Originally Posted by MonkeyBars
Well, by weight ethyl vanillin may
be six times cheaper than real vanilla absolute (I don't know), but it's also orders of magnitude stronger since it's pure aromachemical; I wouldn't be surprised if you need only 1% as much weight to get a similar dose in a perfume. In that example, that would mean by potency vanillin is almost 17x cheaper.
I looooove Jicky, and like MdM, while I dislike the Caron. This is because of the drydown's vanilla. It reminds me of cardboard / cheap drugstore vanilla ice cream, which I assume is because there is no natural vanilla. Jicky is supposed to contain both
vanillin and real vanilla, to make a sort of hybrid "improved" vanilla accord. Luscious and rich.
A helpful post that sheds some light on something that has been puzzling me. Yes, I agree about Caron's vanilla drydown - I don't mind it, but I have smelled better. Feeling that the vanilla could be better than it is has tended to trouble me a little. Guerlain using a sort of hybrid of vanillas to make a "vanilla accord", rather than using a monolithic 'vanilla', makes sense, and would explain its lusciousness.
I seem to have been misinformed about synthetic vanilla costing more than the natural absolute. I was citing someone I had heard mention it. Apparently vanillin was first isolated in 1858 by Nicolas-Theodore Gobley, and began to be commercially manufactured a few decades later, so CPuH, MdM and Jicky may well have all used it (together with anything else) from the start. It is relevant for CPuH that the cost of vanillin appears to have fallen dramatically in the 1930s. A factor in its creation? I wonder.
Interestingly, wikipedia mentions that 'natural "vanilla extract' is a mixture of several hundred different compounds in addition to vanillin."