Costume National
21
(2007)
Juliette Karagueuzoglou
Woody Floral Oriental
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Top Notes: Bergamot, Milk, Orange Blossoms, Saffron, Cumin, Pepper, Cashmere Wood
Middle Notes: Royal Jelly, Moss, Clary Sage, Patchouli
Base Notes: Olibanum, Amber, Sandalwood, Oudh Wood, Cedar, Vetiver, Labdanum, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk
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This is a very woody, yet at the same time lactonic, creamy scent. There is a good deal of spice in this, and some perfumer-arty things like bergamot, moss, and clary sage (very sophisticated and traditional notes). Kashmir wood in the top is backed up by vetiver, cedar and patchouli in the base. The labdanum in the heart gives aid to the creaminess, yet veering off a little toward ambergris, its closest scent equivalent. Tonka and vanilla add an oriental dimension and a roundness to the woody and spicy notes. To me, this is one of the best of the Costume National line; milder, but at the same time more complex, better balanced and more skillfully constructed than the other offerings from that house. This is also an EdP strength. A very welcome addition from Costume National, and a clear demonstration of how good their stuff can be! Kudos to Juliette Karagueuzoglou, the nose responsible for this.