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Lavender onyone?

post #1 of 7
3/13/10 at 11:27am
Thread Starter 
Hi,

Luca Turin once again gave me some input. This time regarding his monks Lavender. I tried it yesterday. It is very different from his former preference, namely Caron poor homme. The later develops most instantly some sweet vanilla - not mine.

The sky light 'blue' of the monks fragrance captivated me. I want to redo it. Could You give me suggestions on which lavender to take, which musks to enhance diffusion and longevity and may be some other aroma chemicals to enhance the Lavender itself?

Most probably I will add EO Immortelle for some very faint hay/sweetness/tobacco and further fixation occasionally.

Thank You
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post #2 of 7
3/13/10 at 1:47pm
That exact lavender would be tricky to replicate. It contains lavender absolute but I suspect it has been processed somehow in order to remove some of the heravier, flatter notes. Also several types of lavender oil, I think. The musk is a commecially available one from an aromachemical company. Turin revealed the name of it somewhere when he described calling the aged belgian perfumer to ask him, but I can't remember where I read it now. Anyone else?
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post #3 of 7
3/13/10 at 10:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

That exact lavender would be tricky to replicate. It contains lavender absolute but I suspect it has been processed somehow in order to remove some of the heravier, flatter notes. Also several types of lavender oil, I think. The musk is a commecially available one from an aromachemical company. Turin revealed the name of it somewhere when he described calling the aged belgian perfumer to ask him, but I can't remember where I read it now. Anyone else?

Exaltolide - a synthetic musk that is noticed by men and women differently. Women may get nausea from it in lesser doses than men. Why the heck explicitly the monks use that, or does Turin fool the readers with the incidence? There are other more modern musks like Cosmone. I've to mix.

My experience with lavender is split. Once it has to much camphor, an other is to herbal, the monks' is weak but very soft. May be the Caldley variant is processed like vetiver more often recently. Funny: I 'googled' for vetiverol and found two really serious vendors for CO2 extracts, absolutes and oils. Cheaper, better than that infamous aromatherapists stuff, great! Even a true CO2 Oud extract is available for a reasonable prize. CO2 Lavender is promised to suffer less from chemical alterations during the extraction.

Mmmh, looks as if I'm the first adventurer to try.
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post #4 of 7
3/14/10 at 3:57am
Just a random thougt that may be of use to you.

One of the most 'natural' smelling lavenders I've ever encountered is by Le Couvent De Minimes, which contains acacia. Perhaps you could add that to your mix?
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post #5 of 7
3/14/10 at 2:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post

Exaltolide - a synthetic musk that is noticed by men and women differently. Women may get nausea from it in lesser doses than men. Why the heck explicitly the monks use that, or does Turin fool the readers with the incidence? There are other more modern musks like Cosmone. I've to mix.

My experience with lavender is split. Once it has to much camphor, an other is to herbal, the monks' is weak but very soft. May be the Caldley variant is processed like vetiver more often recently. Funny: I 'googled' for vetiverol and found two really serious vendors for CO2 extracts, absolutes and oils. Cheaper, better than that infamous aromatherapists stuff, great! Even a true CO2 Oud extract is available for a reasonable prize. CO2 Lavender is promised to suffer less from chemical alterations during the extraction.

Mmmh, looks as if I'm the first adventurer to try.

That's it! Where did he write about it? Could you remind me please.
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post #6 of 7
3/16/10 at 9:55am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

That's it! Where did he write about it? Could you remind me please.

Turin on the monks Exaltolide:

http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...b0f626cb3.aspx

But I'm frustrated all in all. 'Bought Turins Perfumes book yesterday. I wanted to mix Lavender with everlasting flower (heliochrysum) - already made: DIOR Eau Noir and KILIAN A Taste Of Heaven! And I thought it would be an unique idea 'cause of it's origin in my very personal spare time adventures in summer, eff. The dry, woody, fruity smell of heated hay as been claimed as a signature by Chandler Burr.

My starting-this-all comic perfume would seem as a cheap amateurish imitation of (first attempt) Tommy Girl or (second) Jasmin Et Cigarette, Or Black respectively.

So neither does a satirical parody on synthetics hit the target, nor will a contemplative back to the roots ansatz. I stood up to oppose the system. Now I'm caught as a devoted customer of costly classics. During many years on university I occasionally used real natural oils as (mysore) sandalwood, rose otto, bergamote. Alas, the aromatherapists redefined that natural odors to some kinda medicine, implicating You are suffering something, hence wearing them. I've to find something -very/very- odd and make it wearable, like JC Ellena ... .
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post #7 of 7
4/8/10 at 2:59pm
Well,

as a lavender addict, i can confirm that Caldey's Island Lavender is a little masterpiece, by far the best lavender-centered scent on the market nowadays. Possibly it's surpassed only by Penahligon's Esprit de Lavande, but this has its accent on the green side of lavender, and sadly discontinued.

The CIL focuses on a round, soft flowery lavender note which is surely given by the use of a good quantity of french lavender absolute, and perhaps of a carefully selected blend of lavender e.o. too. The lavandula angustifolia absolute is produced from floral tops; if you smell that absolute you will discover this flowery round note, in comparison to e.o. of other lavender, the hybrida and the latifolia, harsher and more camphoraceous.

Reproducing it may be challenging, but if you focus on high percentage of angustifolia absolute may bring some notes you are searching for. Or try rounding off your oils with a bit of linalyl acetate as modifier, to get more floral tones from them.
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