Top Note: Lemon, Bergamot, Neroli, Blackcurrant
Middle Note: Carnation, Violet, Mimosa, Sandalwood
Base Note: Vanilla, Benzoin, Orris Root, Heliotrope
A classical ambery floral from the hand of Jacques Guerlain, the master himself! This one is quite a voyage, in a couple of ways. This is an olfactory journey of elegant, gentle turns and subtle surprises. Right at the beginning, the gentle clove-scented hint of carnation begins to appear, even as the top notes are still unfolding. The violet and cassie are subtly piquant, prefiguring and blending with the carnation, a prolepsis of future charm. The white florals, jasmine, ylang, and neroli, form a chord, broken across the top and middle notes. The mimosa in the heart echoes the cassie-acacia in the head. Heliotrope in the base picks up from the headier florals above and anchors them along with it in a sweet bed of amber, vanilla, and musk. The journey is smooth, a stately development and interlacing of themes: hesperides, acacias, white florals, rose, oriental notes, and the gentlest animalic touch of musk. It can be a pleasure to renew acquaintance with the lost art of a true master, as was Jacques Guerlain. This is a perfume for today, but, sadly, I feel it would never have been made today. Yet the secret of a classic is that it, too, lives in the land of no-time, where the passing of hours, days, and years cannot touch it; where it is beyond the reach of decay and loss.