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Serge Lutens Fragrances.

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
I recently bought Ambre Sultan and I love it, got some compliments wearing it, so what should my next Lutens purchase be? May I have the benefit of your experiences? Perhaps a brief look at my wardrobe would help. I defer to my associates in fragrance. Your opinions and suggestions will be appreciated.
post #2 of 33
Chergui is a good one. Gris Clair and Daim Blond - also popular.
post #3 of 33
My two other favorites are Chergui and Five O'Clock Gingebre. Douce Amere is another good one that somedays I crave some days I find it cloying.

I'm yet to try the full line though.
post #4 of 33
Chergui Chergui Chergui !
Also maybe Arabie -it's unusual .
So many good ones though !
post #5 of 33
I could only recommend my love - Tubereuse Criminelle, the state of the arts, the nirvana.
post #6 of 33
Well, I love Chergui and I think it is made for my skin
Looking at your wardrobe, two came to my mind: I'd check this year's exclusive joining the export range, which will be Cuir Mauresque and I'd try to get a sample of La Myrrhe. And yes, Sarrasins!
post #7 of 33
Ambre Sultan was my first SL, I actually knew I would love it before I bought.

Douce Amere
Cuir Mauresque(I have my name on an export bottle when released on the 4th October)
Daim Blond
Encens et Lavande(boutique only)
Cedar is actually a tuberose fragrance but has wonderful medical note feel
Arabie(go to the men's board and so many adore this. Stewed figs and spice)
Bas de Soie is iris and hyacinth
La Myrrh(boutique only, but a myrrh which starts with a blast of aldehydes)
post #8 of 33
There are so many good ones from this house!

I own 24 of them so far and I'm still missing some of the great ones like Tubereuse Criminelle, Cuir Mauresque, and Iris Silver Mist.

Of the ones I am familiar with, if you want something on the sweeter side, then Arabie, Chergui, Cedre, or Fumerie Turque. On the less sweet, woodier side, then Borneo 1834, Rousse, Gris Clair, or Muscs Koublai Khan.

Sa Majeste la Rose is very good, and so is Fille en Anguilles and Un Bois Vanille. I would recommend searching out the original Shiseido Feminite du Bois, but the new Serge Lutens version is also good.
post #9 of 33
A La Nuit
post #10 of 33
Cuir Mauresque
Chene
Fumerie Turque
Fille en Aguilles
Tubereuse Criminelle
Rose de Nuit
Bois de Violette
La Myrrhe
Sarrasins
Iris Silver Mist
Chergui
post #11 of 33
Chergui & Daim Blond (of those I know and wear).
post #12 of 33
For "man", available in export i'd say: Muscs Koublai Khan (muscs with vegetals notes), Fumerie Turque (tobacco and vanilia but not gourmand), Bois de violette (sweet woody), Bornéo 1834 (dry patchouly), Chêne (oak, dry wood), Douce amère (absinthe), Daim blond (suede with apricot), Chergui (sweet crystallized resinous)
post #13 of 33
I liked Arabie, Daim Blond , Chergui (means eastern in Arabic not easterner), Ambre Sultan, 5 o clock ginger
post #14 of 33
Ambre Sultan is one of the lutens that i truly hate. The smell on me reminds of propolis. While I enjoyed Chergui, there is something on it that is quite sickening on my skin after it start to develop. It`s a sweet, smoky hay impression that i dislike.
I enjoy Five O Clock, it`s one of the easier Lutens to wear and it`s a great spicy, moderate sweet ginger fragrance.
I also love Chypre Rouge and Serge Noire, wich seems to be two massively hated lutens frags.
Does anyone have difficulties in wearing Lutens Frags? While I like them, I end not wearing my Lutens frags...
post #15 of 33
My favorites are probably La Myrrhe and Bois de Violette, but they are somewhat difficult to find. My husband's favorite perfume of all is Arabie.
post #16 of 33
Chergui, Borneo 1834, Daim Blond, maybe Encens et Lavande - it's worth getting a sample of, anyway.
But certainly Chergui.
post #17 of 33
Consider trying Santal de Mysore.
post #18 of 33
I love his Ambre sultan, Borneo and La Myrrhe. I didn't really love his other fragrances as far as I have tested them.
post #19 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickbr View Post

Ambre Sultan is one of the lutens that i truly hate. The smell on me reminds of propolis. While I enjoyed Chergui, there is something on it that is quite sickening on my skin after it start to develop. It`s a sweet, smoky hay impression that i dislike.
I enjoy Five O Clock, it`s one of the easier Lutens to wear and it`s a great spicy, moderate sweet ginger fragrance.
I also love Chypre Rouge and Serge Noire, wich seems to be two massively hated lutens frags.
Does anyone have difficulties in wearing Lutens Frags? While I like them, I end not wearing my Lutens frags...

I hesitate to make any recommendations. I seem to like the ones that very few people like: Serge Noire, Louve, 5 o'clock au gingembre, Rousse. I also love Douce Amere, but it is being discontinued from the export line. I love Borneo, and that one is more popular among Basenoters
post #20 of 33
Lord, where to start.....

If you love the whole Lutens sweet spice/stewed spice thing (which I do), then you can't go wrong with:

Chergui (smoky sweet spice with hay and vanilla drydown)
Fumerie Turque (smoky honey)
Un Bois Vanille (sweet woods)
Arabie (a whopper of stewed spices -- on me, cool weather only)
Mandarine Mandarin (the love child of Fleurs d'Oranger and Arabie)

If you like a little leather with your sweet, then:

Sarrasins (jasmine + lots of leather -- at least on me)
Daim Blond (apricot + suede + a hint of smoke)
Cuir Mauresque (leather + spice + leather + leather + leather) -- did I mention there was leather?

Muscs Koublai Khan is in a class all by itself -- it's a bit drier at the top and middle than other Lutens, but there's a fabulous waft of leather on me at about the 10 minute mark. The dry-down is softer, sweeter, and delicious. I don't know where people get the whole sweaty horse genitalia thing. It's wonderful.

Chene and Santal Blanc are two of the drier, less sweet Lutens offerings. Although Chene starts off with a boozy blast of something (rum?), that vanishes pretty quickly on me and goes straight into an amazingly realistic oak that softens slowly as the immortelle comes on. I find Santal Blanc challenging to wear on its own (very realistic newly-sharpened pencil shavings) but fabulous when layering. I often layer Santal Blanc underneath Carnal Flower or A La Nuit in the summer.

And, the ones that started it all for me:

Bois de Violette (lovely sweet violets with a shock of cumin and cedar -- this, along with Apres l'Ondee, is my favorite rainy-weather fragrance)
Feminite du Bois (Bois de Violette only spicier but less cumin and some plum)

Can anyone say "Lutens Slave/Addict/Slut?"
post #21 of 33

After Guerlain, Lutens is my absolute favorite house:


Chene
Fille en Aguilles
Muscs Koublai Khan
Fleurs de Citronier
Gris Clair


post #22 of 33
Quote:
I seem to like the ones that very few people like: Serge Noire, Louve, 5 o'clock au gingembre, Rousse. I also love Douce Amere, but it is being discontinued from the export line. I love Borneo, and that one is more popular among Basenoters

I love these one too (except Louve which i prefer Rahat loukoum for almond).
Serge Noire is a must try for encens lovers.
post #23 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

I love these one too (except Louve which i prefer Rahat loukoum for almond).
Serge Noire is a must try for encens lovers.

I love incense and so wanted to love Serge Noire, but it actually gives me a headache!

I have Five O'Clock au Gingembre coming as a sample and can't wait to try it now that autumn is finally here.

N_Tesla, I understand how a lot of people like Borneo 1834 -- its patchouli starts off with a bit of chill (that's the camphor), and as it warms up, it does a anti-Lutensian thing and gets *very* dry, as opposed to his standard sweet and spicy. On me, it's so dry that it actually goes dusty, ruining the patchouli for me.
post #24 of 33
I don't know if it works across the Atlantic, but I just recieved 6 small booklets from Serge Lutens, with 4 testers in each, solid perfume unfortunately, but still I just sent an email through their site and asked politely - easy peasy - worth a try...
post #25 of 33
Fumerie Turque for sure!
post #26 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post

I recently bought Ambre Sultan and I love it, got some compliments wearing it, so what should my next Lutens purchase be? May I have the benefit of your experiences? Perhaps a brief look at my wardrobe would help. I defer to my associates in fragrance. Your opinions and suggestions will be appreciated.

After briefly perusing your wardrobe (contains many exquisite scent gems by the way) may I humbly suggest the following from the Serge Lutens line:

Encens et Lavande - I prefer this to the more 'popular' Gris Clair. True lavender and ashes, the ashes are from wood permeated by incense. Divine!
Fleurs D'Oranger
Chergui
La Myrrhe
Cuir Mauresque
Arabie
Iris Silver Mist
Borneo 1834
Un Bois Sepia
post #27 of 33
I like Muscs Koublaï Khän, Borneo 1834, Gris Clair, Chêne, Un Lys, and Douce Amère enough to want to get a full bottle.

I really do not like Ambre Sultan, though.
post #28 of 33
No one has mentioned Vetiver Oriental yet. I think that might be worth testing for you

Already mentioned, but definitely worth looking at:
Fumerie Turque
Chergui
Cuir Mauresque
Un Bois Vanille
Santal de Mysore
Chene
Douce Amere
MKK
post #29 of 33
My favorites are (unbelievably) not mentioned here.
Maybe because they are only in non-export, but well worth the trouble.
Bois Oriental
Vetiver Oriental
Both, gorgeous, deep & sensuous. Vetiver is green & grassy,
Bois is woody & boozy, almost gourmand.
post #30 of 33
Bois Oriental is my favourite "Bois" too, i'm wearing it often, perfect balance beetween fruit and spices imo.
post #31 of 33
I plan to buy Louve today. I'm drawn to oriental/spice, oriental/floral. I've been missing a bit of light hearted fun! I tried it on my skin and I love that it dries down, rose/floral. My skin has a tendancy to make scents sweeter and sweet scents almost, instantly turn to nothing but sugar water. Louve didn't do that.I've had so many samples of Lutens, feels like I'm getting my 3d bottle, but it'll be the 1rst. Plus, I think I need a baiting scent! ;-D
post #32 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post

I hesitate to make any recommendations. I seem to like the ones that very few people like: Serge Noire, Louve, 5 o'clock au gingembre, Rousse. I also love Douce Amere, but it is being discontinued from the export line. I love Borneo, and that one is more popular among Basenoters

You're in fine company, my dear. I LOVE & WEAR Serge Noire, 5 o'clock au gingembre & Rousse. I also enjoy Daim Blond, Douce Amere, Sa Majeste la Rose, Arabie, Chypre Rouge, Fille en Aiguilles, Chergui, etc. A fine house indeed.
post #33 of 33
I haven't smelled the complete line of Lutens (but would love to do that).

Chergui
Daim Blond
Vetiver Oriental
Five O'clock Au Gingembre
Fille En Aiguilles
Douce Amere
Gris Clair
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