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Your 3 favorite perfumers and WHY!

post #1 of 30
10/8/10 at 4:11am
Thread Starter 
Please list your 3 favorite perfumers, but also *why* you chose them.
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post #2 of 30
10/8/10 at 4:40am
no specific order:

Dominique Ropion
not everything is for me (Carnal Flower e.g., but I can see it's a 'masterpiece'), but what he does in e.g. Une Fleur de Cassie is amazing - a truly grand old-style perfume.

Daniel Maurel
What he did with Amouage Lyric Woman is beyond words. It's the only perfume I would not even think of playing with the notes, trying a bit more of this etc. It sings, it's heaven - PERFECT!

Christopher Sheldrake
At its best with Serge Lutens is hard to beat - monumental and influential creations. Thank you for Chergui!
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post #3 of 30
10/8/10 at 5:51am
SOS, forgive me for not answering the why-part of the question. My brain is for some reason frozen and I can't think of anything to say. Anyhow, my top three perfumers are Jacques Guerlain, Edmund Roudnitska and Jean Laporte.
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post #4 of 30
10/8/10 at 6:20am
Jacques Polge- the sensuality and elegance of Antaeus and of Ungaro III
Emanuel Roudnistska- even if just thanks to Eau Sauvage
Roger Pellegrino- even if just thanks to Armani Eau pour Homme
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post #5 of 30
10/8/10 at 6:30am
My all time favorite:
Maurice Roucel---I LOVE Musc Ravageur, Riverside Drive, and New Haarlem

A couple others off the top of my head without much thought:
Antoine Maisondieu---He created my favorite smell Burberry London, (plus I like Armani Code and Burberry Brit)
Jacques Polge---I like Chanel fragrances
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post #6 of 30
10/8/10 at 6:35am
Thread Starter 
Mine:

Lucas Sieuzac - He's given me one of my all time faves, Reflection Man, but I like almost everything he's had a hand in. He also did Jubilation 25 which is fantastic, and Wicken 3000 which is interesting and minimalistic. His style seems to be very modern, with an emphasis on synthetics injected into a natural framework. He likes to incorporate dualities (hot/cold, bright/dark, etc) into his compositions, too, which keeps them interesting to me over many wearings.

Daniel Visentin - Yep, I think Lyric Man is just that good. I don't know what else he's done, and I don't care (ok, well, I do care, I've just not been able to find anything else attributed to him!). I guess I'm one of the few who prefers Lyric Man to Woman. I find it so beautiful within a natural (as in nature-oriented, not natural ingredients) context - the dew collected from roses at sunrise.


Karine Vinchon - Her Memoir Man is a scent that was designed for me. It fits me in so many ways - it is very very brooding, almost stand-offish. Yet, there is a beauty and harmony at play. I've only smelled this and Opus III by her, which I also quite enjoy even if it's not really "me" (it's more of a mood scent, anyhow). Her style, as far as I can ascertain, involves scents that are quite thick in texture and body - the opposite of say Giacobetti (whom I also love).


I would have included Jean Paul Millet Lage who made one of my other all time favorite scents, Bois de Turquie, but he also messed with a lot of MPG's greatest scents (Route du Vetiver! Grr!) and so I felt I should give the third spot to Karine Vinchon whose work I've only enjoyed thus far.

For the most part, I don't find many perfumers of whom I love the majority of their works. I love a few of Duchaufour's creations (Al Oudh, Jub XXV) and like many more (Sienne L'Hiver, Paestum Rose, etc), but there is something in his style that often leaves me with a relative indifference to his scents. Daniel Maurel has done some really good work with Amouage, but I find his scents often too sweet. The Creeds have been entirely hit and miss with me. It seems this is the case with nearly everyone, thus why 2 of my top 3 are there simply for a specific scent they created!

I should include a few more honorable mentions: Olivia Giacobetti - honestly, I would have had her in my top 3 if only Memoir Man wasn't so perfect for me, thus necessitating the inclusion of Mrs. Vinchon. Navegar and Costes alone secure a top spot.

Isabelle Doyan - I've still SO many of her creations to sniff; almost all of the Annick Goutal house. I really loved her work for Les Nez though, and really like her style. She could move into the top 3 after I experience more of her work.
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post #7 of 30
10/8/10 at 6:49am
Christopher Sheldrake (all the lutens releases...they all smell so unique. they take me to a different place. very original releases)

Pierre Guillame (Parfumerie Generale) - Makes stunning perfumes. always has an element of surprise in his kitty..

Jean Claude Ellena
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post #8 of 30
10/8/10 at 7:15am
Each and everyone has created perfumes for Chanel. Boring right? But can it get any better than Chanel? No, it cant.

Ernest Beaux - The reason why: No. 5, No. 22, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Îles.

Henri Robert - He aint got a huge catalogue like Jacques Polge but he created one of the more memorable scents of the 20th century. No. 19 that is.

Jacques Polge - Nearly three decades of making fine perfumes. I believe that Egoiste, Antaeus, Coco Mademoiselle and Coco will for ever be remembered as classics.
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post #9 of 30
10/8/10 at 9:19am
I think Sophia Grojsman has to be on the list. She's composed a lot of really influential scents, many of which are true masterpieces. There are a few duds as well, but her track record is pretty impressive:

Calyx
White Linen
Trésor
Champagne/Yvresse
Paris
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post #10 of 30
10/8/10 at 10:30am
Jacques Polge - for his phenomenal contribution to Chanel.
Christopher Sheldrake - for his vision & artistry with the Serge Lutens line.
Laurie Erickson - Sonoma Scent Studio's wiz & resident sweetheart. 'nuff said.
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post #11 of 30
10/8/10 at 2:59pm
Tough question - it's so easy to answer with the ones who composed personal favourites and I think it's a bigger question than that . . . whatever.

I know that Jacques Guerlain is my choice for first place. If the only thing he ever did was L'Heure Bleue he would still be No.1, but with Apres L'Ondee, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit and the list just goes on . . . I think the 'why' is simply because his work, to a significant degree, defined perfumery in the 20th Century.

I've only scratched the surface with other's work but I think Patricia de Nicolai second and a tie for Dominique Ropion and Jean Claude Ellena at third.

I personally love New York & Nicolai Pour Homme as definitive 'guy scents' that work for me - nice woody oriental and a lavender cologne+. But I have tried some of the ones you don't hear about on the Male Forum - Sacrebleu and Odalisque, in particular along with the Maharadjah / Mahiranih (?) duo and others and everytime I find an original take on a classic form - there's always a twist and YET you get the impression that she is not trying to prove anything. Understated elan, I guess would be my take on her work. The fact that she offers everything in 30ml as an option is nice.

Each of D. Ropion's compositions with Frederic Malle has stopped me in my tracks and yet there is no 'Ropion note' evident to me. It's almost as if a different persona is there in each one, which in musical terminology would qualify as maestro status to me - genius with no fingerprints.

JCE has the 'minimalist' tag which is fine (I think he gave it to himself) and I love several of the Hermessences line and early TDC stuff as well as the endless riffs on the Declaration theme, but then when you look at his history going back to the 70s as well as quirky one offs like L'Eau de l'Hiver and a more classical piece like Dia Woman you begin to wonder about this guy. It's nice he's doing olfactory haiku right now but I look forward to the day when he just says 'f... it - let's go the more is more route for a change'.

Honourable mention for select personal faves - Pierre Bourdon, Jacque Polge, Jean-Paul Guerlain, Olivia Giacobetti, Maurice Roucel, Cristopher Sheldake, Gerald Ghislain - - - where do you stop?
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post #12 of 30
10/8/10 at 4:03pm
Boy, I am going to have to make this my top three working... so I don't pick three dead guys...

Patricia de Nicolai - I think she knows how to make her wine, so to speak: when to pick the grapes, how to grow them, which ones not to use... And she doesn't get caught up in any trends or make foolish errors. Her version of mastery has class in that good old, real and unpompous way.

J. C. Ellena - He hardly needs a write up, really. All I need to say is Dia Woman. But I can think of only two of his scents that would not strike me instantly as the work of a master of his craft. Whether he's going all minimal or doing plush opulence better than any one else... That's how it's done.

More to come, off to dinner.
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post #13 of 30
10/8/10 at 4:17pm
Jean Paul Guerlain - Chamade, Derby, Habit Rouge, Plus Que Jamais - need I say more?
Bernard Chant - The things this man has done with simple materials like aldehydes, patchouli, vetiver and rose: Aramis, Devin, Cabochard, Aromatics Elixir, Knowing, - everything he did was innovative and endures.
Christopher Sheldrake - Along with his mentor Count Serge, they changed everything as we've known it.
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post #14 of 30
10/8/10 at 7:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

Boy, I am going to have to make this my top three working... so I don't pick three dead guys...

Patricia de Nicolai - I think she knows how to make her wine, so to speak: when to pick the grapes, how to grow them, which ones not to use... And she doesn't get caught up in any trends or make foolish errors. Her version of mastery has class in that good old, real and unpompous way.

J. C. Ellena - He hardly needs a write up, really. All I need to say is Dia Woman. But I can think of only two of his scents that would not strike me instantly as the work of a master of his craft. Whether he's going all minimal or doing plush opulence better than any one else... That's how it's done.

More to come, off to dinner.

My last favorite working perfumer is a tie between Yann Vasnier and Evelyn Boulanger. Both great noses with the wonderful capacity to bridge classicism and modernity. They made Divine Divine and Silver Cologne respectively.

My favorite perfumers not working are: Bernard Chant and Edmond Roudnitska.
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post #15 of 30
10/8/10 at 7:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Tough question - it's so easy to answer with the ones who composed personal favourites and I think it's a bigger question than that . . . whatever.

Y'know, I was struggling with this myself. Even now I'm not sure if it's really acceptable to just list those who created some of my favorites.. did they just get lucky? Is there anything I can tell, stylistically, about them if I have only smelled one or two of their creations (or if they have only made a handful of scents or less)?

And yet, it didn't feel quite right to choose someone whom I like a majority of their works, but where nothing elicited true love.

I guess my problem is that I enjoy a lot of scents but find only a few that really speak to me on a deeper level. Most of my wardrobe doesn't even qualify.. they are nice scents and sometimes the "best of class" as far as my nose is concerned and given my limited sampling, but still not necessarily soul-touching in any way.

My answer would be different if the question was most unique or inventive or daring or minimalist or whatever perfumer, but I felt that my favorite perfumers should be those who have created my favorite scents.. with a preferential nod to those who've created not only one of my favorites, but whose work as a whole I generally like or at least respect.
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post #16 of 30
10/8/10 at 8:55pm
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Christopher Sheldrake: Serge Lutens.

Pierre Guillaume: A chemist-turned-perfumer? I must say that that marketing angle impressed me a little. But "gimmicks" aside, I've yet to come across other creations that do it like PG. He marries quirkiness and wearability with quality. I hate to say it again, but he is a genius. One of the most significant points in my scent journey so far, is the discovery of PG. Had it not been for folks like Moltening, Amit, and bbBD, I probably would never have discovered PG.

JCE: Seriously. Amazes. Me.

From TDC: Bois d’Iris, Bergamote, Osmanthus, Rose Poivrée. The vintage Rose Poivree blows me away. I enjoy it just as much as MKK, and I enjoy it more than Rose 31. I've found my Holy Grail "Dirty Rose" in RP. I was asking another friend and BNer how RP smells sweaty/animalic yet maintains such clarity and lightness, when numerous other rose/civet compositions tend to smell so thick and powdery. Ans: JCE. I'm a huge fan of TDC. * I hope I got the works and attributions right!

Eau de Campagne: This is great work. Though I'm not a fan of old-school greens nowadays, it is great.

His numerous contributions to Hermes and L'Artisan?

And as Hillaire mentioned: Dia




Honorable mentions:

Bertrand Duchaufour, Olivia Giacobetti.
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post #17 of 30
10/8/10 at 8:57pm
Thread Starter 
One of these days I'm going to get around to sampling PG. Lorenzo Villoresi, too. So many scents, so little time (and money!).
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post #18 of 30
10/9/10 at 1:00am
Hard to pick favorites, but three I admire:

Chris Sheldrake, because really, it's hard to believe he works his magic for Serge Lutens using materials available to the rest of the world's top noses, and because he has tackled a very different set of briefs for Chanel with equal mastery.

Annick Menardo, for Bois d'Arménie, Jaïpur Homme, Patchouli 24, and those distinctive aromatic-vanilla études (Bulgari Black, Lolita Lempicka au masculin, Body Kouros)

Bertrand Duchaufour, who is hit or miss for me but who is responsible for so many of my favorites in the L'Artisan line: Al Oudh, Fleur de Liane, Méchant Loup, Nuit de Tubereuse, Timbuktu. (Plus a few I'm dying to try: Aedes de Venustas, Penhaligon's Amaranthine...)

But how can I leave out Vincent Marcello (Yatagan)? Or Dominique Ropion (my favorites in the Malle Line, plus Costume National Homme)? Guess I'll have to fold them into a rhetorical question at the end of my post.
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post #19 of 30
10/9/10 at 8:17am
Olivia Giacobetti -- Ones I own include Dzing!, Tea For Two, Idole de Lubin, Fou d'Absinthe, Safran Troublant, Hiris, and L'Eau de l'Artisan. I also liked Honoré es Prés Vamp Ã* NY, Penhaligon's Elixir, Thé pour un Ãté, Phylosykos, Premier Figuier, L'Ãté en Douce, though I don't own them, yet.

Bertrand Duchaufour -- Ones I own include Al Oudh, Dzongkha, Timbuktu, Piment Brûlant, Poivre Piquant, Havana Vanille, and Patchouli Patch. I also like, but don't yet own, Amaranthine, Aedes de Venustas, Kyoto, Avignon, Mechant Loup, Paestum Rose, Sienne l'Hiver, Nuit de Tubereuse.

Isabelle Doyen -- I have a lot of Annick Goutals (let's count: seven!) that I love and some I want to get, and have been impressed with her work with Les Nez, though don't own any yet.

Honorable Mentions: Christopher Sheldrake and Calice Becker.
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post #20 of 30
10/9/10 at 8:29am
Ok, like most people here, I really enjoy the fragrances from Christopher Sheldrake and Olivia Giacobetti for much of the same reasons.

But another perfumer I really like is Linda Pilkington for Ormonde Jayne. I haven't had a chance to try too many of her scents, but both Ormonde Jayne Man and Zizan are masterpieces in my opinion.
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post #21 of 30
10/9/10 at 12:42pm
Jacques Cavalier
Because of these:
Opium PH
Pasha De Cartier
M7
Rive Gauche PH
Bvlgari Aqua
...
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post #22 of 30
10/9/10 at 7:01pm
Francis Kurkdjian - For the COLOSSAL job at Gaultier scents, wich is my favorite house, so my favorite is Kurkdjian.
Specialy for Le Male, Fleur du Male and Gaultier2. Le Male Terrible i really dont liked so much, and was not made by Kurkdjian, so thumbs up for him!
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post #23 of 30
10/10/10 at 12:20am
Francois Coty
Ernest Beaux
Edmond Roudnitska (studied with Ernest Beaux)

Because when I think of the idea that perfume is the most portable form of intelligence these are the first ones I think of.
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post #24 of 30
10/10/10 at 4:28am
Jacques Guerlain for a genius that allowed him to innovate (Apres L'Ondee), to perfect (L'Heure Bleue), and to "one up" Coty (Shalimar).

Maurice Roucel for his ability to successfully re-interpret known themes (Envy, Insolence, Lyra, Tocade). I especially like his loud fragrances. Roucel knows how to push limits, making a fragrance almost "too much" - but then adding something that *just* keeps it in check. A master of precarious balance.

Annick Menardo for her thoughtful fragrances. Bulgari Black is both weird and plush. Lolita Lempicka has *something* about it, like chatting easily with someone, enjoying the conversation, and suddenly realizing the person is quite clever. Hypnotic Poison: a painting in shades of brown that is suprisingly beautiful. Body Kouros:sweet, spicy, but carefully counter-pointed with eucalyptus(?). Menardo does balance and beauty without looking like she's trying too hard.
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post #25 of 30
10/10/10 at 12:24pm
Olivier Polge - because of Dior Homme and Midnight in Paris
Jacuqes Cavallier - because of his YSL's creations
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post #26 of 30
10/10/10 at 1:28pm
Jean Laporte for Ambre Precieux, Santal Noble, Parfum d' Habit, Route du Vetiver, Eau des Iles.
Lorenzo Villoresi for Piper Nigrum, Yerbamate, Vetiver, Spezie, etc.
Olivia Giacobetti for Dzing!, Tea for Two, Fou d'Absinthe, Passage d'Enfer.
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post #27 of 30
10/18/10 at 12:05am
Thread Starter 
It's good to see some of the more "mainstream" perfumers like Jacques Cavallier getting some love. Kind of surprised nobody has Alberto Morillas listed though!
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post #28 of 30
10/18/10 at 4:22am
Francis Kurkdjian. Jacques Cavallier. Jacques Guerlain.

Their fragrances just resonate with me. I don't think I can even actually analyze why I love their fragrances so much - I just do. It's like analyzing why a certain band is your favorite or a certain movie - it's hard to say why without giving your life story and going too far into subjective accounts.

I can say with confidence though, that Francis Kurkdjian's fragrances, Lumiere Noire pour Homme and Narciso Rodriguez for Her, are verging on olfactory perfection for me.

At the same time, my favorite fragrance of all time, Angeliques sous la Pluie, was created by a perfumer I'm not even crazy about - Jean-Claude Ellena.
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post #29 of 30
10/18/10 at 4:27am
Thread Starter 
Wow, it's great to see you back L'Aventurier. You've been missed!

I've still got to get around to testing Angeliques sous la Pluie. With my love for angelica I'm sure I'll adore that fragrance.

I really like Cavallier's work, too. I think Stella is amazing and actually really love Ultraviolet Man. I think he had a lot to do with the original M7, too, because it doesn't really feel much like Morillas' style.
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post #30 of 30
10/20/10 at 3:34am
Thanks, it's good to be back! I'm currently living in Japan with only a fraction of my fragrance collection, so I've been a little less active here lately.

I think you'll like Angeliques sous la Pluie, if not in terms of how it smells, then at least conceptually. But be forewarned that it doesn't "wow" at first sniff! It took me a ton of different wearings to realize how subtly sexy and charming it is. Believe it or not, it's also my most complimented fragrance of all time.

I think it works so well for me because it's clean in a natural way (it smells a bit antiseptic due to the juniper and cedar but also fresh like a rainstorm due to the geranium). At the same time, it smells very alive, and quite human-like, due to the pepper and angelica. (There might even be the slightest tinge of Iso E Super, used in good taste). It's really a fascinating piece of work in terms of how subtle, yet dense it is.
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