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What "modern" frags give a nod to (1) L'Heure Bleue or (2) the classic French feel?

post #1 of 23
4/29/10 at 1:06am
Thread Starter 
It's almost time for a sample spree (probably Lucky Scent and Les Senteurs). How big a binge depends a bit on this thread. Please help me find scents in the following two categories:

1) Gives a nod to L'Heure Bleue:

I love the "cool, blue" vibe of LHB. Is it the heliotrope and orris? I also find this in varying degrees in Arpege PH, Jaipur Homme and Lolita Lempicka.

Or it could be a different twist on LHB. I read that both Parfumerie Generale's Bois de Copaiba and Grossmith's Shem el-Nessim give a nod to the grand dame. ?

2) Something that successfully adapts the classic French perfume feel. One example is Hermes' 24, Faubourg. I love the animalic and slightly barnyard notes in the edt. It feels classic, but I don't feel like I'm wearing a vintage perfume, if that makes sense. And it was released in 1995! Any other "modern" frags that successfully pull off the French vibe?

*Orientals, florientals and gourmands only please!*
*Can be marketed to men or women (i.e. BN standards in effect).*
*Designer or niche.*

Details and "reasons why" most welcome. Thanks for the suggestions!
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post #2 of 23
4/29/10 at 5:44am
Sacrebleu by Parfums de Nicolaï.
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post #3 of 23
4/29/10 at 6:01am
Paul et Joe Bleu, a Pierre Bourdon creation in a very Guerlain-esque mode. I'd say it owes more to Shalimar, but it is certainly built along the line of a 'French classic'.
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post #4 of 23
4/29/10 at 7:05am
Bulgari Black
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post #5 of 23
4/29/10 at 7:58am
Amouage Ubar, Gold & Dia Woman all feel quite classically French to me - varying degrees of 'grande dame-ness'.

Acqua di Parma Profumo certainly has a classic floral chypre quality.

+1 Sacrebleu and raise you Odalisque from the PdN line, and I agree that PG Bois de Copaiba references LHB specifically.

Looking forward to other opinions - these are just from my very limited personal experience.
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post #6 of 23
4/29/10 at 8:38am
also say Bvlgari Black. Only it has more vanilla...

I own both Sacrebleu and L'heure, and find no similarity.

Sacrebleu is just a cute fruity floral. L'heure bleue is diffrent business.
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post #7 of 23
4/29/10 at 8:53am
Iris Poudre for the powdery feel and Douce Amere for the cool-yet-warm feel.
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post #8 of 23
4/29/10 at 9:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by w3pearl View Post

also say Bvlgari Black. Only it has more vanilla...

I own both Sacrebleu and L'heure, and find no similarity.

Sacrebleu is just a cute fruity floral. L'heure bleue is diffrent business.

Agree - LHB is a very different business from pretty well anything out there - but the question is also about contemporary perfumes with a classic French feel.
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post #9 of 23
4/29/10 at 9:54am
1) Luctor et Emergo by People of the Labyrinths for the almondy/heliptrope feel and/or Jubilation 25 by Amouage for that classic/oriental feel

2) Please try Egoiste by Chanel. The most 'Guerlain' of the whole Chanel line, IMO.
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post #10 of 23
4/29/10 at 10:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by w3pearl View Post

...Sacrebleu is just a cute fruity floral...

Whoa! Really? I don't get that at all.
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post #11 of 23
4/29/10 at 11:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post

Whoa! Really? I don't get that at all.

I wrote it all clear in my short review to it. That's what I smell. <(...)a warm berried "blossomied" floral fruity. (...)>

...far from L'Heure Bleue anyway...

noses are diffrent, I guess.
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post #12 of 23
4/29/10 at 1:46pm
it's very difficult to buy it because now discontinued, but I think Quand vient la pluie
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post #13 of 23
4/29/10 at 2:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by soirdelune View Post

paul et joe bleu, a pierre bourdon creation in a very guerlain-esque mode. I'd say it owes more to shalimar, but it is certainly built along the line of a 'french classic'.

bingo...
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post #14 of 23
4/29/10 at 3:02pm
I was enormously impressed by Amouage's Ubar recently. It really smelled like a vintage French creation, the mixture of jasmine, rose, iris, civet, and incense giving it a very abstract and beautiful effect. It's smoothly animalic, richly oriental, yet soft and shaded, too; not powerfully heady like Poison and its relatives, but something from an earlier time, perhaps the '20s or '30s.
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post #15 of 23
4/29/10 at 4:46pm
Une Fleur de Cassie by Frederic Malle- vintage in feel .
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post #16 of 23
4/29/10 at 4:54pm
Teo Cabanel's Alahine harkens to a classic feel and time, but bridges the gap beautifully.
Could possibly be unisex because it is never sweet, just classic feeling.
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post #17 of 23
4/29/10 at 5:46pm
HI, do you consider LB to be a signature scent? What strength?
If it's EDP or Parum, you may find Mona di Orio's Oiro interesting. it's heavier on the vetiver and jasmine, and it will depend on your chemistry how much that will come out.
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post #18 of 23
4/29/10 at 5:57pm
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier: George Sand
Patchouli that time forgot. No head shop.
[Nothing like l'Heure bleue, but has a solid, classic feel, yet is easier to wear than many of the true classics]
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post #19 of 23
4/29/10 at 6:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier: George Sand
Patchouli that time forgot. No head shop.
[Nothing like l'Heure bleue, but has a solid, classic feel, yet is easier to wear than many of the true classics]

Oh yes, MPG George Sand is quite wonderful - like Opium but smoother I guess.
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post #20 of 23
4/29/10 at 9:05pm
1) Guerlain's own L'Heure Bleu update, Insolense EdP. Maurice Roucel took the original apart and made it modern and loud. Great stuff after the first hour, spray lightly.
2) Juliet Has a Gun Calamity J., smells like a modern, vanilla/amber Guerlain.
HAPPY HUNTING!
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post #21 of 23
4/30/10 at 12:20pm
Modern frags with a classic French vibe:

Miller Harris Noix de Tubereuse reminds me of L'Origan,

and MDCI Enlevement au Serail reminds me of Rochas Femme.

Modern L'Heure Bleue type frags: Andy Tauer's Le Maroc pour Elle has long reminded me of L'Heure Bleue.
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post #22 of 23
4/30/10 at 10:12pm
Thread Starter 
Wow! You all seem to "get" exactly what I'm looking for. Many good points made, and well put: 'Guerlain-esque', ' bridges the gap beautifully', 'like Opium but smoother'...

@ BayKAT: Yes, I do consider LHB to be a signature scent, followed closely by Shalimar. I prefer the edp and parfum for myself, and my family likes the way the vintage edc smells on me.

@nyneve: "It's very difficult to buy it because now discontinued, but I think Quand vient la pluie." ARGH! You're killing me! Discontinued? I must be out of the loop. I've been counting on trying this for quite a while now…

Thank you everyone for the recommends! You've gotten me excited!


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post #23 of 23
5/1/10 at 11:07am
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque and Iris Silver Mist
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon and 28 La Pausa
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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › What "modern" frags give a nod to (1) L'Heure Bleue or (2) the classic French feel?