Maître Parfumeur & Gantier Parfum d'Habit (1998) Leather Oriental
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Top Notes: Blackcurrant Buds, Bergamot, Petitgrain Middle Notes: Leather, Geranium, Patchouli, Incense Base Notes: Sandalwood, Ambergris, Vanilla
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That's the skinny on the pyramid. Whereas most leather scents are imposed on a chypre accord, this one is basically an oriental with leather overlaid on it. It is a little "heady" at first (I wouldn't say "harsh"). The closest this comes to any floral note is the geranium in the heart, but that's effectively pulled away from any floral associations by the leather, patchouli, and incense context it's given here. The base is a classic oriental accord. While the top is the usual citrus, there is the addition of a little blackcurrant bud note for a more exotic fruity impression. You really need to like a more formal (and slightly quirky) leather fragrance to appreciate Parfum d'Habit. The French name, by the way, suggests wearing it with evening clothes you know, the black tie outfit studs, cufflinks, satin facings, cummerbund, and all. (Definitely possible, but not really required!)