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Musky Morillas! Ethereal Ellena! Perfumers and their styles.

post #1 of 10
3/6/10 at 7:35pm
Thread Starter 
Some perfumers have certain stylistic preferences, notes, etc. that almost become their signature.

Name a perfumer and one of these signatures that you associate with them. Note that their signature may/need not be present in *every* one of their scents, but should be generally recognizable.

I'll start.

Alberto Morillas - I consider him the master of musk (although I can see how many may see him as a musk villian!). The bases of his scents are often filled with large doses of various musks, often laundry detergent'ish. He tends to produce designer oriented scents, but has produced some of the finest in the last 10-15 years, imo. Some notables are: AdG for Him, Versace PH, M7 [w/ Cavallier], 212, NR Essence, Mugler Cologne, Armani Vetiver Babylone, Colonia Intensa [w/ Francois Demachy])
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post #2 of 10
3/6/10 at 9:13pm
I didn't smell most of her creations yet, but according to those I did and the notes listed in the fragrances she made, Annick Menardo seems to well like the warmth in a fragrance, a bit gourmand but not nauseating, always well counterbalanced, I like that style ! Often vanilla note, and oriental spices.
I agree with you about Alberto Morillas cleanish-laundry style made of, apparently, lot of varied musks. He produced some of my fav's and I'm always amazed at his interpretation of cleanliness, I like to "just smell clean" in an unique way.
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post #3 of 10
3/6/10 at 11:16pm
Morillas is definitely the king of fresh - and he's quite good at making musk smell clean, in a unique way.

Francis Kurkdjian is all about emotion and drama for me. His fragrances tend to be so unique and bold, that they haunt you. Due to this, they don't strike me as everyday workhorse fragrances at all.

Pierre Bourdon is the jack of all trades - countless masterpieces, with none of them smelling like the next or the last.

Christopher Sheldrake is all about opulence and extravagance. The fragrance equivalent to blasting your favorite CD and rocking out to it with the windows open and a crowd of people staring at you - and loving it.

As an honorable mention that is kind of a tangent to the topic, Francois Demachy is the king of flankers that are as good, if not better than the originals (Dior Homme Cologne, Fahrenheit 32/Absolute, Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir, etc)
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post #4 of 10
3/6/10 at 11:22pm
Thread Starter 
Another thing I've noticed in Kurkdjian's style is that there are rarely harsh edges. All of his fragrances seem rather soft and have this smoothing effect that seamlessly blends the notes together. I'd say it is similar to the effect using watercolors has when painting, but his compositions are denser than a watercolor equivalent. Perhaps it is more accurate to describe it as a similar effect to that of applying motion blur to an otherwise sharp, perhaps even high contrast image. Definitely more Van Gogh impressionistic than realistic. Many of his scents have a powdery texture to them, too, and I think this relates heavily to the effect I'm mentioning above.
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post #5 of 10
3/6/10 at 11:26pm
Olivia Giacobetti has a very distinctive style, to my nose. Whatever she creates, she does it with subtle colors and a certain ethereal twist. Elixir, En Passant, even Idole come to mind.
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post #6 of 10
3/7/10 at 12:25am
JC Ellena: He rarely does abtract scents. Most of his scents are inspired by nature. They have a heavy, yet transparent feel to it.
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post #7 of 10
3/7/10 at 2:11am
Jacques Polge- dark, edgy sophistication, with an immense note of tasteful and slightly down-to-earth, slightly ethereal, almost poetic sensuality; two very illustrative examples immediately come to my mind: Chanel Antaeus and Ungaro III
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post #8 of 10
3/7/10 at 11:35am
Maurice Roucel:
L O U D !
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post #9 of 10
3/7/10 at 2:30pm
For some reason, I have had a few Annick Menardo fragrances. I guess they are just easily accessible and good. She seems to like warmth ( as Scentational mentioned). Vanilla ? You bet !
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post #10 of 10
3/7/10 at 3:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Some perfumers have certain stylistic preferences, ...

Germaine Cellier: "two" - means contrast.



Like Hard Edge in painting, late 50s to 60s. Frank Stella, Robert India etc:

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