New Fragrances: Amouage Memoir Man and Memoir Woman - Page 3

To my own surprise, I find myself enjoying Memoir Man a lot more. On first wearing, I get wormwood, fresh basil, something like mint and the woody-incense note from Memoir Woman as a background. Though it's still not my style of fragrance, like Opus II, I respect it and find it quite interesting and high quality.

I really like Memoir Woman on my g/f, but I feel that it's one of the most ostentatious and overtly feminine scents that Amouage has put out in some time (for instance, I feel comfortable wearing Jubilation 25 and more or less comfortable with Lyric Woman and Epic Woman). I don't understand the unisex sentiment. I mean, a guy could pull it off, especially in a very outgoing situation (maybe to a goth, metal, or rock concert) but not to work or on a first date or something. Well, at least I don't think most guys would feel comfortable with it in such situations.

Memoir Man though.. ah, I just can't get enough of this fragrance. Wore it again tonight and it performed admirably, although it did seem to fade fairly fast this time. Odd, as it usually lasts 8 or 10 hours. My first wearing I noticed it for even longer, and felt that it had Epic Man like longevity, although now I'm not so sure as this fragrance seems far more variable. Maybe I am just growing fatigued by it, although others said it was fairly weak on me tonight too, and that was with the usual two sprays to the chest and a dab to each arm. This is the fastest I've ever used up an official Amouage sample! No worries though, as I've finally got a bottle on the way. *beam*

Anyhow, enough rambling. Suga, you are far more familiar with Poison than I am, not having smelled it in an analytical sense in a number of years now. I'm curious how you'd compare Memoir Woman with Poison, and what qualities Poison has that makes you prefer it. My g/f really loved Memoir Woman and I know I'm pretty sure I should track down some Poison for her to try. I'm just curious to hear your take as you are the resident Poison expert!

Comparing just the floral accord, Memoir Woman seems both simpler, more natural, and more subdued. Unlike some I don't get '80s Godzilla floral; in fact it's quite middling in power on me. It smells more realistic; the grapes are almost tangible, and the jasmine is more straight forward. Poison's floral accord is more of a shared duty with tuberose, the salicylates played up give the grapey jasmine that "cough syrup vibe"; a slightly more synthetic-smelling accord with warm, sweet jasmine and a slightly spicy-chilly tuberose.

The biggest difference to my nose, though, is what accompanies that accord. In Poison it's a warm, ambery muskiness, a slight animalic quality to it to. In Memoir its an utterly different accord, one I find woody, slightly sour, and smoky. I don't get a whiff of woodiness or smokiness in Poison, or any musk and amber in Memoir Woman.

I've been thinking of what the linked accord is in the two Memoirs is today, and it suddenly struck me. It reminds me of the smell of a used ashtray that's been rained in. I don't mean this as some kind of insult, it's really true for me; it's a mixture of ashes, damp paper, and a certain burnt-woody quality I smell in used tobacco. It's actually quite an interesting smell, though I'm not sure it agrees with me.

I totally understand the 'used ashtray' accord, although I like to think of it more poetically as the scent of the embers after a fire has died down. It's definitely ashy though - and there is tobacco present amidst the wood and incense, but actually to me it smells most like the charcoal ashes and remnants of burning real opoponax resin. It's smoothed out just enough in Memoir Man that it's not unpleasant on my skin, but yet remains dry and ashen enough to be interesting and even daring, in a "on the verge of being unlikeable" sense. I can imagine if one's skin changes the balance of that slightly, it could easily become downright unpleasant.

I think Memoir Man is daring in that it hasn't been prettied up any more than it is. It's the most distant, edgy, and brooding Amouage to date. Even Epic Man, which had enough woods, pepper and spice to sear some peoples nostrils, seems more aimed to please.

Thanks for the rundown on Poison vs Memoir Woman, too. I do remember Poison having a thicker texture to its grape/jasmine accord, but I had forgotten the ambery qualities of the dry down. I more-or-less forgot the dry down entirely. I'm going to have to convince her to try it next time we're at the store. I think it would actually be more wearable for her given her tastes, at least if applied discreetly.

@ScupltureOfSoul: where did u get ur official amouage spray sample ?

I've just received an official sample of the man and woman Memoirs this morning. Being someone who loves the older releases, but not liking anything after Jubilation XXV (last one I purchased) I was keeping my fingers crossed that I would like this, but no. I found it smelt terrible on me and I had to wash it off immediately. The womans smelt even worse, my girlfriend said it smells like antiseptic (DETTOL) and that fusty smell that you get in some old people's care homes lol and it did on her.
All was not lost though, as I've also smelt the Harrods limited edition for men and also a limited edition unisex called Salalah Green. I really like these and will be purchasing both of them, so that's two new Amouage additions for me

Yep, I agree! It does smell old and dated.

Man I really do love the opening of Memoir Man. Its beautiful!! The drydown to me is killing it. Too generic and faint.

i hope they reformulate this to be something stronger and longer lasting like they did with Dia. If it can happen once, it can happen again... right? right??! *crosses fingers*

Wore both of these side by side today ( one on each wrist ), the second wearing for both, applying a little heavier this time. A few revised opinions:

Memoir Woman - much more floral forward this time. Yes, there is definitely some tuberose here, but mostly that big grapey jasmine. It's remiding me of a different Lutens this time, too, almost overwhelmingly so: Cedre. The Amouage is a little darker but at least up top, no less sweet.

Enjoying Memoir Woman more the second time around. Getting the same subtle burnt tobacco vibe I first articulated while wearing Memoir Man, too.

Memoir Man - loving it a lot more this time, really. The first time I was so-so on the drydown, but this time its burnt-smelling drydown troubles me less.

That's exactly how it was for me too. The first time I was rather "meh" on the drydown, but I now find it to be excellent. I don't fully understand Vibert's review as the late stage drydown of this is one of the most natural smelling in the Amouage line, to my nose. I get a good dose of oakmoss, just a hint of vanilla, and some lingering incense. The last wearing, the oakmoss really shone through in the drydown - it was quiet and subtle but still noticeable 12 or so hours after application. Longevity and projection of this scent is less than most of the rest of the line, and that seems to be in line with its more natural smelling (to my nose) dry down. Besides, if the scent were any more powerful, its burnt, ashen qualities could become quite irksome. As it is, they remain intriguing. It seems to be poised at the perfect volume level such that it never becomes overbearing and yet it is just loud enough that all of its subtle nuances can be discerned.

Alright, I have changed my mind... but not to the better I like neither of them. I can see what people attracts to Memoir Woman, but to me it's cloying with a distgusting "saturation" and still smelling so artificial. Memoir Man - I just did not enjoy the full wearing the longer I wore it... right along the line with the Man's Amouage. The burning incense and whatever house note for the Man's - though reduced here - tends to make me sick. Period.

This is my second time wearing Memoir Man. And I must say I get it now. You enter a green and fresh forest. Bright and shine. All the trees are wet. The forest seduces you. You keep going and going... until you see the trees get taller and taller, greener and greener, then suddenly it gets darker and darker. You stay there, around you, there is something hiding. Sometimes it gets so closed to you... Something mysterious goes around you. You can see it moving... You can smell its skin... You can feel its heat... And you just keep being curious and trying to "see" what you wanna "see"... Memoir ...

I can understand why people get Gucci pour homme, Serge Noir...in Memoir. I also get Kenzo Boisee and CdG Wonderwood in Memoir. But, I must tell you that I've never ever tasted anything like Memoir. Memoir smells like nothing that I've tried. It is not as thick as Epic or Gold or Reflection. But it is not simple or linear. Like a strange symphony, which I am addicted to its every single second performing, I can smell the boozy leather, the dry tobacco, the creamy sandalwood, the sweetness of woody notes... They are there to make you get losted in Memoir.

Memoir is not like its brothers. It is modern, manly, strong, but not-in-ur-face. Both longervity and sillage are brilliant. Memoir is daring.

About Memoir Woman... I just wore it once. and MW reminded me of Serge Lutens. It is sweet, very oriental style. It smells like Serge Cedre, but less sweet and more creamy. MW is nice, romantic, and alluring.

Sycomore on steroids, AWESOME!!

Im trying this just quick tonight and Im actually really loving it . Mint note is awesome loving the whole sandalwood absinthe and mint thing . Very grown up , deffo needs a few more tries , its getting too late Im making less sense than usual .

Can anyone compare this to Kilian's Pure Oud? I remember seeing a comment somewhere - I can't recall at the moment - that they were similar. Just curious, because if that's true, I'll have to sample Pure Oud!

If they're similar then I had an all-nighter with Russell Brand...

Not even apples and oranges. Apples and... leather pencils, perhaps? Don't get me wrong, they're both great fragrances, but they're nothing alike. The only common denominator is being woody on some level.

I had a bit of a revelation today after applying Memoir Man. This might sound crazy but.. I get some similarities between Memoir Man and Dior Homme. Yes, their scent profiles are completely different but I sense a bit of the lavender/iris/sage accord that comprises the first half of Dior Homme in Memoir. I think the analogous notes in Memoir Man are of course lavender, and then also the wormwood and perhaps rose. Of course in Memoir it is all flanked by tobacco and smoky incense.

I also think there may be an aromachemical that the two share - a sweet, almost crystalline musk.

Am I crazy or does anyone else smell this?

Two things that i cannot see in Amouage Memoir woman after wearing it on skin: a leather aroma; chypre accords. If this is Chypre, then I'm Brad Pitt (which i'm completely 100% sure I'm not). Amouage Memoir Woman acts like a spicy floral with the generous high quality incense that amouage likes to use. And Amouage Memoir Woman is quite like Epic Woman in terms of projection: they don't whisper, they shout in a elegant way.
The opening is like Poison has emerged from ashes, in it's glorious way. You have that dark-fruity aroma of Poison in Memoir Woman after the first moments, which is followed by incense and spicy touches. I can notice the bitter-cool aroma of wormood at first, and i think that the dark fruity aroma is partly due to the wormwood note. I already notice a tuberose note at this stage, which disappear for a moment and then show itself again later. The incense and the combination of sweet-spicy pink pepper, dry cardamom, pepper and clove may make it seem similar to Serge Noire in structure, but they differ in the point where Serge Noire has a intense oppening of saffron, which is lacking here. Also, the incense and cardamom are the notes that dominate the accord and are modelated by the other spices surrounding them. Then, the incense and spices go away and what comes to focus is a big floral accord. I don't think it's close to Cedre either, because Cedre doesn't have the generous jasmine and neroli combination that Memoir Woman has. At this point, Memoir Woman goes close to Serge Lutens Mandarine Mandarim and to a specific moment of Guerlain Boise Torride. The three fragrances has that citrus-sweaty flower accord that only appears on a fragranc when you have jasmine with orange flower or neroli. But Memoir Woman again relys on the spices to make the flower accord more spicy, salty, then the other two fragrances mentioned.
The base is more smoky, resinous, slightly musky, than mossy and leathery. I'm trying to see the leather and moss accord here, but they may be in a small dose in this case.
Memoir Woman seems like a fragrance to be wore when you want to be noticed. It's not a shy combination, not a simple one either. It doesn't seem to go entirely on a progressive top-drydown evolution, and seem to work more in matches of three-four ingredients that comes to focus and then gives space for other notes to take central part of the fragrance. At the drydown i can still smell the jasmine, the neroli, the spices, the tuberose, some of the wormwood, but what it's on focus it's the musk, styrax and labdanum. I'd say that it develops in some acts, the first being the wormwood-tuberose-cardamom, then cardamom-pepper-incense-clove, then jasmine and white flowers (which is neroli and orange flower to my nose), then musk, styrax and labdanum.

Sampling Neil Morris' Prowl tonight, it immediately reminded me of Memoir Woman. You know, this is what Memoir could have smelled like. My lay nose and imagination sees no problem to incorporate the frankincense note of the boswellia sacra kind here, which Amouage requires "by definition". Prowl by Neil Morris declasses Memoir Woman clearly for me being also more beguiling and interesting in its composition.

Is Memoar Man a bit similar to L`Artisan Fou d`Absinthe?

At the beginning, kind of. But after about 15 minutes they turn in quite different directions. Better to say, Absinthe remains about what it was, but Memoire would leave behind the initial green-mint notes, and turns into a rather faint spicy-smokey-sweet scent. In this category I find Aigner Black Man a far better scent.

What do you think of the sillage and longevity on Memoir man?

Longevity is very good and sillage is medium... for an Amouage. It behaves more like Dia in this regard - great longevity and subdued but noticeable sillage.

Sounds perfect!

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