find an empty atomizer...

Edit: Still on a search for a sample of Dior Homme Cologne heh.
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post #18 of 23
10/5/09 at 2:45pm
Orris butter, absolute, can vary quite a bit based on the irone content - the more irones and the more potent and floral, sweet, berry (raspberry) and violet flower-like it tends to be. There is also a waxy/woody/crayon-like (great descriptor, thanks vitorscpaiva ) texture that varies in strength absed on the extraction method, the exact species, and the irone content.

Iris is often used in blends to soften sharp or shrill notes, the way a thin towel placed over a speakers tweeter will reduce the treble content. Of course, overdosed or done poorly and the resulting composition - just like a speaker with a large blanket over it - will become muddy. Sometimes though, the mix is just too shrill as is and a subtle attenuation of those qualities makes it infinitely more palatable.

Some of my favorite iris scents that haven't been mentioned are MPG's Bois de Turquie which mixes iris with cinnamon and a host of other spices and soft woods, and Amouage's Reflection where it forms a large part of the heart of the fragrance along with neroli and ylang ylang. Here it contributes subtle berry like notes, a powdery vibe with a thick, slightly waxy texture, and also contributes to the fragrances cool/cold quality.
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post #19 of 23
10/5/09 at 4:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Orris butter, absolute, can vary quite a bit based on the irone content - the more irones and the more potent and floral, sweet, berry (raspberry) and violet flower-like it tends to be. There is also a waxy/woody/crayon-like (great descriptor, thanks vitorscpaiva ) texture that varies in strength absed on the extraction method, the exact species, and the irone content.

Iris is often used in blends to soften sharp or shrill notes, the way a thin towel placed over a speakers tweeter will reduce the treble content. Of course, overdosed or done poorly and the resulting composition - just like a speaker with a large blanket over it - will become muddy. Sometimes though, the mix is just too shrill as is and a subtle attenuation of those qualities makes it infinitely more palatable.

Some of my favorite iris scents that haven't been mentioned are MPG's Bois de Turquie which mixes iris with cinnamon and a host of other spices and soft woods, and Amouage's Reflection where it forms a large part of the heart of the fragrance along with neroli and ylang ylang. Here it contributes subtle berry like notes, a powdery vibe with a thick, slightly waxy texture, and also contributes to the fragrances cool/cold quality.

What a cool analogy, explained it well in layman's terms

Why am I not surprised that you've somehow managed to mention Amouage again SoS!
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post #20 of 23
10/5/09 at 4:59pm
My favorite Iris based fragrance is not one but two used simultaneously in a two to one proportion. Now, before you brand me a heretic I offer for your consideration Arpege pour homme (two spritz) to Hermes Hiris (one spritz). IMO a better alternative to Dior Homme. Not as sweet and with more Iris. It is alchemy my friends at it's best.
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post #21 of 23
10/5/09 at 8:53pm
This post is mandatory reading for those interested in Iris. Read especially the educational post by Scentemental:

http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=203989

-Slim
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post #22 of 23
10/5/09 at 9:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post

My favorite Iris based fragrance is not one but two used simultaneously in a two to one proportion. Now, before you brand me a heretic I offer for your consideration Arpege pour homme (two spritz) to Hermes Hiris (one spritz). IMO a better alternative to Dior Homme. Not as sweet and with more Iris. It is alchemy my friends at it's best.

I love Hiris - it's a great go-to when I want just simple iris. To be honest I don't reach for Dior Homme for iris, but for when I want a light gourmand... so even while Dior Homme contains iris I don't think of it as 'an iris'.
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post #23 of 23
10/6/09 at 12:32am
My favorite is the superb DIOR HOMME but i also love IRIS SILVER MIST, L'HOMME DE COEUR and IRIS BLEU GRIS
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