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S o t D, Monday, 15 March 2010  

post #1 of 124
3/14/10 at 9:57pm
Thread Starter 
Hermès
Bel Ami
(1986)
Jean-Louis Sieuzac
Chypre
------------------
Top Notes: Basil Oil, Bergamot Oil, Clary Sage Oil, Lemon, Mandarin, Petitgrain
Middle Notes: Carnation, Cedar, Jasmin, Orris, Patchouli, Vetiver
Base Notes: Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oakmoss, Styrax, Vanilla
------------------
This is the old formulation, in the old bottle. It is a very strange accord, with some contradictions, but as in beautiful musical counterpoint, all the suspensions and discords are resolved as you go along. The clary sage in the top note, along with the basil and bergamot, is a green start, the herbal basil and wine-like clary sage playing off in counterpoint. Florals and woods with orris root in the heart also makes some resolutions necessary, and these are found in an oriental base with its own outliers of castoreum and leather. A strange, but beautiful beast. This is like having a friend who is a bit of a diamond in the rough: At first things may be a bit unsettling and strange, but after true natures are known, you wouldn't be parted for the world.

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post #2 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:01pm
DIOR HOMME ... such a relatively big wardrobe,
and I keep using only 3-4 of them! Such a shame!
post #3 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:34pm
Guerlain Shalimar EdP
post #4 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:36pm
Arlington
post #5 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:42pm
Ferre EDP

http://www.basenotes.net/ID26124496.html

It smells unisex to me.
post #6 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:43pm
Frederic Malle's French Lover
post #7 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:44pm
L'Âme d'Un Héros/Guerlain
post #8 of 124
3/14/10 at 10:55pm
  • MFJ
  • offline
  • Gender:
CREED
Original Santal
post #9 of 124
3/14/10 at 11:01pm
  • jtd
  • offline
  • Gender:
Ambre Sultan
post #10 of 124
3/14/10 at 11:03pm
M7 by YSL.
post #11 of 124
3/14/10 at 11:20pm
Sashka Black by M. Micallef

post #12 of 124
3/14/10 at 11:38pm
Bvlgari Pour Homme Extreme
post #13 of 124
3/14/10 at 11:48pm
Knize - Knize Ten Golden Edition + Montale - Aoud Leather
post #14 of 124
3/14/10 at 11:57pm
Creed Erolfa.
post #15 of 124
3/15/10 at 12:09am
Roma Uomo - Laura Biagiotti
post #16 of 124
3/15/10 at 12:28am
Acqua Di Parma Colonia

post #17 of 124
3/15/10 at 12:40am
Knize Ten
post #18 of 124
3/15/10 at 12:42am
Adidas Victory League
post #19 of 124
3/15/10 at 12:49am
Serge Kalouguine's L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU

diptyque



Notes of : Bulgarian rose and black currant leaf
post #20 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:00am
Cartier - declaration
post #21 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:03am
My SOTD is Romeo Gigli.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Petitgrain, Neroli, Bitter Orange, Verbena, Rosewood, Sagebrush, Rosemary, Tarragon, Clary
Middle Notes: Rose, Bourbon Geranium, Clove, Allspice
Base Notes: Oak, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Spruce Balsam, Blonde Tobacco, Ambergris, Civet

post #22 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:09am
ANTONIO PUIG
QUORUM



Top Notes: Bergamot, Artemisia, Cumin, Lemon, Grapefruit.
Middle Notes: Patchouli, Jasmin, Pine, Sandal, Cyclamen, Carnation.
Base Notes: Leather, Tobacco, Moss, Amber, Olibanum.

post #23 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:35am
L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha

post #24 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:36am
Thierry Mugler Pure Malt
post #25 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:45am
Silver Quorum
post #26 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:49am
Guerlain's no-nonsense Jicky vintage EdT, fresh yet dark, elementary yet deep, both innocent and obscurely carnal..

post #27 of 124
3/15/10 at 1:54am
Laura Tonatto
ISS
post #28 of 124
3/15/10 at 2:35am
Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Parfum de Toilette
post #29 of 124
3/15/10 at 2:50am
DK Labdanum on my chest and vintage Paco on my neck
post #30 of 124
3/15/10 at 3:01am
ZINO Davidoff
post #31 of 124
3/15/10 at 3:16am
Dry Clean - CdG
post #32 of 124
3/15/10 at 3:32am
Bvlgari PH Extreme, Bvlgari PH bath products
post #33 of 124
3/15/10 at 3:35am
Lanvin Sport Homme
post #34 of 124
3/15/10 at 3:38am
Creed Green Irish Tweed
post #35 of 124
3/15/10 at 3:45am
Green Irish Tweed

Creed
post #36 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:05am
I haven't had my obsession out for a while...so I'm spending the day in peonies.... starting with....
post #37 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:07am
Basala
Shiseido
post #38 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:24am
Caron - The third man
post #39 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:45am
Mkk
post #40 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:47am
Allure Homme Sport Cologne
post #41 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:52am
Issey Miyake Bleue D'Issey
post #42 of 124
3/15/10 at 4:59am
Safari for Men by Ralph Lauren



http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121414.html
post #43 of 124
3/15/10 at 5:15am
Mazzolari Lui.
post #44 of 124
3/15/10 at 5:19am
Still suffering from a cold so, again, nothing for me today.
post #45 of 124
3/15/10 at 5:22am
Gucci Pour Homme
post #46 of 124
3/15/10 at 5:32am
dk men unleaded
post #47 of 124
3/15/10 at 5:39am
Busy building an ark after all the rain this weekend, thought I'd wear some tobacco.

Costamor Tabacca

As a young boy growing up in Miami in the late 60's I was exposed to a different culture a bike ride from my doorstep. I would regularly ride my bike down to Calle Ocho in Little Havana and on those trips I learned how to speak Spanish, drink strong Cuban coffee, play dominos, and the art of rolling a fine cigar. Sr. Perez-Carrillo showed me how he would pick the correct wrapper leaf and and then the technique, almost like origami, that went into rolling a perfect cigar. As I would sit in the shop watching his hands blur through this process I was surrounded by the smell of tobacco leaves. Depending on their use in the cigar making as filler, inner wrapper or outer wrapper they all had their own fragrance to them.

Elizabeth Wright who founded Costamor in 2009 spent her childhood summers in Costa Rica and her perfume house is concentrated on recreating her memory of fragrances from those summers in Costa Rica. I am guessing she also spent some time in a cigar shop during her time in the tropics because Tabacca, one of the first two Costamor fragrances, smells like the varied differences in tobacco leaves. Tabacca unfolds like the layers that go into making a fine cigar.

The outer layer is a beautiful mix of a green tobacco leaf accord mixed with a hint of apple. This is tobacco before it reaches that narcotic richness that drying enhances. Here you still smell the green leafy quality plus the nicotinic hints underneath it all. The choice to pair this with a tart green apple elevates the beginning of this into unforgettable territory. The heart is the familair rich dried tobacco accord in all of its glory. Ms. Wright chooses to add a rose tea accord as complement and that mix of light rose and tea, as in the top, makes for a well-chosen partner. The base is a warm amber to bring Tabacca to a soft finish.

Tabacca has excellent longevity and average sillage.

This is another excellent fragrance from Costamor that does what few other fragrances have tried, to explore both the green and dried aspects of tobacco in the same fragrance. Like the child who marveled at the skill it took to make a perfect cigar I am now the adult who admires Ms. Wright's skill in fully exploring both facets of tobacco in Tabacca.

Have a Merry Monday everyone.
post #48 of 124
3/15/10 at 5:53am
L'Artisan Timbuktu, from a sample.
post #49 of 124
3/15/10 at 6:03am
Bois du Portugal
post #50 of 124
3/15/10 at 6:08am
Amouage Lyric Man



Yesterday was M. Micallef Aoud Homme, and later Montale Aoud Damascus in the evening. Sheesh, I'm tired today - dern DST.
post #51 of 124
3/15/10 at 6:26am
Azzaro pour Homme

I am not a huge lavender fan, but APH is a perfectly blended aromatic fougere that never fails to surprise me with nuance. It has an outstanding lavender and anise opening, an herbal/citrus basil and oakmoss heart, and a musky, woody, ambergris base.





And it's got a very panEuropean/Roman Empire, masculine, martial vibe, so it fits for the Ides of March (Mars's month--god of War).

Have a great Monday! If you are a bloody dictator/conqueror, try to avoid getting stabbed if you can. Peace.
post #52 of 124
3/15/10 at 6:29am
Nikos Sculpture Homme
post #53 of 124
3/15/10 at 6:30am
Vintage Guerlain Mitsouko EDT
post #54 of 124
3/15/10 at 6:45am
Vetiver....Guerlain
post #55 of 124
3/15/10 at 7:00am
SotD: Penhaligon's LP No 9

Have a glorious day everyone!
post #56 of 124
3/15/10 at 7:02am
Givenchy Gentleman (1974)
post #57 of 124
3/15/10 at 7:03am
Hermès Hiris
post #58 of 124
3/15/10 at 7:06am
Gucci pour homme II
post #59 of 124
3/15/10 at 7:09am
Tobacco Vanille (2007)
by Tom Ford

(This may be my SotD for tomorrow aswell as the longevity is unbelievable)
post #60 of 124
3/15/10 at 7:20am
Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore

It arrived today and I absolutely love it. It is everything I like about the house.
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Features on Basenotes

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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Male Fragrance Discussion › MFD Archive › S o t D, Monday, 15 March 2010