Something I've been wondering about: I've heard that civet is used in fragrance partly as a fixative. This in itself would make me think that it would appear as a basenote, as other fixatives such as sandalwood and oakmoss do. However, in the fragrances containing it which I'm familiar with - Jicky, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Caron Pour Un Homme and Kouros - it seems to appear (certainly at its strongest) in the top notes. Does this mean that it persists all the way through to the basenotes, but in a mellower form, and does its work as a fixative then?
Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Fragrance Industry and General Fragrance Discussion › Question about civet
Recent Reviews
-
I have either bought a fake(Iam sure I have not as it was from Escentual) or the most boring scent ever.Sweet,cloying with melon hints.Dont bother with this one.
-
In my opinion beyond love is related to carnal flower really closely but yet so different. As an example of what I'm trying to say is like Fracas had two daughters, the naughty crazy and loud...
-
I find this to be so wonderfully complex. It evolves throughout the day like few other fragrances that I've tried. I have not tried the EDT, but I love the EDP so much I'm gonna stick with it....
-
This is one of those sweet fragrances that men in their late 40's are not supposed to like, but I'll wear what I darn well please! The fact that the sweetness is so beautifully balanced with...
-
I tried the "extreme" version before this one, and was neutral. Then I tried the EDT and wow! This has all of the smoothness of the extreme, but add a brightness that really sparkles (if you...
Question about civet
post #2 of 9
9/22/10 at 6:42am
post #3 of 9
9/22/10 at 7:19am
post #4 of 9
9/22/10 at 8:19am
- JaimeB
- offline
- Gender:

- Trader Feedback: +9
- I just want to smell good
-
- 5,389 Posts. Joined 10/2005
- Location: San Francisco, California
- Select All Posts By This User
There is natural civet, and then there are artificial civets like cis-Civetone and Cyclohexadecenone-5 (actually a subsitute for muscone). Natural civet's main component is Civetone, a macrocyclic ketone.
My suspicion is that artificial civets may be less potent than the natural stuff and that they might serve better as top- or mid-notes in perfume compositions. The companies that make them claim that they function as well as the natural stuff for fixation properties.
Apparently raising civets in captivity to get their perineal secretions is considered a cruel practice because the "harvesting" of the material involves some discomfort to the animals, so the natural stuff is experiencing less demand in the market. Chanel, for example, says they have stopped using the natural material since 1998.
My suspicion is that artificial civets may be less potent than the natural stuff and that they might serve better as top- or mid-notes in perfume compositions. The companies that make them claim that they function as well as the natural stuff for fixation properties.
Apparently raising civets in captivity to get their perineal secretions is considered a cruel practice because the "harvesting" of the material involves some discomfort to the animals, so the natural stuff is experiencing less demand in the market. Chanel, for example, says they have stopped using the natural material since 1998.
post #5 of 9
9/22/10 at 3:33pm
- gido
- offline
- Gender:

- 1,603 Posts. Joined 5/2008
- Location: Amsterdam
- Select All Posts By This User
something being a basenote, that does not mean that you won't smell it in the top. most basenotes do. being a basenote means that the molecular size is large, which in turn means the evaporation process takes longer. they just last longer, that's all. however, i have noticed with some musks (the largest of them all, on the border of our odor threshold) that they seem to get more intense over time. (btw, often materials do smell different after some time, certainly with naturals, which consist of top-heart-and-basenotes all by themselves.)
but, think about it, if you would open a bottle of pure civet, would you expect it not have a smell for some hours?
of course, topnotes and modifiers (heartnotes) can act as a mask, covering up something in the base that then only seems to occur with time. but that's not usually how perfumers think. they rather extend something from top-to-base, maybe only trying to cover up certain unwanted aspects (a practice much more common in functional perfumery, trying to hide the bad odor of the product itself) that certain aroma materials have as a byproduct, adding something up top that seems to overpower the (often more quiet) basenotes but really rather connects to it, extend, enrich, etc.
civet has by nature (and this includes civet chemicals) a very, very strong odor, and very outspoken. so if there is a lot of it in a formula, chances are more than a little than you are going to smell it straight away.
i hope this answers you question.
best,
gido.
but, think about it, if you would open a bottle of pure civet, would you expect it not have a smell for some hours?
of course, topnotes and modifiers (heartnotes) can act as a mask, covering up something in the base that then only seems to occur with time. but that's not usually how perfumers think. they rather extend something from top-to-base, maybe only trying to cover up certain unwanted aspects (a practice much more common in functional perfumery, trying to hide the bad odor of the product itself) that certain aroma materials have as a byproduct, adding something up top that seems to overpower the (often more quiet) basenotes but really rather connects to it, extend, enrich, etc.
civet has by nature (and this includes civet chemicals) a very, very strong odor, and very outspoken. so if there is a lot of it in a formula, chances are more than a little than you are going to smell it straight away.
i hope this answers you question.
best,
gido.
post #6 of 9
9/22/10 at 4:07pm
- JaimeB
- offline
- Gender:

- Trader Feedback: +9
- I just want to smell good
-
- 5,389 Posts. Joined 10/2005
- Location: San Francisco, California
- Select All Posts By This User
A little further research yielded some more synthetic substitutes for civet:
Givaudan :Civette Givco 208
Odor: civet
It adds diffusive warmth to fragrances and provides the distinctive effect produced by natural civet in floral-jasmin, amber, oriental, chypre, and tobacco accords. It does not contain any animal extract.
Robertet :Odoressence Civet 6923
(w/o animal product)
Robertet:Crops calendar
Vigon :Civette Synthetic Cnc
Odor: Civet
[http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/ab1059381.html]
Odor: civet
It adds diffusive warmth to fragrances and provides the distinctive effect produced by natural civet in floral-jasmin, amber, oriental, chypre, and tobacco accords. It does not contain any animal extract.
Robertet :Odoressence Civet 6923
(w/o animal product)
Robertet:Crops calendar
Vigon :Civette Synthetic Cnc
Odor: Civet
[http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/ab1059381.html]
post #7 of 9
9/22/10 at 4:34pm
- gido
- offline
- Gender:

- 1,603 Posts. Joined 5/2008
- Location: Amsterdam
- Select All Posts By This User
jaimeb,
there are, and have been, much more synthetic substitutes than the ones mentioned already. and believe me, the ones i have smelled are incredibly potent. i find it's better to dilute them to below 1% before use. the one i have here is civetol and it's diluted to 0.2%.
another thing, animal cruelty is not necessary perse for harvesting natural civet. but it was (and probably still is) common practice. of course, the animals have to be kept captive in order to obtain the civet, but from what i understand they will 'mark' poles in their cages all by themselves as this is their natural behavior, and the civet can then be scraped of the poles. no need to hurt the animals. but one would need to visit the source in order to be sure there is no cruelty involved, and the animals can live in reasonable circumstances. (which depends on personal judgment, and the farmers might present you with an image that's far better than reality).
there are, and have been, much more synthetic substitutes than the ones mentioned already. and believe me, the ones i have smelled are incredibly potent. i find it's better to dilute them to below 1% before use. the one i have here is civetol and it's diluted to 0.2%.
another thing, animal cruelty is not necessary perse for harvesting natural civet. but it was (and probably still is) common practice. of course, the animals have to be kept captive in order to obtain the civet, but from what i understand they will 'mark' poles in their cages all by themselves as this is their natural behavior, and the civet can then be scraped of the poles. no need to hurt the animals. but one would need to visit the source in order to be sure there is no cruelty involved, and the animals can live in reasonable circumstances. (which depends on personal judgment, and the farmers might present you with an image that's far better than reality).
post #8 of 9
9/23/10 at 8:30am
- JaimeB
- offline
- Gender:

- Trader Feedback: +9
- I just want to smell good
-
- 5,389 Posts. Joined 10/2005
- Location: San Francisco, California
- Select All Posts By This User
Quote:
Originally Posted by gido 
jaimeb,
there are, and have been, much more synthetic substitutes than the ones mentioned already. and believe me, the ones i have smelled are incredibly potent. i find it's better to dilute them to below 1% before use. the one i have here is civetol and it's diluted to 0.2%.
another thing, animal cruelty is not necessary perse for harvesting natural civet. but it was (and probably still is) common practice. of course, the animals have to be kept captive in order to obtain the civet, but from what i understand they will 'mark' poles in their cages all by themselves as this is their natural behavior, and the civet can then be scraped of the poles. no need to hurt the animals. but one would need to visit the source in order to be sure there is no cruelty involved, and the animals can live in reasonable circumstances. (which depends on personal judgment, and the farmers might present you with an image that's far better than reality).

jaimeb,
there are, and have been, much more synthetic substitutes than the ones mentioned already. and believe me, the ones i have smelled are incredibly potent. i find it's better to dilute them to below 1% before use. the one i have here is civetol and it's diluted to 0.2%.
another thing, animal cruelty is not necessary perse for harvesting natural civet. but it was (and probably still is) common practice. of course, the animals have to be kept captive in order to obtain the civet, but from what i understand they will 'mark' poles in their cages all by themselves as this is their natural behavior, and the civet can then be scraped of the poles. no need to hurt the animals. but one would need to visit the source in order to be sure there is no cruelty involved, and the animals can live in reasonable circumstances. (which depends on personal judgment, and the farmers might present you with an image that's far better than reality).
You obviously have much more knowledge of civet (and other aspects of perfumery as well) than I do, so I am happy to read what you wrote. I am not in the business of making perfumes or (at this point) even getting samples of individual notes. My interest is simply as a consumer and admirer of perfumes. I do enjoy looking up stuff on the 'net and in books. It seems natural civet is disappearing from perfumery these days, and that other animal notes (except for beeswax) are declining, too. It's too bad that these traditions are being lost, although I understand that there are often good reasons for not harvesting these products any more.
What seems to me more sinister, however, is that the synthetics industry seems to be organizing to get more and more botanical naturals banned or controlled also. It seems that they are doing this more out of economic self-interest than concern for public safety, although they throw up that cloud to have a plausible pretext for their manipulation of the market...
post #9 of 9
9/23/10 at 11:12am
- Sugandaraja
- offline
- Gender:

- 6,541 Posts. Joined 8/2007
- Location: Vancouver, BC
- Select All Posts By This User
I've tried wearing straight civet tincture and it definitely has this quality of coming on sharp and fecal and then mellowing fairly quickly to something less rank. Haven't worn any dilutions of civet replacements, so I can't compare. It's certainly not as long lasting as, say, patchouli or vetiver.
I've worn fragrances where civet jumps out at once ( Jicky; MKK ) and also fragrances where it peaks through in the drydown ( Sarrasins comes to mind ). I suspect a big part of it is how civet-dominant the particular composition is.
I've worn fragrances where civet jumps out at once ( Jicky; MKK ) and also fragrances where it peaks through in the drydown ( Sarrasins comes to mind ). I suspect a big part of it is how civet-dominant the particular composition is.
Return Home
Back to Forum: Fragrance Industry and General Fragrance Discussion
- Question about civet
Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Fragrance Industry and General Fragrance Discussion › Question about civet
Currently, there are 474 Active Users
(55 Members and 419 Guests)
Recent Discussions
- › Wise Sayings Of The Day 1 minute ago
- › Frederic Malle Une rose or Portrait of a lady 3 minutes ago
- › Yohji Homme relaunch, a potential disappointment? 4 minutes ago
- › Montale. 5 minutes ago
- › Summer and fragrance taste 6 minutes ago
- › Album, EP or Song of the Day - June 2013 6 minutes ago
- › The New Ralph Lauren Polo Red smells... 10 minutes ago
- › Luca Turin's Ratings (a compilation) 10 minutes ago
- › COTD—how are we caffeinating today? 10 minutes ago
- › Lemon Eau de Cologne 11 minutes ago
View: New Posts | All Discussions
Recent Reviews
- › Amazingreen by Comme des Garçons, 2012 by rockface2004
- › Beyond Love by By Kilian by ScentedLife
- › Terre D'Hermès Parfum by Hermès, 2009 by Gary F
- › Rochas Man by Rochas, 1999 by Gary F
- › L'Instant De Guerlain Pour Homme by Guerlain, 2004 by Gary F
- › Horizon by Guy Laroche, 1993 by Gary F
- › Fahrenheit by Christian Dior, 1988 by Gary F
- › Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel, 1990 by Gary F
- › Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, 1982 by Gary F
- › Déclaration by Cartier, 1998 by Gary F
View: More Reviews
New Fragrance Articles
- › Aoud by M.Micallef celebrates its Tenth... by Judith Brockless
- › Dueto Parfums release new fragrance, Citiver by Judith Brockless
- › Guerlain ‘Les Parisiennes’... by Judith Brockless
- › Iris Prima: ‘The Spirit of the Ballet. ... by Judith Brockless
- › Pell Wall Releases 1953 Pour Homme and Eau de... by Judith Brockless
- › Serge Lutens by Grant
- › An Interview with Christopher Sheldrake -... by Grant
- › Aedes de Venustas launch Iris Nazarena next... by Grant
- › UK FiFi Award winners 2013 by Grant
- › UK FiFi Awards tonight. by Grant
Home | Fragrance Product Guide | Forums | Fragrance Articles | My Profile
About Basenotes | Join the Community | Advertise
© 2013 Basenotes is powered by Huddler Fashion & Lifestyle
About Basenotes | Join the Community | Advertise
© 2013 Basenotes is powered by Huddler Fashion & Lifestyle

