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Masculine chypres?

post #1 of 53
4/12/10 at 9:23am
Thread Starter 
I tested Guerlain Mitsouko and Chanel Pour Monsieur on my 2 wrists the other day and I was struck by their chypre similiarity.

Are there still many masculine chypres on the marketplace? I am particularly interested in the complete and original chypre structure (bergamot, light floral notes, oakmoss and pachouli basenotes, with a bit of labdanum ciste) and not just scents with oakmoss in the base.
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post #2 of 53
4/12/10 at 9:29am
That's easy: Numero Uno by Carthusia. My very favorite masculine chypre. Also try Derby by Guerlain.
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post #3 of 53
4/12/10 at 9:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

That's easy: Numero Uno by Carthusia. My very favorite masculine chypre.

+1. I liked it because of its similarity to Mitsouko.
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post #4 of 53
4/12/10 at 10:17am
the original eau fraiche by christian dior.
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post #5 of 53
4/12/10 at 1:42pm
Chypre may be my favorite fragrance category.

Chanel Pour Monsieur may be the best of the masculine chypres. Quorum is also quite good.

Many of the best feminines are also easily worn by men: Miss Balmain, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Estee Lauder Azuree.
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post #6 of 53
4/12/10 at 1:45pm
I can't believe how good Pheromone for Men (Miglin) is and how little "respect" it gets. Well, I've got my 100 ml bottle, so I'm set !
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post #7 of 53
4/12/10 at 2:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Advocate View Post

Many of the best feminines are also easily worn by men: Miss Balmain, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Estee Lauder Azuree.

all of these are leather chypres.
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post #8 of 53
4/12/10 at 2:38pm
Derby
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post #9 of 53
4/12/10 at 3:01pm
Aramis.
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post #10 of 53
4/12/10 at 3:22pm
Another vote for Derby, and I second the twins (much like Apollo and Diana/Artemis) of male and female scents in Aramis and Azuree.
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post #11 of 53
4/12/10 at 3:42pm
Aramis and Aramis Classic Reserve (which is even better)
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post #12 of 53
4/12/10 at 3:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gido View Post

all of these are leather chypres.

Yes, which is why I mention them in a thread about chypres.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fraddicted View Post

Aramis.

Oh, how could I have forgotten!
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post #13 of 53
4/12/10 at 3:54pm
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Does anybody else like Sagamore? I love this one for its complexity. It' s one of those fragrances that seem to dance on the skin before they settle down. You could even believe it has gone off. But no! that's the way it behaves... Lovely weird stuff.
I think Basala also quilifies as a chypre. This on is a very old love for me. One of those that I discovered long before I knew I was a fumehead. I still have a bottle and it is an absolute joy to wear.
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post #14 of 53
4/12/10 at 4:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Advocate View Post

Yes, which is why I mention them in a thread about chypres.

and that's good. i just wanted to point it out, because these belong in a rather different category from mitsouko and chanel pm, both being classic chypres. (and so is eau fraiche)

i should mention one of the very first and greatest leather chypres, knize ten. it is interesting that the great francois coty was one of the two perfumers who created it. and unlike anything by the coty brand, it is still in great shape.
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post #15 of 53
4/12/10 at 4:38pm
Tiffany for Men.

Not a "complete and original chypre structure" but a classic chypre nonetheless.
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post #16 of 53
4/12/10 at 6:13pm
Dont forget eau savauge
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post #17 of 53
4/12/10 at 7:52pm
Aramis, Chanel pour Monsieur
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post #18 of 53
4/12/10 at 9:12pm
Kouros is a GREAT chypre.
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post #19 of 53
4/12/10 at 10:10pm
I'm no chypre expert, but I gather Domenico Caraceni 1913 is considered a chyrpre and it's pretty awesome juice.
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post #20 of 53
4/12/10 at 11:25pm
Chanel Pour Monsieur is great
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post #21 of 53
4/13/10 at 3:07am
The classic chypre-vibe I get immediately from:

Mistouko
Chanel pour Monsieur
Eau Fraiche, Dior
Soul le Vent
Derby
Profumo (vintage) Acqua di Parma
Ô de Lancôme
Numero Uno, Carthusia
Albi, Laura Tonatto
XPEC Origianl
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post #22 of 53
4/13/10 at 3:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kxe003 View Post

Kouros is a GREAT chypre.

Isn't Kouros a fougere?
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post #23 of 53
4/13/10 at 3:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zliang View Post

Isn't Kouros a fougere?

yes, kouros is predominantly an aromatic fougere.
there's a chypre accord in there too, but only tertiary, after the aromatic fougere and the spices.
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post #24 of 53
4/13/10 at 5:26am
HERMÈS ' EQUIPAGE , IMO is the best !
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post #25 of 53
4/13/10 at 7:06am
I can`t believe that I`m first to mention Amouage Gold Man, Amouage Silver Man. Seems like nobody wears it?
Also - good old Boucheron pour homme! The EDP is brilliant!

(I believe that Kouros and Equipage are spicy fougeres (I always felt like this), but I could be wrong. As for Sagamore - I`d say spicy wood. But who cares?)
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post #26 of 53
4/13/10 at 6:41pm
Chanel PM is, imo, simply the king of classic masculine chypres. Subtle and beautiful.

But there are endless numbers of wonderful chypres for men to wear (many, of course, are marketed to women). Among those not yet mentioned: Bandit and Balmain de Balmain (the former is a leather chypre; the latter a very green chypre).
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post #27 of 53
4/13/10 at 8:25pm
In light of the current spirit of tolerance and respect for one another, perhaps it would be useful to preface anything one may be inclined to label as "masculine" or "feminine" with the qualifier "traditionally", so as to avoid confusion and conflict. I don't see how any of this helps the OP, who asked a good question and deserves thoughtful responses.

Monsieur, I think Halston Z-14 qualifies as a (traditionally ) "masculine chypre" and it is incredibly inexpensive in United States, if not elsewhere. Certainly one that I am really starting to come around on.
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post #28 of 53
4/13/10 at 8:31pm
The thing about chypres, to me, that makes them unique is that the scent is "abstract," in that I don't really equate it with anything in the "natural world," and yet it doesn't smell "synthetic." It also has good if not excellent dynamism.

As to the issue of a "masculine" chypre, the way I think of it is the chypre is the base, so the top notes can be "feminine" or "masculine," but after and hour or two you should end up in the same place. There might be a hint of this or that top/heart note, but the chypre base will likely be much more pronounced than anything else.
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post #29 of 53
4/13/10 at 8:42pm
***
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post #30 of 53
4/13/10 at 9:14pm
Giorgio Beverly Hills For Men. And I think if Chanel Pour Monsieur were instead called Wal-Mart Pour Monsieur it wouldn't get nearly as many accolades as it does. It's just so boring!
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post #31 of 53
4/13/10 at 10:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zliang View Post

Isn't Kouros a fougere?

"A divine and conquering spicy chypre fragrance with a powerful and intense trail." - www.ysl-parfums.com
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post #32 of 53
4/13/10 at 11:28pm
Sure - fragrances (and chypres as frag family) does not have gender.

It`s easy to understand though - that author of the thread means to know some chypres that were intentionally made for men, or pour homme. That bottles with "pour homme" or "for men" on them.

Nice question - I`m tired to read all the same great names of green or leather chypres made for fair half but good for guys. I`m glad to know about Tiffany FM and to remember Boucheron PH.
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post #33 of 53
4/14/10 at 2:26am
Fendi Uomo the real Masculine chypres
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post #34 of 53
4/14/10 at 3:24am
I think I removed most of the posts that are more about the gender of perfumes in general than anything else.

Please don't derail this thread again
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post #35 of 53
4/14/10 at 5:10am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post

It`s easy to understand though - that author of the thread means to know some chypres that were intentionally made for men, or pour homme. That bottles with "pour homme" or "for men" on them.

Yes, that was my intention exactly. Beyond my interest in chypres (a future purchase this year) I am very much interested in probing the concept of genre in perfumery (chypre, fougères, leathers, orientals...)
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post #36 of 53
4/14/10 at 10:40am
I'm joining the ranks of those who suggest Derby. It's marketed specifically to men, but happens to smell fantastic on me too.
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post #37 of 53
4/14/10 at 11:01am
My SOTD is a classic chypre marketed to men, R de Capucci.
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post #38 of 53
4/14/10 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fraddicted View Post

My SOTD is a classic chyphre marketed to men, R de Capucci.

That's such a great one, and sooooo versatile. I love wearing it!

My favorite masculine chypre, and one that I actually think of as "R de Capucci, now with spicy-skanky florals!", is Aramis 900.
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post #39 of 53
4/15/10 at 1:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kxe003 View Post

"Kouros - A divine and conquering spicy chypre fragrance with a powerful and intense trail." - www.ysl-parfums.com

That`s interesting news, thank you!

Now one could also visit www.chanel.com to find out that our beloved Chanel pour Monsieur is classified as fresh citrus fragrance, not chypre!
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post #40 of 53
4/15/10 at 8:55pm
The CpM is probably my 2nd fave Chypre, and it would have been my favorite Chypre if it is not so shy and a skin-scent even after an hour. I still like spraying it on the inside of my hat though as it makes it smell great every time I walk by my hatstand.

For regular wearing, my fave male Chypre would have to be Mitsouko.

Tiffany for Men smells to me more like a dry Woody Oriental although it stuns me how the opening smells so much like CpM.
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post #41 of 53
4/15/10 at 9:02pm
rive gauche
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post #42 of 53
4/15/10 at 11:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fraddicted View Post

My SOTD is a classic chypre marketed to men, R de Capucci.

I would agree with fraddicted that R de Capucci is a fantastic chypre, and well worth the effort to find a bottle. Another fragrance which meets your note requirements (bergamot, light floral notes, oakmoss and pachouli basenotes, with a bit of labdanum) and is an interesting, yet inexpensive chypre fragrance is One Man Show by Jacques Bogart [http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?d...cussionid=376]. Very interesting juice!
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post #43 of 53
4/16/10 at 12:24pm
^^^^^
SillageMonger, do you wear One Man show very often? Can you compare it to any other fragrances at all? I'm always so curious about this one because based on it's notes I think I would love it, and then I read such terrible reviews of it!....It's almost as divisive as Yatagan...which reminds me...

Yatagan is my other go-to masculine chypre, it's really a great one if you like herbal, rustic, natural scents. (However, it doesn't have that "classic" chypre structure you're specifically looking for Chassagne, i.e. I don't get citrus in the top notes at all and definitely no florals.)
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post #44 of 53
4/16/10 at 9:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post

rive gauche

Isn't that a classic barbershop fougere rather than a chypre?
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post #45 of 53
4/16/10 at 9:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by arlecchino View Post

^^^^^
SillageMonger, do you wear One Man show very often? Can you compare it to any other fragrances at all? I'm always so curious about this one because based on it's notes I think I would love it, and then I read such terrible reviews of it!....It's almost as divisive as Yatagan...which reminds me...

Yatagan is my other go-to masculine chypre, it's really a great one if you like herbal, rustic, natural scents. (However, it doesn't have that "classic" chypre structure you're specifically looking for Chassagne, i.e. I don't get citrus in the top notes at all and definitely no florals.)

It is definitely a maverick in the chypre world... it's the Desert Chypre. The high-plains sagebrush and cedar chypre... but not "classic chypre by any stretch.) (I love it nonetheless. It's chypre designed for the environment of my childhood.)
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post #46 of 53
4/16/10 at 10:11pm
arlecchino: I don't think of OMS as a chypre because I get little or no amber. Moreover, it doesn't come together to produce that unique accord I smell in Mitsouko or Pheromone for men. Instead, it's a nice blend of "masculine" notes. It's in the same category as Kouros, though, in that it is more of a blend with a lot of notes, and so it comes across as "old." It never registers as animalic to me, but rather there is an odd "root beer" like thing going on, which is the only reason it's on my swap list. I should probably try to dilute it and see it solves the problem, but I have a feeling that it won't. My guess is that if you have the right skin chemistry (that is, if your skin "eats up" frags) OMS will be a very pleasant experience.
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post #47 of 53
4/17/10 at 5:58am

Unabashedly called masculine by their houses or vendors:

(selection based on my personal preferences)

Fresh Chypres:

Williams Aqua Velva Ice BlueSt.
Laurent >YSL pour Homme<
Aramis Devin

Woody (green) Chypres:

Classic Vetivers (Vetyver) - by almost any house ...
Fendi Uomo
Givenchy Gentleman
Aramis 900
Delon Iquitos
Lord Molineux

Green Chypres :

Beene Grey Flannel
Dior Fahrenheit
Cerruti Non Cerruti
Knize >The Knize Two<
Lanvin Monsieur Lanvin, 1964 (discontinued)

Leathery Chypres:

Chanel Antaëus
Hermes Bel Ami
Piguet Cravache
Davidoff Davidoff
Loewe Esencia
Guerlain Derby
Balenciaga Ho Hang Club
Jil Sander Man Pure
Krizia Uomo
Léonard pour Homme
Moschino pour Homme
Bogart One Man Show
O de la Renta Pour Lui
Balenciaga Portos
Puig Quorum
Farina Russisch Leder
Knize >>The Knize Ten<<
Trussardi Uomo
Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels
Versace L'Homme
Caron Yatagan

(Leathery)-Coniferous Chypres :

Rochas Globe
Roger & Gallet L'Homme
Montana Homme
Aramis New West
Ralph Lauren Polo
Muelhens Sir(Irisch Moos)
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post #48 of 53
4/17/10 at 6:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by actiasluna View Post

It is definitely a maverick in the chypre world... it's the Desert Chypre. The high-plains sagebrush and cedar chypre... but not "classic chypre by any stretch.

i've never been in a desert but you could be right. yatagan is a dry woody scent.
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post #49 of 53
4/17/10 at 7:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arlecchino View Post

SillageMonger, do you wear One Man show very often? Can you compare it to any other fragrances at all? I'm always so curious about this one because based on it's notes I think I would love it, and then I read such terrible reviews of it!....It's almost as divisive as Yatagan...which reminds me...

Built on an traditional chypre frame is a dry, smoky, leathery, resinous fragrance without much of the floriental or fougere components usually used to dampen, fill out, or even take some of the edges off leather or green fragrances. That's not necessarily a bad thing!


If you ever needed an antidote for fresh clean sporty aquatics, One Man Show would be it.
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post #50 of 53
4/17/10 at 7:50am
More oldies:

Captain Molyneaux
Maxim's pour Homme
Giorgio of Beverly Hills VIP
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post #51 of 53
6/7/10 at 9:37pm
AFAIK Tactics by Shiseido was made for men, and it`s quite rare chypre.
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post #52 of 53
9/1/10 at 8:02pm
Emlynevermore: "In light of the current spirit of tolerance and respect for one another"...allow me to dictate how you should talk.
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post #53 of 53
9/1/10 at 8:42pm
Aramis 900
Aramis
Aramis Devin
One Man Show
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