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Nicolai Pour Homme by Parfums de Nicolai

post #1 of 33
5/24/10 at 8:15pm
Thread Starter 
I have only sampled a handful of PdN fragrances: New York I found a bit dull and lifeless. Maharanih and Maharadjah were unique and very spicy (one of my favorite categories) but the dissonance and sharpness (aldehydes?) made me uncomfortable when I wore them. Now here comes along Nicolai Pour Homme (well, technically it was released in 2003) and wowit has impressed me instantly.

I knew it had lavender, so I sprayed it on expecting that typical medicinal, sharp, aromatic accord I am so familiar with, and love. But it doesnt have lavender in the top noteswhat it opens up with is a skin cooling green blast of minty galbanum, that actually smells cold to my nose. The 1st time I sampled it I sprayed some on after a morning gym routine so perhaps my nose is associating the scent with refreshment but nonetheless I was pleasantly surprised to find it had a cooling effect on my skin. And then, almost immediately afterwards, I was rewarded with a nice soft blanket of lavender. Not sweet or too sharp rather a dry, well-lit and sophisticated lavendermiles away from the homeopathic accords found in so many simple lavender waters and yet more modern than Guerlains classic fougere workhorses (Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur). Let's call the NPH esoteric lavender.

If the scent just stopped there, Id be more than happy but I was tickled to find that after it dries down it morphs into a wonderfully amber and spice prominent masculine oriental. The spices, woods and the tiniest bit of tobacco are sheer, easy to wear in the hot Miami weather were experiencing this week and yet Im at a loss for another scent to compare this to because its sounique.

Is it a summer oriental? Or an amber prominent green scent? Or both and a little bit of something else?

Id love to hear from other Basenoters who enjoy this scent. When I searched for a thread just on this scent, the last one I could find was in 2007. WTF? We need to talk about this one more. Its brilliant. And affordable too ($79 for 100 ml)!
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post #2 of 33
5/24/10 at 8:42pm
mikeperez23; Mike, Could you elaborate a bit more about why Maharanih made you feel uncomfortable? I have been pondering trying this fragrance so my interest in your thoughts is therein grounded.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I have only sampled a handful of PdN fragrances: New York I found a bit dull and lifeless. Maharanih and Maharadjah were unique and very spicy (one of my favorite categories) but the dissonance and sharpness (aldehydes?) made me uncomfortable when I wore them. Now here comes along Nicolai Pour Homme (well, technically it was released in 2003) and wow…it has impressed me instantly.

I knew it had lavender, so I sprayed it on expecting that typical medicinal, sharp, aromatic accord I am so familiar with, and love. But it doesn’t have lavender in the top notes…what it opens up with is a skin cooling green blast of minty galbanum, that actually smells cold to my nose. The 1st time I sampled it I sprayed some on after a morning gym routine so perhaps my nose is associating the scent with refreshment but nonetheless I was pleasantly surprised to find it had a cooling effect on my skin. And then, almost immediately afterwards, I was rewarded with a nice soft blanket of lavender. Not sweet or too sharp – rather a dry, well-lit and sophisticated lavender…miles away from the homeopathic accords found in so many simple lavender waters and yet more modern than Guerlain’s classic fougere workhorses (Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur). Let's call the NPH esoteric lavender.

If the scent just stopped there, I’d be more than happy – but I was tickled to find that after it dries down it morphs into a wonderfully amber and spice prominent masculine oriental. The spices, woods and the tiniest bit of tobacco are sheer, easy to wear in the hot Miami weather we’re experiencing this week and yet I’m at a loss for another scent to compare this to because it’s so…unique.

Is it a summer oriental? Or an amber prominent green scent? Or both and a little bit of something else?

I’d love to hear from other Basenoters who enjoy this scent. When I searched for a thread just on this scent, the last one I could find was in 2007. WTF? We need to talk about this one more. It’s brilliant. And affordable too ($79 for 100 ml)!
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post #3 of 33
5/24/10 at 9:17pm
I rather like Nicolai pour homme, but still found it`s brilliance spoiled a bit by dirty note that smells like wet chalk on a classboard cleaning rag.
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post #4 of 33
5/25/10 at 3:46am
I liked it the first time I sampled it last month but I fell asleep before it finished (that's usually her job).

The opening is, as you say, both cold and not quite lavender; I half-expected it to venture into Oxford & Cambridge territory but no, definitely something new.

I could have sworn I saw Hillaire mention elsewhere that this was discontinued?
[EDIT: Here, found it]. Any confirmation of this out there?

Will have to experience this in full soon, regardless.
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post #5 of 33
5/25/10 at 3:54am
Oh, I love this so much. It was my first PdN frag; love at first sniff.

Yes, it doesn't get discussed enough and is severely underrated, but that's understandable, I suppose, when the house's other major male scent is the estimable New York. NpH is overshadowed.

Quote:
Is it a summer oriental? Or an amber prominent green scent? Or both and a little bit of something else?

Well, Jaime calls it a fougère without the coumarin, and I'm inclined to agree; "green fougère" is what I think every time I smell it, though it is, of course, more complex than that. It's a unique composition that's hard to pin down, and seems to reside in a different classification at every stage of its progression. Each stage is masterfully arranged and would stand as a fine fragrance on its own, but strung together in one bottle makes for something special.
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post #6 of 33
5/25/10 at 4:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by strifeknot View Post

"green fougère" is what I think every time I smell it, though it is, of course, more complex than that.

Zounds!
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post #7 of 33
5/25/10 at 8:38am
Hmm... this scent is indeed no longer listed on Nicolai's homepage. http://www.pnicolai.com/ve/pages/index.php

Thanks mike. You've single handedly caused a rush on the remaining stock!

Seriously though, this does sound intriguing. I believe i'll hunt down a sample.
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post #8 of 33
5/25/10 at 9:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocmanCC View Post

Hmm... this scent is indeed no longer listed on Nicolai's homepage. http://www.pnicolai.com/ve/pages/index.php

Thanks mike. You've single handedly caused a rush on the remaining stock!

Seriously though, this does sound intriguing. I believe i'll hunt down a sample.

You can order it by phone
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post #9 of 33
5/25/10 at 1:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post

mikeperez23; Mike, Could you elaborate a bit more about why Maharanih made you feel uncomfortable? I have been pondering trying this fragrance so my interest in your thoughts is therein grounded.

Well, it's been a while...but from what I remember it got heavy, very quickly. The cinnamon (which I love) and the way that it intermingles with the bitter orange seems to heighten the acidity on my skin and sort of smells like spray starch. This unusual accord lasts forever...quite unnerving actually. I might try it again soon, but when I sampled it I tried it various times before I finally gave up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Emlynevermore View Post

I liked it the first time I sampled it last month but I fell asleep before it finished (that's usually her job).

The opening is, as you say, both cold and not quite lavender; I half-expected it to venture into Oxford & Cambridge territory but no, definitely something new.

I could have sworn I saw Hillaire mention elsewhere that this was discontinued?
[EDIT: Here, found it]. Any confirmation of this out there?

Will have to experience this in full soon, regardless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTO View Post

You can order it by phone

OMG, I hope it's not discontinued. If one can order it on the phone, that's good news.


Quote:
Originally Posted by strifeknot View Post

Oh, I love this so much. It was my first PdN frag; love at first sniff.
Yes, it doesn't get discussed enough and is severely underrated, but that's understandable, I suppose, when the house's other major male scent is the estimable New York. NpH is overshadowed.
Well, Jaime calls it a fougère without the coumarin, and I'm inclined to agree; "green fougère" is what I think every time I smell it, though it is, of course, more complex than that. It's a unique composition that's hard to pin down, and seems to reside in a different classification at every stage of its progression. Each stage is masterfully arranged and would stand as a fine fragrance on its own, but strung together in one bottle makes for something special.

A beautiful description strifeknot. Green fougere fits.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DocmanCC View Post

Hmm... this scent is indeed no longer listed on Nicolai's homepage. http://www.pnicolai.com/ve/pages/index.php

Thanks mike. You've single handedly caused a rush on the remaining stock!

Seriously though, this does sound intriguing. I believe i'll hunt down a sample.

LOL..please do sample it. I think it's just wonderfully complex for something so darn affordable. Luckyscent has it in stock (and sells samples).
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post #10 of 33
5/25/10 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post

I rather like Nicolai pour homme, but still found it`s brilliance spoiled a bit by dirty note that smells like wet chalk on a classboard cleaning rag.

I couldnt agree more.
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post #11 of 33
5/25/10 at 2:26pm
I really love Nicolai Pour Homme and Maharadjah.What you say about the unusual route that NPH takes from cool green to spiced lavender seems just right. And it had never occurred to me listen for some tobacco in the mix but I think you're right. There's something haylike in there. Beautyhabit also lists jasmine. What do you think? I do get lavender in the opening but certainly mixed with a very herbal mint and galbanum. It's a wonderful, surprising composition and yet really comfortable. For someone like me who loves lavender, these inventive compositions are great. They go up hill and down dale but finally make their way home to a comfortable lavender accord by the point in the day when I start longing for quiet.

I'd urge those of you who are curious about Maharadjah but had heard it described as cinnamon scented candle to try the new formulation whenever it makes it as far as Luckyscent and Beautyhabit. The addition of a fresh rosemary note has the effect of making it more recognizable as a gentleman's fougere somehow, and also brings it more squarely in the family of scents like NPH. She loves to find a place for a persistent aromatic green note, and she loves oblique references to the green chypre--as in the last bit of Patchouli Homme.

Glad to see Nicolai Pour Homme getting some attention. Thanks for the wonderful description, as usual, Mike. What you say about the tobacco angle has opened it up for me in a new way.
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post #12 of 33
5/28/10 at 8:25pm
It is in fact discontinued, very recently along with the sumptuous Baladin and the haunting Sacrebleu (only the intense version of SB will remain.). This I learned at the Nicolai boutique In London just two weeks ago. In fact, they had them piled in a clearance basket for half off. Which prompted my boyfriend to inquire if they were being discontinued. They have been!

So, stock up on these greats. While you can
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post #13 of 33
5/28/10 at 8:28pm
I love Nicolai pour Homme. I think it is one of PdN's best fragrances.
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post #14 of 33
5/29/10 at 9:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

It is in fact discontinued, very recently along with the sumptuous Baladin and the haunting Sacrebleu (only the intense version of SB will remain.). This I learned at the Nicolai boutique In London just two weeks ago. In fact, they had them piled in a clearance basket for half off. Which prompted my boyfriend to inquire if they were being discontinued. They have been!

So, stock up on these greats. While you can

Yikes! Thanks for the heads up.
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post #15 of 33
5/30/10 at 9:44am
Nicolai Pour Homme by Parfums de Nicolai along with all the other men's offerings are fantastic and I am lucky to own all of them.
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post #16 of 33
5/30/10 at 7:48pm
Thanks for the recommendation Mike! The scent development sounds really interesting. Normally, I always sample the scent first, but this is going to be a blind buy for me.
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post #17 of 33
6/2/10 at 12:56am
After a phone call with the manager of Nicolaï's shop at Paris, Palais Royal ( Alexia ) she has informed me that Nicolaï pour Homme and Baladin have not been discontinued. They are only available by phone or through the mail : paris@pnicolai.com
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post #18 of 33
6/2/10 at 3:09am
I have mixed feelings about Nicolai's perfumes... I find New York cloying, almost suffocating. There's a rush of patchuli that almost makes me chocke, and although it is higly praised (Luca Turin rates it to the high heavens) I'm not sure it is that stunning scent.
I love their colognes: Cedrat is lovely, but probably Sologne is my favourite.
Maharadjah is a real powerhouse. Full-on cinnamon and clove, it is bit too spicy, sort of Christmas Oranges, to be frank. Pour Homme is more discreet, although the opening lavender note has got some balsamic qualities that I'm not sure I like.
You can tell they are done beautifully, top notch quality, nicely packaged, the Nicolai boutiques are absolutely lovely... and yet, can't get into Nicolai's perfumes... What's wrong with me?!
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post #19 of 33
6/2/10 at 3:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lupo View Post

I have mixed feelings about Nicolai's perfumes... I find New York cloying, almost suffocating. There's a rush of patchuli that almost makes me chocke, and although it is higly praised (Luca Turin rates it to the high heavens) I'm not sure it is that stunning scent.
I love their colognes: Cedrat is lovely, but probably Sologne is my favourite.
Maharadjah is a real powerhouse. Full-on cinnamon and clove, it is bit too spicy, sort of Christmas Oranges, to be frank. Pour Homme is more discreet, although the opening lavender note has got some balsamic qualities that I'm not sure I like.
You can tell they are done beautifully, top notch quality, nicely packaged, the Nicolai boutiques are absolutely lovely... and yet, can't get into Nicolai's perfumes... What's wrong with me?!

Nothing wrong with you. We can not love all the same things. Try to learn and understand NEW YORK little by little and you will see.It is not a perfume for summer. But NICOLAI POUR HOMME is a perfume you can wear in summertime. It is lovely.Try them, sniff them, try to discover them....
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post #20 of 33
6/2/10 at 7:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTO View Post

After a phone call with the manager of Nicolaï's shop at Paris, Palais Royal ( Alexia ) she has informed me that Nicolaï pour Homme and Baladin have not been discontinued. Thay are only available by phone or through the mail : paris@pnicolai.com

I might also add that you can order pour Homme from Luckyscent - as I did yesterday. It's a blind buy based on Mike's review, and on my enjoyment of other Nicolaï scents, like New York.
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post #21 of 33
6/2/10 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TricsMan View Post

I might also add that you can order pour Homme from Luckyscent - as I did yesterday. It's a blind buy based on Mike's review, and on my enjoyment of other Nicolaï scents, like New York.

Thanks very very much for your information. I use to order directly from Nicolaï 's shop.
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post #22 of 33
6/2/10 at 8:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTO View Post

After a phone call with the manager of Nicolaï's shop at Paris, Palais Royal ( Alexia ) she has informed me that Nicolaï pour Homme and Baladin have not been discontinued. They are only available by phone or through the mail : paris@pnicolai.com

Big sigh of relief. Thanks, Roberto.
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post #23 of 33
6/2/10 at 9:01am
But it doesn't make sense why the company would still sell the product but not list it in its catalog. I wonder if they are going to be removing it soon or something?
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post #24 of 33
6/2/10 at 10:35am
I remember perusing the PdN site two years ago, and it wasn't listed even then, along with a few other fragrances. I don't know why that is, but it apparently isn't a sign that it's going out of productions.
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post #25 of 33
6/15/10 at 9:34am
The mention earlier that Nicolai Pour Homme may be discontinued was enough to help me push the button at last. I have been a fan of New York for some time and over the last couple of years slowly been getting better acqauinted with the PdN line. I was fortunate to pick up Odalisque before it's (apparent) reformulation, and have added Maharajah and Patchouli Homme, then Sacrebleu . . . all quite unique IMO and at the same time recognisably of the same lineage. There seem to be a couple of themes running through the line, at least the few I have tried, the aforementioned 'cool green' presence and also the 'spiced sweet' touch that seems to hover in some of them.

Nicolai Pour Homme does, indeed, seem to bring both facets of the house style (if that's not making too much of a generalisation) into a beautiful accord - I am really enjoying this one. I expected it to be good, but this is beyond my expectations. I shared it with a couple Basenotes buddies and the Fragrance Manager at the Guerlain counter yesterday (on a day out for visiting Basenoter, Vandair) and all were quite surprised and intrigued. (Jicky was mentioned).

Thanks to mikeperez23 for bringing this one up again and also Strollyourlobster for keeping the Nicolai line visible with such thoughtful posts over the last year or so
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post #26 of 33
6/15/10 at 11:47am
I must try it, the notes you've described sound amazing. I would also like to add that I'm a bit disappointed you find New York dull and lifeless, I don't judge you though, New York took me about 6-7 forced wearings to understand, enjoy and even love it, I'm saying forced because people complimented me every single time I wore it and I couldn't understand why, now I do.
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post #27 of 33
6/15/10 at 12:49pm
The first time I tested this, I thought it was amazing. I tested it again and was less enthused. I will need to give it several wearings I believe to get to a verdict.
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post #28 of 33
6/15/10 at 1:49pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

...Thanks to mikeperez23 for bringing this one up again...

You're welcome mr. reasonable.

I, too, snatched up a used bottle on Ebay this weekend ($39 for 100 ml!) and it is on it's way to me now. Yay!!!
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post #29 of 33
6/15/10 at 2:27pm
Smells great but it's small and becomes a little boring soon enough (typical niche). The main accord is compelling, though. I like it quite a bit and wear it occasionally.

It isn't New York (PdN) but it's better than most.
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post #30 of 33
6/15/10 at 3:31pm
When I first tried it a while back, I have to admit that I was blown away. My only peeve was that I got a wet cardboard note in it, that kind of spoiled the magic. It's really a great fragrance otherwise.
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post #31 of 33
3/23/11 at 6:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by supperman View Post

But it doesn't make sense why the company would still sell the product but not list it in its catalog. I wonder if they are going to be removing it soon or something?

That was excactly my thought also..
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post #32 of 33
4/17/11 at 11:53am
I have now tried it (from a sample) and it smells great! Very impressive stuff. A question to you that spray from a atomizer: What do you think about the sillage and longevity on this one?
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post #33 of 33
4/17/11 at 2:12pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oslo-Fjord View Post

I have now tried it (from a sample) and it smells great! Very impressive stuff. A question to you that spray from a atomizer: What do you think about the sillage and longevity on this one?

I find most PdN fragrances have above average longevity. Many of her fragrances share a similar accord in them, I will call this Nicolai-ade, and I can usually detect it all day when I wear her fragrances. The Patchouli Homme is particularly potent. A half of 1 spray is VERY strong.
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