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I prefer the NEW Mitsouko greatly !!!!!

post #1 of 28
3/9/10 at 2:07pm
Thread Starter 
The first time I smelt Mitsouko was actually from a vintage parfum I bought blind from ebay about two years ago. It smelt like something I've smelt before a hundred times -- an old school chypre. I understood the infamous peach note and the aldehydes along with the resinous oakmoss. To me, vintage Mitsouko, is an entirely different fragrance from today's version. The vintage was silky smooth and drenched in oakmoss, while today's version is harsher with vetiver and treemoss and the peachiness is greatly pronounced. While I would rate vintage Mitsouko 10/10, the new one (EDP) is a 20 on that scale. I absolutely love it to death. I adore it. I can't imagine being without it. You get my point lol! I'm guessing the reason why I love the modern version MUCH more than the vintage is because I find it similiar to a lot of vintage chypres of that era. Vintage Rochas Femme is basically a leathery Mitsouko, AdP Profumo a drier chypre with more of a plum note and my most recent blind buy, Que Sais Je, which is the closest I've found to vintage Mitsouko. Their isn't anything out there today that smells exactly like the newer version. I guess that's why I love it so much more. MDCI's Envelement au Serail is similiar but with a cheese-indole jasmine fest going on in the heart, 31 Rue Cambon has a similiar drydown along with Attrape Couer. But the newer version is very, very distinctive. I also find the new EDP to have acceptional longevity and insane sillage (on clothes).

I can see how and empathize with people who have gotten accustomed to vintage Mitsouko about their dismay towards the new version. I expect I'll be a minority here, but I want to hear your thoughts towards today's version.
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post #2 of 28
3/9/10 at 5:14pm
I've never smelt the vintage version, but the current EDP is so good, I don't know how it could be any better without being different entirely! It is interesting to see appreciation of a reformulation :O

Great post!
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post #3 of 28
3/9/10 at 7:51pm
Thread Starter 
I know! I would die if they reformulated the reformulation lol!
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post #4 of 28
3/9/10 at 9:23pm
I prefer the new reformulation extrait to the new formulation EDP, but I hope some day the EDP will grow on me. The extrait starts similarly but with more leather and less peach. Later in the drydown, the vetiver is smoky/ashy, and I love that note, but don't smell it as much in the EDP.
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post #5 of 28
3/9/10 at 9:23pm
Nice to hear positive comments about reformulated classics. I, for one, love the reformulated Rochas Femme, even though everyone and their mother claims the vintage version is superior by miles. Fine, find me a vintage bottle, go through the rigamarole of fighting tooth and nail with other 'fumeheads on eBay for a precious half-ounce of the stuff - until then I'll enjoy the new one.

Have smelled neither Mitsouko, but after reading this I'm no longer expecting a disappointment with the new version.
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post #6 of 28
3/9/10 at 9:28pm
I LOVE the reformulated EDP... the vintage EDT doesn't work for me. I'd love to test the reform. extrait. (see my Mitsuoko review, of the reformulated EDP)
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post #7 of 28
3/9/10 at 9:53pm
I also prefer the new extrait now after much lamenting about the loss of the vintage. I will now have to eat my words ! *LOL*

Both are beautiful to me but I love the new extrait now. I also love the EDP but not the EDT.
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post #8 of 28
3/9/10 at 10:00pm
I guess all I can say further about the reformulated EDP is...

The Guerlinade is strong in this one.

(but seriously... I like it a lot. Love it, actually.)
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post #9 of 28
3/9/10 at 10:45pm
I don't necessarily prefer one over the other, but I do enjoy the current EDP formulation. Mitsouko simply rocks!
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post #10 of 28
3/9/10 at 11:01pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asha View Post

I prefer the new reformulation extrait to the new formulation EDP, but I hope some day the EDP will grow on me. The extrait starts similarly but with more leather and less peach. Later in the drydown, the vetiver is smoky/ashy, and I love that note, but don't smell it as much in the EDP.


I guess the intense bread-soaked peach pudding along with the vetiver drydown is what I love so much. I never gave the new parfum justice; I'll have to try it again...I'm sure I'll be just as smitten!
BTW, how is the longevity and sillage of the parfum?

Quote:
Originally Posted by subhuman85 View Post

Nice to hear positive comments about reformulated classics. I, for one, love the reformulated Rochas Femme, even though everyone and their mother claims the vintage version is superior by miles. Fine, find me a vintage bottle, go through the rigamarole of fighting tooth and nail with other 'fumeheads on eBay for a precious half-ounce of the stuff - until then I'll enjoy the new one.

Have smelled neither Mitsouko, but after reading this I'm no longer expecting a disappointment with the new version.

I love vintage Femme and also the reformulated one (which is more chypre-like than vintage). If you get a chance, try Peau d'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella. It has an extremely similiar musty, animalic leather that you find in vintage Femme but without the peach note. Oh...and you have to try the current Mitsouko EDP

Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

I also prefer the new extrait now after much lamenting about the loss of the vintage. I will now have to eat my words ! *LOL*

Both are beautiful to me but I love the new extrait now. I also love the EDP but not the EDT.

I don't really care for the EDT. It's nice and all, but doesn't really satisfy me the way the EDP does with it's intense resinous-peach note. I have to try the parfum again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by actiasluna View Post

I guess all I can say further about the reformulated EDP is...

The Guerlinade is strong in this one.

(but seriously... I like it a lot. Love it, actually.)

I suspect Mitsouko has a bit of vanilla because I also get a strong Guerlinade also in the EDP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post

I don't necessarily prefer one over the other, but I do enjoy the current EDP formulation. Mitsouko simply rocks!

It sure does
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post #11 of 28
3/9/10 at 11:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scent View Post

.... To me, vintage Mitsouko, is an entirely different fragrance from today's version. The vintage was silky smooth and drenched in oakmoss, while today's version is harsher with vetiver and treemoss and the peachiness is greatly pronounced. While I would rate vintage Mitsouko 10/10, the new one (EDP) is a 20 on that scale. I absolutely love it to death. I adore it. I can't imagine being without it. You get my point lol! I'm guessing the reason why I love the modern version MUCH more than the vintage is because I find it similiar to a lot of vintage chypres of that era. ...

The new one (EDP) - I am not sure if i know how new is 'new' here, scent. Would it be possible for you to specify a year (period) of the version you are talking about? Maybe I have to go and sample the very latest.
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post #12 of 28
3/9/10 at 11:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

The new one (EDP) - I am not sure if i know how new is 'new' here, scent. Would it be possible for you to specify a year (period) of the version you are talking about? Maybe I have to go and sample the very latest.

I believe Mitsouko was reformulated in the early to mid 2000's (Mr. G feel free to chime in any second ). I bought my EDP about a year ago, and it is the latest oakmoss-free version (it came in the striped gold and beige box).

PS: The vintage parfum I have is most likely from the late 60's.
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post #13 of 28
3/11/10 at 12:38pm
It is indeed refreshing to read a pro new Mitsouko thread!

The life of this fragrance seems as mysterious as the scent itself. I own a number of different Mitsoukos both in terms of concentration and age, and they all differ greatly. Some differences are surely due to age, others seems like a reformulation thing. I assume the fragrance has been reformulated many times since 1919. Already in 2004, treemoss was listed on the boxes, but the fragrance smelled very different from today, still tender and oakmossy, and quite spicy. Older versions smell less spicy and more woody-mossy - again could be the age factor.

I like the new Mitsouko too, it's a more rugged and rough version, it seems more simple and green - more masculine? The "breast reduction reformulation" that Turin claims all classic feminines have witnessed lately?

My preferred editions of Mitsouko are from the period circa 1990-2006, just before the last "green-rugged" change. It was bold and spicy but with a mellow mix of cedarwood and oakmoss behind that I love to wait for. The new version is very special too, nothing like it, and I love it on its own, but the transition from top to base is just... well it just isn't as refined as before. I think.
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post #14 of 28
3/11/10 at 1:16pm
I generally prefer older Mitsouko formulations because of their softness and depth, but what makes Mitsouko so special is that combination of tangy peaches and greens. It's an umeboshi kind of sensation, isn't it?
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post #15 of 28
3/11/10 at 1:39pm
I had to look that up on wikipedia to know what it is! But yes, I get some spicy pickle, you know the quite bitter one you get at Indian restaurant to go with meat, and with black pepper sprinkled on top, but with a surprising mellow and gentle sweet peach fruit down under and then some cinnamon cake. Sort of. Very abstract indeed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tott View Post

It's an umeboshi kind of sensation, isn't it?
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post #16 of 28
3/11/10 at 1:47pm
Interesting
I didn't like the vintage Mitso so much
I must try the new one then!
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post #17 of 28
3/11/10 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tott View Post

It's an umeboshi kind of sensation, isn't it?

Ah yes, that's an excellent description. Very astringent.
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post #18 of 28
3/11/10 at 7:04pm
I like the new EDT better than the new EDP. I find it more wearable, especially for work, and less raspy than the EDP.
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post #19 of 28
3/11/10 at 10:13pm
Scent, for longevity, you can't beat the EDP. The extrait is next in line, followed by the EDT (as far as my own experience goes). When I wore them side by side recently, the extrait developed very quickly over a period of 4 hours. By 6 hours it was quite faded. Compared to other Guerlain extraits I have, I'd say this is one of the more fleeting. In contrast, the EDP lasts all day and over night, and clings strongly to clothes. Its development is so excruciatingly slow, so it seems almost linear in comparison.
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post #20 of 28
3/11/10 at 11:35pm
As most of you know Mitsouko =me and I use the EDP although I have the EDT as well. This fragrance is an icon that will, I hope, live forever. But, just in case, I have backed up a significant supply in refrigeration.
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post #21 of 28
4/18/10 at 8:30am
I've not posted a lot in SotD lately because I've been wearing Mitsouko every day for the last weeks. Main reason is that I bought our own xmen's Mitsouko vintage EdP, and this proved to be the most brilliant fleshy-thick jasmine-peach-oakmoss-cedarwood mix, deep and dark and by far the most satisfying of the editions I've come across so far, and I can't help but wearing it every day. The jasmine indoles are here fatter than I normally expect, and the oakmoss-vetiver-cedar darker and deeper. Ambrosiac!

Today, I'm on the post-2007 Mitsouko EdP - bolder, drier, harsher, greener. Less indolic, less refined sweetness. But I conclude that these editions are exactly different enough to justify having them both in one's collection. They serve different pleasures...
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post #22 of 28
4/18/10 at 10:38am
I am in the throes of collecting as much vintage Mitsouko as I can (pre-2005). I'm happy for those who find the modern version nicer: I'd rather not have had to deal with the loss. Indeed, throughout the years -- and of course, each bottle ages differently -- the bottles haven't been identical. I even had a discussion with Guerlain's Thierry Wasser about various "vintages" of the scent. But I feel that the essential darkness and moodiness of the original, the thing that bolstered the amiable softness of the peach, has been lost. It's like when you rip the lining out of a vintage dress: it's more comfortable to wear but the structure is unbalanced.
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post #23 of 28
4/18/10 at 12:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by carmencanada View Post

But I feel that the essential darkness and moodiness of the original, the thing that bolstered the amiable softness of the peach, has been lost. It's like when you rip the lining out of a vintage dress: it's more comfortable to wear but the structure is unbalanced.

What a vivid way of describing the difference! And I totally agree with you in the description of the loss. But, believe it or not, there are days when I crave for this totally new Mitsouko and its peppery, harsh greenness. Odd...
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post #24 of 28
4/18/10 at 12:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post

I've not posted a lot in SotD lately because I've been wearing Mitsouko every day for the last weeks.

But Mr G! You should post anyway. We miss you when you don't check in and wearing the same fragrance just proves it is well-loved
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post #25 of 28
4/18/10 at 12:55pm
*Blushing smile* I'm glad you think so - just kind of boring to say the same thing every day... But then again, all my Mitsoukos are so very different (the most variating of all my Guerlains) that I could almost justify writing about it each day

Quote:
Originally Posted by knit_at_nite View Post

But Mr G! You should post anyway. We miss you when you don't check in and wearing the same fragrance just proves it is well-loved
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post #26 of 28
4/18/10 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post

What a vivid way of describing the difference! And I totally agree with you in the description of the loss. But, believe it or not, there are days when I crave for this totally new Mitsouko and its peppery, harsh greenness. Odd...

I find the parfum, at least, goes through an unpleasant plastic-note phase. And harsh seems to me to be the very opposite of the Jacques Guerlain smoothness... If I were discovering it today I might have different feelings about it, but as it is, it's still close enough to the original to feel what's gone. I know that the house of Guerlain is doing what it can to protect its heritage. Clearly as long as LVMH doesn't throw its weight around, that won't be enough.
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post #27 of 28
5/1/10 at 5:41pm
As one who wants to stick to the classic Chaplin experience, and after sampling vintage and new Mitsouko EDP, I would love to acquire more of the vintage.

I believe the way to identify the vintage formula is from the lack of ingredients on the bottle's label? Or do you have any other tips?

Can you good folks recommend any sources, aside from eBay?

Thanks
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post #28 of 28
6/30/10 at 12:53am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subhuman85 View Post

Nice to hear positive comments about reformulated classics. I, for one, love the reformulated Rochas Femme, even though everyone and their mother claims the vintage version is superior by miles. Fine, find me a vintage bottle, go through the rigamarole of fighting tooth and nail with other 'fumeheads on eBay for a precious half-ounce of the stuff - until then I'll enjoy the new one.

Have smelled neither Mitsouko, but after reading this I'm no longer expecting a disappointment with the new version.

Actually I have tried the vintage Femme & the new one as well and I like the new one for sure!! It's the cummin that suits me ;-) About the Mitsouko I only smelled the reformulated version & I can't get it out of my mind. The discussion about reformulated perfumes and the vintage ones is very interresting.... I think I would go for the Mitsouko extrait.....
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