Oh, c'mon, this is one of most lovely Guerlain creations... The drydown has a slightly powdery vanilla, which I love... Very delicate... A citrus raspberry sorbet enhanced with a extremely...
This fragrance is the kitchen-sink of men's retro fragrances.
Top Notes:
Aldehydes, Aniseed, Basil, Bergamot, Galbanum, Caraway, Lavender, Sage, Juniper...
A very well blended vanilla, high quality stuff, with hints of orchid and dark chocolat, sometimes it reminds me of Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle, in the drydown. Must try! I really like it!
I recently discovered this beauty and I immediately fell in love with it. Omg what a gorgeous smell... It's very like the original, but this is sweeter, creamier, and more intense... The benzoin...
Basically, your typical grapefruit citrus eau de cologne opening with a mineral earthy peppery background, like most of Hermes' designer fragrances. This one is half of that typical Hermes...
In my experience, I'd say Must de Cartier (the "women's"). Though Shalimar used a lot of vanilla, it doesn't come across as food-like to me. Obviously, this is about personal preference. The other possible way of thinking about it is if the perfumer wanted a food-like effect, but that is something he or she would have to disclose publicly.
Maybe Jicky? After all, it has a kind of gourmand aroma hidden in the animalic part...
When one of my friends tried my sample, she told me that the aroma reminded here of breads (or something like that, i cannot reminded exactly which kind of bakery she told me that Jicky reminded her of).
Considering gourmand in modern tastes, I believe, maybe i`m wrong, that Animale Animale was the first gourmand, a kind of precursor for Amen
In my experience, I'd say Must de Cartier (the "women's"). Though Shalimar used a lot of vanilla, it doesn't come across as food-like to me. Obviously, this is about personal preference. The other possible way of thinking about it is if the perfumer wanted a food-like effect, but that is something he or she would have to disclose publicly.
Wish that Must Cartier pour femme had a gourmand aroma on me. It has something vanillic on it, but at my skin is more like dark vanillic powder at base, with a intense bitter galbanum openning that seems took from a 80`s masculine frag...
As far as i can remember it was Pois de Scenteur by Corday...it's not on the directory by the way.
Back in the day where there was no such thing as a gourmand category, this scent was more about vanilla, honey and sweet amber that it was about sweet pea the flower as it name implies.
Over the years there have been many gourmand scents that have been forgotten, mostly by small houses and labels that have "disappeared".
The first "gourmand" labeled as such i think was Angel for women (the men's version was called also the "first gourmand for men")
if i can remember more or an earlier one i'll get back on the thread.
Must was reformulated, from what I understand, so that may be why there are different impressions of it. I don't get any heavy galbanum in it, that's for sure.