Amouage Opus II: Initial Impressions

Amouage Opus II:
Perfumer: Michele Saramito of Robertet
Notes: Lavender, Absinthe, pepper, pink bay, Jasmine, rose, cinnamon, cardamom, Cedarwood, patchouli, amber, musk, incense

I must say that I am overwhelmed after having tested Opus II. It is a magnificent, beautiful fougere. In short, it smells something like a cross between Rive Gauche PH and Fou d’Absinthe, the two not blended together but instead a new formula inspired by the two, created with an unlimited budget and blended by God himself.

The notes of Opus II may sound generic but are woven together with such careful precision and subtlety that they literally dance on the skin in an olfactory equivalent of the glimmering iridescent display of light dancing across a most exquisite piece of abalone. This is a fragrance that is definitely greater than the sum of its parts.

You know that feeling of magic that sometimes washes over you during the winter season? There is an utter, almost eerie, stillness in the air, and all the earth is asleep, and the quiet and solitude do not leave you feeling alone so much as they magnify your own sense of self, your own awareness of life and existence? The way we rush from the car into the houses of friends and families to escape the bitter cold, and are met with the wonderful scent of chai tea, cinnamon sticks and apple cider, christmas trees, bay leaves and mistletoe. The warmth of friendship. All of that; all of the wonderful and beautiful elements of winter have seemingly been distilled. That is Opus II.

Yes, truly a wonderful fougere that shimmers and floats above the skin, and will remind you, if you are so inclined to listen, that magic really does still exist.

The hues and tones of the scent remind me of the colors (and to an extent, the mood and atmosphere) present in these two pictures:

Now, for a less poetic breakdown:

The scent opens with a big dose of bay laurel and pepper, although even these have an airiness about them as they are lifted by a translucent lavender note that is not immediately detectable. Soon the lavender weaves its way into the opening accord but it's unlike any lavender note I've ever experienced, it is so ethereal and again, translucent; perhaps the best word for it is crystalline. It is not herbal or overly aromatic like the lavender note in Oxford and Cambridge, it is not heavy and thick and stuffy like it is in the opening of so many 80s men's scents. It is just.. crystalline. Underneath this is a note that is not fully discernable but it adds a bit of darkness and greenness and ups the aromatic factor of the opening: I am quite sure this is the absinthe note at play, which I think may be a combination of actual wormwood oil (which is aromatic, slightly minty, and very green) and a star anise note. The opening is simultaneously spicy and smooth, filled with a number of heavy essences that are rendered in such an airy and translucent way that it really does, for me at least, evoke the sensation of cool winter wind against the skin.

Cardamom soon becomes apparent and it is rendered smoothly and very natural, akin to the cardamom note in Invasion Barbare. Yes, Amouage has, at least in Opus II, really upped the quality and natural factor of their ingredients. While I've always loved Amouage, I have to admit that some of their scents are more synthetic than some/most of the offerings of other ultra high end houses like Xerjoff or MCDI. Amouage though, always had the ultra-lush and luxurious factor, and always put their synthetics to good use and hid them quite well amongst the naturals. Still, this scent feels like a step up in quality from the other Amouages, although it is not as lush or luxe as some of them, but that is due solely to the genre of scent. It definitely feels as high quality and natural as any of the Xerjoffs, not something I could say about many/any of the previous Amouages. If Rive Gauche were a Lexus, Opus II is an Aston Martin.

The usage of cinnamon here is absolutely the best I've ever smelled - it is so real and even a bit woody (this is the whole cinnamon stick), but it feels as if the scent was merely dusted with this freshly ground cinnamon stick. Again, a very ethereal usage of a note that really helps keep the shimmering, magical effect of the fragrance alive. At the same time that the cinnamon becomes more prominent, the anisey note of the absinthe accord becomes stronger and joins with a very muted jasmine and rose and perhaps some labdanum and a hint of vanilla from the base to create a very natural smelling rendition of the 'shaving cream accord' in Rive Gauche. I always loved the idea of Rive Gauche but found it a bit synthetic, especially that cream accord. I didn't know you could make such a natural smelling cream accord. I should mention that here it is not quite so upfront and center as it is in RG - it is present and definitely is a large contributor to the texture during the middle phase, but it stands far enough back to still let the cardamom, lingering bay, dusty hints of cinnamon, and lingering lavender (now joined by a lavender absolute note) to lead the play.

This continues down into the base where the woods pick up with intensity slightly. It's hard to pick out exactly what is going on as the whole of it is so carefully blended that no notes really stand out at this point. The opening and heart have such extreme clarity and separation of the notes (and yet, when taken together as a whole, they all work perfectly, too) and in the base they begin to meld together the way that it's hard to pick out the individual spices that go into a great chai tea. It is a soft base, the creamy aspect is still present, and there is a hint of spices still but they are completely smooth by now, no piquancy left. The lavender absolute note (a sweeter, softer, more coumarinic lavender note than the essential oil) is detectable, and the anise is too, slightly, and there is a hint of smoke from the incense. It is so peaceful - this is the warmth I alluded to in the poetic review, escaping the bitter cold of the outside (which was magical in its own way) and cherishing the newfound warmth and comfort of the sanctuary of home.

I should add that the anise note is never so strong or out in the open that I think it would render the scent unenjoyable by those who don't like anise. It's truly a background player and, while noticeable if you are really looking for it, does not jump out and scream or misbehave in any way.

Fans of Rive Gauche or Fou d'Absinthe absolutely need to check this out.

edit: It's been a long time since I've been so moved by a fragrance. It's also been a long time since I knew, so quickly, that I absolutely would have to own a scent after testing it just once. I have no idea how I'm going to afford this! Santa, all I want for Christmas this year is a bottle of Opus II. I'll be really really good, I promise!! Please?!

I can't wait to actually try this during winter. I have a feeling it would mesh so well with the environment on one of those purple hued evenings that it would be some kind of almost religious experience. Maybe I'm crazy but I've had that happen a few times where a specific scent so well matched the mood, atmosphere and surroundings of where I was that it was a truly sublime experience. The last time it happened was during a walk through the woods in winter while giant snowflakes lazily drifted to the ground. I was wearing Yatagan.

Speaking of Winter Star, what was it that you grew tired of? Did it seem to evoke the sensation you were seeking before you grew tired of it?

I don't think you'll feel that way with Opus II. It's definitely not "old man" although it's not something I could see a teenager wanting to wear (unless of course, they had really good taste! ). It's a modern take on a classic style, and the end result is something that really feels ageless. From what I've read about Winter Star, this is definitely lighter, more ethereal, and less stuffy. That's not to say that Opus II doesn't have body - it does, but it carefully avoids overdoing any element.

Well I must say this one just clicked for me. It called to mind so many memories and scenes and images that are pleasant and nostalgic and on top of that, to me, it smells fabulous. I didn't *want* to fall for another expensive scent, but the heart wants what it wants.

The only bad thing about sampling this as one of the first out of my batch of 27 samples (I almost never buy samples, I really can't afford much in this fragrance hobby this year ) is that I fear nothing else will live up to it!

I'm wearing some more of this and there's a few more things I want to add that I forgot earlier:

This is not ostentatiously Christmassy in a kitschy sense. It smells less obviously Christmas than Jubilation XXV smells say, like a craft store (an association I've heard that I both understand and can see, and yet find it so much more than that). The scents spicy/sweet profile and notes really make it extremely versatile - almost as versatile as Rive Gauche Pour Homme - but I just find that when viewed a certain way, or when in a certain mood, it does seem like it would mesh extremely well in that wintery environment. Now, it should be said that most of the samples I purchased were bought with the intent of finding great scents to wear in the dead of winter, and so I am certainly predisposed to analyzing them through that lens, and that surely contributed to the winter/christmas slant of the review.

Secondly, this *could* be unisex, although the woman would need to be ok with a fair bit of spice in the opening. The opening really is a wonderful piquant blast of pepper and bay leaf, but soon enough the absinthe note joins the fray along with the hint of florals and the softer spices (cardamom and cinnamon), and I could see this working well on a woman's skin. I'd say it leans slightly masculine though, a tad bit moreso than most of the previous men's offerings by Amouage (Epic Man excepted).

The longevity is medium and the sillage is.. well, it was hard for me to tell. I could clearly smell it for 6-8 hours and then it seemed to fade quite a bit as it went into the slightly smoky aspect of the dry down. I actually think the sillage may be rather strong and may have given me a bit of olfactory fatigue as I found brief periods in those first 6-8 hours where I couldn't smell it at all, but then 5 minutes later I'd pick it up clear as day.

For those familiar with Xerjoff, this is like Amouage's take on Rive Gauche with the quality of ingredients and a blending style closer to Xerjoff's Dhofar. Obviously those familiar with Dhofar will realize that this is a huge compliment.

In other words, this is quantitatively different in feel/style than the typical Amouage, and is a scent even the Amouage haters should check out.

Well, the Luckyscent samples *are* small but even so, my $5 sample should give me about 6 or 7 wearings. This scent isn't extremely strong - it lasts long but the projection is toned down compared to most Amouage (of course, most Amouage have nuclear projection, so don't think that by saying this I'm saying Opus II is some shrinking violet!) - and I find a few sprays on the chest and just a drop on each wrist (the atomizer it came in is extremely easy to control and output just the tiniest little bit if you are careful). And with this particular atomizer, each spray is quite small, so 2 sprays is probably only equal to one spray from a normal bottle atomizer.

I'd look into Parfums Raffy, too. They usually have official samples of Amouage, compared to the hand made samples of TPC or Luckyscent. I think I remember their samples were $5 a piece though for the Opus series, and only 1ml, too.

Well, I shouldn't have said I "hate" Opus III. I got too much on the card by accident though and took a big whiff and that was a mistake. It's POTENT. It's not my style of scent at all, and not something I'd ever wear, but it does smell of quality ingredients. As I said before, I think the Opus series almost smells higher quality than their regular series, although their regular series smell a bit more modern, in general, and perhaps more 'sleek.'

I've yet to test Opus I on skin but will soon. The smell on the card was very very nice.

Would everyone who has tried them all agree that Opus II is the least traditionally Amouage scent of the series? I'd almost say it's the least Amouage-y scent that's currently in their lineup (now that Arcus and Cirrus have been dropped).

I'm just going to cut out some of my extraneous spending (energy drinks, going out to lunch more often than needed, etc) for awhile and put it all into a "way too expensive but I love it and want it anyway" frag fund.

I'm seriously contemplating donating some plasma again for some extra money. 6 weeks of donating would net me enough to snag the bottle. Hmm.. tempting!

Anyone else tried this yet? Please weigh in. I'd love to hear any opinions, even less favorable ones.

I actually generally agree with the daytime vibe, although I think it would work as a more personal night scent - one where you might be out shopping alone or just spending the night by yourself, especially if you'd be spending part or most of the night outside (although it's rare that I feel like spending an evening in Wisconsin outside, alone! )

In more intimate night settings I'd rather wear something warmer or woodier, so I definitely can see why you'd categorize it as more of a daytime scent.

Oh, and welcome to Basenotes Daryl! Opus II is the only one of the series I want a full bottle of too, and oh how I want it! It's good to have another new member with such excellent taste!

It's strange in that it's so very potent up front, but within a few hours it has settled down and is rather quiet. I find it lasts fairly long, 8-10 hours or so, but after the first two it is much more of a skin scent. I, personally, like that style of projection, especially with a scent with this olfactory profile. I also like that it doesn't last 24+ hours like most of the Amouage scents.

Weird. I don't really get any connection whatsoever between Opus II and Jubilation XXV.

I agree about Opus I though. It's too fruity/floral for me, and I don't think it's anything special, despite smelling of quality.

To me, Opus III is a comfort scent. As the nights here are now getting very cold, I find myself drawn to wear it when I plan to stay in and just lay down with a good book. It has some of the same feel and vibe as MPG's Or des Indes, although it is more floral and less metallic, and a bit less warm.

I think all three compositions are in many ways simpler and more direct than their traditional scents. I think some disappointment is inevitable if people go in expecting these to smell as lush and outright opulent as the scents in their regular line. These smell just as high quality (I think these actually smell more natural), but they are a bit more old-fashioned and, as mentioned, more direct and simpler. I like them for what they are. In my opinion they almost share more with the best of Xerjoff (i.e Dhofar, Kobe, Esquel) than with the regular Amouage line.

Sandy, what parallels are you finding between Opus II and Jubilation? I mean, I guess there are some similar spices, but Jubilation reads as a woods with dried fruit, a bit of syrup and incense (along with a slightly vegetal celery seed note).. it seems so lush and opulent and warm, while Opus II to me is much cooler, airier, and far less dense.

Glad you are liking them Mimi. I've not tried enough Guerlains to make the connection between any and Opus III.. I'm going to have to seek out L'Heure Bleue!

I can't wait to smell Opus I on my girlfriend.. maybe I can convince her to try it this weekend when I see her next. It doesn't do much of anything on my skin but I feel that there is some potential for it to really bloom on the right skin. Well, I hope so, at least.

Mimi, do let us know if you find that after an hour or two Opus II goes from being quite loud to rather quiet. It has behaved that way for me, Mr. Reasonable, and some others, and I'm curious to see if anyone's skin out there can buck the trend. Of course, while many find that to be a drawback of the scent, I kind of like that behavior, as I don't like a ton of sillage. That's my number one problem with so many Amouage - they are too strong! (a blasphemous thing to say on BN, I know )

Thanks for the test Mimi!

After you test them some more, I'd love to hear your thoughts on how they compare to the normal Amouage line up, and if you think the Library series has a unique identity of its own and if so, what that identity actually is.

If you are at all a fan of Dior's Poison, or like the idea of an Amouage-y take on the theme, be sure to check out Memoir Woman when samples become available, too. There are a lot of differences, but it has a similar purple, grapey jasmine, extremely floral vibe.

I've done a 180 on this. I still like the opening and I find that the composition has a lot of potential, but I find that the drydown becomes too muted and one dimensional far too quickly on me now, and even worse, it is chock full of some synthetic that really irritates my throat. I think it's the same chemical that provides the mineral notes to TdH, as it has the same effect on me. I used to think this was iso e super, but it's not, as other iso e heavy scents don't bother me in this way.

So: opening and first hour or so = 5 stars
drydown = 2 stars
avg = 3.5, truncating to 3 stars.

I came across the most unlikely of potential replacements for this scent the other day. I was at a discounter and they had a tester of the original HUMMER fragrance out. Upon spraying it I thought - "Wow, this smells like something I know!" It took only a minute to place that it smelled a lot lot like Opus II (at least from memory). I didn't keep the card long enough to be able to compare the dry downs, but if I get the chance again I'm going to do a better comparison of these two. Heck, I might just order some Hummer with my next purchase - it's surely cheap enough.

Anyone out there sniffed both? What do you think?