When I first heard some time in 2009 that Histoires de Parfums would be releasing a fragrance revolving around the tuberose, I couldn’t help but got all excited. Tuberose to me is an exotic flower with alluringly sensual undertones. If ever I were to entrust a fragrance house with the task of capturing this very essence in a wearable fragrance, it would likely be Histoires de Parfums. With a string of seductive baroque-inspired scents already under its belt, a creative endeavor involving tuberose seems like a match made in heaven. I am thus thrilled to discover the house has come up not with one but THREE tuberose-inspired scents – The Tuberose Trilogy.
TUBEREUSE 1 - Capriceuse
Notes: tuberose, iris, bergamot, saffron, ylang-ylang, cocoa, suede
The first of these is Capriceuse or Capricious. With the connotation on unpredictability or impulsiveness, I am not particularly surprised to find a doughy note of iris greeting my nose right from the very first whiff. But the tuberose blooms soon after - slightly indolic but far from heady, with ylang-ylang adding just the right touch of sweetness. I do wish the tuberose is a little richer but that's hardly surprising considering I'm such a fan of this nocturnal flower.
As the scent develops a hint of suede grows apparent but somehow remains firmly in the background and avoids turning this into yet another floral suede/leather-type of scent. I’m not very familiar with the saffron note so I cannot confirm if the tiny spice note I detect up close is indeed saffron. The cocoa too comes up only as a smidgen late in the drydown.
In the end what I smell here mostly is a refined blend of tuberose and iris over soft suede, with the selection of iris as partner to the tuberose being particularly inspired. Capricious only in its gender appeal, I find Capricieuse beguilingly seductive for its sillage invites the nose to nuzzle right up to the skin of its wearer.
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The scented journey continues... Will post back some time later with thoughts on Virginale and Animale.
Edit:
TUBEREUSE 2 - Virginale
Notes: tuberose, mandarin, cherry, tiare, jasmine, frangipani, patchouli, blond wood, vanilla
On my skin, the citrus note of mandarin fails to materialize while the bitter-sweetness of cherry seems to have submerged under the somewhat heady family of white florals. Unfortunately the tuberose does not stand out either. Instead, a sweet caramelized vanilla laced with earthy patchouli and cedarwood shine right through, resulting in a floral fragrance that feels decidedly tropical and feminine in character.
Nothing groundbreaking to report here considering the white floral-and-woods-layer-over-vanilla is a well-populated genre. In fact the whole composition is rather reminiscent of Kenzo’s FlowerByKenzo Essentialle, only less sweet.
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Next.... Animale.
TUBEREUSE 3 - Animale
Notes: tuberose, neroli, kumquat, prune, dry herbs, blond tobacco, immortelle
With a name like Animale, I was half-expecting a roar of a beginning. But all I got was a low growl. Not a drop of civet to be found here though a little castoreum or labdanum may be responsible for the musky leathery presence that lurks around the edges of a tuberose bouquet a little way past its prime.
As the scent descends into its heart, I catch hints of salty plum-like notes doing a John Varvatos but these feel more like bit players. Even the immortelle seems much more subdued than it does in 1740.
The star player, at least to me, has to be the blond tobacco. Its creamy-smoky richness blends flawlessly with the tuberose to create one intoxicating scent that places Animale alongside the likes of Sonoma Scent Tabac Aurea, Lutens Daim Blond, Chanel Cuir de Russie and quite possibly Caron Tabac Blond.
But I didn't find any animal in the end.
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TUBEREUSE 1 - Capriceuse
Notes: tuberose, iris, bergamot, saffron, ylang-ylang, cocoa, suede
The first of these is Capriceuse or Capricious. With the connotation on unpredictability or impulsiveness, I am not particularly surprised to find a doughy note of iris greeting my nose right from the very first whiff. But the tuberose blooms soon after - slightly indolic but far from heady, with ylang-ylang adding just the right touch of sweetness. I do wish the tuberose is a little richer but that's hardly surprising considering I'm such a fan of this nocturnal flower.
As the scent develops a hint of suede grows apparent but somehow remains firmly in the background and avoids turning this into yet another floral suede/leather-type of scent. I’m not very familiar with the saffron note so I cannot confirm if the tiny spice note I detect up close is indeed saffron. The cocoa too comes up only as a smidgen late in the drydown.
In the end what I smell here mostly is a refined blend of tuberose and iris over soft suede, with the selection of iris as partner to the tuberose being particularly inspired. Capricious only in its gender appeal, I find Capricieuse beguilingly seductive for its sillage invites the nose to nuzzle right up to the skin of its wearer.
************************************************** ****************
The scented journey continues... Will post back some time later with thoughts on Virginale and Animale.
Edit:
TUBEREUSE 2 - Virginale
Notes: tuberose, mandarin, cherry, tiare, jasmine, frangipani, patchouli, blond wood, vanilla
On my skin, the citrus note of mandarin fails to materialize while the bitter-sweetness of cherry seems to have submerged under the somewhat heady family of white florals. Unfortunately the tuberose does not stand out either. Instead, a sweet caramelized vanilla laced with earthy patchouli and cedarwood shine right through, resulting in a floral fragrance that feels decidedly tropical and feminine in character.
Nothing groundbreaking to report here considering the white floral-and-woods-layer-over-vanilla is a well-populated genre. In fact the whole composition is rather reminiscent of Kenzo’s FlowerByKenzo Essentialle, only less sweet.
************************************************** ****************
Next.... Animale.
TUBEREUSE 3 - Animale
Notes: tuberose, neroli, kumquat, prune, dry herbs, blond tobacco, immortelle
With a name like Animale, I was half-expecting a roar of a beginning. But all I got was a low growl. Not a drop of civet to be found here though a little castoreum or labdanum may be responsible for the musky leathery presence that lurks around the edges of a tuberose bouquet a little way past its prime.
As the scent descends into its heart, I catch hints of salty plum-like notes doing a John Varvatos but these feel more like bit players. Even the immortelle seems much more subdued than it does in 1740.
The star player, at least to me, has to be the blond tobacco. Its creamy-smoky richness blends flawlessly with the tuberose to create one intoxicating scent that places Animale alongside the likes of Sonoma Scent Tabac Aurea, Lutens Daim Blond, Chanel Cuir de Russie and quite possibly Caron Tabac Blond.
But I didn't find any animal in the end.
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