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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire PH!!!

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 
Stop the presses! As evidenced by my recent threads, I've been on a very difficult quest to expand my holy trinity of fine fragrance (see below). So my dad and I (the apple really doesn't fall from the tree in this case) just went on a midday fragrance hunt at Nieman Marcus here in Chicago. Of course, we had to navigate the usual array of snooty and somewhat bizarre SA's (some dude even insisted on physically rubbing some very expensive Guerlain into my arm with his hands instead of spraying it on me--very creepy).

Anyway, we were joking around and smelling some of the usual stuff when we came up the new line from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. I tried the three scents in the men's line and really liked each one of them. All three are really special and unique, which is something I rarely say. The quality and expertise that went into these are evident right from the first sniff. Of the three, however, I immediately fell in love with Lumiere Noire Pour Homme and decided to lay out the cash for it right on the spot, without even waiting for the drydown. I don't believe I've ever done this before.

I'm not great at describing the particular notes and composition of a fragrance, but I've read some descriptions online and they do a very good job. All I will say is that it's an extremely sophisticated, beautiful and sexy fragrance for a man and I do believe that I will now have to expand my so-called holy trinity to accomodate a fourth, very worthy addition.

I was told this line is only available at a few Nieman Marcus locations across the country (Chicago and Beverly Hills, perhaps some others), as well as Bergdorf Goodman in NYC. Do yourself a favor and try this, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

- Brad
post #2 of 34
Yes, the opening of LNPH is quite gripping... its quite ambiguous in terms of gender too - this is one scent that I feel most smells like Narciso Rodriguez for Her in the drydown.

Its great you found something you liked right off the bat. I felt the same way for Cologne Pour le Soir.
Enjoy it Brad!
post #3 of 34
I am working in Chicago this week, so I will have to check them out. Plus I wouldn't mind a little Guerlain rubdown also.
post #4 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Yes, the opening of LNPH is quite gripping... its quite ambiguous in terms of gender too - this is one scent that I feel most smells like Narciso Rodriguez for Her in the drydown.

Its great you found something you liked right off the bat. I felt the same way for Cologne Pour le Soir.
Enjoy it Brad!

Interesting take on it. I didn't get any ambiguity in terms of gender at all, except to the extent that it's definitely a very beautiful, more subtle take on a man's fragrance. It sure seems to be "all man" to me, but I suppose a woman might like to wear it too.
post #5 of 34
Definitely a keeper - glad to hear you like it.

If you get a chance, take a sniff of the Lumiere Noire pour Femme. It's almost as masculine (if not more masculine) than the one for men. I almost feel that Francis Kurkdjian is having some fun gender bending with the labeling of these two fragrances. If you get a chance to smell Narciso Rodriguez for Her you'll see exactly what Dimitri is talking about. I see it as totally unisex, but I can also see women smelling it and thinking it's specifically for women. A really great frag that's intriguing in many ways. I Hope to gets me one of them bottles soon enough!
post #6 of 34
I'm really looking forward to testing these as I think Kurkdjian is one of the most creative perfumers around (or maybe I just tend to love his work!).

Which MFK (Maison Francis Kurkdjian) scent was it that smelled something like his very own Fleur du Male? I love Fleur du Male but want something with a bit less longevity and a tad less synthetic, if possible.
post #7 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Which MFK (Maison Francis Kurkdjian) scent was it that smelled something like his very own Fleur du Male? I love Fleur du Male but want something with a bit less longevity and a tad less synthetic, if possible.

That would be APOM (A Piece Of Me) For Women.
post #8 of 34
Thanks Mike. I'm going to look further into this scent when I have some time.

Two quick questions: Have you smelled it and if so, is it wearable by a man generally comfortable with somewhat feminine scents (Prada Amber, Reflection Man, Fleur du Male )?
post #9 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Thanks Mike. I'm going to have to search out more info regarding that scent.

Two quick questions: Have you smelled it and if so, is it wearable by a man generally comfortable with somewhat feminine scents (Prada Amber, Reflection Man, Fleur du Male )?

I haven't smelled it yet. It sounds extremely powdery, which scares me. I think it's being compared to Fleur de Male and L' Heure Bleue bu Guerlain, which IMO is a compliment. But still, I can envision how just a tiny bit too much might push this one right over the edge for me.
post #10 of 34
It's available on NM's website here
post #11 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post

Definitely a keeper - glad to hear you like it.

If you get a chance, take a sniff of the Lumiere Noire pour Femme. It's almost as masculine (if not more masculine) than the one for men. I almost feel that Francis Kurkdjian is having some fun gender bending with the labeling of these two fragrances. If you get a chance to smell Narciso Rodriguez for Her you'll see exactly what Dimitri is talking about. I see it as totally unisex, but I can also see women smelling it and thinking it's specifically for women. A really great frag that's intriguing in many ways. I Hope to gets me one of them bottles soon enough!

I have a sample of the pour Femme and sprayed a little on me last night. I really didn't like it. Smelled like some rich old lady in an elevator. I don't get any masculine feeling out of this stuff at all.
post #12 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post

...take a sniff of the Lumiere Noire pour Femme. It's almost as masculine (if not more masculine) than the one for men. I almost feel that Francis Kurkdjian is having some fun gender bending with the labeling of these two fragrances.

I agree 100% - I found LNPF heavier on the patch and rose - much more so than its male counterpart. I also feel Kurkdjian is blurring the borders between the genders. I dont think there is any scent which instantly stands out as an overtly feminine or masculine scent. (OK, perhaps APOM for Women falls into a more rigid female category - which is heavy on the ylang ylang).
post #13 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Thanks Mike. I'm going to look further into this scent when I have some time.

Two quick questions: Have you smelled it and if so, is it wearable by a man generally comfortable with somewhat feminine scents (Prada Amber, Reflection Man, Fleur du Male )?

Wattup SOS,

I've tried the whole line, trying each fragrance at least a few times and (sadly) I didn't find any of them smelled like Fleur du Male. There's another thread where I describe my first impressions and they still mostly hold true. APOM for men smells a lot like Antidote (but less synthetic and complex), which I imagine you'll like, and APOM for women smells a bit like a classic Guerlain - lots of iris and ylang ylang in it. Fantastic fragrances overall though - I'm sure you'll find one you really love. Based on your wardrobe, I think Lumiere Noire pour Homme will work great for you.

The only one I found to be redundant of Kurkdjian's own previous work is Cologne pour le Matin, which smells like an improved, muskier and more complex version of Cologne Blanche by Dior.

************************************************** ****

Edit: Oh and a word of warning on sampling these: I got the impression that each fragrance was a totally different style from the others.

You could liken each one to a different style of fragrance house:

LN pour Homme: Narciso Rodriguez
LN pour Femme: Juliette has a Gun? I'm just guessing here, as I've never smelled that line, but I've read a lot of men wear it
APOM pour Homme: Victor and Rolf
APOM pour Femme: (Classic) Guerlain
Cologne pour le Matin: Dior (naturally, regarding the above statement)
Cologne pour le Soir: This one is so unique I don't know where to place it. Smells very natural with the most amazing frankincense note.
Aqua Universalis: The most natural-smelling laundry detergent in the world. Smells like a field of lillies (I think that's the correct floral?)
post #14 of 34
Thank you for the breakdown L'Aventurier.

Next time I order samples I'm going to pick up LN PH, APOM PH, both Colognes and Acqua Universalis. APOM PF does sound good but heavy ylang and iris I'm not sure I can do. I'm pushing it already with Reflection Man . APOM PH sounds great. I've been looking for something to replace Antidote for awhile. Not only does it seem to bring me bad luck (my one and only superstition, and of course it's rooted in the world of fragrance! ) but the synthetic feel of the drydown irritates me.

I read in the other thread that you mentioned these all smell more natural and do NOT have the insane longevity that so many designer FK scents have, and for that I am extremely thankful!
post #15 of 34
I just smelled this one today as they have the testers available here in Las Vegas, with the actual merchandise to follow in the next couple of weeks. One from the line smelled sort of like T. Gregory, can't remember which - but this one caught my nose after smelling about 15 scents or so. The only other scent I smelled that was really noteworthy was the new offering from Acqua Di Parma's Blu Mediterraneo line, Bergomotto di Calabria which would make a nice summer scent.
post #16 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I haven't smelled it yet. It sounds extremely powdery, which scares me. I think it's being compared to Fleur de Male and L' Heure Bleue bu Guerlain, which IMO is a compliment. But still, I can envision how just a tiny bit too much might push this one right over the edge for me.

Mike, knowing your taste, I can say with a fair amount of certainty that you wouldn't like APOM pour femme. There is a a pretty considerable powdery note. I think it's great, but I don't think your thoughts on powder would have you feeling the same.
post #17 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd4t View Post

Mike, knowing your taste, I can say with a fair amount of certainty that you wouldn't like APOM pour femme. There is a a pretty considerable powdery note. I think it's great, but I don't think your thoughts on powder would have you feeling the same.

Thanks R.

I have a sample of the men's which I need to get around to sampling. The only one from the line I've smelled is Cologne Pour le Soir.
post #18 of 34
Thread Starter 
Now that this thread has been resurrected, I wanted to add that Lumiere Noire is still among my Top 5--and actually my Top 3--fragrances! It's truly a scent that I never plan to be without.
post #19 of 34
Me too, me too! I own it and still not bored with it. Both LNoire and APOM
post #20 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Thanks R.

I have a sample of the men's which I need to get around to sampling. The only one from the line I've smelled is Cologne Pour le Soir.

I do foresee paring a couple down to make room for Cologne Pour le Soir. I've only samples it a couple times, but boy, was it nice.
I have the whole line in samples from LS and this thread has me really wanting to pay closer attention to them and really give the the proper wearing.
post #21 of 34
Lumiere Noire PH is OK, but pales in comparison to Cologne Pour Le Soir IMO - which is a fantastic fragrance that I get great longevity from.
post #22 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post

Lumiere Noire PH is OK, but pales in comparison to Cologne Pour Le Soir IMO - which is a fantastic fragrance that I get great longevity from.

I've received more compliments on Lumiere Noire in the short time I've owned it than anything else I have. I really enjoyed the top notes of CPLS a lot, but it quickly dried down to a feminine scent that I really couldn't see wearing as a man.
post #23 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by WindyCity1014 View Post

I've received more compliments on Lumiere Noire in the short time I've owned it than anything else I have. I really enjoyed the top notes of CPLS a lot, but it quickly dried down to a feminine scent that I really couldn't see wearing as a man.

That's why I usually wear it with my feather boa.
post #24 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post

Lumiere Noire PH is OK, but pales in comparison to Cologne Pour Le Soir IMO - which is a fantastic fragrance that I get great longevity from.

Well to me it´s the other way round. Cologne Pour Le Soir is ok, but resembles Musk Ravageur too much, sweet and powdery,... which not a bad thing, but stil too much alike, I like APOM and Lumier Noire the most from this house.
post #25 of 34
How different is Lumiere Noire from Rosine’s Rose d’Homme or Une Folie de Rose?
post #26 of 34
I am reeeeeally starting to like Lumiere Noire - there is only one drawback. It seems to be a skin scent on me. No sillage at all. Is this just my skin or on everyone?
post #27 of 34
I recently visited Kurkdjian boutique in Paris, and I was blown away. I think Lumiere Noire pour Homme is in fact very impressive, and I agree with some of the reviews on Cologne Pour le Soir, which is truly wonderful. LN reminds a bit of Krizia Uomo, but far more refined, gentle and unisex. The rose and patchouli mix is aboslutely perfect, and that's the thing about Kurkdjian: not very complex structures, quite simple notes, but masterfully blended.
I'm a big fan of APOM pour Homme, which has got a beautiful orange blossom note. I think Cologne pour le Matin is extremely nice as well, it is a sort of very sophisticated Mugler Cologne, more musky and kind of bit more herbal.
I don't particuarly like Aqua Universalis, I'm not a fan of lily.
All in all, I think the Maison Kurkdjian perfumes are top quality, beautifully presented (nice bottles, simple and elegant package) and they are terrific as for adequate sillage (probably Lumiere Noire is the only loud one) and outstanding longevity.
post #28 of 34
Then I guess it's just my skin (or my nose)!
post #29 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by neal View Post

Then I guess it's just my skin (or my nose)!

No, I guess scents can vary a bit from person to person. This is very, very light on me too.
post #30 of 34
I tried both LNs and also find the PF more 'assertive' and more obviously Rose + Patchouli and the LNPH quite subtle by comparison - nicely understated - which works for me.

I'm enjoying APOM PH now it's hit 30c here and plan on picking up Cologne Pour Soir at some point.

MFK is a really nice coherent collection IMO.
post #31 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post

No, I guess scents can vary a bit from person to person. This is very, very light on me too.

There's a huuuuggeee amount of egyptian-style musk in Lumiere Noire, and it so it's easy to get habituated to it. I wore it the other day and thought the same thing... The next morning I smelled this amazing blend of musky rose wafting up from somewhere in my room. It was my shirt from the day before and it smelled even stronger than I remembered it smelling the day before.

This kind of thing happens with all large molecules (eg. musk).

Another good example is Bulgari pour Homme. It's one of the cleanest, muskiest fragrances I've ever smelled, and I get habituated to it in minutes. Others can smell it on my for hours.
post #32 of 34
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but after reading this and wearing this again, i have all the same thoughts as Windycity, and will defintely be getting a bottle of this soon! Love this stuff!
post #33 of 34
after going thru a sample - im about to buy a bottle of Lumiere Noire PH
post #34 of 34
Good stuff from a classy house.
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