NEW Guerlain Arsene Lupin duo: Le Dandy and Le Voyou

I keep asking the Guerlain boutique about these and they keep saying they don't know when they will arrive. I'm hoping before Christmas.

I only get to Guerlain once a week and Sous le Vent was occupying my attention for a couple of visits but I tried a spray of Le Dandy again last night and my impression is the same as a few weeks back - a 'bright leather', and a bright citrus hovering over it was more apparent this time. When I say bright I guess I mean that it did not appear to me to be tempered with iris, as sometimes happens, nor 'suede-y' - I didn't pick up any peach or osmanthus like textures. I'm not enough of a leather fan to go into detail beyond that.

I like it, need to try a few more times - it's a bit difficult just grabbing a spray at the end of the day.

Re: Voyou, I can only copy over my take on it from a couple of weeks ago - sorry if it seems a bit much 'quoting oneself' but for the sake of keeping initial impressions in one place;

Voyou - Take 2 / Oct. 24: I tried a heavier dose at the Guerlain counter today and for the first hour+ the aromatic quality was much more apparent. It took me half an hour then I realised that it was recalling the Amouage Al Andalus Attar, whcih I subsequently confirmed when I got home. (Al Andalus has been compared with Platinum Egoiste by some, BTW, altho Al Andalus and Voyou do not have the slightly metallic synth aspect I find in PE). Four hours later and it is a very pleasant but also very light skin scent, natural but subtle, a bit woodsy. Starts well but then doesn't really go anywhere, frankly. Not really my style but I can see this being very popular with fans of the more 'aromatic fougere' side of things. Probably the more commercial of the two mainstream wise.

They have not been jumping of the shelves here so far, apparently.

The Guerlain Boutique in Las Vegas has it- or at least samples they can send out. I should get a sample tomorrow.

A friend of mine has pre-ordered these, but will not get them until mid-November. I can't wait!

The Guerlain boutique at Neimans San Francisco says a firm mid-November, which should be pretty shortly... This is the Guerlain regional rep's word on it.

I personally prefer Le Dandy — I've had enough modern "violet leaf" for a while, so Le Voyou left me kind of cold...


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Wow, and somehow we had them in torontos boutique at least two weeks ago.

Personally i was not impressed, a little too boring. One of them was woody and the other floral i believe. I didn't pay much attention to them to be honest.

Hey Primrose,

They have it now at the Guerlain Boutique at the Palazzo. I bought Dandy last night when I got in to Vegas. I like it. Le Voyou its just lavender on me.

Cheers!

It's actually Dandy that has violet, not Voyou. I think you have to be a Guerlain loyalist to really enjoy them. Here are my reviews so far:

http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.co...pin-dandy.html
http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.co...pin-voyou.html

These are fabulous, well researched and thought out reviews Mr. G. Thank you for sharing!

Excellent Mr. G. Those were absolutely wonderful reviews.

Just received my samples today. I'll have to spend much more time with them, but on first impression, I'm surprised how much Le Dandy has in common with Chamade pour Homme. It has much more in common with CpH than does Coriolan IMO.

Le Voyou isn't as "common" as I was led to believe by a lot of the reviews I had read so far. It has a huge camphor element that I wasn't expecting. I think it is much richer and more complex than what I have read about it thus far. $500 for the pair is a lot of money, but I can't imagine myself not taking the plunge. So many amazing releases so far this year, I'm way over budget!

Great reviews! And I think you've sold me on Voyou, too! Love the pictures you used to tell the story of each fragrance as well!

I eagerly await my samples!

Thanks for those kind words, Redneck! I'm glad you like the "artwork". Everyone who has sniffed the Arsene Lupin prefers Dandy, I guess since it's clearly the "artful" and "clever" one. But as you might guess from my writing, I like Voyou the most - I has that great "smell-good" quality and lovely citrus-amber drydown that Jean-Paul Guerlain is so known for. The way the bitter orange top melts into the sandalwood is very addictive to my nose!

I have tried them briefly yesterday, since my samples finally arrived. My impression was that, after the first momenst of violet leaf, Arsene Lupin Dandy didn`t remind me of neither Coriolan nor Chamade Pour Homme. For me, it has something of that warm, soft chypre base, where Sous Le Vent and Philtre d`Amour converge in different interpretations. Dandy seemed like a cleaner version, without the mossy touch in Philtre d`Amour and the carnation-flower aroma in Sous Le Vent.
The Voyou one remind me of a younger brother of idylle, with aromatic notes instead of flowers. I do need to try it better. While i didn`t found it brilliant, it`s not as bad as i`ve read on some reviews (or at least doesn`t seem to be bad).

For the ones that didn`t like the arsene lupin bottles, it seems that guerlain will change chamade, derby and l'ame d`un hero bottles for the same bottle of the arsene lupin ones.

Derby in the new rectangular bottle sounds great to me. I would much prefer to see the rectangular bottle on my shelve rather than the bee bottle. I will be on the look for the new packaging, thanks for the heads up.

So I guess if Guerlain is repackaging Derby into new bottles then the rumor about it being pulled is incorrect as well? How do you come by your info rickbr? I think the bee bottles with the bulb atomizers are wonderful, but don't always seem appropriate for the masculine scents... I can imagine most guys would prefer to use a pump spray.

I tried both of the Arsene Lupin scents again. I agree that into the second half of the life of Dandy it does move into a different direction, yet the similarities with Chamade pour Homme are fairly striking. People often say Chamade pour Homme is basically a copy of Coriolan and I really disagree with that; Dandy is a bit closer to CpH than Coriolan is, but it's definitely it's own scent, so please don't misunderstand that I think Dandy is a copy of Chamade pour Homme.

I'm wearing Voyou today and it is a wonderful scent. The aromatic opening on top of a dryish sandalwood base is absolutely stunning. I'm surprised people peg this one as "ordinary." It's very elegant and wonderful. I know I'll be purchasing them both very soon!

I saw the rumors about Spiritueuse Double Vanille and Vega being discontinued at another thread. So i asked Steven, that works at Place Vendome, a top fancy store which carries all Guerlain's line, and he told me that he didn't know any info about SDV and Vega, but that he knows that Derby, Chamade and L'Ame D'Un Heros would be discontinued in the classical bee's bottle and relaunched in the new one used in the Dandy's duo.

Well, i did found weird that they would keep at the same line fragrances with different bottles, specially when they keep a pattern in the other lines.

Well, i think they are taking risks and trying to attract a younger audience. But, considering the prices of this line, i don't think that it's young people that buy them, so they may have gone in a wrong direction.
One thing that i never liked about the exclusive lines was the necessity of attaching the spray every single time you had to wear the fragrance if you plan to keep it in the original box. It's not pratical and it generetad some losses in the process.

I agree with you about the opening. I have only worn Le Dandy once since I got it. I plan on it tomorrow.

Yes that is correct, Godzilla.

I'll add my kudos to an excellent reviews Mr. G.

Now those bottles, I really am wondering how long that wood will hold together.

Cheers!

OK! My bottle of Voyou arrived today. It's just wonderful. Voyou is much different than what I was originally expecting from reading several of the reviews on blogs and such. I was expecting a very generic scent. However, it's a gorgeous sandalwood/benzoin underneath some beautiful aromatics, and a gentle rose heart. It's not very loud, but not nearly as quiet as I had been told. Voyou is an extremely elegant EDP, and after having my sample for just one day I purchased a full bottle immediately. Next month, I'll be purchasing Dandy, but Voyou was my first choice, against the grain of popular opinion.

Yes, Le Voyou is an excellent scent. FBW for me as well. Striking topnotes that linger as they transition to equally striking aromatic notes - which also linger and breathe life into the scent for hours. I was sneaking sniffs of my wrist all day long. Sexy warmth and gourmand notes, but not too much - just enough -the perfect level. It eases into a really magnificent drydown - woody, spicy, creamy. Excellent longevity. Feels modern yet very elegant - very Guerlain. It really feels like there's something new here, and yet it has a classic feel, too. Not a simple scent. There is a spiciness that is very exciting, but restrained. It's like there is a touch - a hint - of Santos de Cartier. But not enough to be gentlemanly. Only a hint of it.

I thought that the match between the names/themes of the fragrances and the scents themselves was good. "Dandy" is the perfect name for that one. Dandy's violet is restrained at just the right level to evoke the image of a man who wears an elegant perfume naturally and with ease. That's a very interesting and hard thing to say with a fragrance, and Dandy does it well. Le Voyou, on the other hand, is rascally in an elegant way. I think it's the mixture of modern touches (many resemblances to recent Chanel masculines) with shades of recent Guerlain feminines, including Boise Torride and Tonka Imperiale. I like Le Voyou better than Bois d'Armenie, actually. There are also very interesting parallels to my current house fave, Homme EDP Intense. It made me feel that there has been some mutual influence between the perfumers, and in a very good way.

It's a nice pairing. Dandy uses overt, classy feminine touches to create elegance, whereas "Rascal" uses more subtle ones to create sexiness. Dandy has a flower in the lapel - Voyou has a forgotten piece of lingerie.

The "rascal" isn't just FBW - it's theft-worthy!

French is not my native language, but I thought voyou meant something closer to "thug" or "hooligan" than "scoundrel."

I've seen everything - rogue, rascal, one without scruples, hoodlum, scoundrel and a few others. But my favorite use has to be this one. The picture looks like a near perfect match for those unflattering Obama pix that pop up in those "scare-up-some-money" ads on the Drudge Report.

Gosh I can't wait to smell these - I'll be in NY in a couple weeks and my plan is to buy (unsniffed) the new Shalimar Ode de la Vanille, but I'm wondering if perhaps I should try and consider one of these two first?

Apart for the trip to NYC (*jealous*), I'm in exactly the same boat, Mike. I was planning on getting the interesting Shalimar flanker as my "must own a non-light Shalimar" bottle, and then these two happened. Well, I thought Voyou was THE ONE, but I wore Dandy yesterday. They're a matched pair - many shared aspects from parts of the topnotes to the drydown - and now I'm uncertain. Dandy is quite excellent, too.

Oh, woe is me. Guerlain is cranking out decent stuff.

Guerlain is definitely a pricey habit, but worth it. One of my all time favorite houses.

I haven't tried these scents but agree with your statements here. I used to shop at a clothing store called Harolds...Harold Powell in some areas. I even worked there while in law school and some on holidays. Their stores were mostly in the south...started in Oklahoma and into Texas and other areas. The idea was a Polo type shop where college kids and working men could get the "Bespoke" look and the Ralph Lauren type look in a customer friendly store. Everyone I knew shopped there. Almost all my work slacks are from there. Then about 5-6 years ago they tried to get "trendy" and went with more silk blends, all black tshirts, etc, etc. Customers left. When they tried to recover and bring back the old style, they had to make up for losses by using inferior threads and they never recovered. I still loved the store but they went bankrupt 2 years back and shut down all the stores. Heck there is even a Facebook group for those of us that worked there. Longer story, but same points as you got across. People like what they are used to because it works.

I'm not sure they are trying for trendy with the new bottles... there really is nothing trendy about them. I like the bee bottles, I just dislike the bulb atomizers on them. I prefer a pump. I have a feeling that many men dislike the bulb atomizers for masculine fragrances. So, I would bet they have been getting complaints that the bottles aren't masculine enough for the men's fragrances. All they would have had to do would be to put pump atomizers in the bee bottles (like with Mouchoir de Monsieur). I don't dislike the wood bottles as much as everyone else though. They do have a certain charm. A great new bottle is the new Fougere Royale bottle!!!

I'll definitely give them a try

Doesn't He Wood and others scents use this wood around the bottle look?I like the look in the ads but haven't held a bottle and, as we discussed, this does mess with a tradition many adore.

I agree. A bottle similar to Eau de Cologne Imperiale would be a good compromise. I decant Derby from my bee bottle. It's impossible to spray with one hand and I've read too much about the evaporation issues. .

Re evaporation issues, the Guerlain Atomizers are actually pretty good... I have several that I use and have never had a problem with evaporation personally. You just need to make sure that the atomizer is firmly lodged in the bottle. I just don't like using them, I prefer a pump.

Arsene Lupin Dandy seems to me like a modern leather with a classical inspiration. Altough it has some notes in common with Chamade Pour Homme, Dandy seems very far of it at top,heart or basenotes. Chamade Pour Homme is more focused on a green, pollen-ish, citrus flower aroma over a leather and woods base. Dandy seems more like a mossy, green, leather fragrance of the past, but without the intensity of fragrances that used to contain this notes.
I`m surprised that the piramid doesn`t list any galbanum in Dandy, because if there isn`t galbanum, there`s something very, very close of the aroma of galbanum. Is that green, inky, bitter aroma of galbanum which was very popular at 80's and which was used in some chypres to increase the bitter aroma. The galbanum accord is perceptible at first, and the leather at the base seems to get in focus at the first moments of the evolution at skin. The basenotes for me seems to go in focus with the topnotes, providing a green, inky, mossy, leathery aroma. And then, the green aspects fade, the leather calms, and the mossy touch gets spicy, slightly creamy, and minty. I wonder which note gives this minty effect. It`s definitely there after three hours, something spicy with a minty aura.
Le Dandy seemed made for Guerlain fans of the drier scents of the company. At the same time, the aroma is not so intense that would shock the ones not used with Guerlain frags. Doesn`t seem difficult to wear, it`s a classy, leathery, green, spicy skin scent for me.

500$ the pair!!! what the hell!!! Too expensive for me. They must outperform many fragances (quality-wise) to justify that price. What i've read so far doesn't make them that "special".

Perhaps you should smell them before you make that assessment.

They're very enjoyable. I spilled my vial of Le Voyou on the carpet near my bed, and every time I catch a whiff of the spot, I'm totally captivated - debating whether it's the best thing I've smelled all year. Definitely give them a chance.

Where are these available?

The Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas at the Palazzo has them... they do phone orders and will send samples too.

I received small decants of both Le Dandy and Voyou yesterday. Ah, I am in love with Le Dandy! I liked Voyou very much too, but Le Dandy pressed all the right buttons. I have read the comparisons with Coriolan, but Coriolan is much more transparent. It also reminds me of Sous le Vent in the drydown. The violet leaf is perfect. I was afraid it was going to be super strong like the original Farenheit.

Voyou smells to me like peach nectar. It is not sweet, but somehow it reminded me of nectar. I probably would wear Voyou more, because it is more modern, and save Le Dandy for special occassions. Oh, it does not matter, every day is a special occassion!!

Le Dandy and Voyou seems to represent for me different types of beauty While Le Dandy seems more like a editorial beauty, an attempt of doing a classical leathery-green chypre without a heavy signature, Voyou seems more like commercial beauty, that relies on notes more easier to please. Altough Voyou has it's trick, which are revealed after the fragrances starts to develop on skin. The first moments seem pleasant, altough a little bit generic, of a green-aromatic opening that develops to something spicy. After that, the musk start to get in focus of the composition, and then, you notice that from the musk emerges a sexy and romantic accord of rose benjoin and sandalwood. They seem to be part of the musk, not to develop in paralel with the musk. You notice velvet roses with a not sickening vanilla aura of benjoim and slightly creamy and woody note of sandalwood playing a minor accord in the overall effect. Voyou is that warm fragrance that you may not give so much importance at first, as i didn't do, but which seems to get better and better throughout the day. Is a nice company, a little too young and not so concious of his potential. Seems more like boy which is not anymore a teenager, but it's not a fully grown man too.

I gave Voyou a full wear today. It is so lovely!! I did not appreciate it at first try a few days ago, but wearing it all day made me appreciate the lovely heart and base notes. I wore Le Dandy yesterday and I loved it, but Voyou is so much easier to wear, a little more casual. Arghh, I like them both, but if I have to chose one bottle, or at least which one to buy first, it wuold be Voyou

I have Voyou, and am going to bite the bullet and get Dandy for a Christmas present to myself.

I smelled both of these at Bergdorf last week and liked Voyou instantly. Dandy smelled very boring to my nose.

Need to smell these again.

The dry spicy-aromatic green note that you smell at the start of Dandy is the cardamom, not galbanum. Try and smell an opened cardamom capsule and you will get it!

Guerlain's PR person confirmed to me today that the three "Parisiens" (Derby, L'Âme d'un Héros and Chamade pour Homme) will be sold in the wooden framed Arsène Lupin bottle from January 2011 - 100 ml atomizer at 165 Euros, so time to stock up on the soon gone Parisien bees!

I`m sure it`s not cardamom, but galbanum. Galbanum has an specific bitter, mossy green note that it`s quite recognizable. And it`s the first impression that i get in Arsene Lupin. It reminded me of the galbanum use that some 80`s male fragrances had. Specially Santos Eau de Sport. The Galbanum aroma in Dandy reminded me of for some seconds of Santos Eau de Sport.

I told previously that the others would go to the same bottle...

I got samples of D and V on paper. The Dandy soon became a lot like Mitouko. Just sayin'.