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What does iris actually smell like?

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
I know this might be an impossible question to answer, but what does iris actually smell like? I've smelt a few fragrances that contain iris supposedly but I can't make out which note is the iris? Some other florals, rose, lilly, lilac I know the scent but iris I have no clue. please help is possible
post #2 of 28
post #3 of 28
post #4 of 28
It smells like a mix of lipstick, powder, raw potatoes and carrot. Try to find a common denominator in iris prominent scents and this is what iris smells like. Rumour has it that Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist contains any possible iris note from all sources available. Ideally if you can get a sample of this, you get a pretty idea of what iris smells like.
post #5 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpk View Post

It smells like a mix of lipstick, powder, raw potatoes and carrot. Try to find a common denominator in iris prominent scents and this is what iris smells like. Rumour has it that Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist contains any possible iris note from all sources available. Ideally if you can get a sample of this, you get a pretty idea of what iris smells like.

I agree - this is how I got iris, too - the common denominator method. I had smelled TDC Bois d'Iris, and noticed this peculiar damp/wet/musty odor, but I wasn't sure what it was. Then, I sniffed as many of the new Prada scents as I could get my hands on. BINGO. Iris all over the place, and it was that same smell in BdI. Now I can spot it anywhere.
post #6 of 28
I'd suggest just going to your local greenhouse to smell the real thing, I'm lucky as my mom grows them in the summer along the side of our house and I can tell you they're wonderful. I'll admit though that Iris Silver Mist is pretty damn good!
post #7 of 28
Just a quick, rather off-topic observation: if iris smells like a mix of lipstick, powder, raw potatoes and carrot, then I surely can sense ALL of these notes in Dior Homme.
post #8 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by warlandsboy View Post

I'd suggest just going to your local greenhouse to smell the real thing, I'm lucky as my mom grows them in the summer along the side of our house and I can tell you they're wonderful. I'll admit though that Iris Silver Mist is pretty damn good!

I am not sure this would work... Iris flowers are odourless and although iris is cosnidered a floral note, the iris extract comes from the root, not the flower. Something similar is true about geranium note. It gives a floral qulaity but is isolated from the leaves of the plant.
post #9 of 28
Iris silver mist is iris to the maximum power
post #10 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by dredmahawkus View Post

Iris silver mist is iris to the maximum power

...but manages to remain understated, reserved, unattainable and this is trully a master's achievment.
post #11 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by warlandsboy View Post

I'd suggest just going to your local greenhouse to smell the real thing, I'm lucky as my mom grows them in the summer along the side of our house and I can tell you they're wonderful. I'll admit though that Iris Silver Mist is pretty damn good!

Yeah, no.

The scent comes from the roots after being dried for years.
post #12 of 28
I find that often, for me at least, iris is used in fragrance to provide the frag a texture, rather than an overall scent. Of course there are many exceptions to this rule, and most fragrances with iris in their name highlight one of the many facets of the iris, Iris Silver Mist (rooty, carroty), Bois d'Iris (woody), Dior Homme (lipstick, gourmand), Infusion d'Iris (soapy). The easiest way to identify iris for myself, is by identifying the fragrances that have a powdery "feel" to them. This is very different, than fragrances that "smell" powdery or are associated with powdery products. A prime example for me is Vetiver Oriental, where on my skin the iris is overwhelming, and gives the whole composition a unique powdery texture.
post #13 of 28
If you guys want to check out the actual patent for this accelerated process for aging the rhizomes, it's here (you need to get a free login).

It's brilliant. They basically NUKE 'em with badass radiation, and the aging is done in DAYS. Elegant, clean, no radiation in the product (to calm the worries of anybody who doesn't understand gamma irradiation). I had suspected that they could simply isolate the larger molecules that are broken down to form the good smellies (the irones), and then perform the oxidation synthetically. But by just zapping the things, presumably the same enzymes and whatnot that help pull it off normally are still there to help do the job. Very slick idea.

I still remain curious, however, if a sensitive nose could pick up irones from the flowers, where (if it's present) air oxidation of the same triterpenoid precursor (big molecule) could in principle occur, albeit not enough for most people, and particularly not enough for use in perfumery. So with that question, as a pesky scientist who likes to re-ask answered questions to learn more... Are there any others here who think they catch ANY iris odor from flowers - noting that not all iris variants have the same distribution of aromachemicals.

[Edit added: I personally have never been able to detect the iris scent from the flowers, but my nose is not particularly sensitive to it, and I sniffed most iris plants BEFORE I was good at identifying it. Also, I should add that I'm hypersensitive to violet and violet leaf, so I tend to be sympathetic to the idea that some folks might be able to get it.]
post #14 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwatts88 View Post

Yeah, no.

The scent comes from the roots after being dried for years.

Some of the older varieties of the tall bearded English Iris (Iris germanica) have deliciously scented flowers - they are the blue & purple ones with very large but fragile flowers - scent is slightly sherbert/fizzy/powdery/plummy /sorry can't describe it (but you need to bury your nose)!
Have grown I. florentina & couldn't really notice much scent in the flowers.

The original 'Caleche' had this very evasive & transient quality, but it has long disappeared due to re-formulations and was nothing like the heavier, sweeter iris in H'iris.

Any suggestions re. similar scents would be much appreciated!
post #15 of 28
If anyone is interested in learing more about iris: http://aleph0.clarku.edu/~djoyce/iris/soc.html#AIS this link is a listing of iris societies all over the world.

This link is for the American Iris Society: http://www.irises.org/links.htm#Iris...and Reference:.

Many varieties are fragrant, some even rebloom. The scent is best detected when the iris are planted en masse. I hope you all find this helpful.
post #16 of 28
I wonder who ever came up with the idea to pulverize Iris roots and use it as a scent?

I do love the smell of bearded Iris blossoms. Reminds of childhood and Easter!
post #17 of 28
If you smell Prada IdH and dior homme side by side.. you'll get a common accord.. that's iris
post #18 of 28
I'd reccomend Hiris of Hermès to get a thorough understanding of the "Iris" note. It's a soliflore and has a subtle mouldy and slightly earthy character to it. Iris means having to think the bulb with the bloom.
post #19 of 28
Roja Dove says some interesting things about orris root in his book The Essence of Perfume. I posted to my blog about it, here.

He describes the odor as "woody, violet-like," and "fatty" or "powdery."
post #20 of 28
I always get a powdery, soapy scent from iris. It often smells like quite dusty (i know this sounds weird does dust even have a smell or am I just crazy?)
post #21 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Critic View Post

If you smell Prada IdH and dior homme side by side.. you'll get a common accord.. that's iris

Thanks - will do!
post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevolution View Post

I wonder who ever came up with the idea to pulverize Iris roots and use it as a scent?

I do love the smell of bearded Iris blossoms. Reminds of childhood and Easter!

Exactly! (but later than Easter here).
post #23 of 28
L.T. Piver Floramye (1905) is an orris centered fragrance. It smells as expected oily/fatty, violet, carrot, spicey. Often used to scent powder. Compared to contemporary compositions it is very rich and soft. There's a source in Holland for it, 15$/110ml ... .
post #24 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpp View Post

Some of the older varieties of the tall bearded English Iris (Iris germanica) have deliciously scented flowers - they are the blue & purple ones with very large but fragile flowers - scent is slightly sherbert/fizzy/powdery/plummy /sorry can't describe it (but you need to bury your nose)!

This is very true! There are folks who say that flowers like carnations and irises have no scent, but they just haven't experienced the right varieties.

Irises the flowers smell nothing like iris the fragrance note. They have a fruity, plummy, grape-pop quality like jasmine with the fruit turned on high. It's really nice. The only fragrances I've tried that have something approaching an iris flower note are Alien, Iquitos, and the modern formulation of Poison.

I'd love it if some iris breeder started growing some super-heady iris flowers.
post #25 of 28
Even more to try - thanks!
post #26 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpp View Post

Even more to try - thanks!

If it was me - Floramye is a must, I think. It is nowadays not related to any real orris at all, but pure synthetic I bet. But it's style, it's skeleton is still very different to the kind of fragrances which are made today. There is no catchy edge in it, no twist, nothing fresh but the literally simple message is luxury. Fat richness, arrogant spiciness, heavy on flower, golden, but not oriental at all. As a man I wear it with great pleasure due to its predictive to bold attitude. The source is a barbershop dealing online too - may be You find it.

Have Fun!
post #27 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post

If it was me - Floramye is a must, I think. It is nowadays not related to any real orris at all, but pure synthetic I bet. But it's style, it's skeleton is still very different to the kind of fragrances which are made today. There is no catchy edge in it, no twist, nothing fresh but the literally simple message is luxury. Fat richness, arrogant spiciness, heavy on flower, golden, but not oriental at all. As a man I wear it with great pleasure due to its predictive to bold attitude. The source is a barbershop dealing online too - may be You find it.

Have Fun!

Thank you!
post #28 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpp View Post

Thank you!

'Just looked up the page again, not easy to find:

http://www.winkelplein.nl/barbershop...TnmfPUxekXVJSN

It's in the EEC, customs free.
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