Two things that i cannot see in Amouage Memoir woman after wearing it on skin: a leather aroma; chypre accords. If this is Chypre, then I'm Brad Pitt (which i'm completely 100% sure I'm not). Amouage Memoir Woman acts like a spicy floral with the generous high quality incense that amouage likes to use. And Amouage Memoir Woman is quite like Epic Woman in terms of projection: they don't whisper, they shout in a elegant way.
The opening is like Poison has emerged from ashes, in it's glorious way. You have that dark-fruity aroma of Poison in Memoir Woman after the first moments, which is followed by incense and spicy touches. I can notice the bitter-cool aroma of wormood at first, and i think that the dark fruity aroma is partly due to the wormwood note. I already notice a tuberose note at this stage, which disappear for a moment and then show itself again later. The incense and the combination of sweet-spicy pink pepper, dry cardamom, pepper and clove may make it seem similar to Serge Noire in structure, but they differ in the point where Serge Noire has a intense oppening of saffron, which is lacking here. Also, the incense and cardamom are the notes that dominate the accord and are modelated by the other spices surrounding them. Then, the incense and spices go away and what comes to focus is a big floral accord. I don't think it's close to Cedre either, because Cedre doesn't have the generous jasmine and neroli combination that Memoir Woman has. At this point, Memoir Woman goes close to Serge Lutens Mandarine Mandarim and to a specific moment of Guerlain Boise Torride. The three fragrances has that citrus-sweaty flower accord that only appears on a fragranc when you have jasmine with orange flower or neroli. But Memoir Woman again relys on the spices to make the flower accord more spicy, salty, then the other two fragrances mentioned.
The base is more smoky, resinous, slightly musky, than mossy and leathery. I'm trying to see the leather and moss accord here, but they may be in a small dose in this case.
Memoir Woman seems like a fragrance to be wore when you want to be noticed. It's not a shy combination, not a simple one either. It doesn't seem to go entirely on a progressive top-drydown evolution, and seem to work more in matches of three-four ingredients that comes to focus and then gives space for other notes to take central part of the fragrance. At the drydown i can still smell the jasmine, the neroli, the spices, the tuberose, some of the wormwood, but what it's on focus it's the musk, styrax and labdanum. I'd say that it develops in some acts, the first being the wormwood-tuberose-cardamom, then cardamom-pepper-incense-clove, then jasmine and white flowers (which is neroli and orange flower to my nose), then musk, styrax and labdanum.