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For Interest- Biolandes' Oakmoss

post #1 of 10
6/20/10 at 9:34pm
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A lot of us are unhappy about the reduced oakmoss in fragrances after the 43rd /44th amendment re. IFRA. I thought you may like to look at this article re. Biolandes 'new' oakmoss and treemoss....
Follow the link to the newsletter No. 71 for Jan 2010 .

http://www.biolandes.com/en-biolande...tter.php?lg=en

I hope the link works...........
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post #2 of 10
6/22/10 at 11:01am
Very interesting. I had read that perfumers had switched to synthetic oak moss and used the IFRA moss quotient on tree moss because there is no decent tree moss synthetic (personally I have no idea). Is Biolandes' new extract significant because the atranol limit was previously unattainable in oak moss?
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post #3 of 10
6/22/10 at 3:14pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zizanioides View Post

Very interesting. I had read that perfumers had switched to synthetic oak moss and used the IFRA moss quotient on tree moss because there is no decent tree moss synthetic (personally I have no idea). Is Biolandes' new extract significant because the atranol limit was previously unattainable in oak moss?

I am guessing that is the case Zizanioides.It's exciting in any case. I am hoping perfume companies will use this new oakmoss to bring back some of the depth missing these days from our classic chypres etc. Not naming any names.... *LOL*
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post #4 of 10
6/22/10 at 4:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

Not naming any names.... *LOL*

Haha, probably because there are too many names to list! :X

Well, here's hoping that this new oak moss is better than the synthetics they've been cooking up.
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post #5 of 10
6/23/10 at 11:17am
That is terrific news! I'm glad to hear that. I've smelled vintage chypres and fougeres, they definitely have a depth that makes current scents and versions seem quite pallid. I hope these products are good and are used.
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post #6 of 10
6/23/10 at 11:41am
This is a great article. It will be interesting to see when/where they are used and whether they revitalize chypre fragrances.
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post #7 of 10
6/23/10 at 2:15pm
Thread Starter 
Yes I thought it was a great article- there is hope, people ! I am so glad there are companies out there doing their best to give us oakmoss compliant to IFRA and their tight a** measures.
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post #8 of 10
6/23/10 at 2:58pm
These are the type of oakmoss extracts which are currently in use - they are restricted to 0.1% of a formula which is the level in the reformulated fragrances that we all complain about already contain. The classic chypres contain far higher levels, Pour Monsiuer may have had 5-10% oakmoss in the formula at one point.
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post #9 of 10
6/23/10 at 3:05pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

These are the type of oakmoss extracts which are currently in use - they are restricted to 0.1% of a formula which is the level in the reformulated fragrances that we all complain about already contain. The classic chypres contain far higher levels, Pour Monsiuer may have had 5-10% oakmoss in the formula at one point.

So these are still not an improvement at all ?...................
So it's the % of oakmoss that is a real problem .
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post #10 of 10
6/23/10 at 3:57pm
It might actually be an improvement if this new product is the first oak moss with 43rd amendment atranol levels. Various defanged oak mosses have been flying around since the 70's but Biolandes makes it sound like this is a new level. We should ask Anya or another poster in the industry.
And yeah, it doesn't address the central issue of the .1% limit for mosses =(
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