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Chypre Fishing

post #1 of 54
3/18/10 at 5:44pm
Thread Starter 
I love, and spare no expense, on chypres. I feel like I've gotten to a lot of the grand divas, but want to make sure and am hoping this community can steer me towards some I've missed and need to try.

Here is what I've sampled, please make some suggestions if you see i've missed some worth trying:
Guerlain: I've tried all, so don't need recs here.
Caron: Bought all, so again no recs needed
Chanel, Ormonde Jayne, Sonoma Scent, JHaG, Maison kurkdjian, parfumes de Rosine: Covered
Nikki de St. phalle, Eau de soir, Y, Balmain, Cabochard - sniffed. More of the classics that i can't recall, sorry.

What next? Thanks!!
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post #2 of 54
3/18/10 at 5:49pm
You've covered some great territory so far.

What about Patou's 1000? Have you tried that yet?

And Carven's Ma Griffe? Probably so, but just in case you haven't, here it is. [Editing to add that I just saw your review on MG.]

Long Lost Perfume's repro of Crepe de Chine is quite good, IMO. And well priced, too.

MDCI's Enlèvement au Sérail is classified as an oriental, but it strikes me as more of a chypre. [Edit: I see you love MDCI's Promesse which means maybe you've tried EaS? and didn't like it as well?]

Houbigant's Aperçu is another well done chypre.
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post #3 of 54
3/18/10 at 6:12pm
Oh my!
Please don't live without trying:

Diva
So Pretty
Jil Sander 4
Jil Sander Scent 79
Gucci 3

Odalisque by PdN


PS: You have also tried The Party In Manhattan, and the Sisleys, n'est ce pas? .
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post #4 of 54
3/18/10 at 6:27pm
I love the classic mossy green and complex chypres from the 70s and 80s most of all, so I'll limit this to fragrances that are still available, (and I see Hillaire already mentioned the difficult to find favorite, Gucci 3 so I'll throw Givenchy III out there, too.) I consider all of these 4 or 5-Star fragrances.

Clinique, Aromatics Elixir
Estee Lauder, Azuree
Ungaro, Diva
Galanos, Galanos
Halston, Halston
J.L Scherrer, Scherrer
Krizia, K de Krizia
Estee Lauder, Knowing
La Perla, La Perla
Balmain, Miss Balmain
Molyneux, Quartz
Ralph Lauren, Safari
YSL, Rive Gauche

I know there are lots more, but these are my favorites, and the ones that I think of first when thinking about chypres.
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post #5 of 54
3/18/10 at 6:56pm
Hi, BayKat!

You've already tried (or others have already recommended here) a lot of my favorite chypres. Don't be afraid to give some of those "cheapies" a try. Diva, Jean-Louis Scherrer and even Scherrer II are all amazing quality and very affordable. :-)

Another niche house I can recommend for chypres is Ava Luxe. Her website indicates she's taking a vacation this month, but when the site comes back up in April, give her a try. I have tried and can recommend Film Noir and Biba from this line. (Plus a few other non-chypres.)

Have you tried vintage Coriandre? Fendi?

How about Agent Provocateur? That's a recent purchase for me and I just recommended it in another thread, guess it's been on my mind. Very nice scent!
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post #6 of 54
3/18/10 at 7:19pm
Jean Louis Scherrer is one of my favorite chypres, I have the EdP. I'm glad it's getting a lot of love here. I think most of the stuff that's still available is full of oak moss. This will change soon, if it survives the reformulation blitz. I'm a big Diva fan, too.
For something new, what about Jubilation 25?
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post #7 of 54
3/18/10 at 7:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Jean Louis Scherrer is one of my favorite chypres, I have the EdP. I'm glad it's getting a lot of love here. I think most of the stuff that's still available is full of oak moss. This will change soon, if it survives the reformulation blitz.

I agree - wonderful stuff! I have a couple of mini perfumes, the edp and the edt. The edt will do in a pinch, but the edp is just better....richer, as usual (of course the perfume is divine.) But I really need to back up my edp now as it seems to be disappearing quickly.
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post #8 of 54
3/18/10 at 7:50pm
Some great recommendations! I really like Teo Cabanel's Oha, so I am going to add that one to the list of recommendations. . . .
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post #9 of 54
3/18/10 at 8:08pm
Thread Starter 
hehe.. i knew I'd forget some- ma Griffe (i own)- oha, miss balmain, la perla, Galena- yep, tried!

Apercu, Rive Gauche, knowing I really want to try, plus so many others mentioned here. thank you so much!!
(I'm currently wearing ormonde Woman, another very nice chypre)
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post #10 of 54
3/18/10 at 8:16pm
Diva Diva Diva. I am such a fanboy of this scent. Azuree and Safari are also new loves.

What about the oft miscategorized "masculine" chypres?: Chanel Antaeus and Pour Monsieur, Givenchy Gentleman, and Caron Yatagan leap to mind.
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post #11 of 54
3/18/10 at 8:19pm
YSL chypres !

and...rose chypres seem to be another cathegory on their own, all detached from the rest of chypres. lol Here's... diva, knowing,L'arte di Gucci ... and... is cabaret a chypre too? smells like one.

Almost all chypres smell ROSY to me. I just figured out that even the ysl- Y and rive gauche- I feel they're "serious artistic masterpieces" built around various roses cared by very skillful gardners.
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post #12 of 54
3/18/10 at 8:19pm
Oh and don't leave out AdP Profumo!
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post #13 of 54
3/18/10 at 8:22pm
I would add Colony by Jean Patou, one of my favorite chypres.
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post #14 of 54
3/18/10 at 9:08pm
Pheromone for men by Miglin, once you get beyond the harsh "green" top notes, is a unisex chypre. I'm not a big chypre fan, but I like this one, I think because I don't find any "rough edges" in the drydown.
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post #15 of 54
3/18/10 at 9:20pm
+1 Profumo
+1 1000 Jean Patou
And Jubilation 25
And The Party In Manhattan !
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post #16 of 54
3/18/10 at 9:24pm
Thread Starter 
Rose chypres and chypres for men are catching my eye. I"ve tried Rose Barbare (Love it!). i'm not afraid of unisex, but stright up male scents have been off my radar, thanks!
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post #17 of 54
3/18/10 at 10:15pm
Hi Baykat,
You know i love chypres and i am on fishing myself.I have recently bought Gucci 3,nice classic one,and i have Jil Sanders 4 which is a bit fruity and nice for summer.I like Paloma Picasso perfume a lot ,i am searching for Miss Dior (old version) and one in my wanting list (best of classical)is Bandit by Piquet.
Good Luck,
Sophi
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post #18 of 54
3/18/10 at 10:28pm
Gucci by Gucci is a good 'new style' chypre ie. no oakmoss though they did a good job without it, I suppose. No rose but a sumptious pear accord.
For rose - definitely Aromatics Elixir.
Also + 1 for Agent Provocateur - feels like Aromatics Elixir's sibling.
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post #19 of 54
3/19/10 at 2:29am
I'd add Sisley: Soir de Lune and Eau du Soir. Also, Ava Luxe...and Paloma Picasso edP...and Montana Parfum de Peau...and...and...
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post #20 of 54
3/19/10 at 3:58am
+ 1 The Party in Manhattan -- a dirty, sweaty chypre chockfull of ambergris and oakmoss
+ 1 Envelement au Serail (sp?) -- Mitsouko with indoles galore

and Que Sais Je by Jean Patou -- similiar to pre-formulation Mitsouko -- very dark, gloomy and FABULOUS!
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post #21 of 54
3/19/10 at 4:32am
Rochas Femme ?
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post #22 of 54
3/19/10 at 4:59am
Cialenga by Balenciaga is a gorgeous chypre! So very feminine. You can get a sample at The Perfumed Court.

"Cialenga Parfum by Balenciaga is the perfect balance of woods spices & Cypres notes.Not sweet, not too acrid but slightly sharp. Notes of citrus, fruits, blackcurrant, greens/ rose, muguet, orris, clove, ylang ylang, jasmine/ vetiver, cedar, oakmoss, sandalwood"
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post #23 of 54
3/19/10 at 5:53am
Try Numero Uno by Carthusia and/or Chanel Pour Monsieur (the original NOT the Concentree) by Chanel. Two fantastic masculine chypres that many women comfortably wear.
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post #24 of 54
3/19/10 at 6:03am
One of my favourite chypres is Tweed. It is a lovely straightforward feminine fragrance.
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post #25 of 54
3/19/10 at 6:16am
Guerlain Sous le Vent is my desert island chypre.

Interesting frags that are often not thought of in this category--O de Lancome and Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte both have citrus-labdanum-moss combo, or a variation thereof that makes them quite chyprish.
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post #26 of 54
3/19/10 at 7:15am
I you love floral chypres, Amoureuse is a must-try, in my opinion. One of the best modern chypres I've tried, and my favorite of the last ten years or so. Non-traditional in it's top notes ( a very delicious tangerine-cardamon-tuberose accord ), but at the base it's a very classical chypre drydown in a transparent way. Despite the transparency it's by no means weak.
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post #27 of 54
3/19/10 at 8:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Antaeusintheair View Post

Oh and don't leave out AdP Profumo!

Yes, yes, yes! This is one of the great new, plummy chypres. Supposedly an update from a 1930s original. The pricing is outrageous, $220 for a 50ml EdP.
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post #28 of 54
3/19/10 at 9:11am
Apercu rocks & is so under appreciated.
Also, Cabochard,
Balmain - Ivoire,
Madame Rochas,
Caleche,
Lubin - Nuit de Longchamps,
Floris - Edwardian Bouquet
Patou - Normandie.
Guerlain - Sous le Vent is one of the best.
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post #29 of 54
3/19/10 at 11:11am
Thread Starter 
Has Apercu been reformulated, any one know? IN general, this is the problem with chypres- do you sample the vintage, or the modern. I think more than any other category this one has suffered from tweaking. :-(
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post #30 of 54
3/19/10 at 11:20am
I got an older bottle from the internet, I believe. I don't know the availability in the dept stores. I don't think it's that easy to find. Most of the bottles are probably original formula, I'm guessing, but I don't know.
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post #31 of 54
3/19/10 at 12:12pm
Dear BayKAT,

I hesitated to offer my suggestion only because it may come too late.

Trussardi for Women, the original one in the white bottle with the greyhound insignia.

It wasn't my training-bra chypre, because if you need training, you're not ready for chypre. But it was the one that molded me into a hopeless chypre addict. The closest comparison would be the Scherrer that is being loved to death in the messages above. Trussardi had the same vibe but not so whompingly green. Warmer, drier, and of course coming from the House of Trussardi ( a leather goods co.) it had a leathery element.

Unfortunately, the last bottle of it I purchased was a wreck. The bottle had been cheapened (the greyhound insignia was only stamped into the plastic of the bottle, rather than on its own little leather lozenge). The juice was like a fuzzy xerox copy. Sad, bad and it made me mad. If you ever see the edp for sale, throw your body over it until it's yours. You can be sure it's the real thing, because Trussardi switched to edt-only for this scent about 5 or 6 years ago.
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post #32 of 54
3/19/10 at 2:20pm
I forgot to mention Estee Lauder Private Collection (original).
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post #33 of 54
3/19/10 at 3:26pm
I am no expert on chypres, and you have tried all the Guerlains - but I still want to mention Parure...

And Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit and Armani Privé Éclat de Jasmine. One more traditional (and baaadly reviewed) is Chypre Oriental by Molinard.
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post #34 of 54
3/19/10 at 3:51pm
Has Apercu been reformulated?

NO. But I think it's discontinued. I'd get some quickly.
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post #35 of 54
3/19/10 at 6:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Antaeusintheair View Post

Oh and don't leave out AdP Profumo!

Heartily second this one! Beautiful!

You've already tried two of my favorites, Y and Niki de Saint Phalle. Another one to consider is Paco Rabanne Calandre, an appealing green chypre. Oh, and some call Miller Harris Fleur de Sel a chypre. It's very special, IMO.
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post #36 of 54
3/19/10 at 10:50pm
Thread Starter 
Again, thanks to all and please add more for those who are 'lurking'. I'm creating a list for samples i'll order this spring.
:-) Kari
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post #37 of 54
3/20/10 at 4:33am
I am going to concur by also suggesting Paloma Picasso.
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post #38 of 54
3/20/10 at 7:23pm
The three that I replace on a regular basis are Mitsouko, Cristalle & Diorella. Please try Diorella...even the new version is a winner. I also like Colony by Patou, but this has been discontinued. You probably can get it on the net, though. The only drawback is that it lacks longevity. Discontinuing a fragrance that cannot be duplicated under the new restrictions is so much more honest than trying to sell an imposter to the unsuspecting buyer. (See my review of Odalisque by PDN) If you try Paloma Picasso, get the edt. The edp is a powerhouse, much like Trussardi, which has also been discontinued. Cuir by Lancome is a spectacular suede chypre. And Baghari is great, although it may have changed. My older bottle of the juice is an orange/floral chypre. I own & love all of these.
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post #39 of 54
3/20/10 at 8:16pm
I see many recomending 1000... I find it very difficult to pull off (vintage or new one, still difficult), I imagine this perfume on a very eccentric woman, who dresses weird, something like... wearing traditional clothes from the place she grew in, no mather how elevated the circles she's in... not caring about social rules. Maybe being a party animal and smoking some wird pipe,traveling to weird places etc.

Anyway, I see this perfume on an extremely unconventional woman.

Very difficult to pull off...
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post #40 of 54
3/21/10 at 12:02pm
Jean-Louis Scherrer -- a beautiful spicy green chypre, relatively undiscovered and very inexpensive on the discounters. (Not to be confused with JLS 2, which is a heavy floriental, also good, but not a chypre.) Vintage "Y" by Yves St. Laurent. Once in a while a bottle of Coty's Chypre, the one for which the family was named, comes around on fleabay, and some decanters have it -- if you ever smell it you'll know what a chypre is supposed to be. "Diorella" (vintage if possible) if you're into leathers; "Miss Balmain," a floral leather, also inexpensive online. "Miss Dior" (vintage only) which is a green/floral chypre but does have that from-another-era about it. Rosine's "Folie de Rose," a great rose chypre, or "K" by Krizia (which I believe is discontinued, but can be had on fleabay.) The most essential ingredient is oakmoss, which has been banned in any significant amount in modern "chypres," so try and get the old ones. If there is a box, and the ingredient list features something like "alcohol, water, fragrance" then you have the vintage.
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post #41 of 54
3/21/10 at 1:45pm
I don't see 1000 as a chypre at all, for the record; rather, to me, it's an aldehydic, like Vol de Nuit or Private Collection. I'd also classify Cialenga and Calandre thusly, as floral aldehydics. These distinctions become very difficult with the presence of the chypre three (patchouli, bergamot, and oakmoss) in Orientals and aldehydics, as well as with a ton of aldehydes sometimes seen in chypres!

Chanel 19 is the perfect example, not a chypre, but often misnamed one because of its notes. In fact, it's the paradigmatic aldehydic floral.
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post #42 of 54
3/21/10 at 6:38pm
It sounds like many good ones have been mentioned. I would also try EL Jasmine White Moss.
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post #43 of 54
3/21/10 at 6:45pm
Also, Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'Une Fete.
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post #44 of 54
3/22/10 at 12:12am
Adding more:Newcomer U Ungaro Feverand Classical Diva by Ungaro.
Cabaret by Gres.John Varvatos for Women.
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post #45 of 54
3/22/10 at 12:32am
Oh!One more:Mauboussin By Mauboussin
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post #46 of 54
3/22/10 at 8:22am
I'll add Talisman and Quadrille since they haven't been mentioned, ssems like Balenciaga is worth checking out in it's entirety, as Rumba is also a fruity chypre.
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post #47 of 54
3/22/10 at 8:37am
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It might be too late to get this one, I hope not. Aedes had a fragrance made by Molinard called Une Histoire De Chypre. It was created from a recipe found in the Molinard fragrance vaults. Turin/Sanchez panned it but I love it. It is rich, uber complex. It's also no longer on their web site.

I am not affiliated with Aedes, except as a customer. If you want to contact them, here's the # at 888-AEDES15. Ask for Robert (Karl or Miguel can help too) & tell them Christine sent you.
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post #48 of 54
3/23/10 at 11:22am
Haven't read through the whole thread... so sorry about being repetitive-
have you tried Givenchy III???

And... Jolie Madame?
Of course, you know Parfum de Peau de Claude Montana?

I also love Coriandre by Jean Couturier...

and Agent Provocateur from 2002.

Chypres are my fav category, too.
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post #49 of 54
3/23/10 at 11:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minou2 View Post

It sounds like many good ones have been mentioned. I would also try EL Jasmine White Moss.

Indeed! One of my recent acquisitions! Wonderful!
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post #50 of 54
3/26/10 at 9:22pm
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Love this thread! Ditto to so many chypres already mentioned---esp. Diorella, Aromatics Elixir and Odalisque. How about Bond's Chinatown? A bit like a recent take on Mitsouko. A dark but fruity chypre.
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post #51 of 54
3/26/10 at 9:54pm
Thread Starter 
Chinatown is on my list!! i've got bond on my radar for this summer, looking forward to it!
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post #52 of 54
3/29/10 at 12:04am
+1 on Numero Uno by Carthusia and Chanel pour Monsieur
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post #53 of 54
3/29/10 at 4:41am
Azuree for a serious early '60's-style green leather chypre, L'Temps d'Une Fete for a wonderfully fresh, rounded floral chypre, and AdP Profumo for the whole chypre and nothing but the chypre. Get the vintage if you can.
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post #54 of 54
3/29/10 at 7:01am
Have you tried anything from Trussardi like Donna or Donna Fresh???
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