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Indolic, dark jasmine!

post #1 of 40
11/9/10 at 12:47am
Thread Starter 
Another thread hopefully triggering again great suggestions...

I have fallen in love with Neil Morris' Gandhara recently. It's just breathtaking... indolic, dirty and clear at the same time
I very much like Sarrasins with its darkness and minor leathery tone on my skin.

Do you have more suggestions for me?
A dominant tuberose note can cause a problem for me. General mood and color of the fragrance preferably dark.
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post #2 of 40
11/9/10 at 1:28am
Serge Lutens A La Nuit.
Luca Turin calls it "death by Jasmine" -
but what a way to go!
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post #3 of 40
11/9/10 at 1:43am
Thread Starter 
A La Nuit? I remember it being too loud for my taste, but I'll revisit it. Maybe it is too bright for me? Good call, thank you!
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post #4 of 40
11/9/10 at 1:48am
2nd A La Nuit. Unfortunately on me it's "pure sh*t"
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post #5 of 40
11/9/10 at 3:28am
A la Nuit is lovely. There's a brightness to it despite the indoles, so I have a hard time thinking of it as a "dark" jasmine.

I recently fell for Bulgari's Jasmin Noir:fairly indolic jasmine, slightly sweetened over smoky woods. And it's sheer. Lovely stuff.

Also try Hermes' 24, Faubourg. Actually a jasmine/orange flower combo, but very barnyard-y. It's a beautiful modern pastiche of classic French perfumery, my go-to when I want indoles.
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post #6 of 40
11/9/10 at 5:31am
Try oirofrom Mona di Orio
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post #7 of 40
11/9/10 at 6:00am
Thread Starter 
Thanks so far!
The Oiro by Mona di Orio really peeked my interest. Since it does not seem to be available in Austria it was time to order a few samples from Les Senteurs...
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post #8 of 40
11/9/10 at 9:12am
The darkest, most indolic jasmine l've tried is Bruno Acampora Jasmin, it's very dirty & animalic! Available from Luckyscent.

A couple worth trying from department stores; Samsara by Guerlain; deep jasmine & sandalwood, & Alien by Thierry Mugler, super-loud jasmine with a woody-ambery base. Gorgeous stuff!
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post #9 of 40
11/9/10 at 9:26am
Larimar- I peeked at your wardrobe, you have some stunning leathers and incense fragrances. I'm curious what your **most** beloved scents are?

Oiro is a good suggestion, it is a jasmine/sweetpea type fragrance. Since you've had exposure to Caron, have you tried Pois de Senteur? this is another sweetpea scent, and what you thought of it will be directionally similar to what you'll think of Oiro.

I"m curious to see where your exploration takes you. these are some great fragrance suggestions. (Mona has three new scents out, onen is a leather, which I liked)
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post #10 of 40
11/9/10 at 12:37pm
Obsession for women is a dark jasmine & amber scent
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post #11 of 40
11/9/10 at 1:24pm
In terms of purely heavily-indolic scents, SL's A La Nuit, Saffron James Nani, and ELDO's Charogne are top-of-the-list in sheer indole power. But, I don't find any of them appealingly dark in the vein of Gandhara and Sarrasins.

Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie is something I have yet to give a full wearing to, but smelled extremely promising the last time I smelled it. Kind of a dark, chypre jasmine in the same way SL's Rose de Nuit treats rose.

For leather and jasmine, D.S. & Durga's $ is jasmine plus leather in a very interesting way, completely unlike anything else I know. Think a rather aggressive, fruity jasmine together with an extremely realistic new-leather smell, gradually fading to an old-fashioned white musk. It lists tuberose in its notes, but I know and love tuberose, and can't find one whiff of it here - this is about jasmine.

Perfume By Nature's Goddess is a great dark rose-jasmine combo resting on a waxy base akin to MFK's Absolue Pour Le Soir. This smells beautiful and dark, but suffers from the demure sillage and longevity of a natural.

Though I've yet to try it ( *sigh* - why is it so hard to track this stuff down? ), MPG's La Reine Margot sounds extremely promising.
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post #12 of 40
11/10/10 at 2:54am
Thread Starter 
My samples from Les Senteurs include Mona di Orio Oiro, Nuit Noire and yes Cuir.

I did not forget about La Reine Margot either. Will you keep us posted please on the Creed, Sugandaraja?

Hi Baykat! I don't recall Pois de Senteur being among my Caron samples from TPC since I did not feel particularly attracted to the notes. My SPECIAL SPECIAL frags are Lanvin Scandal (I don't have my vintage stuff listed in my wardrobe). I also like Arpege a lot and I can see a common element in the base with Scandal, but much more sensual. Scandal is THE leather for me. Period. Rumeur and My Sin are fantastic, too. Amouage Lyric Woman is a true beauty that does not need an explanation. It sings. It makes me feel so damn good. I once wore it on a really warm summer night and BBQ in the middle of the wood, live music, a fire late at night. That's my picture for Lyric. It also works very well in cooler weather for me. Chergui was my entry into this fantastic world and I still dearly love it. I think it blends deliciously with my skin (my only frequent compliment-getter). It's very pipe-tobacco-y on me with its rosy-fruity touch and just enough sweetness to make it beguiling. I went totally crazy about Tabac Blond extrait in September/October and finished my half ounce... my Xmas treat for myself will be on the way soon. Still many more...
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post #13 of 40
11/10/10 at 3:02am
How about ELd'O Jasmin et Cigarette? That one struck me as somewhat indolic, the tobacco is darker and the juxtaposition is great. I tend to find jasmine-centered fragrances far too sweet, bright and floral for me, but I like that one.
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post #14 of 40
11/10/10 at 4:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post

How about ELd'O Jasmin et Cigarette?

Ha ha, that was my fifth sample that I ordered from Les Senteurs. Thanks for another interesting call
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post #15 of 40
11/10/10 at 11:53am
Jasmin et Cigarette by ELdO for sure!
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post #16 of 40
11/25/10 at 4:24am
Thread Starter 
Okay, I went through the thread again...
Unfortunately, Bruno Acampora's Jasmin is not available as a sample on luckyscent.. any other sources? This is by far too expensive to buy 5ml unsniffed (as offered on their site).
Mona di Oiro's Oiro was a scrubber on me... the veeeery sweet combo with immortelle was disgusting. I tried her Cuir as well... it starts out nicely (the leather note is quite right), but it lacks a counterpart and balance as it gets extremely irritating after a short while. Not bearable either, I'm sorry. Still have two more samples to try.
Jasmin et Cigarette... quite nice, but not earthshaking. I dislike modern clean-smelling fragrances. Despite the jasmine this manages to smell clean or rather cleaned up. It's okay, but not what I'm looking for nor anything really special to my nose.
That's it so far
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post #17 of 40
11/25/10 at 5:16am
I think you may like Acaciosa by Caron and Joy by Patou . Try extract samples. Both are similar to me and dirty jasmine . I believe Acaciosa has a slight pineapple note - as a side note , nothing too distracting though.

Bruno Acampora's Jasmin is very strong raw jasmine indeed. Pity I'm not home in the US - I'm sure I have an official sample of the B Acampora's Jasmin in one of my sample boxes which I could have sent you
You could always ask Andrea at Luckyscent's customer service whether they do actually have any samples. Mine came from Luckyscent. If not- try The Perfumed Court or The Posh Peasant .
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post #18 of 40
11/25/10 at 6:46am
Thread Starter 
THANKS, Mimi Gardenia! Joy (extrait) is beautiful, but leaves me emotionally cold. It's too pretty, too nice. I have received feedback from people in the past that whatever I wear I make it smell 'beautiful'. So, I sometimes do not detect "dirty" notes in perfumes where others mention them.
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post #19 of 40
11/25/10 at 7:33am
Ooh yes Acasiosa is gorgeous & very long lasting!
l have found that when a fragrance on Luckyscent doesn't have samples listed, you can still order it as one of your freebies if you're ordering a FB of something else. They did have samples of the BA Jasmin when l got mine, sorry! lt's definitely worth trying l think.
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post #20 of 40
11/29/10 at 6:59am
Guerlain Samsara
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post #21 of 40
11/29/10 at 7:51am
Jasmin Noir by Bvlgari EDP version
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post #22 of 40
11/29/10 at 3:24pm
Gucci Eau de Parfum, lots of orange blossom and jasmine indoles. Lovely stuff.
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post #23 of 40
11/29/10 at 10:18pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks all for even more suggestions!
It's more than 2 weeks ago since I last mentioned that Gandhara really is a masterpiece. If this is your genre and you haven't tried it, honestly, don't wait any longer
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post #24 of 40
11/30/10 at 1:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Jasmin et Cigarette... quite nice, but not earthshaking. I dislike modern clean-smelling fragrances. Despite the jasmine this manages to smell clean or rather cleaned up. It's okay, but not what I'm looking for nor anything really special to my nose.
That's it so far

Too bad. I really like the idea, it seems like such a brilliant juxtaposition, and I liked the execution well enough too - lighter on the tobacco than I hoped for, but still nice, and they so often play out differently when sprayed than dabbed from a tiny sample vial. Still, it didn't end up on my wishlist either...

That Gucci, though, sounds intriguing.
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post #25 of 40
11/30/10 at 1:57am
Night scented jasmin oby Floris,
Lust by LUSH
Jasmin de Nuit by the Different Company
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post #26 of 40
11/30/10 at 3:26am
Three of my all-time favourites mentioned here: Gucci EDP, Alien and Samsara. Jasmine monsters, gorgeous!
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post #27 of 40
12/9/10 at 8:22am
Lust by Lush/Gorilla perfumes
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post #28 of 40
1/15/12 at 12:05am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

I think you may like Acaciosa by Caron and Joy by Patou . Try extract samples. Both are similar to me and dirty jasmine . I believe Acaciosa has a slight pineapple note - as a side note , nothing too distracting though.

Now, a good year later, I think Mims was very very right with Acaciosa. I have gone through a sample, got a vintage mini of the extrait (smells basically the same than today's) and plan to buy a big bottle when I am in Paris in April. When I first tried Acaciosa in summer, I felt it was too much for me, but now in winter it is heavenly and addictive. The smoky facet on my skin and discreet sillage make it absolutely stunning.
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post #29 of 40
1/15/12 at 10:13am
I've never smelled Acaciosa. I wonder if the jasmine restriction will spell death for it too. Reportedly, Joy has been turned into a (very good) rose soliflore.

cacio
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post #30 of 40
1/15/12 at 12:45pm
l very much enjoyed Acaciosa when l was sent a sample courtesy of our dear Suga. l've been planning to get a decant ever since, but it looks like l may have to grab a bottle before this beauty is gone forever!
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post #31 of 40
1/15/12 at 1:05pm
Acaciosa is an excellent choice! I'm wearing it today because of this thread.

I want to add that I recently discovered Nuda by Nasomatto thanks to a friend who has sent me a couple of samples. It is a gorgeous indolic jasmine. I highly recommend getting a sample. I believe my friend obtained her samples from Lucky Scent (not affiliated).
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post #32 of 40
1/16/12 at 12:30am
Thread Starter 
Thanks therese, I will have to sample Nuda again... fortunately, my local store has it (so, at no cost for me). I remember it was too pretty and bright for me. What makes Acaciosa such a comfortable wear for me as a guy is that it really does not project too much.
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post #33 of 40
1/16/12 at 12:47am
Nuda Nasomatto...it's pure jasmine soliflore...a bit animalic...one of best jasmine scents out there
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post #34 of 40
1/16/12 at 1:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Thanks therese, I will have to sample Nuda again... f

If you're sampling Nuda give Narcotic Venus a shot as well.

The scents in Mona di Orio's old (signature) line usually need some getting used to. They only bloom on skin, paper or clothes don't do justice to them. With most of them you need to wait for about an hour until they show their real beauty.

Have you tried Goutal Songes yet? The jasmine in there is also quite indolic and it's paired with a strong vanilla base.
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post #35 of 40
1/16/12 at 5:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Thanks therese, I will have to sample Nuda again... fortunately, my local store has it (so, at no cost for me). I remember it was too pretty and bright for me. What makes Acaciosa such a comfortable wear for me as a guy is that it really does not project too much.

Nuda is excellent... definitely rather dark, but in a glassy, cold aldehydic way, more Chanel-esque than Caron-ian.

You might like Goutal's Jasmin; it's pleasant enough though a little too simple a jasmine for my tastes, but probably the best Goutal soliflore I've tried. Creed's Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie is worth a try, too; a jasmine-chypre of a dense build, not in keeping with more modern Creed bores like Jasmal or White Flowers.
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post #36 of 40
1/16/12 at 11:24am
Another belated vote for Jasmin Noir - a true unisex, I guess any man could pull this off with ease
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post #37 of 40
1/16/12 at 2:06pm
A fairly indolic jasmin is VCA's Murmure. Also a +1 for TDC's Jasmin de nuit, Lush's Lust. A truly poopy one is Providence Perfume's Indolice. It's on the offense order of ELDO's Secretions Magnifiques.
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post #38 of 40
1/16/12 at 2:20pm
Not a jasmine expert by any means but I like A la Nuit a lot, in fact it's one of the best Lutens in my opinion.

You might also want to try Eclats de Jasmine by Armani Prive, it's not as "loud" as Lutens, the jasmine is slightly cut by citrus notes up top and woody notes in the base.
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post #39 of 40
1/16/12 at 10:43pm
What is the name of that scent made by Bourbon French Perfumes in New Orleans? A pure indolic jasmine?
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post #40 of 40
1/17/12 at 4:52am
Of scents mentioned here, Songes is lush and gorgeous, though very feminine, I think - may just be my concept, of course.
What about Jasmin Full by Montale?
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