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Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

post #1 of 44
4/1/10 at 8:25am
Thread Starter 
I am a huge fan of Francis Kurkdjian. When I discovered Gaultier2, I fell in love and began looking for his other frags. I was surprised to find that I already had about three of his other scents in my wardrobe.

Today I was reading up on my SOTD, Van Cleef & Arpels Murmure, which was created by Jacques Cavallier who also made several of my other faves including Alexander McQueen Kingdom, Stella McCartney Stella, and M7!

So...do you find that you lean towards certain noses (often without prior knowledge that the nose designed this new wonderful thing you must have)? It's almost like a piece of music you fell in love with, only to find out it's by someone you have been collecting for years. I find it interesting that there are certain noses out there who seem to have several works in their repertoire that appeal to me...almost as if there is a vibrational harmony or some kind of "likeness" between us.

Thoughts? Comments?
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post #2 of 44
4/1/10 at 10:51am
I was suprised to find Annick Ménardo designed 2 out of 3 of my first 'proper' perfumes (Lolita Lempicka and Hypnotic Poison) as well as Bvlgari Black which I greatly admired but couldn't justify buying back then as a poor student. And baffled in her involvement with Lancôme's Hypnôse, which is one of the few scents I truly, truly dislike.

I wonder if the love/hate split is pretty common? Have either of your favourite noses released something you can't stand, mochi?
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post #3 of 44
4/1/10 at 11:17am
hehe.. you've touched on two of my favorites- Annick Mernardo made Bois D'armenie (a fave), and Kurkdjian made Isvaraya (another fave)

in general, I only like work done by noses when they put out something 'expensive', because it seems like they have less pressure to make a commercial hit, can use better ingredients, and are given more freedom to be creative (and not cater to the masses)

A good example: What was FK doing putting out slop like BeBe perfume? Compare this to Rose Barbare, his Parfums MDCI creations, JHaG, and his own line. 'nuff said.
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post #4 of 44
4/1/10 at 1:00pm
I try to treat them all as equals, but some are more equal than others: JC Ellena until about 2007, B. Douchafour (many fans here), Olivia Giacobetti.
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post #5 of 44
4/1/10 at 4:37pm
Ernest Beaux is one of my favorite perfumers. I gravitate towards his fragrances: No 5, the original Evening in Paris, Bois des Iles, etc.
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post #6 of 44
4/1/10 at 9:20pm
Yes, definitely. To name some names, Marc Buxton, Germaine Cellier, Bertrand Douchaufour, Jean-Claude Ellena, Olivia Giacobetti, Annick Goutal, Jacques Guerlain (I call him affectionately "St.Jacques"), Jean Kerleo (responsible for my dear Yohji!), Linda Pilkington, Christopher Sheldrake...
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post #7 of 44
4/1/10 at 11:42pm
Bertrand Duchaufour has hit all the right buttons for me. The Ellenas (father and daughter) and Olivia Giacobetti are also favorites of mine. I'm learning that I like innovation, low sillage, and a transparent quality in my fragrances. Especially innovation!
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post #8 of 44
4/2/10 at 9:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunani View Post

Bertrand Duchaufour has hit all the right buttons for me. The Ellenas (father and daughter) and Olivia Giacobetti are also favorites of mine. I'm learning that I like innovation, low sillage, and a transparent quality in my fragrances. Especially innovation!

You must try and get hold of a sample of Duchaufour's new Orange Blossom for Penhaligan's then! I've worn it once, from spritz in the shop, but I think it has a nice twist. The sillage is light and traditional, but close to the skin it's much deeper and rounded out, almost sexy. I think that's rather clever!
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post #9 of 44
4/2/10 at 9:29am
I love Ernest Beaux. His Chanels were extraordinary.
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post #10 of 44
4/2/10 at 9:52am
no predilection.

But... must admit- I am quite curious about sniffing ALL Jean Kerleo's creations. So interesting everything I sniffed from him so far!!! Some I find brilliant, work of a genious-nose. ..
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post #11 of 44
4/2/10 at 12:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra Ichor View Post

You must try and get hold of a sample of Duchaufour's new Orange Blossom for Penhaligan's then! I've worn it once, from spritz in the shop, but I think it has a nice twist. The sillage is light and traditional, but close to the skin it's much deeper and rounded out, almost sexy. I think that's rather clever!

Thank you, Petra Ichor! That one does sound like a must-try for me.
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post #12 of 44
4/2/10 at 12:29pm
Certainly Patricia de Nicolai.
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post #13 of 44
4/3/10 at 7:03am
My very favorite - Germaine Cellier!

reine
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post #14 of 44
4/3/10 at 7:26am
Certainly!

Christopher Sheldrake
Maurice Roucel
Sophia Grojsman
Jaques Polge
Anne Flipo
Olivia Giacobetti
Bertrand Douchafour
Ernest Beaux
Jean Claude Ellena

my apologies for any misspellings
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post #15 of 44
4/4/10 at 7:09pm
Yep. Michel Roudnitska--all except for Delrae Emotionelle, which scared me. I also like Edouard Flechier's work for Frederic Malle, although Poison also scares me.

I agree that it's not always enough to look at the nose--you have to look at how much freedom the nose was given to use quality materials (which usually, but not always, corresponds with cost). Then again, some noses seem to be able to pull it off even with the lower cost frags.
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post #16 of 44
4/4/10 at 7:59pm
I seem to have a weak spot for Olivier Cresp, but the reason might just be that he is so extraordinarily productive, and "lends" his nose to so much....

So many worth of mentioning, but let´s say Annick Goutal, Francis Kurkdjian, J-C Ellena, Bertrand Douchafour & Christopher Sheldrake.
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post #17 of 44
4/4/10 at 8:03pm
Here are some perfumers whose work I tend to love:

Jean Laporte (MPG)
Alberto Morillas (colonia intensa, versace Ph, mugler cologne, M7 w/ Cavallier + MANY more)
Lucas Sieuzac (Reflection Man, Jubilation Woman, Wicken 3000, Givenchy Play w/ Emilie Copperman)
Francis Kurkdjian (APOM homme, FdM, Narciso Rodriguez PH)
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post #18 of 44
4/4/10 at 11:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

Certainly Patricia de Nicolai.

Patricia Nicolaï for me too.
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post #19 of 44
4/5/10 at 6:08pm
The two different Polges made 2 of my favorites.
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post #20 of 44
4/5/10 at 6:41pm
I'll go with Annick Menaro too;

- Hypnotic Poison
- Body Kouros
- Au Masculin
- Jaïpur pour Homme
- Xeryus Rouge

... all favourites of mine!
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post #21 of 44
4/5/10 at 10:01pm
Olivia Giacobetti, Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, and Bertrand Douchafour
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post #22 of 44
4/5/10 at 10:30pm
Germaine Cellier, Francis Fabron, André Fraysse, Michel Hy. Creators of so many classics.
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post #23 of 44
4/6/10 at 5:04am
Patricia de Nicolai - Hands down the perfumer I get most excited about: faves are Les Rivage de Syrtes, Un Couer en Mai, Odalisque, Le Temps d'Une Fete, Sacrebleu, New York, Nicolai PH, Baladin...you get the idea!
Bernard Chant - Azuree, Cabochard... so divine!
Jean Claude Ellena - creator of so many perfect, diverse scents, including Dia Woman, Eau de Campagne, and the original First (honorable mention to progeny Bernard Ellena for Style and Stylessence of Jil Sander. )
Edmond Roudnitska - Not a misfire there: Diorella, Le Parfum de Therese , Eau Sauvage, Eau d'Hermes
Jean Paul Guerlain - my preferred Guerlain: Parure, Chant d'Aromes, Champs Elysees, Plus que Jamais, Chamade...
Vintage Jacques Polge (We cannot forget Diva, Rive Gauche...Antaeus ...in their original glory...)


Some remarkable hits from: Evelyn Boulanger, Vulcan Michel Roudnitska, Pierre Guillaume, Mark Buxton, Dominique Ropion...
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post #24 of 44
4/6/10 at 5:18am
Another talent who "lends" his nose around is Alberto Morillas - VERY talented!
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post #25 of 44
4/21/10 at 8:18pm
Annick Goutal and Olivia Giacobetti.
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post #26 of 44
4/21/10 at 8:32pm
Jacques Polge, for Mademoiselle, Sycomore, 31 Rue Cambon... Coromandel...

Jean Paul Guerlain for Coriolan, Habit Rouge, and Vetiver.

I appreciate Michael Storer's nose, but am unsure he has reached his potential yet... Monk is VERY nice...

Annick Menardo has got to get major credit for the unique Bvlgari Black.
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post #27 of 44
4/21/10 at 10:55pm
Dominique Ropion of Ysatis,Carnal Flower,Amarige,Une Fleur de Cassie fame .
Jacques and Jean Paul Guerlain of..Guerlain fame .
Bernard Chant- Aromatics Elixir.
Germaine Cellier- like Brielle.
Calice Becker- By Kilian's .
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post #28 of 44
4/22/10 at 3:47am
Absolutely:

Germaine Cellier (my best ever), and
JC Ellena (though Rumba terrifies me!)
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post #29 of 44
4/22/10 at 6:16am
Bertrand Duchafour is one of the most exciting, creative "noses" around. I
loved his work at Eau d'Italie and now at L'Artisan. Amaranthine for Penhaligon
was also amazing.
Edmond Roudnitska also gets my vote for Eau Sauvage, Diorella, Le Parfum de
Therese and Diorissimo.
Finally, I admire Annick Menardo, Christine Nagel and Alberto Morillas.
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post #30 of 44
4/22/10 at 6:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

Certainly Patricia de Nicolai.

Oh yes!
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post #31 of 44
4/22/10 at 6:33am
Edmond Roudnitska
Roger Pellegrino
Jacques Polge
Olivier Polge
several members of the Guerlain and the Creed dynasties
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post #32 of 44
4/22/10 at 8:22pm
Jean Kerleo, Olivia Giacobetti and Chris Sheldrake. I don't think Sheldrake gets the credit he deserves.
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post #33 of 44
4/22/10 at 9:19pm
Yes, I like the following noses; E. Roudniska, Calice Becker, Jean Claude Ellena and the Guerlains.
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post #34 of 44
4/23/10 at 2:44am
I'm adding Ernest Daltroff to my list of people to be worshipped.
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post #35 of 44
4/23/10 at 8:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post

Jean Kerleo, Olivia Giacobetti and Chris Sheldrake. I don't think Sheldrake gets the credit he deserves.

Yes Chris Sheldrake - he must be a genius of some kind.
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post #36 of 44
4/23/10 at 9:41am
I second for RUMBA terrible! but all the other creations of Jean Claude Elena- the scavendger of odors, as he calls himself- attract me magically: everything of the HERMESSENCES,all the Jardins of HERMES,TERRE d' HERMES and my "husband" parfume Elixir des Merveilles, plus YSL "In love again", two fantastic summers of...I dont remember, I was young...In the contrary ,I dislike Polge's creations(Allure...)
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post #37 of 44
4/23/10 at 8:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

Yes Chris Sheldrake - he must be a genius of some kind.

I think his name will go down in history as one of the greats.
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post #38 of 44
4/27/10 at 10:11pm
I like Sheldrake too, although the Datur Noir was so new and different for me and compelling that I had to have it, but now that I have owned it for a year, it's not so magnificent as it was in the little sample vial. I love Andy Taur's creations, some of them .
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post #39 of 44
4/28/10 at 1:03am
I just smelled Lolita Lampicka a few days ago. It attracted me at first sniff, and I mentally added it to The Acquisition List.

And there was something oddly familiar about it. Something that felt "cool", along the lines of Arpege PH? No, more like Jaipur Homme. And something almond-y, reminding me of... what? Hypnotic Poison? (Another candidate for The List.)

I couldn't quite put my finger on it, and it was driving me crazy. So I slept on it. Woke up and sniffed my arm. Ah! That was it! The vanilla. Same lovely vanilla as Bvlgari Black. Puzzle solved.

And then I looked up Lolita and its nose here on BN. Well, go figure! All but Arpege PH are the work of Annick Ménardo. If I'm such a sucker for her gourmands, I mind as well blind buy Body Kouros while I'm at it!
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post #40 of 44
4/29/10 at 8:53pm
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Yes. There really must be something in the sensibilites or approaches by certain perfumers that draw us in. In fact it looks like we may even share our preferences. I read Hillaire's post and thought, "Yeah---what she said." Chant, E. Roudnitska and especially de Nicolai. And I'd cite the same fragrances she did! I guess this should come as no surprise. There are certain choreographers, visual artists, directors, etc who work always interests me and almost always appeals to me. I love the idea that the same notion applies to perfumers. It makes me await their next work and want to try their previous works. One more I have to add: Andy Tauer. I don't know all his work but I have and adore Lonestar Memories, Incense Rose and l'Air du Desert Marocain.
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post #41 of 44
4/29/10 at 9:19pm
olivier creed, henry creed II and III they made some of the nicest perfumes for women, I do not wear them but the works of art they made are how a woman of class and beauty should smell like.
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post #42 of 44
4/29/10 at 9:35pm
I'll join the Germaine Cellier crowd.
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post #43 of 44
4/30/10 at 11:15am
Alberto Morillas is my guru, too.

First I got Chic by Carolina Herrera. It was my first Eau de Parfum ever - I think I was 21 or so years old when I bought the bottle. Sadly I can't stand it anymore.. The second by Morillas was Armand Basi In Red which was given to me as a gift. Even though I didn't choose the scent myself, In Red has become my signature scent. I've emptied several bottles during the years it has been on the market. The third was Bulgari Omnia Crystalline which I bought on a whim from a department store sale.

It was only a long time after when I became more interested about scents that I found out these fragrances had something in common. It felt like a revelation Afterwards I have tried to track down other perfumes made by Morillas. I've liked most of them but haven't of course collected all of them. For example, I like Flower by Kenzo but it somehow doesn't suit me, my style and personality. Strangely, like Petra Ischor, I don't like Miracle (Lancome) even though it is made by him. Its too sweet for my taste, like all Lancome's perfumes.

I find the whole thing kinda funny: there are people who follow certain fashion designers, even though the designers might work for different fashion houses, there are (were?) "Blahnik women".. In the end, I guess I appreciate the same "aesthetics" as Mr. Morillas
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post #44 of 44
5/5/10 at 6:42am
Great topic! I would never have thought of to sample scent based on the creator.
From what people are saying, there seems to be underlying current from creation to creation regardless of House. Much like a person can recognize a painting or sculpture based on certain clues. I wonder if by sampling scent based on Nose, a person would have a greater satisfaction rate than if that person tested based word of mouth? Interesting....I am off to sample Alberto Morillas and Jean-Pierre Bethouart!
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