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Vetiver Oud combo

post #1 of 11
8/24/10 at 9:35am
Thread Starter 
I haven't posted for a long time, partially because I started my own research/hoby into making my own scents.

I tried different approaches with Vetiver, mostly on paper, until I found this one. I found that with my oils, this formula turned to be very attractive and was noticeable for more than 8 hours in a hot day with a fan, even with single digit percentage concentration:

total drops: 33
14 ml 95% alcohol + 4 ml dist. water

Vetiver: 10
Ambergis: 6
Oud: 5

Geranium rose: 4
Lavender: 4
Juniper: 1
Tuberose: 2

Lemongrass: 1

I find that the 1:2 ratio between Oud to Vetiver is very nice as the Oud add depth and complexity but in this ratio, it lets the Vetiver run the show. The Ambergis does a great job of fixing everything, the Geranium and Lavender polishes and sweetens while the Juniper the Tuberose kind of add life to the scent.

The Lemongrass gives an introduction and leaves first for the main event of a polished, not too sweet Vetiver connecting, well to the flowers and the Oud in the back.

I'm thinking of reducing one to two drops from the geranium and the lavender, adding Petigane or Palmarosa. Any ideas or suggestions?
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post #2 of 11
8/24/10 at 8:08pm
Sounds amazing. What sort of vetiver and oud are you using?
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post #3 of 11
8/24/10 at 11:20pm
I think your blend could use a few pts. of Rose (oud and rose blend very well together), and a little more top; perhaps 3 or 4 pts. of Bergamot. Otherwise, its a very nice blend you have going there.
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post #4 of 11
8/24/10 at 11:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondrian View Post

Sounds amazing. What sort of vetiver and oud are you using?

Thanks. The Oud is from QT (one of the cheaper offerings but with great value as it smells great) and the Vetiver is from a store in China, both via ebay.

Do you know perhaps if the Khus oil is a better grade of Vetiver?
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post #5 of 11
8/25/10 at 12:14am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nymphaea View Post

I think your blend could use a few pts. of Rose (oud and rose blend very well together), and a little more top; perhaps 3 or 4 pts. of Bergamot. Otherwise, its a very nice blend you have going there.

The Vetiver I have isn't 'rough' enough even at about 1/3 of the oils. My Patchuli is even weaker BTW. However, the rose blend I have leaves a signature which I associate with feminine. I use it in other formulas, especially where I use more wood and/or citrus but here I was afraid the Vetiver would lose focus. The Geranium is sweet but more neutral in this respect and it doesn't seem to soften the whole picture like rose does for me.

The Bergamot is an idea I'll definitely check in my next Vetiver variation which will be based on the above in a bigger volume - thanks.
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post #6 of 11
8/25/10 at 2:43am
Nice
I might add a few drops of patchouli to add more earthy spiciness (then again, I add patch to almost all of my concoctions. )
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post #7 of 11
8/25/10 at 2:54am
I'd reduce the lavender and add somewhere around a half drop (sorry, i always work in percentages and at the uL level, for more precision) of lavender absolute.

A half drop or so of ginger grass would add a very grassy, lemony, and aromatic (far more than lemongrass) lift to the top. It also has a thicker texture (like petitgrain) that would add more depth to the top.

A tiny amount (maybe 1/4 of a drop.. guess you'd have to multiply everything else to get this small of an amount though) of cedar leaf would really add a nice zingy green note to the top, which would work well if you added bergamot or petitgrain as it would emphasize the green facets of those more citrusy notes.

It's hard to say what to do with the top though without knowing exactly what you are going for.
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post #8 of 11
8/25/10 at 3:00am
To get a "rougher" vetiver I find that you need to start at a concentration of 4 or 5%. This is much, much higher than you are using here.
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post #9 of 11
8/25/10 at 3:02am
I find the rhus khus vetiver I have from Tigerflag to be very green and almost minty, eventually drying down to a peppery grass.

The roughest vetivers I've come across are the indonesian. Very soil-like and smoky.
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post #10 of 11
8/25/10 at 3:50am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the comments. I'll add 2 drops of Ginger, 5 more Vetiver and possibly 2 drops of Helichrysum to spice it up. My original intent was for something polite like Vetiver Extraordinaire with an edge so I'll just need to work on that edge more

EDIT:

I smelled it again and it's different today with more edge. Maybe the Vetiver needs more time to 'come out'...
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post #11 of 11
8/26/10 at 8:44am
Thread Starter 
After adding:
Vetiver 4
Aud 2
Ginger 2
Bergamot 3

I got a Vetiver I love. It's a little syrupy but not too sweet, spicy, kind of reminds me the Benedictine liquer with the herb notes. I'm really happy with this. Thanks all for the suggestions.
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