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Marc de la Morandiere, Anyone?

post #1 of 16
1/20/10 at 9:46pm
Thread Starter 
I just received a bottle of Marc de la Morandiere's Bleu de Chine in a swap, and I am stupefied by its quality!!
It is a hard-hitting 'perfumey' green like Metal, Givenchy III, and Cristalle, but also has a rich animalic, slightly leather drydown ala vintage Miss Balmain. It's even slightly reminiscent of Diorella in this phase, though more "perfumed".

It's also got a good dose of galbanum, which I love. Gosh, I am thinking this is a contender for favorite vintage ever!

It's insanely good; I am scraping up to get more, and I am, of course, very curious now about the rest of the line.

Are any of you familiar with other scent's from this house? I understand it's not sold much outside of France and is quite pricey???

Anyone? I'd love to try more, but I want a little guidance!

Any help appreciated.

Look at this GORGEOUS flagon!

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post #2 of 16
1/20/10 at 9:56pm
I had this one a long time ago. He also had another favorite of mine Sissi. A scent inspired by and using essences loved by Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria. She was called Sissi for short.
He also had other scents, which were very nice also, but Bleu de Chine and Sissi were my favorites.
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post #3 of 16
1/20/10 at 10:00pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you, Brielle. I hoped you'd reply, as if anyone might know these, it'd probably be you.
I shall look for Sissi.
Do you know anything about the reformulation of BdC in 94, should I seek vintage bottles? And how might I identify one?
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post #4 of 16
1/20/10 at 10:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

Thank you, Brielle. I hoped you'd reply, as if anyone might know these, it'd probably be you.
I shall look for Sissi.
Do you know anything about the reformulation of BdC in 94, should I seek vintage bottles? And how might I identify one?

I really did not know about the reformulation, seems to happen to everything though. I have not worn it since the 90's, so it was probably the older version that I had. I would not have any clue as to how one would identify a vintage bottle, the bottle always looks the same.

If you end up looking for Sissi, it is a much sweeter scent, not a gourmand, but a sweet floral scent.
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post #5 of 16
6/9/10 at 7:54pm
Bought Sissi on a whim, really grand floral, isn't it. Heavy on the hyacinths and jasmine altogether a very lovely floral. And indeed, you are so correct, Brielle, it is a sweetie. Glad I found it cheaply on ebay and I'm hoping it does well in the heat!
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post #6 of 16
6/9/10 at 10:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post

Bought Sissi on a whim, really grand floral, isn't it. Heavy on the hyacinths and jasmine altogether a very lovely floral. And indeed, you are so correct, Brielle, it is a sweetie. Glad I found it cheaply on ebay and I'm hoping it does well in the heat!

It is such a lovely floral. I think it will be glorious in the heat. I love BIG florals in the summer, they just seem to "work".
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post #7 of 16
6/10/10 at 3:17am
The reformulation of 1995 (I think) was a big, no huge blow for Bleu de China -- the heady jasmine is gone, so are the animalic elements, together with the overall feeling of cool and dark. Now it is a sweet while non-descript floral with some greenness. I used to own and love the old one, however. Well, to tell you the whole truth, I even wrote to the French Parfumeurs Association regarding the availability of the old scent back in the day (1999?) and they have never responded. I was so impressed by the old scent that I had to have a teaser about it:

High on the mountain peak
Infinity in all directions.
This solitary moon looks down
Admiring its reflections in the icy pond.

In fragrant mist of clear moonlight
An old cypress stands,
Glistening with raindrops
Of ghostly gorges.

Burning bamboo smoke vanishes...
The swallows gathering herbs remember
Brocade carpet of homeland jasmine
That must be in bloom.

Sunlight bright sighs
About midnight rain.
_______

I have tried and liked Sissi.
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post #8 of 16
6/10/10 at 6:42am
M Morandiere said he plans on expanding availability in US and on web. I wish he'd make the scents here so he could moss them up for us, but that is probably too much to ask..sigh.

I wonder if the EU rules ban importing oakmossy scents, or just the manufacture?
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post #9 of 16
6/10/10 at 6:49am
There's another de la Morandiere fragrance that has a lot of the guys all excited: Gengis Khan.

Very nice, deeply spicey, male-marketed.
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post #10 of 16
6/10/10 at 7:47am
I have a mini of Bleu de Chine from years ago. I gave it three stars here, but I can't imagine why because I don't recall it at all. It's a tiny mini, so perhaps I didn't give it enough of a wearing to be fair, but I'll give it another try this afternoon. Thanks again, Hillaire - you have a knack for pointing me to wonderful fragrances that are right under my nose, and that doesn't cost me a thing!
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post #11 of 16
6/10/10 at 9:16am
Twolf - your teasers are so impressive, and quite beautiful! Why don't you do them anymore?
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post #12 of 16
6/10/10 at 12:05pm
Got out of inspiration back then. Not too many people were participating in guessing/discussion. Thanks for your kind words.
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post #13 of 16
6/10/10 at 6:14pm
I had 2 from the Men's side.....I finished one and still have M for Men.....Very nice.....I never got too excited with these because I could never find refills.....That sounds like it might change.....Gary
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post #14 of 16
6/10/10 at 6:19pm
I had to think of the name of the one that I finished.....It was MdM.....I liked this one best of the 2 that I've had.....I purchased these at Saks around 15 years ago!!!
Gary
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post #15 of 16
6/2/11 at 7:57am
Any one know where this is distributed Genghis Khan (1990) by Marc de la Morandier, also Bleu de Chine?
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post #16 of 16
6/2/11 at 9:39am
Bought a bottle of Genghis Khan in the mid '90s. The bottle itself is a stunner - it looks like an artifact from a burial mound on the steppes of Central Asia. Saying that this scent is spicy is an understatement. This is serious, serious Spice. No gourmand vanilla-infused potpourri "spicy notes". This is the stuff that was conveyed laboriously via camel-back and long ocean voyages and commanded an emperor's ransom. Cardamom, ginger, black pepper and nutmeg strong enough to make your pupils dilate and your spine crackle. There is a woody middle-to-base accord that is deep and solemn. I suspect a trace of agarwood in there too, since the scent reminds me of that particular sandalwood-agarwood blend that is prevalent in a great deal of Chinese and Japanese temple incense.

I've worn Genghis Khan in both cold and hot temperatures. It smells best in very, very dry conditions - humidity would make it stifling.

Strictly for males? Hmmm, almost a "yes". It doesn't straddle the divide, it's definitely in testosterone country. More butch than Costes or Elixir by Penhaligon. But if you wear and love MKK, Bandit, etc., you'll feel perfectly at ease with it.
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