Quote:
Originally Posted by
Sunnyfunny 
I thought of BdI as oriental, as well, but how do some woods make something chypre and others oriental? And how does the pink come into play? I'm doing a side-by-side of BdI & 31 RC right now, and the former feels a bit like the latter through a very soft-focus lens. I prefer 31 RC, as it is more assertive all around. They must share some notes, though, because they smell so similar to me! BdI is creamier, but both seem to have a vanilla/amber/sandalwood thing.
I'm no expert. I think the "pink" designation is because there is no
oakmoss. Instead, while the effect is still tangy, there is a lighter approach and in this case, the juice is actually pink. It's not a green effect as with most chypres, though.
It's possible that
BdI shares some notes with
#31. I haven't done any comparisons. They are both
Chanel, so that probably accounts for a lot of it.
It's just my opinion, but I think a 'real' chypre needs some sharp citrus or grass notes such as
galbanum,
vetiver,
bergamot; etc. and
oakmoss or a good simulation is a must. Most of the current formulations that are being called chypres really aren't. They have too many oriental woods & spices to qualify. That tends too push them into a sweet zone rather than the green/tangy area.