I just bought a fresh bottle of Eau de Guerlain from the Guerlain boutique in Orlando/Disney and on the box its listed that it contains Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) extract. Not tree moss, but oakmoss. Not that I can detect a lot of it in the juice, but yea, its there. So the industry regulations haven't totally killed off oakmoss.
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Oakmoss in Eau de Guerlain
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4/28/10 at 10:35pm
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IFRA has persuaded the EC to restrict finished fragrances to contain no more than 0.1% oakmoss absolute, and that it should not exceed 1% of the total odorant material in the composition. This is said to be because of allergic reactions to oakmoss on the part of some people. The levels prescribed were ostensibly put in place to protect those with oakmoss allergy.
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Since I am the high priest of Mitsouko it really burns me up that because a very vew people who are allergic to Oakmoss should dictate that the rest of us must suffer for the loss of Oakmoss in our beloved Mitsouko. The IFRA's actions are illogical when a simple disclaimer on the label would suffice to ward off a rash. Some of the chemical components of gasoline have, I understand, been linked to cancer but we still use gasoline in our cars. Perhaps because some people are allergic to milk we should close all of the dairies. Utter nonesense and very bad science!
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4/30/10 at 4:45am
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I've never smelled the old juice, however, I'm a big fan of the current stuff. It's great for the hotter weather and for a Guerlain 'Eau' the longevity is historic - it lasts forever on me! Pretty complex and interesting to my nose at least - Mike, if you can find a recent bottle for a reasonable price on Ebay I'd give it a go - I've not smelled anything else quite like it.
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I own both new and vintage, and the difference I detect is minimal. Maybe the vintage feels a tad softer and less biting, which could be due to ageing alone. But not more rich nor complex. Robert Granai's original "grind stone" bottle was gorgeous, but I also love the turquoise labeled bee edition. And the new label is really handsome too, very nostalgic! I'd take a newish bottle anytime.
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Quote:
I haven't tried the vintage but this currently smells good as it is. I don't think its 5 stars good but it is one of the better EDCs around. Its definitely not as good as Mouchier de Monsieur in my book.
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