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Escentric Molecules 03- vetiveryle acetate

post #1 of 24
10/19/10 at 7:32am
Thread Starter 
"As with the first two pairs, launched in 2006 and 2008, Schoen has designed two scents as an homage to a single scent ingredient, or aroma-chemical. The aroma-chemical this time is vetiveryle acetate, a refined vetiver note which is celebrated at its purest in Molecule 03.

Escentric 03, on the other hand, is a tribute to the more familiar side of vetiver: its dark, slightly exotic woodiness. The fragrance opens with a burst of freshness – the ginger root is joined by top notes of green peppercorn and Mexican lime. The heart of orris is surrounded by Egyptian jasmine and soft tea notes. Then, at the base of the fragrance, the slightly bitter notes of vetiver are smoothed by rich amber shades of sandalwood, cedar, leather and musk. The overall impression is spicy but fresh with warm balsamic undertones, like a traditional chypre. It’s sensuous without sweetness, which is something of a Schoen signature. And, because he also excels at unexpected associations, you may even detect a fugitive tang of ginger ale."

And photos on my blog: http://niemuzycznapieciolinia.blogsp...orzeniowe.html
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post #2 of 24
10/19/10 at 7:34am
sounds interesting.... i wonder if it will have the large does of IsoE Super this line is know for, but based on the descritpion, it doesn't look to be so...
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post #3 of 24
10/19/10 at 6:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by md1grwl View Post

sounds interesting.... i wonder if it will have the large does of IsoE Super this line is know for, but based on the descritpion, it doesn't look to be so...

Actually, only the 01 series had Iso E Super. Molecule 01 was 100% Iso E and Escentric 01 added to the note to create an entire fragrance. The same thing was repeated with the 02 series, only this time it was with Ambroxan as the molecule in question. The same will go for the new 03, now focusing on the aforementioned vetiver molecule.
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post #4 of 24
10/20/10 at 1:11am
Thread Starter 
I thing it can be the best release of year....
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post #5 of 24
10/20/10 at 5:08am
I look forward to giving it a try. I understand many companies have started using a synthetic vetiver because it so effective in place of vetiver - even small perfuers who use mostly natural ingredients are using a new synthetic for vetiver, I've read about. There is a synthetic vetiver called Vetiveryl Bourbon and a semi natural vetiver ingredient called Vetiveryle Acetate.

Does anyone here know what this stuff is? Could someone tell us more about this ingredient and how natural or unnaturally good it might be?
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post #6 of 24
10/20/10 at 8:35am
Selling aroma chemicals as soliflores is pretty ballsy, kudos to them.
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post #7 of 24
10/20/10 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le critique de parfum View Post

Selling aroma chemicals as soliflores is pretty ballsy, kudos to them.

I agree. Incredible profit margin. Selling 100 ml of Iso E Super diluted in alcohol for $135 takes some genius.
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post #8 of 24
10/20/10 at 9:20am
So many nonsenses in the niche market...
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post #9 of 24
10/20/10 at 9:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post

I look forward to giving it a try. I understand many companies have started using a synthetic vetiver because it so effective in place of vetiver - even small perfuers who use mostly natural ingredients are using a new synthetic for vetiver, I've read about. There is a synthetic vetiver called Vetiveryl Bourbon and a semi natural vetiver ingredient called Vetiveryle Acetate.

Does anyone here know what this stuff is? Could someone tell us more about this ingredient and how natural or unnaturally good it might be?

vetiveryl bourbon? i think you must be confusing two names. vetiver bourbon is a type of vetiver oil. vetiveryl is the first name of an ester (a functional group). vetiveryl acetate (but also know as acetivenol and other names) is not a new ingredient, it is being used and popular for a long time.

others i can think of are methyl cedryl ketone and vetiverol. they cover certain aspects of woods with a vetiver aspect. for instance, the vetiver acetates are used when looking for a light woody vetiver note.

some of the main constituent of vetiver oil are: vetiverol, khusimol, vetiveen, alfa vetivon, beta vetivon, vetiveryl acetaat, vetyveryl vetiveraat. note that different vetiver oils are made all over the globe and that they do not smell the same.
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post #10 of 24
10/20/10 at 10:41am
btw, if you want to find out more about these molecules, i suggest you take a look at the vetiver index @ the good scents company. this great website has many aroma- and flavor materials listed, scroll down to the headings suppliers and organoleptics for their descriptions.

they have several indexes, but the odor index is probably the most interesting way to browse if you have no or very little knowledge of these molecules and want to explore this field a bit.
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post #11 of 24
10/20/10 at 10:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZsmells View Post

I agree. Incredible profit margin. Selling 100 ml of Iso E Super diluted in alcohol for $135 takes some genius.

i do not know the actual prices, but my guesstimate is that you can buy about 3 kilo of the raw material for that price. (my supplier sells 10ml bottles for 2 euro, 50ml for 50 euro, 250 gram for 18 euro. the relative price in large amounts gets always exponentially lower)

but i have to say, even if it is a material with interesting features, it would bore me as a perfume.
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post #12 of 24
10/20/10 at 11:21am
What about Mark Rothko? Most people would say, what the hell is this...I could produce these paintings. Yes, maybe so, but he had the original idea. Art is also about the idea. The idea can be simple, but the originator thought of it first. Art is what we announce as art. Escentric Molecules is a brilliant concept IMO.
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post #13 of 24
10/20/10 at 11:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post

What about Mark Rothko? Most people would say, what the hell is this...I could produce these paintings. Yes, maybe so, but he had the original idea. Art is also about the idea. The idea can be simple, but the originator thought of it first. Art is what we announce as art. Escentric Molecules is a brilliant concept IMO.

it is not an original idea. it was done before.
to recreate, say, the toilet pot by duchamp is not art.
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post #14 of 24
10/20/10 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post

The idea can be simple, but the originator thought of it first. Art is what we announce as art. Escentric Molecules is a brilliant concept IMO.

As the French say, exactement!
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post #15 of 24
10/20/10 at 11:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gido View Post

it is not an original idea. It was done before.
To recreate, say, the toilet pot by duchamp is not art.

ok. I won't debate Rothko's merits here, but will debate Escentric Molecules . Looking forward to sampling this soon.
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post #16 of 24
10/20/10 at 11:48am
I am personally looking forward to trying this one.
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post #17 of 24
10/20/10 at 7:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le critique de parfum View Post

So many nonsenses in the niche market...

What about the Escentrics? That combine other ingredients as well. Also, the market declares value, and if there are consumers willing to buy pure IES for 135$, then more power to EM.
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post #18 of 24
10/20/10 at 8:07pm
Strange question: So if I were to bottle up Iso E Super with the same dilution as EM, and sold it under a different name, but with the exact same ingredient(s), could I be sued for copyright infringement? I could bottle it as a cheaper alternative, like a knockoff or a "generic" version without all the hype. I'll be rich I tell ya!

-Slim
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post #19 of 24
10/20/10 at 10:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post

ok. I won't debate Rothko's merits here, but will debate Escentric Molecules . Looking forward to sampling this soon.

that's what i meant. their idea is not truly original, it was done before.
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post #20 of 24
10/20/10 at 10:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post

What about the Escentrics? That combine other ingredients as well. Also, the market declares value, and if there are consumers willing to buy pure IES for 135$, then more power to EM.

So then, by that logic, I don't expect to hear you complaining about celebrity scents, more fresh/aquatics, etc? More power to those companies.

While I'm not going to say it is outright wrong to sell a single aroma chemical, I think that taking such a huge profit margin for something that required no real effort or creativity whatsoever is, if nothing else, a bit duplicitous.
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post #21 of 24
10/20/10 at 11:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

While I'm not going to say it is outright wrong to sell a single aroma chemical, I think that taking such a huge profit margin for something that required no real effort or creativity whatsoever is, if nothing else, a bit duplicitous.

well, at the end of the day, if it smells really great, why not?

but you are right about the price, and i don't think iso e super is that great.
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post #22 of 24
10/21/10 at 6:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

So then, by that logic, I don't expect to hear you complaining about celebrity scents, more fresh/aquatics, etc? More power to those companies.

While I'm not going to say it is outright wrong to sell a single aroma chemical, I think that taking such a huge profit margin for something that required no real effort or creativity whatsoever is, if nothing else, a bit duplicitous.

Hrmmm. Got me there. While I don't fault them for trying to make money, and if that's what people want then good for them. I'm just tired of the same ol' rodeo, you know? At least selling a single aroma chemical is unique.
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post #23 of 24
10/24/11 at 4:00am
Hi Everybody. I disagree that molecule 03 based on Vetiveryl acetate (VA). There are two reasons: 1) I tried M03 and Vetiveryl acetate ( I have a bit of pure one. I used different solution (0.5%, 1%, 10%) in alcohol. The smell of M03 is different from solution of VA in alcohol. M03 is more soft woody. VA solution has a bit sour smell. 2) The box of original M03 parfum has information about ingredients: alcohol, parfum, water... But on box of M02: alcohol, ambroxan, water. On box of M01: alcohol, Iso E super, water.
Is there a secret?))) I think M03 is not solution of VA in alcohol only... What do you think? Did somebody smell both of them(M03 and VA)? I think it can be VA with Ambroxan.
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post #24 of 24
10/24/11 at 4:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le critique de parfum View Post

So many nonsenses in the niche market...

True
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