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Douce Amère by Serge Lutens - Feminine, Unisex or Masculine?

post #1 of 17
2/9/10 at 11:58am
Thread Starter 
As much as I can appreciate the sentiment, I'm not looking for the usual responses advising me to not focus on gender labels and just wear what I like. The fact is that I enjoy truly unisex fragrances, like my beloved Chergui, but I've found that I really don't like those scents that tilt over the line to the femme side of things. At the same time, I'm not a huge fan of extremely masculine scents either.

To better illustrate my frame of reference, at least two of the frags on my Top 5 list are marketed as masculine (e.g., Eau Noire and Lumière Noire pour Homme) but could probably be classified as unisex. However, I don't consider either of them to be feminine in the least.

Anyway, getting back to my original question, I plan on trying Douce Amère for myself at some point but until then I'd like a sneak preview. How would you classify it?
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post #2 of 17
2/9/10 at 12:18pm
I guess it's unisex, nothing screams either way for me. But on the scent, I really don't like it, such a bizarre combo of bitter and smooth, it doesn't work at all to my nose.
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post #3 of 17
2/9/10 at 12:49pm
Another vote for unisex, though the smell somehow reminds me of makeup and you might find the drydown too sweet.
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post #4 of 17
2/9/10 at 12:50pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cors View Post

Another vote for unisex, though the smell somehow reminds me of makeup to me and you might find the drydown too sweet.

It smells like makeup? You couldn't have said anything that would turn me off more! Too bad...
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post #5 of 17
2/9/10 at 12:52pm
I think it's unisex and I find it a most accessible Lutens. Douce Amère is a fitting name, as sweet and bitter really balance each other well, thus avoiding excessive syrup-connotations or harshness. It's definitely soft in general, though and works best for me in autumn/winter with leisurely attire (think cashmere)
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post #6 of 17
2/9/10 at 1:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WindyCity1014 View Post

To better illustrate my frame of reference, at least two of the frags on my Top 5 list are marketed as masculine (e.g., Eau Noire and Lumière Noire pour Homme) but could probably be classified as unisex. However, I don't consider either of them to be feminine in the least.

To me, Eau Noire smells like a macho, macho man fragrance. I think it's a clone of Czech and Speake's Cuba. tobacco overload. Chergui also feels completely masculine in its presentation of notes. I find Lumière Noire to be gender neutral, but the gender gauge arrow leans more towards the feminine with Douce Amère, IMHO.
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post #7 of 17
2/9/10 at 1:55pm
+1 Unisex.

I don't think it smells like makeup at all.
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post #8 of 17
2/9/10 at 3:14pm
I wear it so I vote Unisex.
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post #9 of 17
2/9/10 at 4:50pm
I love it - and it doesn't smell like make-up to me. It has a very similar, Lutens-y drydown to Chergui. I ordered a bottle from Barney's. Better hurry if you want it - it's been discontinued.
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post #10 of 17
2/9/10 at 7:43pm
Totally unisex
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post #11 of 17
2/9/10 at 7:59pm
Windycity, I agree that it is totally unisex. The drydown is sweet, and the journey to get there is beautiful. It is not like Chergui, but it is not that different in feel. Worth a try for sure.
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post #12 of 17
2/9/10 at 8:15pm
Unisex. Doesn't smell like makeup to me.
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post #13 of 17
2/10/10 at 12:09am
Five years ago, when I first tried it together with other Serge Lutens perfumes it didn't even occur to me that I was smelling anything but a feminine. I wanted to re-sample it just now, but unfortunately the sample vial had meanwhile released its content into the nowhere...

Originally I felt reminded of the flower carrying the same name and of its natural environment, our woods at medium altitude. That impression has been a lasting one, it seems. The flower's Latin name says exactly the same as DA: solanum dulcamare. And Dulcamare is also the name of that quack in L'Elisir d'Amore who sells ordinary wine as a singular love potion made in accordance with a 'secret formula' ...
I expect Lutens knew this flower when he named the perfume, and it appears more than likely that he also knew the very name in context with (French) literature and art.

Some of you may enjoy Helg's(?) review on Perfume Shrine - my favorite.

Update regarding the announced discontinuation of SL perfumes / Feb 8, 2010
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post #14 of 17
2/10/10 at 12:29am
I own Douce Amere going back awhile, then all the SL's where classed as unisex. It seems only in recent years retailers etc are calling certain ones feminine. Douce Amere has never been in that group, like Chergui it is universal.

It smells nothing like any makeup I have bought or wore and I am a makeup junkie brand wise.
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post #15 of 17
2/10/10 at 12:33am
DA has amazing opening notes. But the drydown is quite feminin and...too simple for me.
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post #16 of 17
2/10/10 at 5:41am
Unisex, most definitely. It's licorice felt pretty heavy to my nose though.
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post #17 of 17
1/29/11 at 11:41pm
Do you believe that this is a cloying perfume? Does standing on a man decently?
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