I know there are a few threads on MDCI fragrances, but considering that most are in the female discussion section, I figured I'd write a little bit about my first impressions of this somewhat underrated fragrance house.
I recently purchased and received a sample set of 5 of their fragrances. Each bottle pictured is at least 10 ml, probably somewhere around 12.5 ml...
So, as for the first impressions:
Ambre Topkapi: This just doesn't get the attention it deserves. It smells like a smokey and spicy version of Mark Birley for Men (also not surprisingly created by Pierre Bourdon). In other words, I'm getting a translucent and fluid amber that smells heavy on ambergris with a little smoke, a little bit of spices and a juicy apple note that almost goes under the radar. No powder or heavy amber here - just smokey yet transparent amber. Smells to me like an old and cultured man. A little bit generic in style, but a great fragrance overall.
Promesse de l'Aube: Vibert wrote in a review of his that this smells like a younger Mitsouko and I can't help but agree fully. This is a peachy chypre, very reminiscent of Mitsouko but so much more innocent. While Mitsouko is jolie-laide (ie. ugly and pretty at the same time), PdlA is simply pretty while still coming off as intelligent. The main notes I'm getting are peach and vanilla over some sort of oakmossy base. There's even a strange skank in the base that reminds me of old-world perfumes. This smells like a modern version of something classic by Guerlain. My favorite of the 3 feminines I've tried (the other two being Enlevement au Serail and Peche Cardinal).
Enlevement au Serail: Strangely enough, this one also reminds me of Mitsouko, but unlike Promesse de l'Aube, this one is downright ugly and beautiful at the same time. It's like a rounder, more spicy and oriental Mitsouko with a touch of L'Heure Bleue's powdery melancholy. I can't really describe the notes because I don't even know what it is I'm smelling - I just know I've smelled something like this before in a classic Guerlain. Enlevement is super old fashioned and I can't see myself pulling it off, although I do love it. It reminds me of a cute little Chinese lady.
Peche Cardinal: Peach flavoured urinal pucks. That was my first impression. Now that it's drying down a bit I'm getting some hay, but it's staying pretty linear overall. Somehow I'm repulsed by this but I keep finding myself taking sniffs of the arm I applied it to. The youngest smelling of the feminine scents I've tried so far - I'm still not sure if I love it or hate it. It might smell better on someone else's skin than mine but it's currently giving me a headache. :S
Invasion Barbare: Ah, the best for last. This is actually my current holy grail, and the reason I purchased the sample set. It smells like a cross between Green Irish Tweed, Le Male and Jicky. IOW, it's got a fresh violet opening, a lavender-spice heart and a leathery-vanilla base. Super smooth, amazing quality ingredients and superb blending, this one is literally perfect in every way - on my skin at least...
Overall, I like everything this line has to offer - the quality is high, the artistry and creativity is generally up there too and I'm absolutely in love with Invasion Barbare. I'm a little disapointed with Francis Kurkdjian's fragrances (Enlevement au Serail and Promesse de l'Aube), as they smell a little too old fashioned, but the quality and creativity is definitely there. I'm sure old-school Guerlain fans will love those two.
My favorites on the other hand are (surprise, surprise) Invasion Barbare and Ambre Topkapi, the only two masculines of the line so far.
If you got this far into my ramblings, thanks for reading!
I recently purchased and received a sample set of 5 of their fragrances. Each bottle pictured is at least 10 ml, probably somewhere around 12.5 ml...
So, as for the first impressions:
Ambre Topkapi: This just doesn't get the attention it deserves. It smells like a smokey and spicy version of Mark Birley for Men (also not surprisingly created by Pierre Bourdon). In other words, I'm getting a translucent and fluid amber that smells heavy on ambergris with a little smoke, a little bit of spices and a juicy apple note that almost goes under the radar. No powder or heavy amber here - just smokey yet transparent amber. Smells to me like an old and cultured man. A little bit generic in style, but a great fragrance overall.
Promesse de l'Aube: Vibert wrote in a review of his that this smells like a younger Mitsouko and I can't help but agree fully. This is a peachy chypre, very reminiscent of Mitsouko but so much more innocent. While Mitsouko is jolie-laide (ie. ugly and pretty at the same time), PdlA is simply pretty while still coming off as intelligent. The main notes I'm getting are peach and vanilla over some sort of oakmossy base. There's even a strange skank in the base that reminds me of old-world perfumes. This smells like a modern version of something classic by Guerlain. My favorite of the 3 feminines I've tried (the other two being Enlevement au Serail and Peche Cardinal).
Enlevement au Serail: Strangely enough, this one also reminds me of Mitsouko, but unlike Promesse de l'Aube, this one is downright ugly and beautiful at the same time. It's like a rounder, more spicy and oriental Mitsouko with a touch of L'Heure Bleue's powdery melancholy. I can't really describe the notes because I don't even know what it is I'm smelling - I just know I've smelled something like this before in a classic Guerlain. Enlevement is super old fashioned and I can't see myself pulling it off, although I do love it. It reminds me of a cute little Chinese lady.
Peche Cardinal: Peach flavoured urinal pucks. That was my first impression. Now that it's drying down a bit I'm getting some hay, but it's staying pretty linear overall. Somehow I'm repulsed by this but I keep finding myself taking sniffs of the arm I applied it to. The youngest smelling of the feminine scents I've tried so far - I'm still not sure if I love it or hate it. It might smell better on someone else's skin than mine but it's currently giving me a headache. :S
Invasion Barbare: Ah, the best for last. This is actually my current holy grail, and the reason I purchased the sample set. It smells like a cross between Green Irish Tweed, Le Male and Jicky. IOW, it's got a fresh violet opening, a lavender-spice heart and a leathery-vanilla base. Super smooth, amazing quality ingredients and superb blending, this one is literally perfect in every way - on my skin at least...
Overall, I like everything this line has to offer - the quality is high, the artistry and creativity is generally up there too and I'm absolutely in love with Invasion Barbare. I'm a little disapointed with Francis Kurkdjian's fragrances (Enlevement au Serail and Promesse de l'Aube), as they smell a little too old fashioned, but the quality and creativity is definitely there. I'm sure old-school Guerlain fans will love those two.
My favorites on the other hand are (surprise, surprise) Invasion Barbare and Ambre Topkapi, the only two masculines of the line so far.
If you got this far into my ramblings, thanks for reading!
