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The"lipstick" accord...what causes it?

post #1 of 10
4/27/10 at 2:37pm
Thread Starter 
Certain frags like Kenzo Power, Dior Homme, and to an extent Magnetism have it to my nose. Could also be described as that 'crayon' or the 'bottom of a makeup bag' scent. What notes should I be looking for so I can avoid this?
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post #2 of 10
4/27/10 at 2:42pm
What you're smelling is a combination of iris and leather note. The best demonstration of this note is the mid-note of Hermes' Kelly Caleche; which smells to me as if it's one of the perfume bases used in making Dior Homme.
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post #3 of 10
4/27/10 at 3:33pm
Iris and leather?!

I thought it was the iris alone?!
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post #4 of 10
4/27/10 at 3:38pm
Iris plus leather makes some sense..purse=leather; iris=lipstick.

That would explain the "mom's purse" smell in the opening notes of Dior Homme.
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post #5 of 10
4/27/10 at 3:52pm
Grand Duc: Iris by itself smells more like SL Iris Silver Mist or Chanel's 28 La Pausa. If you ever have a chance to smell either of them, that's how you know what iris should smell like. The smell of iris reminds me of carrot roots actually.

Like I said above, the moment I smelled Hermes' Kelly Caleche I thought, "Smells like an expensive women's leather bag". Dior Homme doesn't elicit that reaction from me because it's got a warm gourmandy amber wrapped around the iris/leather.
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post #6 of 10
4/27/10 at 3:54pm
I'm no expert, but everytime this subject has been up,
ppl say it's the iris that makes the make-up smell.
I don't care what it is, though ... I LOOOVE IT!
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post #7 of 10
4/27/10 at 4:21pm
I'd say some interpretations of iris definitely are responsible for "lipstick". Not so sure about leather, as I've smelled a number of leather-free frags that smell very lipstick-like, including Lipstick Rose and Iris Pallida.

Now a "women's purse" accord definitely has some leather! I think the most vividly I've smelled this isn't in one fragrance, but when I struck-out and decided to do a decidedly odd layering of L'Arte di Gucci and Oud Cuir d'Arabie. The smell is amazingly real from two seperate fragrances that don't really smell that way on their own...
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post #8 of 10
4/27/10 at 5:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le Grand Duc View Post

I'm no expert, but everytime this subject has been up,
ppl say it's the iris that makes the make-up smell.
I don't care what it is, though ... I LOOOVE IT!

+ 1 I love Dior Homme Line............Dior Homme Intense is amazing
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post #9 of 10
4/27/10 at 11:31pm
Although we tend to say iris, the lipstick/makeup smell comes from orris - the root of the iris plant, not the flower. Orris was used in cosmetics for a long time, giving make-up it's distinctive smell.

There's a thread about the "lipstick note" in Dior Homme here: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/247...-like-lipstick. Mrclmind's second post there is very informative.
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post #10 of 10
4/28/10 at 12:09am
edit: Mr. Bon Vivant beat me to it.
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