This is absolutely true, Joe. Thank you for stating two important points. It has most definitely been reformulated. I have Vintage Kouros and have smelled a sample of current formulation. The depth of Vintage is significantly richer, along with the notes being deeper and more expressive - it is a wonderful and potent blend of cloves, patchouli, honey, musk, florals, civet, spices, oakmoss, incense, herbs and leather. The aldehydes are more present in the top notes of Vintage formulation, so although there is more depth - there is also a wonderful lifted opening that keeps the entire blend from being too powdery early on. The second key note that is not present (or significantly reduced in current and more recent formulations) is Oakmoss. In Vintage Kouros, I find it to be both a nice note and a key fixative that really helps keep the herbs and spices sparkling and earthy patchouli balance out the civet and musk. The honey is warmer and smoother in Vintage as well. While a lot of people like current formulation because it has a bit more citrus on the opening and a lighter, cleaner feel (less clove, civet, musk, honey) - it becomes more powdery a lot sooner in the wear. I like the warm, smooth, and lightly
powdery feel of Vintage in the drydown (where there is also a nice incense accord that shows) - but the powdery-vibe enters current formulation in the heart and is much more dominant. Not a bad thing if Vintage is too potent, which is a perspective - just one that I don't have.
Side-by-side, it is very noticeable to me in the heart...while I'm smelling (from Vintage) earthy patchouli, rich cloves, dusty cinnamon, vetiver, orris root and a bouquet of florals wafting in quietly (with the honey radiating through, leather starting to show with the civet and musk breathing on my skin) - the current formulation is already at the point of a powdery talc that is infused with spices, light florals, some patchouli (which is harder to find under the powder) but enough vetiver and musk to keep things somewhat separated. However, this phase lasts a rather short period (which is key) and the powder seems to drown out notes while the Vintage keeps pumping and a light powder seems to add to the vibe, instead of take it over.
Now, this is coming from a single, sample decant that I got - compared on clean skin, side-by-side. I would say that if I didn't know Vintage Kouros, I would like the current formulation and feel it is a nice barbershop scent with some unique notes and a very nice, fresh powdery feel. Very inoffensive and rather old-school with just enough civet to show you this had roots from yesteryear. Still not something a typical high-school/college student would have in their collection though. I don't find the urinal note here or in Vintage - when I was younger and those around me wore Vintage Kouros, an over-application on a hot day could lead one to a very heavy musky, civet-infused scent with the sweetness of honey making one realize that sometimes less is more. So, light application and a nice touch-up is my preferred method for a full day's wear - it is brilliant year-round for me. Actually, the weather and temperature really has an effect on this scent, more so than many others. Look for the subtleties and notes as they waft from your skin on a warm, balmy day versus a cool, dry one. Kouros really does blend with one's body chemistry wonderfully and the climate obviously effects that. Animalic notes make it seem nearly "alive" sometimes when you wear it - to some it smells very natural, to others very imposing.
I have come to really appreciate Vintage Kouros more and more recently. I have also been gifted the ultra-rare and discontinued Eau de Sport (1986) and was able to find the discontinued Vintage Kouros Fraicheur (both are truly amazing flankers
)! As we mature, I think our tastes and olfactory perspective grows with us - unless we limit ourselves. I wanted to write this personal perspective because it is something I have come to find significant. It makes me appreciate what Vintage Kouros was and what current formulation has to offer and what I can take from both. To each, their own.
Originally Posted by petruccijc
I do not know for sure, but my guess is that is has been reformaulated - with just about everything else. However, IMO the Kouros that is sold today is still 99% better than the rest of the fragrances being sold.