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Une Fleur de Cassie and Cassie / Mimosa

post #1 of 73
4/15/10 at 8:40am
Thread Starter 
I would like to get a Frederic Malle perfume . I was thinking of Carnal Flower but my online travels lead me to read reviews about Une Fleur de Cassie.
People love it or hate it . Some say it makes them cry with beauty ,others say it stinks. So I'm confused. I searched good ole basenotes and I came up with this thread.
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215...mery?p=1328203
and

http://www.basenotes.net/threads/197...Frederic-Malle

Now I have ordered a 2 ml sample which I can't wait to receive .
I read that UFdC ( Une Fleur de Cassie ) is a top seller in Europe but not in the US.
Intriguing stuff !

Any thoughts about this perfume ,people ?
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post #2 of 73
4/15/10 at 9:13am
I don't know it mysticknot, but it's been on my radar simply because it's by Dominique Ropion. I tend to like his work, lush, romantic and intoxicating as it often is. I'd be interested to sniff his take on mimosa - I think it's just got to be something special. I'll be watching this thread with you, and I'm anxious to hear what you think about it when you get it on your skin!
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post #3 of 73
4/15/10 at 9:28am
Thread Starter 
I love Dominic Ropion's work- I think I'd like to meet the guy ! *LOL* I wish I could go back to Barney's and do a complete Malle sniffing session there.
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post #4 of 73
4/15/10 at 9:47am
I tested some FM's last summer on a rare excursion to Seattle, and Une Fleur de Cassie was the only one I fell hard for. (I received a bottle of it from my Secret Santa this past Christmas!) It has a "grand evening out" old-style perfume feel to it, but it is not in the least bit loud, and it is just wonderful.
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post #5 of 73
4/15/10 at 9:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

I love Dominic Ropion's work- I think I'd like to meet the guy ! *LOL* I wish I could go back to Barney's and do a complete Malle sniffing session there.

Me too! I'm wearing his Ysatis today, and I love Euphoria, Safari, Soir de Lune, Alien...my goodness he's responsible some real gems - that barely scratches the surface of his body of work. Not to sidetrack your thread (or completely hijack it - sorry!) but he's the reason I have high hopes for Armani's new Acqua di Gioia and Wanted by Helena Rubenstein (even if it is a celebuscent.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leesee View Post

I tested some FM's last summer on a rare excursion to Seattle, and Une Fleur de Cassie was the only one I fell hard for. (I received a bottle of it from my Secret Santa this past Christmas!) It has a "grand evening out" old-style perfume feel to it, but it is not in the least bit loud, and it is just wonderful.

I like your style Leesee, so this heightens my expectations!
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post #6 of 73
4/15/10 at 9:54am
I love Une Fleur de Cassie! The problem is that it does seem fleeting... I need to sample it again, I'll make it my mission for the weekend!

I've only tried it once, so maybe it is a bit premature to declare my love for it, but I got the same kind of warmth and salty sweat/stable association as in Chanel's Cuir de Russie; I really, really like this part.
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post #7 of 73
4/15/10 at 2:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leesee View Post

I tested some FM's last summer on a rare excursion to Seattle, and Une Fleur de Cassie was the only one I fell hard for. (I received a bottle of it from my Secret Santa this past Christmas!) It has a "grand evening out" old-style perfume feel to it, but it is not in the least bit loud, and it is just wonderful.

What a wonderful gift !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post

Me too! I'm wearing his Ysatis today, and I love Euphoria, Safari, Soir de Lune, Alien...my goodness he's responsible some real gems - that barely scratches the surface of his body of work. Not to sidetrack your thread (or completely hijack it - sorry!) but he's the reason I have high hopes for Armani's new Acqua di Gioia and Wanted by Helena Rubenstein (even if it is a celebuscent.)

I used to wear Ysatis ,ages ago ,for a while. I do like his style .

Quote:
Originally Posted by tott View Post

I love Une Fleur de Cassie! The problem is that it does seem fleeting... I need to sample it again, I'll make it my mission for the weekend!

I've only tried it once, so maybe it is a bit premature to declare my love for it, but I got the same kind of warmth and salty sweat/stable association as in Chanel's Cuir de Russie; I really, really like this part.

I love Cuir de Russie!
What scares me is that I read many reviews discussing the opening 30 minutes of this perfume- that it smells of paper, fresh paint. Some even go as far to say they smell urine.

The 'old -style ' appeals to me and I am not afraid of animalistic notes which seem to be soft on my skin .

I am alittle concerned re. 'fleeting' - again some say it's fleeting ,some say it lasts. Very confused on the whole. I have learnt not to blind buy( except for Carons ! ) and at Malle prices I can't afford to make a mistake.

Tott- please let us know what you think after your sniffing this weekend !
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post #8 of 73
4/15/10 at 3:22pm
Malle's Cassie is my favorite modern fragrance. I am of the camp that does not find it fleeting and am grateful for it.
Nothing, and I mean, nothing like it in the fragrance world of today.
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post #9 of 73
4/15/10 at 3:29pm
Thread Starter 
vidacon - welcome to Basenotes and thanks for your valuable input. You see, it's thoughts like yours that make me so intrigued by UFdC !
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post #10 of 73
4/15/10 at 3:52pm
Have you smelled Caron's Farnesiana? To my nose, Une Fleur de Cassie is Farnesiana minus the vanilla, but plus a very odd note i.e. Flowers, almond, and a note that baffles me but I'd describe as "air pollution".

That last note is what makes it distinctive, but I wouldn't call it smoky, dirty, or indolic. The only way I can describe it is: you're walking around in a place with a lot of traffic, and there is that taste and smell of exhaust fumes in the air and a slight "catch" in your throat. That is the note that bothers me in Une Fleur de Cassie, and the one that prevents me from "getting into" it the way I would otherwise.

While I found it much less heady than Carnal Flower, it's still reasonably strong in longevity if on the quiet side in sillage. I prefer Carnal Flower dabbed ( one spray is a huuuuuge amount from Frederic Malle bottles, I've found ), and Une Fleur de Cassie sprayed ( somehow it smells more floral and less "dense" that way ).

It's definitely one worth sampling, and I reserve the right to start appreciating it at some later date.
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post #11 of 73
4/15/10 at 3:58pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Galamb- I am looking forward to the Une Fleur de Cassie sample I ordered but I wait with a bit of trepidation too because of that air pollution note I keep hearing of ! I've not tried Farnesiana - I guess I ought to !
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post #12 of 73
4/15/10 at 4:10pm
UFdC has cumin worked into it, in a way that I can only compare to the way it is done in AG Songes. Very different fragrances, but the cumin is masterfully achieved in both, IMO. Cumin done properly, where almost inperceptible, is probably the new "dirty" note as there are so many restrictions in current times.
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post #13 of 73
4/15/10 at 4:11pm
Thanks for the warm welcome!
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post #14 of 73
4/15/10 at 4:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

vidacon - welcome to Basenotes and thanks for your valuable input. You see, it's thoughts like yours that make me so intrigued by UFdC !

Thanks for the warm welcome! Good to be here.
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post #15 of 73
4/15/10 at 5:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post

I like your style Leesee, so this heightens my expectations!

How flattering! And I like your style, too!
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post #16 of 73
4/15/10 at 5:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

Thanks Galamb- I am looking forward to the Une Fleur de Cassie sample I ordered but I wait with a bit of trepidation too because of that air pollution note I keep hearing of ! I've not tried Farnesiana - I guess I ought to !

If I recall correctly, Nostalgie is a big fan of Farnesiana -- she may also be a fan of UFdC, come to think of it. Maybe you should try to get her opinion?
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post #17 of 73
4/15/10 at 6:08pm
Thread Starter 
Nostalgieeeeeeeee !!!!! Whoo Hoo - where are you ???
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post #18 of 73
4/15/10 at 7:50pm
Thank you for the post, mysticknot. I am not too familiar with mimosa notes, only being aware of Guerlain's Champs-Elysees and the short-lived flanker Too Much. I blush at this, but will have to explore a bit more.

I also think Cuir de Russie is divine...aldyhydes, flowers and gentle leather...
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post #19 of 73
4/15/10 at 8:22pm
Hi,
Welcome!I am quite new myself here(a bit over month) but you have found yourself another one big fan of Une fleur de cassie by Fr.Male.It is one of my"want definitely to buy" scents!I have tried myself just a few drops of it, thanks to a loving friend of mine(thank you my dear ) and i consider it to be one of my favorite ever fragrances,you know!
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post #20 of 73
4/15/10 at 11:51pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sophi View Post

Hi,
Welcome!I am quite new myself here(a bit over month) but you have found yourself another one big fan of Une fleur de cassie by Fr.Male.It is one of my"want definitely to buy" scents!I have tried myself just a few drops of it, thanks to a loving friend of mine(thank you my dear ) and i consider it to be one of my favorite ever fragrances,you know!

Well, I am hoping to join the UFdC fanclub- I hope it does well on my skin- waiting on my sample !
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post #21 of 73
4/16/10 at 12:03am
You have to let us know what you think of it once you have had a chance to evaluate it for yourself! :-)
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post #22 of 73
4/16/10 at 2:03am
I consider Une Fleur de Cassie to be one of the best fragrances of the past 20 years, but the Frédéric Malle SAs, at least in Paris, tend to say that it is a "connoisseur's scent": it's not as easy to "get" as some of the house's other offerings. It is extremely complex and hard to pin down. I don't find it fleeting at all, but then fragrances tend to have good longevity on me.
I like Tott's association to Chanel Cuir de Russie: they're not similar at all but if you love one you could love the other -- I certainly do.
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post #23 of 73
4/16/10 at 2:20am
Hi everybody!
Out of my Malle samples,Cassie was,surprisingly, one of my favorites. And I'm no floral girl! It's my second choice on the "Malle-to buy list"..first one is, of course, M.Ravageur..
Actually, I don't find it stinky at all..only lovely, distinctive, old-style..it's funny, but my reaction was similar to another "badass":MKK. I had read soooo much about it, was insanely curious about how bad it would smell..and in the end..it was just perfect.
Let us know what you think when you smell it!
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post #24 of 73
4/16/10 at 2:29pm
Thread Starter 
Hmmm.. all good thoughts - thanks everyone !
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post #25 of 73
4/17/10 at 1:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by carmencanada View Post

I consider Une Fleur de Cassie to be one of the best fragrances of the past 20 years, but the Frédéric Malle SAs, at least in Paris, tend to say that it is a "connoisseur's scent": it's not as easy to "get" as some of the house's other offerings. It is extremely complex and hard to pin down. I don't find it fleeting at all, but then fragrances tend to have good longevity on me.

I agree with carmen - easily one of the best scents of the last twenty years. I'm not a floral gal and this has fruit too. It took me four tries to get it and when I finally did it was love.

The 'pee' note is due to the sage which, as Turin says, smells of urine to some. It's an extremely complex scent that somehow manages to smell floral, fruity, herbal and musky in different degrees. I adore the fact that it performs very differently, depending on the temperature. I never tire of it. When I wear it I'm always moved by the fact that DR had free reign and chose to create this particular scent.

I think the pollution thing is a combination of the sage note and also the musks used, that give a strange 'catch in the throat' effect. I personally love that musty note, reminding me of old books and damp earth.

It certainly splits opinions. The last time I wore it at work my boss wrinkled his nose and asked what the strange smell was 'like stale flower water in the bottom of a vase'. Pah - what does he know - he wears Lynx body spray!

Anyway, don't be surprised if you're not smitten at first sniff. It does take a few wears to 'get' it. It's a beauty, but as with all great beauties, its' unconvential aspects elevate it from the merely pretty, to breathtaking.
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post #26 of 73
4/17/10 at 6:12am
One of my favorite scents, and one that comes close to reminding me of real mimosa [the yellow fuzzy kind, not the kind with petals], precisely b/c it does not rely too much mimosa absolute for its identity.
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post #27 of 73
4/17/10 at 6:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

Nostalgieeeeeeeee !!!!! Whoo Hoo - where are you ???



I just saw this!!!

Hi mysticknot! I haven't been around for a while. I must have "heard" you call b/c I was drawn to the forum as I sipped my morning coffee today.

Farnesiana: I have read that it has been reformulated in a significant way. Mine is vintage, but I'm not sure how old. Very almondy, with a start that is shockingly sweet, but that is balanced bitterness, even dirtiness (but not skank, no armpits, no sweat), and an almost tangy quality. A peculiar, fairly assertive bitter-sweet combo. On this hot day I find it cloying, but in other weather it is just right.

I don't find Farnesiana (the formulation I have, ay least) to be too much like UFdC in more than a general way, not literally and not in mood. But I like it very much when I can tolerate all the almond (heliotriope, I think and maybe lots of mimosa absolute which can be almondy)

UFdC is in a category of its own, though, so strange, wonderful, unique...a little almondy (but not sweet) in the very beginning, but that fades off quickly.

I feel as if Ropion is the only perfumer who "gets" the infidelity of mimosa absolute, adjusts, and builds around that "corrected" mimosa note to capture the dusty, sort of bleachy quality of real mimosa. But then he doesn't stop there.

So UFdC gives me my mimosa fix and then moves beyond that...glorious.
[The odd, male-armpit note is cuminy to me]
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post #28 of 73
4/17/10 at 8:42am
Well, seeing how this is my SotM(orning), here is my two cents worth. Take this for what it is worth as I am in NO WAY an expert AND this is my very first wearing...

First impression is an initial old school floral, smells vintage
Damp, slight aquatic note
A tiny bit of overripe cantaloupe for melon for a fleeting minute
Unbaked yeast dough
Cold frag that reminds me of Hermes Hiris, that damp cold earthy root/veg note
Not a big floral, wears very close to my skin

I have had this on my skin for twenty minutes or so and it is only vaguely floral at this point.
The initial floral opening does not last long on my skin
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post #29 of 73
4/17/10 at 8:43am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post

I just saw this!!!

Hi mysticknot! I haven't been around for a while. I must have "heard" you call b/c I was drawn to the forum as I sipped my morning coffee today.

Farnesiana: I have read that it has been reformulated in a significant way. Mine is vintage, but I'm not sure how old. Very almondy, with a start that is shockingly sweet, but that is balanced bitterness, even dirtiness (but not skank, no armpits, no sweat), and an almost tangy quality. A peculiar, fairly assertive bitter-sweet combo. On this hot day I find it cloying, but in other weather it is just right.

I don't find Farnesiana (the formulation I have, ay least) to be too much like UFdC in more than a general way, not literally and not in mood. But I like it very much when I can tolerate all the almond (heliotriope, I think and maybe lots of mimosa absolute which can be almondy)

UFdC is in a category of its own, though, so strange, wonderful, unique...a little almondy (but not sweet) in the very beginning, but that fades off quickly.

I feel as if Ropion is the only perfumer who "gets" the infidelity of mimosa absolute, adjusts, and builds around that "corrected" mimosa note to capture the dusty, sort of bleachy quality of real mimosa. But then he doesn't stop there.

So UFdC gives me my mimosa fix and then moves beyond that...glorious.
[The odd, male-armpit note is cuminy to me]

Nostaglie - thanks for 'hearing ' me call ! And for your great opinions about Farnesiana and Une Fleur de Cassie. I will give both a try !
It's funny - but most perfumes that people describe as ' skanky' and dirty are really not so on my skin except for L'air de Rien .
( Even Muscs Koublai Khan which I tested at the Scent Bar was not very skanky to me . )
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post #30 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:06am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by *bloomy* View Post

Well, seeing how this is my SotM(orning), here is my two cents worth. Take this for what it is worth as I am in NO WAY an expert AND this is my very first wearing...

First impression is an initial old school floral, smells vintage
Damp, slight aquatic note
A tiny bit of overripe cantaloupe for melon for a fleeting minute
Unbaked yeast dough
Cold frag that reminds me of Hermes Hiris, that damp cold earthy root/veg note
Not a big floral, wears very close to my skin

I have had this on my skin for twenty minutes or so and it is only vaguely floral at this point.
The initial floral opening does not last long on my skin

Bloomy -I am abit half dead this morning and I am sorry I missed your post earlier. Thanks for your impressions..... I'll add mine as soon as I get my sample and test.
Is the 'unbaked yeast dough' note good or not good ??

I like Hiris - cold and damp,earthy sounds good!
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post #31 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

Nostaglie - thanks for 'hearing ' me call ! And for your great opinions about Farnesiana and Une Fleur de Cassie. I will give both a try !

I knew she'd be able to help. (Welcome back, Nostalgie!)
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post #32 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:13am
Une Fleur de Cassie has been on my skin for an hour now and I still smell a very slight powdery mimosa and some very faint wood and that underlying carrot like note. However it is practically gone, I really have to press my nose to my arm to sniff it. I sprayed each arm twice, maybe I need to put more on???

Will try a heavier application the second time around...
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post #33 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:20am
I'm wearing UFdC today, I actually bought it yesterday. There are no "pretty" flowers and it's kind of murky, earthy maybe. And there's something animalic in there. Whatever it is, I really enjoy it and don't think I will regret my purchase!

The longevity seems to be excellent btw, but it wears close to the skin. It's far from being a sillage bomb.
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post #34 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post

Bloomy -I am abit half dead this morning and I am sorry I missed your post earlier. Thanks for your impressions..... I'll add mine as soon as I get my sample and test.
Is the 'unbaked yeast dough' note good or not good ??

I like Hiris - cold and damp,earthy sounds good!

The doughy note does not last long and it's not bad. If you like Hiris, you will like this. I will keep trying until my sample is gone, it is an intriguing frag. But I am not sure I would buy a bottle for myself just yet for the following reasons:

1) Seems to be rather fleeting on my skin.

2) I live in a cold damp state, not sure I need more cold dampness via a frag. I feel the same way about Hiris, it's beautiful and different which I LOVE, but since the weather really affects me and it never gets hot enough here to need that cold damp feeling.

3) Since I am so new to this line, there are other FM frags I would rather spend my money on.
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post #35 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tott View Post

I'm wearing UFdC today, I actually bought it yesterday. There are no "pretty" flowers and it's kind of murky, earthy maybe. And there's something animalic in there. Whatever it is, I really enjoy it and don't think I will regret my purchase!

The longevity seems to be excellent btw, but it wears close to the skin. It's far from being a sillage bomb.

Hi tott, Just curious how much do you have to spray to get good longevity?
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post #36 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:39am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tott View Post

I'm wearing UFdC today, I actually bought it yesterday. There are no "pretty" flowers and it's kind of murky, earthy maybe. And there's something animalic in there. Whatever it is, I really enjoy it and don't think I will regret my purchase!

The longevity seems to be excellent btw, but it wears close to the skin. It's far from being a sillage bomb.

Congrats on your purchase Tott !
Bloomy - I am so intrigued by this perfume .
Gonna go check my mailbox ..............
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post #37 of 73
4/17/10 at 9:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by *bloomy* View Post

Hi tott, Just curious how much do you have to spray to get good longevity?

I spray twice on the neck (one spray on each side) and twice on sternum/stomach.

And thanks mysticknot !
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post #38 of 73
4/17/10 at 10:55am
[Hi, Leesee!]
I agree with Tott--UFdC does not go in a "pretty flowers" direction--which I like.

I sprayed one arm with UFdC and the other with Farnesiana over four hours ago. Only a very small spritz on each arm, and since then I've walked dogs and weeded the garden in hot sun.

Une Fleur de Cassie has held up very well, though not surprisingly, the Farnesiana is stronger. The Farnesiana has a lovely drydown--quite pretty and sweet beside UFdC, but with nice depth.

I just love tht earthy, dirt, quirkly personality of UFdC.
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post #39 of 73
4/18/10 at 1:58pm
Une Fleur de Cassie is probably my favorite Malle and one of my all-time favs. It's a very strange floral (strange in the CDG-sense), that to me, smells like someone actually pulled the roots of a very fresh flower out of very pungent soil. It also has a waxy element to it. You can easily smell the mimosa because it has the same qualities of mimosa that's found in other perfumes (L'artisan's Mimosa, Farensiana), but here it is mixed with cumin and God knows what else. The drydown is my favorite part of the fragrance, as it smells fuzzy and intimate. I remember the first time I smelt UFdC, I was in Liberty on a VERY cold evening just a few days before Christmas, and there were shoppers everywhere. It was chaotic in there! I spritzed a lot on my cashmere sweater to get a feel of it. I loved it so much I bought it on the spot! When I got home, I smelled my sweater and I got the impression that the drydown was similar to cashmere: the fuzzy, soft comforting qualities it has.
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post #40 of 73
4/19/10 at 5:09pm
Thread Starter 
Whoppeee ! I got my sample of Une Fleur de Cassie this afternoon and it's a good thing I did not have anything else on so I could spritz away to test it out.

Scent- nice review ! It is fuzzy smelling and intimate.

To summarize- Une Fleur de Cassie- nothing to be afraid of. No cat pee, no air pollution ,no skank !

Opening notes- green floral,soft and then it takes on a floral powder which becomes bigger.It reminds me of a 1930s woman sitting at her vanity - a mixture of perfume ,flowers and powder. It's a beautiful vintage smelling scent.



Instead of the air pollution note, I get a kind of haziness, a fogginess which reminds me of this impressionist style painting by Jan Blencowe .....



.....the whole perfume is a kind of floral, violetty haze, lightly sweet, delicate. There is an underscore of green throughout which I like ,it cuts through that foggy flower note.

Beautiful ,so different form Carnal Flower which has a different beauty and appeal .
Carnal Flower - bold, cold yet warm ,full blown in your face tuberose.
Une Fleur de Cassie- whispery, powdery , sweet woman's skin.

I think it will take more than one sampling to decide if I want to buy a full bottle though. i'm not sure if it's 'me', as such. I'm not really a delicate flower ! *LOL*
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post #41 of 73
4/19/10 at 6:01pm
Fantastic review, mysticknot -- thanks for sharing!
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post #42 of 73
4/19/10 at 7:30pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Lessee- this perfume does last too !
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post #43 of 73
4/19/10 at 11:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tott View Post

I've only tried it once, so maybe it is a bit premature to declare my love for it, but I got the same kind of warmth and salty sweat/stable association as in Chanel's Cuir de Russie; I really, really like this part.

Oh dear. My poor credit card is already on Xanax, but I think it's going to need shock treatment if it catches me reading this thread.

I tried to put this line on hold, as Noir Epices and Vetiver Extraordinaire are clogging up my list of must-haves, but this sounds like it could be the one...
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post #44 of 73
4/19/10 at 11:53pm
"Une Fleur de Cassie- whispery, powdery , sweet woman's skin."

Mysticknot,
This three words description of yours ,is the best !!!
I had said before...Welcome to the Club!!!
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post #45 of 73
4/20/10 at 6:25am
Love the florals, the vintage feel and rather French vibes. I get the dirty little note which someone once described to me as 'unwashed butts' (lol) but only up close. In sillage it comes across as a mature, sexy floral. I find its more prominent florals remind me more of Patou 1000 than Chanel Cuir de Russie. Pretty decent longevity on my skin. One of Ropion's better creations, IMO.

In other words, CONGRATS, tott!
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post #46 of 73
4/20/10 at 7:47am
Fabulous review mystic - I think those Xerjoff samples really brought out the eloquent critic in you! But about UFdC - what I need to know is have you detected any of the cumin that vidacon says is in there? I'm trying not to shun any- and eveything with cumin in it forever, but I do need to be wary of it because it can really ruin an otherwise incredible fragrance for me (e.g., Kingdom.) I can handle a bit of vague dirtiness or raunch, but if it is at all recognizable as cumin then it can be a deal-breaker.
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post #47 of 73
4/20/10 at 8:13am
Thread Starter 
sean-dt- it's funny - I did the Frederic Malle questionnaire and they suggested Noir Epices and Carnal Flower for me.

Sophi- Thanks ! It is really quite a unique perfume and distinctive.I found it lasts and lasts on my skin which normally eats everything in a few hours.

Evangeline- yeah - Xerjoff I think helped me review better ! *LOL* I tried hard to smell that cumin note- nope- I didn't smell any cumin- I think it' very well blended ,very very little skank ,if any at all. I think maybe the cumin just adds warmth in this perfume rather than anything skanky .
It's a beauty, this perfume.
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post #48 of 73
4/20/10 at 8:35am
You're such a lovely and attentive hostess - thanks again! It's now on my list, and I look forward to sampling this gorgeous-sounding perfume!
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post #49 of 73
4/20/10 at 8:36am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post

You're such a lovely and attentive hostess - thanks again! It's now on my list, and I look forward to sampling this gorgeous-sounding perfume!

You're welcome babe.
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post #50 of 73
4/20/10 at 11:25am
Lovely review! I'm glad your experience of Une Fleur de Cassie was untempered with by smog. The images you chose to go along with it were perfect; I especially like the painting.
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post #51 of 73
6/6/11 at 2:30am
I want to bump this excellent thread!
I was inspired by another thread to give Caron's Farnesiana, a perfume I originally dismissed, another try. Fortunately, I left one arm perfume-free today
I quite like Farnesiana this time... it's a both very green and warm vibe with little sweetness when sniffed with my nose at my wrist... funnily, when the extrait progressed to the heart what I got from a distance was a very almondy flavor, still not gourmandy to me. Up close it still maintained the initial impression, clearly reminding me of Apres L'Ondee with a pastry touch and slightly richer.
Then, I sprayed Une Fleur de Cassie, my favorit Malle, further up my arm. I have nearly gone through the 50 ml bottle and fortunately have a 100 ml back-up. I like it for the 'floral' interpretation better since it avoids any pastry-like associations in general. I get the skanky feel in the beginning, which I absolutely adore. Scent's description makes me regret that I actually did not touch my bottle last winter, but definitely will do next winter. I agree it is long-lived, wears (very) close to the skin and dries down heavenly. My only ' complaint' with Une Fleur de Cassie is that it has a slightly 'sterile' undertone woven into the accord, so maybe this is exactly what Sugandaraja and others in this thread have referred to similarly.
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post #52 of 73
6/6/11 at 2:59am
Nice review Larimar.

Oddly, my views on Une Fleur de Cassie and Farnesiana have switched due to a reformulation and yearly increased tolerance of "off" notes.

I love the old Farnesiana. The new Farnesiana is, like many of the Caron reformulations, a completely different fragrance. All the density and plushness have been removed, along with the apricot-y mimosa, and replaced by a rather obvious-smelling ylang-ylang. It went from apricot tart to banana split! What used to be a 5-star is now 2-stars from; it's not offensive, but it's bland.

Une Fleur de Cassie retains much of the old thick "doughiness" that Farnesiana lost. In fact, it's more like Farnesiana than the modern changeling that took Farnesiana's name. I don't like it quite as much as the now-lost Farnesiana, but if I want to smell Farnesiana "alive" once more, Une Fleur de Cassie is my best option. I'll definitely rustle up a decant of Une Fleur some day, though it's not my favorite Malle.
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post #53 of 73
6/6/11 at 3:09am
Thanks
My extrait sample for Farnesiana is 2010 from Caron, Paris. I cannot speak for any vintage forms or other concentrations, however I can still see it clearly related to Une Fleur de Cassie as far as the 'floral' accord' is concerned. Ylang-ylang you say? Interesting... will have to cross-check more and definitely get a quality essential oil of Ylang-ylang, which has been on my mind for weeks now stemming from discovering my way of wearing Chanel's Cuir de Russie parfum with great joy.
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post #54 of 73
6/6/11 at 5:35am
Update on the base/deep base development on my skin - Une Fleur de Cassie vs. Farnesiana Extrait
Une Fleur de Cassie maintains the aura, whereas Farnesiana steers fairly close into Shalimar territory (vanilla and opoponax) - I would say modern EdP the most.
EDIT: Again 1 1/2 hours later I'd say it quite reminds me of Ambre Precieux. Excellent longevity as you can tell.
A development that is interesting, but you will have to want to take that journey. Farnesiana gets sweeter and sweeter (vanilla) as the acacia/cassie accord pulls back/ fades and it reaches a point of maximum sweetness that I am willing to accept. For a cassie/ acacia fix I would recommend Une Fleur de Cassie in the first instance. I am revising my opinion on Farnesiana ( which was pretty much something like 'of no interest'), which needs a full wearing next.
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post #55 of 73
6/6/11 at 9:16am
Thread Starter 
Great review Larimar.
I must say I m very partial to Farnesiana myself- the new version . Yet another lemming - I will get at some point no doubt. I have never tried the vintage and that's probably a good thing ! *LOL*
Farnesiana on me is very thick almondy and dusty gourmand I guess. It's beautiful and very long lasting . It also reminds me of Alessandro by Mazzalori except the Mazzalori is 'rougher' on me .
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post #56 of 73
6/6/11 at 9:52am
Great thread - missed it first time round.

Une Fleur de Cassie is one of my personal favourites, from the first time I tried it the un-sweetened dusty floral evoked a feeling of 1930s salon culture (I would really like to know how/why?) and it was interesting to see you mention the same era Mimi . . . I also think Leesee's description is very apt. It's quite unique, this one, larger than life but also 'quiet' - I think it's great that Malle and Ropion created something so totally out of whack with prevailing trends. L'Eau d'Hiver is another one that flies in the face of all current trends - that one was clearly Ellena's tribute to an even earlier era with Aprés l'Ondée. Farnesiana is the one I have to track down, now. Thanks to everyone for such a good read!
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post #57 of 73
6/6/11 at 4:01pm
I loved Une Fleur de Cassie but had forgotten that cassie was closely related to mimosa. Since then I tried Mimosa pour Moi and hated it, and I don't much like Champs-Élysées so I've been dismissing mimosa fragrances.

I can see how some people find this a bit dirty, but there's just a hint of that. It's one of those scents I (think I could) wear day in and day out for months. Interesting but fairly natural and quiet - it doesn't announce "I'm wearing perfume."

It's good to know I shouldn't be quite so dismissive of mimosa. I guess I should try Farnesiana. How does Farnesiana compare to Champs-Élysée or Mimosa pour Moi?
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post #58 of 73
6/6/11 at 11:06pm
I really enjoy Une Fleur de Cassie and wear it often. I love that it always reminds me of my old Vermont summer smells: weed flowers blowing in the wind by a dirt road and a slight chlorine water smell that reminds me of warm days by the pool all mixed with something along the lines of wheat flour in big wooden barrels at the local general store. I realize these are very personal associations but it is extremely evocative for me and for that I hope to always have it in my collection.
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post #59 of 73
6/11/11 at 4:30pm
I just received my blind-buy purchase from Les Senteurs (wonderful shop and people, btw!). It was instant love. There is a doughy quality, but it's unmistakably floral in nature. There is a slight spiciness which keeps this from being sweet or overbearing. I can see how the doughy quality could be interpreted as being slightly 'breezy' with it's inherent yeastiness. Anyway, just adding my love for this fragrance. Not enough talk about Une Fleur de Cassie!
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post #60 of 73
2/7/12 at 8:25am
Diamondflame, I know you also like Le Perfume de Therese. Would you please compare its effect to that of Cassies's? And if you are up to it, throw Portrait of a Lady in as well ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post

Love the florals, the vintage feel and rather French vibes. I get the dirty little note which someone once described to me as 'unwashed butts' (lol) but only up close. In sillage it comes across as a mature, sexy floral. I find its more prominent florals remind me more of Patou 1000 than Chanel Cuir de Russie. Pretty decent longevity on my skin. One of Ropion's better creations, IMO.

In other words, CONGRATS, tott!
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